Would the case be better mounted fixed / solid no bushing, or a bushing of some sort on the mount. starting a buggy and trying to get the case mounted.

I use the solid mounts from Trail gear and like them.

I used leaf spring bushings.

Leaf Spring Bushings are good to use.

Solid mounting might seem awesome for a bit but something has to give at some point and i'm afraid to say that it'll end up being t-case cracking. At least that is my opinion.

mine is just solid mounted and it seems to work fine! nothing wrong with doing it that way.

mine is just solid mounted and it seems to work fine! nothing wrong with doing it that way.

nothing wrong with it at all. when you have a rubber trans mount and rubber engine mounts and a solid t-case thats creates the drivetrain to flex and the t-case not to flex which will inevitably split or crack the case as it's the weak link.

dirt track guys run solid drivetrains and even quite a few of buggy's run solid drivetrains but all the mounts are solid thus creating no flex or very very small flex which seems to have worked for many years. it's just when you have 1/3 of the drivetrain solid and the rest bush'd something has to give and it's 99% of the time not going to be the bush'd mounts.

wouldn't the intermediate shaft take up that "load"?

Ya, due to the intermediate shaft, it doesn't seem that it would matter. If it was all bolted together, I think it would be different.

wouldn't The Intermediate Shaft Take Up That "load"?

X2

ok don't bother with the mighty kong thing TT. you will still have the same felex issue that you already have. i got one of there beefed up passenger side arms. this is where you got to do some fab work. there piece has a arm that bots to the back of the output on you t-case, this is the piece you want to make longer. on the back of your t-case at the back of the input there are four holes drill these and tap them for a bolt of you choosing. don't go deeper thean the hole it's self. for this could be very bad on your case. you want to use a pice of flat stock, like 3/16th or so i then use a piece of angle iron to go down to the t-case mount on the passenger side. brace this in with some more flat stock. then use some tube i used 1 1/2 dom from the back where you taped the holes. using a ninty degree bend to the drivers side with a spring bushing at the frame. build your mount on the frame side and bolt in.

i did this and have very little flex and the case has not riped out. this kind of mount is flexible enough to keep from splitting the case or ripping out the bolts. a buddy of mine had the mighty kong and he has replaced his case three times. will try to get pics up on my site for you.

either way you'll whind up building new frame mounts sooner or later
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e204/lwbzook/wheel2047Small-3.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e204/lwbzook/wheel2048Small-4.jpg

yes the intermediate shaft would handle that. sorry haven't dealt with sammy drivetrain in awhile.

yes the intermediate shaft would handle that. sorry haven't dealt with sammy drivetrain in awhile.
solid works fine in the standard divorced set up

yeah solid mount set up won't work if you have kicker 3 or any other married set up

either way you'll whind up building new frame mounts sooner or later
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e204/lwbzook/wheel2047Small-3.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e204/lwbzook/wheel2048Small-4.jpg

Looks beef good work :smokin: