Well did not brake in Yukon 6.5 as told, instead we just broke teeth. Going to order another ring & pinion, but not sure what axle to get. Could really use some advise, not sure if axle twisting caused problem with r&p. Or just pushed it to soon. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Sorry not thinking stright 6.5 is t-case, 5.38 is the R & P.

if your talking sami axles .... thats the problem

I take it I'm the only one that have not upgraded!

i don't understand how you got so far building up your gearing combination without considering the limitations of the stock axles. you are running 44" mudders and a small block too, right?

um - wtf are you saying? try using more thought and a few more descriptive words.

Well did not brake in Yukon 6.5 as told, instead we just broke teeth. Going to order another ring & pinion, but not sure what axle to get. Could really use some advise, not sure if axle twisting caused problem with r&p. Or just pushed it to soon. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Sorry not thinking stright 6.5 is t-case, 5.38 is the R & P.

I take it I'm the only one that have not upgraded!

do you proof read what you type, or is this the best you can do?:flipoff2:

5.38 gears for the stock axles suck. I was wunning 31" tires,lockers,and low gearing and I went through 2 sets with less than 200 miles on them.My solution was a Ford 9" and a D44.Don't waste any more $ on those cuz there isn't any warrenty.

Sorry for the bad grammar and no I did not proof read. Anyways let's get back to Sammy's. Yes, we broke Yukon 5.38 R & P, after looking closer found it was not just the teeth but hair line cracks all through it. Found site that said to shim more then manufacture spec., to pro-long life, going to try it with the next set. My husband and I do are own work and sometimes we have to learn from are mistakes. It's a MUD TOY, home made frame, stock engine / tranny / axles, with single barrel ford crab., Vulcon clutch, Crawler 6.5 t-case and 5.38 Yukon R & P. We are running 38.5 Boggers, that's why we beefed up the gears. I know it's not a good ideal to run stock axles, but we figured we would replace them when they go. That is why I asked if you all have any advice. Think axle might have held if it was not for the traction bars making the rear hope in thick stuff. Yes, we need to make them longer. Anyways if anyone has some advice of what type of axle, or a different brand of R & P that is good please let me know.

switch to toyota axles wait your on 38.5 you should go dana 60 heres a common sense rule of thumb most would agree with give or take a few inches

sammy axles- stock to 33
toyota axles-33 to 38
dana 60's 38 to 44
rockwells 44 and up

We are running 38.5 Boggers, that's why we beefed up the gears. I know it's not a good ideal to run stock axles, but we figured we would replace them when they go. That is why I asked if you all have any advice.

get smaller tires or bigger axles. you will consume the earth's reserves of stock axle shafts if you continue this behavior.

get smaller tires or bigger axles. you will consume the earth's reserves of stock axle shafts if you continue this behavior.

:laughing:

go for the D60's you can find some bid axle's for cheep under the older trucks. find a 89-93 dodge W250 gas or diesel these axles have the right side drop in the front. they are wide but will work nice. find one that has high miles and you could get the truck for a grand or so. the axles are worth that on there own. the diesel's will have the D70 in the rear, these are gust a tad bigger than the D60. there are lots of gear sizes to choose from. but the best thing you can do is go bigger.

38's on zuk axles .... time for toys and longs

get smaller tires or bigger axles. you will consume the earth's reserves of stock axle shafts if you continue this behavior.

thats faresome!:mr-t:

Sorry for the bad grammar and no I did not proof read. Anyways let's get back to Sammy's. Yes, we broke Yukon 5.38 R & P, after looking closer found it was not just the teeth but hair line cracks all through it. Found site that said to shim more then manufacture spec., to pro-long life, going to try it with the next set. My husband and I do are own work and sometimes we have to learn from are mistakes. It's a MUD TOY, home made frame, stock engine / tranny / axles, with single barrel ford crab., Vulcon clutch, Crawler 6.5 t-case and 5.38 Yukon R & P. We are running 38.5 Boggers, that's why we beefed up the gears. I know it's not a good ideal to run stock axles, but we figured we would replace them when they go. That is why I asked if you all have any advice. Think axle might have held if it was not for the traction bars making the rear hope in thick stuff. Yes, we need to make them longer. Anyways if anyone has some advice of what type of axle, or a different brand of R & P that is good please let me know.


You need to got to bigger/better axles for those size tires. dana 44's or toys at the least. Then with dana 44's you can run 5.38's without worry or 5.29's in the toys.

If you must stay zuk axled. Go with sidekick/tracker 5.12 gears. Its not as low, but will be much stronger. Then upgrade the motor for more power.

Oh and pics are required!

38.5's are 1 ton tires.

I worry about my toys everytime i go out with 35's. I have broken 4 birfs, 1 rear and tore a knuckle off (no hydro, and i tighten the studs). I just put longfields in, and so far so good with 1 run down. I would never dream of going bigger then some 37's with half ton running gear.

But that is me.

Thats what happened to my Yukon 5.38,hair line cracks.

I beat my 'yota axles with 5.29s and 39.5s as do many zuk and 'yota folks - but most run longfields and never look back. I did up-grade to a poly rear axle, but don't think I really needed to.

one tons are alot of extra weight IMO.

:p

one tons are alot of extra weight IMO.

:p

no doubt. wanna find out how thin the samurai frame is, bolt up some heavy axles. that's a tough trailside fix. jumper cables and a coat hanger ain't gonna fix that kind of boo-boo.

once upon a time i had a '76 wag with dana 44's and 40" swampers. those big tires worked those axles to death. 44's ain't quite enough for that kind of meat. then again, the g13 isn't either. i still don't understand how you did all that gearing work without somebody saying something about your axles.

If your running in the mud (first problem that needs to be fixed) then the Toyota stuff will be perfect. 1 tons on a low powered, light weight rig running less than 40's are just stupid unless your going for the width . A Dana 70 or even a 60 will just end up being a huge plow with the 38.5's and mud.

If you can't spring for the Longfields there are other options out there that are a whole lot cheaper but you will lose the piece of mind you get with the Longs. Here's Bobby's sitewww.longfieldsuperaxles.com and Poly Performance or Marlin can cover the rest.

There are a lot of us Toyota axled rigs that run 40's and bigger and our biggest issue after the Longs in the front, and the Alloy USA or Poly Performance rears is the housings bending and the ring and pinions breaking. In the mud this shouldn't be an issue.

Still trying to figure out how to down load my pics.

Mud is the reason we started upgrading the buggy. First time we got stuck and had to get pulled out, I started buying parts. I DO NOT LIKE GETTING STUCK. My husband is the one that picked out the tires, he was suppose to get 35" tractors, 38.5 bogger where cheaper. Tranny and clutch is my fault. Then we had to do R & P, I could not drive it without. I haven't drove stick for very long. We live in Southwest Florida so no hills or rocks to climb just mud and palmetto. Like to go palmetto hoping, if you know what that is. Trying to keep this fix under a grand, only one income coming in right now. Do not plain on upgrading motor, I like the look we get when people ask what we have under the hood. People can believe it's a sammy, especially jeep owners. Going to look more in to swapping out, would still like to tell people it's a Sammy.

if all you are going to do is run in the mud the D44's will be heavy. the toys will do just fine. long fields are about 7 bones. the guys at lowrange off road have them for the best price i can find. i wheeled with some dudes from montana and they are running there stock toy birfs but they found the rings for them, like the ones for the sami axles, they then welded them on. they said they have not blown one after that.

we have a few folks here in south west utah. the saint george area, that are making the jump up to D60's for there rigs but we run the rocks here. the slick rock in moab has nothing on the stuff we run here. and we go up the high way to ceader city and run on the granite in the trees. so we do need the beef. 37" tires are small here, some are running up in the 40" range. the heft is worth every pound when your out in 110 temps. we are seeing alot of full hydro also, the six gun outers for the toys are nice and i have seen them in action with the full hydro and i would have to say that the 4 bolt stuff would have failed on that rig. i made the step up to the arp studs and they are stayin put. them things are cool there easy to get out. they have a 8mm bolt head for ease of removal. there not the cheepest thing around but they are good insurance. again you can get them at lowrange off road.
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com

these dudes have all kinds of cool stuff from all the makers, most parts for less than you can get them from the builders. like the longs there alomst a bill less that getting them from boby. and the will drop ship them to you.

Ya, I know Lowrange, that's where I bought the ring & pinion gears. Not saying anything bad about them. I also bought crawler gears, clutch and a few other things from them. Just sucks they do not warranty the R & P.

Any one try lowranges (Suzuki Samurai KAM Selectable Diff Lock System with 40% Stronger Axle Shafts) or Calmini HD Rear Axle Shafts? Yes, still thinking of quick fix.

beefing up zuk axles to use 38's, is like putting a band-aid on a gun shot wound.

Ran 38.5 complete stock Suzuki for 6 months before any upgrades, dam good band-aid!

Ran 38.5 complete stock Suzuki for 6 months before any upgrades, dam good band-aid!

Sounds like you got good throttle control and a lot of common sense. I know I lack that trait. :homer:

Seriously, if you're that good on the throttle, a stock set of yotas will last you a lifetime. You should be able to find a set for a bit more than a r/p and could live with stock 4.10s. Should be able to find a used set of highsteer arms for a $100. Shop the parts and install when you've got them all.:smokin:

beefing up zuk axles to use 38's, is like putting a band-aid on a gun shot wound.

...or like putting a diamond ring on a whh... er, tart.

look, i gotta say i'm running stock axles. got lockers, 5.13's, tt shafts, bash guards and trusses, four wheel discs, ott's. but i also run comparatively small 33's, and plan on downgrading to narrower tires when they wear out. know your limits. invest wisely. use the search feature.

to add to 2slo's point, you are financially better off switching to toy's NOW. talking about only having one income and following that with talk of air lockers is working the wrong direction. I am hanging onto my axles because i've got too much damn money into them to spend two grand or more for a toyota equivalent. i also built my rig for exactly the type of wheeling that i do, and that is high desert mobility. if mudding your 'buggy' is your intended use, then build it like that from the ground up.

please, please stop asking about how to beef the samurai axles. it is obviously the wrong direction for your type of wheeling. listen to these guys. many of us here have been there, done that, and flame newbs for making the same stupid mistakes that some of us made early on. the aftermarket exists, and the formula for a successful samurai is well established. please, read up.

If you want something that will interchange wheels, look into International Scout axles. They are D44, open-ended (no berfields), but I hear they are very heavy. SEARCH!

Thanks, look at some dana 44 that we found on craigslist. A little heavier then we want. Going to keep are eyes out for some Toyota, hope we find something soon. Weekends suck with nothing to play with!

the toy's are a good bit lighter than the D44's you can find them cheaper. but there about the same strength. they are easer to keep the front together. but they are heavy. save some money find a set of toy axles, build them the right way and toy won't have worries with them. parts are easy to find and if you trash the front shafts step up th the longs and well your done with that. he will replace the things so its a no brainer there.