: 1.9 aaz into a Tracker
Spokerider 07-08-2008, 03:23 PM Anyone done this conversion into a Tracker??
I've got the 1.9 aaz and my lifted 1991 Tracker. I've got Jeffs ACME kit on order.......
I bought the aaz longblock an am trying to configure it to fit into my Tracker. Not sure if I should keep it in stock form..... serpentine belt to run the waterpump and vw alternator, and v belt to run the vw powersteering from the crankpulley, or......to switch to all V belt pulleys.
I'm getting a big headache [ not to mention spending a bunch of cash buying various V belt pulleys ] trying to configure the engine to all V belt pulleys, and am running into all kinds of clearance issues with the non-aaz-stock v belt pulleys.
So........will this aaz fit into my Tracker engine bay IN STOCK FORM, complete with oem alt and powersteering etc? Anybody done this swap?
Thanks for the input! Jeff from ACME is away on holidays right now, and I never did ask him this question.......
MaddHatter 07-08-2008, 05:19 PM I am in the process of doing the same thing - AAZ 1.9TD into my Track/Kick.
I am running the GM Alt. with 6 row groove pully (crank to Alt) on the Pass. side using the ACME Alt. Mount. The Alt. Belt number that will work is: 325K6 Kelly Springfield, 82.5cm
I was going to run the water pump and power steering in the factory location with a V-Belt ran off the Crank, but the mounting bracket and pump hit my Panard bar (I am running a Trail Tough Trail Slayer Suspension).
So, because of that, I have to fab up a mount for the power steering to sit where your FACTORY VW alt. sits.
I had the factory serpentine belt on the AAZ motor when I got it. I had to order a V-Belt for the Water Pump to accomplish the v-belt run. The V-Belt pulley part number is: 037 121 031A
Here is a pic of the motor going in:
http://www.valmueller.com/sidekick/MotorGoingIn.jpg
Here was the orig. Factory Water Pump pulley that I had to remove and replace with the v-pulley I mentioned above:
http://www.valmueller.com/sidekick/Orig_Pulley.gif
Here you can see my clearance issue, which made me have to remove the factory power steering brackets and pulley:
http://www.valmueller.com/sidekick/PS_Problem.jpg
Also, on you motor on the back of the head - Do you have this water outlet housing, or the black plastic one? If you have the black plastic one, you will need to replace that with the one below. I still need to order one myself, but like you said - Jeff is currently on Vacation.
http://www.valmueller.com/sidekick/wateroutlet.jpg
Spokerider 07-08-2008, 10:35 PM Maddhatter,
Hey, thanks for the reply. It's nice to see someone else tackling this same project. Seems you're further ahead than me with it however........:smokin:
I too have ordered the GM 105 alk bracket from Jeff. I didn't know if it were meant to run a serpentine pulley or V belt. Nice to see that it CAN accomodate a serpentine belt / pulley set-up. I'm still not sure which way to go with my alt installation, oem vw stuff or with the GM / ACME bracketry. Other than having the alt on the pessenger side [ more room now available on the drivers side with the vw alt gone ] and the extra 35 amps, what's the advantage to the GM alt / ACME set-up?
One other thought related to the aaz crankshaft-pulley wobble and loosening problem / crankshaft end damage that is prone to the aaz engines....... part of the cause that promotes this crank-pully wobble seems to stem from the alt pulley. Seems the alt wants to "over-ride" the engine at times, causing a gradual wear of the crank key and thus the wobble problem...... a prevenative fix for this seems to be a ratcheting or clutch pulley that is now available for vw alternators. It does not allow the alt to *over-ride* the crank pulley speed. Also, a different and improved crankshaft vibration damper is now being used, also designed to be a preventative measure against this aaz wobble problem.
Question......is this new alt pulley [ vw part # 028 903 119AA ] available and will it work on the GM alt?? or is it just for vw alternators? My crank key / face is not buggered, and I'd like to employ these items to ensure it stays that way.
I'll not have the "panard bar" clearance issues that you have to deal with. My Tracker has a 3" calmini body lift and a 2.5" susp. lift I fabbed up. I'm *hoping* that the stock aaz / vw powersteering pump will clear without issues in my 1991 Tracker engine bay.........
The water pump pulley that you are using 037 121 031A,
I guess it's designed to sit proud of the water pump mounting face to allow the use of the V belt groove on the crank pulley. Since the crank pulley v belt groove is further out beyond the serpentine groove on the crank pulley, I guess it has to stick out far enough to align with the crank pulley v groove, correct?
Seems like I need to order one of those water housings on the back of the head too....:shaking:
What remote oil filter kit you using? I've been looking on ebay for a billet oil filter kit to purchase. I also have a remote oil cooler I got at the wreckers to connect in with the remote oil filter kit [ when I buy ].
Thanks for the pic! It sure helps to see the pics of items.
Spokerider 07-08-2008, 10:45 PM Maddhatter,
On the valve timing issue....... Did you have to make some sort of pointer on the timing cover back plate and a notch on the crankshaft pulley to allow for timing the valves and injection pump time?
My Tracker is an auto, so I'll be making some sort of pointe, mounting it on the timing cover back-plate, and filing in a fine notch on the crank pulley when I get the timing @ TDC. I plan on mounting a old trans and flywheel from a vw rabbit inorder to ensure that TDC IS INFACT TDC before I file the notch into the crank pulley. With the small diameter of the crank pulley compared to the diameter of the flywheel, there is not much [ as in no ] room for error here. Wondering how you tackled this issue?
MaddHatter 07-09-2008, 06:42 AM Yeah, I had to make a pointer once I lined up the TDC Mark from the Trans / Flywheel.
http://www.valmueller.com/AAZ_Swap/Pointer1.gif
http://www.valmueller.com/AAZ_Swap/Pointer2.gif
http://www.valmueller.com/AAZ_Swap/Pointer3.gif
Here is a picture of the Engine all bolted in:
http://www.valmueller.com/AAZ_Swap/Engine_in_Front.gif
I will post some more info later today.
MaddHatter 07-09-2008, 03:42 PM I am running the GM Alt. so I get a little more Amp. for accessories. Also, the GM alt. is readily availible anywhere I go.
I have heard about the Crankshaft / Woodruff key issues regarding the AAZ. I personally do not want to break the engine down to pull the Crank and have it modified. The engine I have only had 68K miles, so I figure I am good.
I checked with a VW dealership and they located the housing I need. They said there are only 6 in the US right now and they are like $100 bucks. So... I am going to try and find one at a wrecking yard. I suggest you do the same. If you find some, let me know as I need one.
The part number I gave you for the Waterpump pulley lines up the waterpump pulley to the crank v-pulley. works like a champ.
The remote oil filter kit is also from ACME - Jeff stocks those.
blackrider 07-09-2008, 05:25 PM i had the chance to drive jeff's old blue samurai with the 1.6 and it would push u back in the seat,and in 4low at idle , dump the clutch and it would just start crawling......
his brother is good at tweekin' them for more power..
the 1.9 must be sweet
Zukiford87 07-09-2008, 06:06 PM Sorry but what is aaz. I never came across that acronym when I was researching the VW swaps.
MaddHatter 07-09-2008, 06:57 PM Sorry but what is aaz. I never came across that acronym when I was researching the VW swaps.
The AAZ is the engine code for the 1.9TD Engine. This is not to be confused with the new 1.9 TDI.
http://www.ValMueller.com/AAZ_Swap/medium/engines.gif
Spokerider 07-09-2008, 11:23 PM MaddHatter,
Thanks again for the water pump number. I'm going to look into that......
What is the "housing" that you mention, only four in the USA?........you talking about the alternator clutch pulley I had mentioned? If so, it's just the pulley that you replace on the vw alt, not the whole housing that I'm aware of....... Busdepot.com has them......
Seems like the crank problem is THE major downfall with the aaz. The issue seems to be design and inherent characteristics of the diesel / compression / torque with each cyl firing. The "herky-jerky" motion of the crank [ caused from what I just said ] coupled with a heavy V. damper and an alt that *tries* to over-ride the crank at speed causes the eventual failure. Mine isn't buggered either and after all of this work, I want it to remain that way...........
Your aaz sure looks different [ timing cover ] from my 1997.......what year is your engine?
Good job on the timing pointer. Ought to do the job admirably.
Have you chosen a rad for your conversion yet? I've not yet. Will prolly wait to see just what clearance issues develop as it goes together. I do want an aluminum cross flow with both inlet and outlet on the drivers side for ease of installation and clean lines however. Being an auto trans, I have that cooling aspect to consider aswell.
Have you chosen a downpipe / exhaust system?
Since I like to fab what I can, I'll prolly end up fabbing a 2.5 downpipe with a section of flex pipe at the distal end, and using 2.5 tube for the remainder of the exhaust. Maybe a glass pack muffler? Dunno........
What year is your Tracker? Mine's a 91.
Getting back to one of my original questions.......do you think that your aaz would have fit [ clearance at the sidewell on the driver side ] in it's stock form with the vw powersteering and vw alt in place, if you did not have the panard bar insitu? If yes, the option of going with all vw components in oem form is an option for me.
Blackrider.......I read on another site that Jeff's bro is good with tweeking diesels. Too bad I'm 1000 miles away!!
samiguy 07-10-2008, 07:05 AM Being an auto trans, I have that cooling aspect to consider aswell.
{I think I replied once before to you about the auto}
I used Acme's kit to install a TD in a 2wd toyota truck. I just couldnt get rid of a horrible vibration in 'drive'. It also shifted at odd times and I was worried about it downshifting at speed and over revving the engine. I messed with it a bit but wasnt satisfied with how it was performing. I started suspecting my install and suspected my motor mounts were too stiff. I think I could have worked it out but I decided to swap in a 5-speed, which I am in the middle of.
While driving with the automatic it was fine, the power was suprisingly good, better then I expected a diesel/automatic combo to be. I dont know how much street driving you plan to do but make sure your gearing is correct for the 3-speed. I have a 3-speed in my sami and it always ran cool no matter how hard I wheeled it, as long as you have a decent cooler you will be fine.
MaddHatter 07-10-2008, 12:07 PM The Part Number (VW) that I gave you was for the "PULLEY", not the water pump itself. The PULLEY goes on the Water Pump. This pulley is a V-Pulley.
The "Housing" I am talking about = is the "Water Outlet Housing" located on the back of the HEAD. You hook that up to one of your Heater Core Tubes in the firewall. You want the Aluminum one because it typically has "Ports" to screw in sensors. Sensors like the Water Temp and the sensor for your Glow Plug Relay.
blackrider 07-10-2008, 12:43 PM ya ,basically i think he drills out or removes the plug that covers the pressure regulator? adjustment screw[one way[1/8 turn at a time]gives it more performance ,the other gives it more gas milage]he said around 45mpg
Spokerider 07-11-2008, 10:47 AM Maddhatter,
The housing on the back of the cyl head........yes.....thanks for clearing that up. If I find more than one while at the wreckers, I'll let you know.
samiguy,
Thansks again for sharing your automatic conversion swap info. I do recall that you had mention the vibration issue to me once before.
I'm *hoping* that I don't experience the same issues......
So far, I haven't heard any negative feedback with diesels into an auto other than your experience. You mentioned that maybe the engine mounts were too hard. Was the engine in good shape and running well? Ditto for the trans? I know diesels do vibrate more than gas....... If it were a common issue, I'd kinda expect that Jeff would have either have discontinued the conversion kit for the auto, or, suggest a fix for the problem.......he never did mention any such problems to me, but, I never did ask about vibration problems either.
As far a the vacuum controlled shift points, I'm told that I need some part from a ford pick-up that came with a diesel / auto combination. Some part from the throttle linkage which regulates the vacuum between the diesel vacuum pump and the trans. Dunno, I need to check into it further.
This Tracker is also my DD. I don't travel on any freeways with it, and max speed I usually drive is 100kmh. I have the taller auto / diff gearing that the Tracker came with. Most of the off road use I drive is only groomed to rough logging roads during hunting season, usually with all of the snow I can plow!.
samiguy 07-11-2008, 05:53 PM I think it was my setup, I am pretty sure if I messed with the auto enough I could have gotten it better. It shook so bad the lock-up feature of my seat belt would engage so I had to buckle up before I started the engine. Once I gave it some gas it smoothed right out and it was fine in park and nuetral, I havent heard of any other problems either.
As far as the vacuum goes, just hook it up to the vacuum pump, I bet it will be fine.
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