: full hydro....anybody????


RoverJC
07-09-2008, 09:52 AM
Hello,

Just wondering if any companies sell kits that are rover specific? ( I have a 91 RR)
The stock pump is toast, the box is plenty loose so I thought i would see what others have done.

It is not a daily driver but does go on the road quite often.

From the readings that I have done it seems very safe if you use quality components and proper installation.
I am still hesitant so I'm open to opinions and suggestions.
JC

darkstar
07-09-2008, 09:54 AM
This is something I plan on doing sooner or later. The only way I see that it can really be accomplished is to use a single-ended ram that acts on the tie rod. You would probably want to move the tie-rod to the front of the axle at the same time.

Do it up and let us know how it works.

rock90
07-09-2008, 10:13 AM
I do not know a company the sell rover specfic system. I can tell you the PSC http://racesteering.com/ sell kits that are everything needed for install.

I am doing a system now. I am going with a single sided ram. with a beefer knuckles.
made by Dedenbear.

madcowdungbeetle
07-09-2008, 10:15 AM
I would not put full hydro on a rover axle, the knuckles do not have near enough beef to handle it, swap to a D60 or 9-60 with after market knuckles and it's a whole different story.

RoverJC
07-09-2008, 10:50 AM
I have d44s under it right now.

The other big problem I have is that the Rover box does not turn as much as I would like.
It takes a VERY large space to turn this thing.

The whole reason is my fault though. I wanted the axle centered in the front wheel well and had to put on a custom arm that is much longer than the pitman arm.

Anyone konw if the internal stops on the bpx can be changed?
JC

madcowdungbeetle
07-09-2008, 12:01 PM
can you post any pics?

I think a longer pitman, or shorter steering arm and hydro-assist is what you will ultimately need.

Even with a D44 I'd advise against full hydro.

aaron t
07-09-2008, 12:42 PM
I have d44s under it right now.

The other big problem I have is that the Rover box does not turn as much as I would like.
It takes a VERY large space to turn this thing.

The whole reason is my fault though. I wanted the axle centered in the front wheel well and had to put on a custom arm that is much longer than the pitman arm.

Anyone konw if the internal stops on the bpx can be changed?
JC
i got a scout box from a junkyard, but you can buy a new/refurb scout box from a good parts store for $250, and it is an easy box to do hydro assist with. very easy to mod. then you can keep your mech steering and have a nice tight radius. probably $600 for all new parts and you will have hydro assist.
$250 for the box,
$100 for ram
$150 in misc hardware.
and of course the "buffer":flipoff2:

Jtisdale
07-10-2008, 05:36 AM
If you decide on hydro assist, I've got a brand new cylinder for sale:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=697618&highlight=

JCRover
07-10-2008, 06:00 AM
If you (or anyone else) wants a scout II steering box, I have one that was rebuilt & ported by redneck ram. Never installed as my project got scrapped.

Email me @ service@jcrover4x4.com if interested.

RoverJC
08-01-2008, 03:30 AM
Thanks for help!!
JCRover our names are so close I thought I was the last poster on this thread, that's why it took so long for me to post this!!!!
Anyways, will take some measurements when I get back to where the rover is living! (and some pics, they are worth a thousand words!!!!)

BTW what are some of the features of the scout box spline counts for input and sector shaft? ( same as saginaw boxes?)

JCRover
08-09-2008, 10:14 AM
The scout box is a saginaw box, & I'm pretty sure the input & output splines are the same as the GM & Ford versions. The benefit for the rovers is the forward facing pitman arm and flat frame mount, although it does mount to the outside of the frame (to me this is a benefit as it will give you a longer drag link (less angle on the tie rod ends), and more clearance on the engine side. You can even reuse one of the factory bolt holes for mounting the box. It is a 3 bolt design though, so some drilling & sleaving will be in order.