Well after getting rid of my toy and being truckless for a couple of months I found a good deal on a 79 F150.
I plan on keeping the 400 in it. The engine is apart for a rebuild right now. Boring it 40 over with flat top pistons (should be about 9 to 1CR). Edelbrock preformer intake and cam, Carter AFB with 675 CFM. Stock manifolds with dual 2 1/2" exhaust. Heads will be stock.
Does anyone see any potential problem with this set-up. I am looking for a good all around motor that will do mild towing and will be relaible above all else. Is there anything else I should do while the engine out and on the bench? I am not a big fan of headers and would rather not run them.
The truck has a four speed. I plan to use it for mild trails and playing in the woods.
I have heard the the drivlines are weak on these trucks and would like to get a new stronger rear driveline. The stock double cardan joint has been removed from the rear driveline. Who makes a reasonably priced stronger than stock driveline for these trucks.

please for the love of god, port the heads. i didnt and had to pull them back off. good intake and headers aint that good unless the heads can breath

please for the love of god, port the heads. i didnt and had to pull them back off. good intake and headers aint that good unless the heads can breath

why would you need to port the heads unless you used a single profile wimpy cam.

I thought the heads had sufficient flow for all but high horse high reving builds.
I may clean up the castings with a die grinder and do a light polish, but I really don't want to spend that much time on a true port and polish. If I was going to mess with the heads I would probably find a set of the Australian closed chamber heads.
Right now in the shop I have 2 sets of 400 heads and 1 set of clevland heads, all are 2-barrel heads. Would it really be worth the time and effort to port and polish the heads?

This article was in Hotrod some years back. Seems like a good recipe for a torquey 400. They did a port match and bowl cleanup on the heads.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/random/400build1.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/random/400build2.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/random/400build3.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/random/400build4.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/thoriated/random/400build5.jpg

Heads flow fine for truck use. They are a little restrictive on the exhaust, but that is why you use a dual profile cam.

Will an M-block ford cook starters like a chevy with headers installed? I had pretty good luck with the header on my Toyota, but the exhaust is on the oposite side of the enging from the starter. I have seen a lot of ruined starters on small blocks with headers.

I have read that build article before. I don't want to qut that much time into the heads, Last time I ended up with a large machine shop bill and not a lot of preformance gain.
For 16 hours of grinding intake manifolds I would rather buy headers. The engine doesn't need to rev very high. I don't play in the mud. It will probably spend more time hauling my bike around than anything.
I would like to get around 300hp, 450-400 ftlbs. Is it doable with this combination? I may add heads later on, but have a hard time spending that much money on an otherwise cheap build.

I never used to be keen on the 400 in the past, but after doing a good bit of research on them they seem like a decent option in these trucks if built properly.

The heads seem about right for a 400" engine for truck use. Do a little clean up on the ports, and a little bowl blending and they should be good. I would also machine the heads for screw in studs (for adjustability) and run a good set of roller rockers. As for the different heads you have, the 2-bbl Cleveland heads are identical to the 400 heads AFAIK, so use which ever are in the best shape.

A good aftermarket timing set should also be on your list. I will have a notch to be keyed straight up, which is one of the pitfalls of the stock setup.

There are also a few oil mods that could be beneficial to this engine, but I'll let others with more knowledge in the 400 area chime in on that.

As for your 300hp/400lb-ft goal, that should be easily obtainable. In '71 the 400 had a 9:1 CR stock, and put out 260hp@4400rpm, and 400lb-ft@2200rpm. Granted, those are SAE Net power figures, but it shouldn't be hard to make that much power on a 400" motor.

The Truck blocks are different than the car blocks. Ford changed the bottom end of the block due to the use of standard transmissions in the trucks. They stiffened up the lower end. The pistons i am using are Clevland pistons with the wrist pins reamed out to work with the 400 rods.
The Truck engines never had the cam timing dialed back like the car engines did.

Spend a little time in the exhaust ports if you use the M heads. Many of the Cleveland heads didn't have the exhaust air bumps or the passages, so if you have to have air for smog, they won't work unless you drill out the passages.

However, the Cleveland heads have a better bowl in the exhaust port and a better guide support than the truck heads. Either one will work fine, but the Cleveland head will be better for revving. You aren't going to like the stock manifolds, but they work so whatever you want, headers can always be added later on.

Crane makes an adjustable rocker arm kit. I've got about 100K on mine so they seem to be pretty reliable.

Use a high pressure, high volume pump and if you plan on racing it or using it on angles like sidehills and for climbing steep, either go with an aftermarket rear sump pan with baffling, or baffle your own pan using some guidelines from chevy pans. The factory pan has no baffles and will let the pickup uncover under hard braking or extreme angles.

My engine liked a 750 carb for racing, but the factory 2bbl works better for MPG and day to day driving and smog passage.

I like single pattern cams, but my engine has exhaust porting and headers so take that for what it's worth. The common 204-214 at .050 cams are too small for me. I like at least 218 degrees at .050 to help alleviate some of the bottom end torque and help it with 3500 rpm and up breathing.

Some people hate these motors, others love them. I'm in the middle, I like them, but I know their limits too. It won't get the mileage of a 351M and it won't have the brute force of a 460, but it doesn't have to have special motor mounts either.

You are on the right path, just do a little research and you will be rewarded with a good engine that will surprise a lot of folks and be reliable.

Use a high pressure, high volume pump and if you plan on racing it or using it on angles like sidehills and for climbing steep, either go with an aftermarket rear sump pan with baffling, or baffle your own pan using some guidelines from chevy pans. The factory pan has no baffles and will let the pickup uncover under hard braking or extreme angles.


I like single pattern cams, but my engine has exhaust porting and headers so take that for what it's worth. The common 204-214 at .050 cams are too small for me. I like at least 218 degrees at .050 to help alleviate some of the bottom end torque and help it with 3500 rpm and up breathing.



I do beleive mose people are going against the high volume pumps now for these engines. Just too many issues with them.


As for the single profile cam, it's pretty much old news these engines need them. Yes they will run with a single, but they will run much better with a dual profile cam.

I don't think I will go with headers righ now. I hav seen them be too much of a pain too many times and would rather avoid tham if I can.
Smog is not a concern. I don't think the heads I have have the air pump setup, but I will check.
This is the cam I have:
#2172

ENGINE: FORD 351M 400 V8
RPM RANGE: 1500-5500

Duration at 0.006" Lift: Intake: 282° Exhaust: 292°
Duration at 0.050" Lift: Intake: 204° Exhaust: 214°
Lift at Cam: Intake: 0.280" Exhaust: 0.295"
Lift at Valve: Intake: 0.484" Exhaust: 0.510"
Timing at 0.050" lift: Open Close
Intake: 5° ATDC 29° ABDC
Exhaust: 44° BBDC 10° BTDC
Centerlines: Lobe Separation - 112° Intake Centerline - 107°

I know what everything means, but am not sure how it all translates into real world preformance.
I think that I will be able to live with the limitations of this motor. I have all ther parts for the build already. If I don't like it or it blows up on me I will put a big block buick I have sitting around in it.
Which transmission should I have? the NP 435 of the T18?

I ended up having to heat wrap my starter when running headers on my 400. Ruined 2 before I did that.
Good article Quick & Dirty

As far as I know almost every 400 made had the dialed back cam timing, car or truck, Ive pulled apart at least ten and they all have a 4 degree retard built in. And if i remeber correctly, unless you buy the moroso intake spacer the clevland heads wont work. Clev. blocks were narrower than 351m/400 and you have to have a spacer to run a 400 intake. The engine Im running at this moment is a 400 with an edelbrock intake, holley 650 vac. secondary carb, and headers, and a dual profile cam with a straight up timing set, and it does just fine. www.tmeyer.com, most 400 tech and parts you'll ever find.

And if i remeber correctly, unless you buy the moroso intake spacer the clevland heads wont work. Clev. blocks were narrower than 351m/400 and you have to have a spacer to run a 400 intake.

The Cleveland heads are identical to the M heads. Its the CLEVELAND intake that needs the spacers on the M. The 4V Cleveland head intake ports won't match the stock M intake manifolds due to port sizing/shape mismatch, but the 2V heads barring minor changes are the same.

Sry Ive had more than a few, cause its friday night in Japan. Anyways heres how the head and intake thing work out, if any one is wondering.

If you use M heads and an M manifold, you do not need a spacer.
If you use M heads and a Clevo manifold, you need a spacer.
If you use Clevo heads and an M manifold, you don't not need a spacer.
If you use Clevo heads and a Clevo manifold, you need a spacer.

Sry Ive had more than a few, cause its friday night in Japan. Anyways heres how the head and intake thing work out, if any one is wondering.

If you use M heads and an M manifold, you do not need a spacer.
If you use M heads and a Clevo manifold, you need a spacer.
If you use Clevo heads and an M manifold, you don't not need a spacer.
If you use Clevo heads and a Clevo manifold, you need a spacer.

It has nothing to do with what heads you use. If you use a Cleveland intake on an M block you need spacers between the intake and heads because the Cleveland intake is narrower than the M intake because the Cleveland block is 1" shorter than the M block. If you use 4V Cleveland heads, you must use a 4V style Cleveland intake whether they are on a Cleveland block or an M block with spacers. You cannot use an M intake on a Cleveland block obviously. Apart from the 4V Cleveland heads porting mismatch, and barring a few minor details such as combustion chamber size and exhaust bumps or air passages, all M heads and Cleveland heads are interchangeable. This is a mute point though, because with a million or more M engines out there, who would even want to put a Cleveland intake on one? Why?

Im just showing what combos take what.Or are you a 335 series god? damn people are touchy. You said the exact fucking thing I said, and didnt prove a damn thing. And the reason people might want to use a clev. intake is becaus theres the small possibilty that, since the aftermarket for the 400m is no exsitent then you might find a single plan for a 351c. And those million M engines? not a goddamn one of them has a single plane intake or a 4 barrel intake stock. And i can promise you won't find many M engine intakes aftermarket either. 3 maybe 4 is all you can find.

Im just showing what combos take what.Or are you a 335 series god? damn people are touchy. You said the exact fucking thing I said, and didnt prove a damn thing. And the reason people might want to use a clev. intake is becaus theres the small possibilty that, since the aftermarket for the 400m is no exsitent then you might find a single plan for a 351c. And those million M engines? not a goddamn one of them has a single plane intake or a 4 barrel intake stock. And i can promise you won't find many M engine intakes aftermarket either. 3 maybe 4 is all you can find.

This one must be even harder to find. It has EFI on it AND it is a single plane for the 351m/400


http://1ton4x4.com/EFI/rails%20on%20intake.jpg

Nice efi setup, and let me guess thats a holley intake, which if it is, that means it isnt avaliable anymore. Nice set up, but this guy said with a million 400m's why would you use clevland shit,probably cause the 400m is complete shit stock, now I like my 400m but stock that engine is a complete piece of shit, start talking aussie heads, find a good intake, which will be a junkyard find if you want a single plane, unless you know something I dont.

big deal they are not found used any more. but the way your bitching about the 400 not having anything is just simply not true. There is aftermarket support for them. you just need to look.

as for single plane intakes. yes it was used. but last I knew a intake never gets worn out from using it

Im not saying that an used intake is a bad thing, I was merely stating that as far as I know there are no new single plane intakes. If you want aftermarket 400 parts try tmeyer.com. They got just about anything you'll ever need.

I don't think I will go with headers righ now. I hav seen them be too much of a pain too many times and would rather avoid tham if I can.
Smog is not a concern. I don't think the heads I have have the air pump setup, but I will check.
This is the cam I have:
#2172

ENGINE: FORD 351M 400 V8
RPM RANGE: 1500-5500

Duration at 0.006" Lift: Intake: 282° Exhaust: 292°
Duration at 0.050" Lift: Intake: 204° Exhaust: 214°
Lift at Cam: Intake: 0.280" Exhaust: 0.295"
Lift at Valve: Intake: 0.484" Exhaust: 0.510"
Timing at 0.050" lift: Open Close
Intake: 5° ATDC 29° ABDC
Exhaust: 44° BBDC 10° BTDC
Centerlines: Lobe Separation - 112° Intake Centerline - 107°

I know what everything means, but am not sure how it all translates into real world preformance.
I think that I will be able to live with the limitations of this motor. I have all ther parts for the build already. If I don't like it or it blows up on me I will put a big block buick I have sitting around in it.
Which transmission should I have? the NP 435 of the T18?


I think you will be wishing you had more cam for that engine.

There are some suttle differencse in the heads, but not enough to worry about. You could have to be running at 8,000 RPM to take advantage of the 4 barrel heads. The Ausie heads qre great, but I don't want to spend that much. I would probably go with aluminum heads If I wanted to spend money on them.

Why will I be wanting more cam? It is a little lacking in the intake lift, but other than that it seems Ok.
I think I will skip the headers for now.
I already have the intake carb and cam.
What are some of the oiling mods to do?

There are some suttle differencse in the heads, but not enough to worry about. You could have to be running at 8,000 RPM to take advantage of the 4 barrel heads. The Ausie heads qre great, but I don't want to spend that much. I would probably go with aluminum heads If I wanted to spend money on them.

Why will I be wanting more cam? It is a little lacking in the intake lift, but other than that it seems Ok.
I think I will skip the headers for now.
I already have the intake carb and cam.
What are some of the oiling mods to do?

I think for what you are wanting the cam will be fine. It will probably run out of steam around 4500rpms, (despite what the cam mfg says), but it should be a real torquey cam across the board. Be sure to run the proper matched set of lifters and valve springs to get all you can out of the cam.

As for oiling mods, I'm not a 400 expert, but based on my knowledge of other ford motors there are probably a few things that would help. Depending on how far you want to go with it here are a few things to work on
-chamfer the oil holes in the crank
-chamfer/radius the oil opening on the filter pad
-install an oil restrictor in the #1 main bearing saddle and the #1 cam bearing. Some of the 335 experts might want to chime in on this one.
-chamfer/smooth the oil return galleys in the heads
-smooth and polish the inside of the block
-make a very small divot with a die grinder in your main and rod bearings where they meet. Be sure to very gently smooth the edge of you divot after you are done so as not to alter the actual surface of the bearings. This will make a tiny pocket for oil to collect and provide a bit of lube if oil pressure is temporarily lost. I have not tried this mod myself, but I have seen it done and looks like a great trick for an off-road motor.

Don't run a high volume oil pump. It will do absolutely no good and all you will achieve is pumping a bunch of extra oil up on top of your motor where it is not needed. They also waste power.

Im just showing what combos take what.

....... and confusing the matter immensely for those that don't know. All that needs to be known is that if you use a Cleveland intake on an M block, regardless of what heads you use, which are all the same by the way, you would need spacers. That's all you need to know. Nothing to do with head combos. Just intake and block, that's it.


Or are you a 335 series god?

No. Not trying to be. Don't think we need one either.


damn people are touchy.

I didn't have this allergic reaction like you did. Who's touchy?


You said the exact fucking thing I said, and didnt prove a damn thing.

Not true. Your first post was wrong and I corrected it. Your second post made it sound like you needed some kind of head/block matrix chart to figure out the spacers and you don't, so I simplified it by repeating what I said the first time in slightly different words hoping you would catch on too.


And the reason people might want to use a clev. intake is becaus theres the small possibilty that, since the aftermarket for the 400m is no exsitent then you might find a single plan for a 351c.

So this single plane Cleveland intake is going to match up to 2V heads, or are they going to be stupid enough to put the 4V heads on their truck and try to run around the street and trail at 3000 to 7000 rpms all day long?


And those million M engines? not a goddamn one of them has a single plane intake or a 4 barrel intake stock. And i can promise you won't find many M engine intakes aftermarket either. 3 maybe 4 is all you can find.

All I can say is that I am happy with my Weind 8020, and I think most people are happy with their Edelbrock performers and torquers. I wasn't aware they were out of production, but there are plenty of used ones around. Many more than the Clevelands that were only in production for 4 years from Ford. Its certainly not a logical argument, much less a valid one. Even if there were stock 4-barrel M intakes, who wouldn't trade the 90# piece of crap for a performance one anyway?

I agree that even if some people find the aftermarket support entirely adequate, the M block must have the least amount of support out there of any style motor, and even that would be nill had there never been a Cleveland motor, so I will give you that argument. That's what makes it so intriguing and gratifying that we can even make something out of these engines that most people write off as junk. But it just so happens for our heavy trucks, these motors are a medium weight torque monster thanks to their 4" stroke, and capable of very respectable HP all the way up to 6 or 7G's and still put out gobs of torque from idle on up.

^^^^^x2

I think there were 6 400 Fords entered into the Engine Masters Challenge last year....no... wait... There were 6 that finished in the TOP 10. I think that is right.... Someone look it up. There are 3 companies currently making intakes for the 400. You can install any 351C intake on a 400 with the use of spacers and the spacers make a great place to install fuel rails for fuel injection.

I run an Offy intake on my 400 and it works just fine.... I like it better than the Weiland that is now sitting on the shelf in the shop.

Wow, a whole lot of debate; more than I expected regarding the little 'ol 400.

At the end of the day the verdict is the same :You still have a wuss small block.

This is for jopes and the rest of you 335 lovers out there :flipoff2:

Pretty much everything has been covered, but I have to add that there apparently WAS an extremely rare factory spreadbore 4V intake for the 351M/400. One showed up on E-bay a few years back and caused a bit of a stir in the M-block internet circles. Apparently by the numbers it was a special order option for police cars.

And it's not terribly difficult to make a factory 2V intake into a 4V- I did one for a class that required a factory intake manifold- admittedly, it is pointless unless the class rules dictate it.

As far as not wanting headers, you might consider going with cleveland 4V exhaust manifolds. They are HUGE inside when compared to the standard M-block manifolds. Downside is that they are outrageously expensive for some reason- I suppose restorers have driven prices up. They also wont have the outlets pointed in the right direction. I solved both of these issues by buying a pair off of E-bay that some dillhole tried to grind the piss out of to fit in a place they didnt belong and ground clear through the casting- got the pair of them for like 30 some dollars. When I got them I studied them then cut the outlets off and rewelded(nickel rod) some outlets back on pointed in the proper direction- I used the outlets from some scrap 460 manifolds. Then I welded a piece of steel over the hole that had been ground in it- Again, class rules dictated a factory manifold- granted, those manifolds werent factory for that Bronco, but they are Ford factory manifolds, and besides, who is going to know?? If you are going to try this, make shure you get a good variety of 460 manifolds to study- there are quite a bit of differences in the outlet diameters and shapes- you want to keep good flow if you are going to go through all this trouble.

Wow, a whole lot of debate; more than I expected regarding the little 'ol 400.

At the end of the day the verdict is the same :You still have a wuss small block.

This is for jopes and the rest of you 335 lovers out there :flipoff2:

I'll not deny that a 4V big block has more torque and power right out of the box than a well massaged 400, but for a little less weight and room, like in an EB for instance, they fill a precise need rather nicely. You have to admit, for a square-bore motor to begin with, they still make very nice power way on up the range. Plus, at least in stock form, I have a longer stroke than you do. :p


Pretty much everything has been covered, but I have to add that there apparently WAS an extremely rare factory spreadbore 4V intake for the 351M/400. One showed up on E-bay a few years back and caused a bit of a stir in the M-block internet circles. Apparently by the numbers it was a special order option for police cars.

That may have been police, or possibly Austrailian, but I think the final verdict was it was some kind of experimental or research design that never made it to the public sector. It was probably passed out from someone inside the Ford product loop. If those intakes were out in any numbers, I'm pretty sure they'd show up more frequently on ebay or Craigs List, even though as I stated before, a lighter alluminum one would probably still be more desirable.

Sort of on that note, when looking up a replacement engine recently for my truck, I noticed, at least in print, that along with the "S" code 400, they offered a "Z" code 400 for F-350's. They were still listed as 2V, so unless its a misprint, that's not our mysterious 4V intake either. What I am wondering though, is this. Back in 79, a fellow I worked with rushed out and bought a brand new F-350 4 x 4 as soon as they hit the lot. I could swear that it had a 2V carb that dwarfed the normal 2150 Motorcraft you only see. The venturi bores looked like 2" or bigger. I want to say it was a 450 CFM Holley or Motorcraft, but I've never seen one since. Anyone out there got a 2WD or 4WD 79 F-350 with a stock factory carb larger than the 2150 or a "Z" in their vin?

Pretty much everything has been covered, but I have to add that there apparently WAS an extremely rare factory spreadbore 4V intake for the 351M/400. One showed up on E-bay a few years back and caused a bit of a stir in the M-block internet circles. Apparently by the numbers it was a special order option for police cars.

And it's not terribly difficult to make a factory 2V intake into a 4V- I did one for a class that required a factory intake manifold- admittedly, it is pointless unless the class rules dictate it.

The manifold had the XE casting number which means it was experiemental and never a production piece. There are a couple floating around and they pop up on e-bay every couple of years.

The manifold had the XE casting number which means it was experiemental and never a production piece. There are a couple floating around and they pop up on e-bay every couple of years.

yup. Thats everythine I ever seen or heard about that 4v intake for the 400.

Wow, a whole lot of debate; more than I expected regarding the little 'ol 400.

At the end of the day the verdict is the same :You still have a wuss small block.

This is for jopes and the rest of you 335 lovers out there :flipoff2:

twinkle toes, your just jealious. :flipoff2:

twinkle toes, your just jealious. :flipoff2:

"Jealious"???

Is that some weird state of being you wacky 400 owners experience :flipoff2:

In all seriousness, I just like busting you guys chops about the 400. 335's aren't for me, but they have their place. As has been mentioned, the biggest detriment is the lack of aftermarket support.

400's can do a great job in a wheeling rig. If you wheel like a pussy :blackflipoff:

"Jealious"???

Is that some weird state of being you wacky 400 owners experience :flipoff2:

In all seriousness, I just like busting you guys chops about the 400. 335's aren't for me, but they have their place. As has been mentioned, the biggest detriment is the lack of aftermarket support.

400's can do a great job in a wheeling rig. If you wheel like a pussy :blackflipoff:

how nice of you to fess up now. :)


mud is for sissies :blackflipoff2:

Why bore to .04 ? I wouldn't bore it any farther than necessary.They are a thin wall casting. Get a set of TMI's zero deck pistons. At the very least as far as porting, grind the smog bumps out of the exhaust ports & blend the seats, a back cut on the valve will help ex flow too. Headers are a must, stock manifolds suck.

Wow, a whole lot of debate; more than I expected regarding the little 'ol 400.

At the end of the day the verdict is the same :You still have a wuss small block.

This is for jopes and the rest of you 335 lovers out there


Yeah but its fun as hell to piss off the big block guys when i consistencly beat them with my little o' 400 (well kinda :flipoff2:, as far as aftermarket support, well for heads, if it bolts to a small block it will bolt to the 400 (nascar D3 heads come to mind here), Price motorsports make's spacers to bolt about any intake/ head combo to the 400 you can think of, pistons well you can have whatever you hearts desires made by any company that makes pistons, so a lot of it comes down to how much money does one want to sink into the motor for the aftermarket.

The 400 in my DD Bronco is running the 2172 Eddy cam and I ahve been very hapy with the way she runs. Probably about 80K or so on it and a consistent 10 mpg with 35" tires so I can't complain.

The 400 in my EB trail rig is running a single-pattern cam..280H Comp, advanced 4 degrees above card specs, and Aussie heads The motor has incredible low-end but runs out of ass around 4500 and would be a lousy highway runner.

Those that noted that the 351m/400 heads need only some bowl blending and massaging of the Thernmactor bumps in the exhaust runners (which are not present on the Oz heads or earlier 'C' heads anyway) are correct. Unless yr going for some silly high RPM build, the stock heads are fine; heck the runner size/volume and intake/exhaut sizes on a 2V 335 head are silly-big compared to even the largest of the stock Wheezer heads and comparable to what the aftermarket Wheezer heads have..165 AFR's for example.

I have yet another 400 in build now that has the same EFI intake manny Jopes is running. But I'm stroking this engine to 459 CI...4.03 bore x 4.5" stroke. The old DD '78 is getting 60s front and rear and a fresh engine at the same time.

Does anyone have any good pictures for a guids for a little porting and polishing on these heads?

Any suggestions for hing altitude? This motor will live at 5,000 - 7,000 feet.

The carb is not a 670cfm, it is a 600-650 somewhere in there carter.
What initial timing do I want to run, will 8 Degrees with the advance disconected work?

fap it thru my build thread. 351hp/490tq with stupid cheap parts.

serious beating on, hard miles, and it doesnt have any issues still!

still have 60 psi cold and 35 psi hot (220+) at idle. fawk the M block haters, i proved them wrong :D

Just finished your build thread, all 40 pages of it. That was sweet.
There isn't really any mud around here, so I will be sticking to 35" tires at the most, probably 33 for now. My engine build will be similar to yours. I hope to have it on the road this weekend.

Yeah but its fun as hell to piss off the big block guys when i consistencly beat them with my little o' 400

I wish you weren't a wacky canuckistani so far north, I think it would be fun for us to race :D

Just finished your build thread, all 40 pages of it. That was sweet.
There isn't really any mud around here, so I will be sticking to 35" tires at the most, probably 33 for now. My engine build will be similar to yours. I hope to have it on the road this weekend.

you can see the potential. if i actually put money into headwork, better rods/pistons/anything that went into the engine the power would be much more.


remember your using the longest stroke crank ford made, and long rods. use them to your advantage.


i would bet with another 2-3 grand in my engine i could make upwards of 700HP with nitrous. granted i dont pay for machine work, so ill i pay for is parts :D

I wish you weren't a wacky canuckistani so far north, I think it would be fun for us to race

In all technicalities my truck only sits bout a mile from the montana border sooooo to bad i've just so far east :), i'm maybe a good solid day's drive from spokanne i think though, but yeah it'd be a blast cause i have no respect for my truck :) (well no respect for the bodywork anyway lol)

but yeah it'd be a blast cause i have no respect for my truck :) (well no respect for the bodywork anyway lol)

Pffft, who gives a shit about bodywork! You're still a cool fawker (for a canadian) and it would be sweet to run a side by side. I'll eventually get my truck over to Spokane for events, maybe you can get down there and we'll Ford represent :D

sounds like a plan . . . perhaps by that time i may have a small block 460 . . . . . .

if I had the money, I would love to buy that 496 CI M block and drag race pro in the mud.

if I had the money, I would love to buy that 496 CI M block and drag race pro in the mud.

If you had money, you'd have that transexual operation you've wanted for so long :flipoff2:

If you had money, you'd have that transexual operation you've wanted for so long :flipoff2:

why you always hitting on me with your ghey tendencies :flipoff2: