My zuk has a 1.3 in it with 4.88 in toyotas with 33x12.50x15. I have great power in 1-4 gears but not so much in 5th. I can cruise all day in 4th at 4500 and going 70 but i cant stay at 70 in 5th at 4000. It starts to bog down. Can i get some help of why that is or what i can do to fix it.

what gears you got in your t-case? the 6.5's will give you a 18% reduction in two high. if you don't have low t-case gears i would look into that for sure. if you do the 4.88 may not be low enough for you. i have 35"ers on my fir and have to run 5.29's with the 6.5" just to run it and i don't use the 4 high much.

My zuk has a 1.3 in it with 4.88 in toyotas with 33x12.50x15. I have great power in 1-4 gears but not so much in 5th. I can cruise all day in 4th at 4500 and going 70 but i cant stay at 70 in 5th at 4000. It starts to bog down. Can i get some help of why that is or what i can do to fix it.

Have you done any performance mods to the engine? Not too many zuks get the luxury of using fifth gear, but I built the shit outta my engine and can run 5th on flat ground, With stock gearing and 30's. With that kinda gearing though and running 4500 at 70 in 4th, add a little power and you should be able to get 5th gear.

i've got stock engine, and gears with a 6.5 case and 33's. mine will pull all day in 4th but can't pull 5th unless going down hill. i always figured it could push the wind at that speed in 5th gear. :p

When I first bought my sami it had a stock case, 5.42s and 33" tires. It would run 5th all day long. I even ran 5th gear all the way from sac to Placerville before having to downshift! I was amazed. After t-case gears and larger tires, those days were long gone.
Travis..

yeah, the fix is a bigger motor........ ya need some ponies dude..

yeah, The Fix Is A Bigger Motor........ Ya Need Some Ponies Dude..

X2

X2

x3

Low HP / Torque motor, bad aerodynamics, and now heavy tires (rotational weight is BAD m'kay). You can re-gear, but the only way to reduce the rotational mass is to go back to tiny tires. Solution - 2.0L engine.

x3

Low HP / Torque motor, bad aerodynamics, and now heavy tires (rotational weight is BAD m'kay). You can re-gear, but the only way to reduce the rotational mass is to go back to tiny tires. Solution - 2.0L engine.

How much power do you get outta one of those? I'm getting 110 hp outta my 1.3, but i get piss gas mileage (8-11 mpg).

I believe 2.0L gets in the 125 HP & Torque - but that's conservative "peak" numbers. If you're getting that kinda HP (hard to do) out of a 1.3L, then it's probably running like a peaky crotch rocket, and may require hi octane fuel. No real low / mid power - gets it all at high revs. Larger displacement means you're getting power MUCH sooner.

I believe 2.0L gets in the 125 HP & Torque - but that's conservative "peak" numbers. If you're getting that kinda HP (hard to do) out of a 1.3L, then it's probably running like a peaky crotch rocket, and may require hi octane fuel. No real low / mid power - gets it all at high revs. Larger displacement means you're getting power MUCH sooner.

Definitely, i can lug it down to about 400 rpm in the snow as long as there's not too much piling up, but your right, torque is pretty short. Im gonna gear the piss out of it so i can run 5 grand and not be moving.Well thats an exageration, but you know what i mean.

zukidude1.3: with your engine built up like that, a mild T-case like the GRS2 will let you use 5th gear uphill on a slight grade with 32's.

Samiman: you can put a webber 2 barrel downdraft on it and run a header and you should be able to use 5th gear again. The carb and less restrictive exhaust will give you some better low end torque. Gearing it down more will allow you to run in 5th gear as well, but without some lower RPM torque 5th will bog down and you'll be shifting back and forth between 4 and 5 a lot.

I went with the little webber when I first sized up to 33's and it helped a lot. I've since gone to dual side draft mikunies and won't ever go back. The gas station loves me.

zukidude1.3: with your engine built up like that, a mild T-case like the GRS2 will let you use 5th gear uphill on a slight grade with 32's.

I'm going with trail tough's 4:1 kit and stickin to 31 inch tires. I dont break stuff cuz of my lil donut tires, so I'm keepin it that way.

I have a doug header already and just run my exhaust to the cat. The only problem with a different carb is how long and how much of a pain is it to change cause i have to pass smog.

my set up requires me to pull my whole intake manifold off and stick on the stock with the stock carb and put the airfilter back on.

The down draft is much easier. It bolts onto the stock intake manifold using an adapter plate. You can get the one that uses the stock aircleaner too so you can keep that installed as well. What it comes down to is 8 bolts, a gasket, hooking the water lines back to the carb, and reconnecting the vacuum lines.

Down draft swap takes about 1/2 to 1 hour. My side draft swap takes a couple hours. Regardless, it only has to be done once every 2 years and is worth the power in my opinion. The Thorley headers you have a
re CARB legal so they're fine to use.

dang 110H.P. what the hell did you have done here. i've heard of a 1.6l at over that but not the 1.3l. come on here hook me up here. some info please!

my budy has found some folks that are running the 1.6l motor that they had done in the salt lake city area and these are carbed motors with something like 195H.P. i've not been able to get contact info yet but as soon as i do i'll post it up.

I'd be interested to hear more about this as well.

I have great power in 1-4 gears but not so much in 5th.

you need to buy an '88-1/2 up trans. has a lower 5th. it just so happens that i have one of those in my garage, not being used...

[QUOTE=sami-stine;8497582]dang 110H.P. what the hell did you have done here. i've heard of a 1.6l at over that but not the 1.3l. come on here hook me up here. some info please!QUOTE]

Bored .060 over, 11:1 pistons, balanced and blueprinted, The head, intake and header are ported and polished, I cant remember who made the cam but it was the sickest one you can buy, adjustable cam gear, thorley header, roller rockers, the machine shop did some shit with the valves that I can't remember (bigger? I dunno), Weber downdraft (needs more carb. Engine is good to 10,000 rpm, but the damn carb. cant get enough air/fuel to rev past 9.), different valve springs, 2.5" exhaust with glass pack (loud as hell). I dyno'd it at PRE in portland oregon and it made 85 at the rear wheels with the air filter off. The dyno guru said those numbers minus the power drain through a 4wd drivetrain i should be over 110 brake horse power at about 6000 rpm. IT RIPS!!! Excuse the lack of detail, I pretty much sent it to my good friend Kevin at the local machine shop and said "make 'er fly", so he did. It was expensive, but like I said, It rips! Oh ya, dont even try the stock clutch. Lasted three months before I could slip the clutch in second. Centerforce is holding up well. With stock tires, I could put lil hondas to shame up to about 50 then they'd walk.

[QUOTE=sami-stine;8497582]dang 110H.P. what the hell did you have done here. i've heard of a 1.6l at over that but not the 1.3l. come on here hook me up here. some info please!QUOTE]

Bored .060 over, 11:1 pistons, balanced and blueprinted, The head, intake and header are ported and polished, I cant remember who made the cam but it was the sickest one you can buy, adjustable cam gear, thorley header, roller rockers, the machine shop did some shit with the valves that I can't remember (bigger? I dunno), Weber downdraft (needs more carb. Engine is good to 10,000 rpm, but the damn carb. cant get enough air/fuel to rev past 9.), different valve springs, 2.5" exhaust with glass pack (loud as hell). I dyno'd it at PRE in portland oregon and it made 85 at the rear wheels with the air filter off. The dyno guru said those numbers minus the power drain through a 4wd drivetrain i should be over 110 brake horse power at about 6000 rpm. IT RIPS!!! Excuse the lack of detail, I pretty much sent it to my good friend Kevin at the local machine shop and said "make 'er fly", so he did. It was expensive, but like I said, It rips! Oh ya, dont even try the stock clutch. Lasted three months before I could slip the clutch in second. Centerforce is holding up well. With stock tires, I could put lil hondas to shame up to about 50 then they'd walk.

10,000 rpm. Whats kind of rods?
Hell I could'nt keep a rod in a 1.3 or 1.6 8v at 6500..

[QUOTE=zukidude1.3;8502644]

10,000 rpm. Whats kind of rods?
Hell I could'nt keep a rod in a 1.3 or 1.6 8v at 6500..

They could be using a G13B bottom end? They're supposed to be good to 8-9,000 from the factory. Don't know for sure. I don't mud / sand that much, so I'm more into the low torque than high revving stuff.

I'm in the mid 80's with just bolt on stuff. There's a wall you hit around 85hp and thats when you have to start doing some serious tuning. Each thing you do will just milk a few more ponies out of it, but do enough things and you can get it up another 30hp. With dual side drafts Zukidude1.3 may be able to kick his set up to 115 or 120with just Natural Aspiration.

[QUOTE=zukidude1.3;8502644]

10,000 rpm. Whats kind of rods?
Hell I could'nt keep a rod in a 1.3 or 1.6 8v at 6500..

As far as i know they're stock but they have been lightened, but he might have gotten some aftermarket ones. Who knows. Never had a problem though, but like I said I cant make the 10,000 rpm mark. I can run 8 all day, no problem. Were those engines balanced? Makes a big difference.

[QUOTE=sami-stine;8497582]dang 110H.P. what the hell did you have done here. i've heard of a 1.6l at over that but not the 1.3l. come on here hook me up here. some info please!QUOTE]

Bored .060 over, 11:1 pistons, balanced and blueprinted, The head, intake and header are ported and polished, I cant remember who made the cam but it was the sickest one you can buy, adjustable cam gear, thorley header, roller rockers, the machine shop did some shit with the valves that I can't remember (bigger? I dunno), Weber downdraft (needs more carb. Engine is good to 10,000 rpm, but the damn carb. cant get enough air/fuel to rev past 9.), different valve springs, 2.5" exhaust with glass pack (loud as hell). I dyno'd it at PRE in portland oregon and it made 85 at the rear wheels with the air filter off. The dyno guru said those numbers minus the power drain through a 4wd drivetrain i should be over 110 brake horse power at about 6000 rpm. IT RIPS!!! Excuse the lack of detail, I pretty much sent it to my good friend Kevin at the local machine shop and said "make 'er fly", so he did. It was expensive, but like I said, It rips! Oh ya, dont even try the stock clutch. Lasted three months before I could slip the clutch in second. Centerforce is holding up well. With stock tires, I could put lil hondas to shame up to about 50 then they'd walk.


Wow, what a lot to throw at a stock 1.3 8v. Probably would have been better money spent on a motor swap. Even a 1.3 twincam 16v with matched gearing to tires can pull fifth. In my 86 (noting the fifth gear ratio) 4.62's and 33's (no t'case at that time) I could do 80mph on flat in fifth (centreforce DF). Pulled hondas, acuras, volkswagons all the time. I eventually got frustrated with the lack of torque and pulled it for a 4.3L but it was fun on the street. to have power and economy in 5th you need more torque and higher gear ratio (bring rpms down) a 2.0L is a good choice.

there are guys claiming 300 ponies from turbo + N2O on 16v 1.3's. the wheelers on this board know very little about hot-rodding g-series engines. our pig american minds want to go bigger, 'case if some is good, more is better. the canucks don't have the big-cubes options, so they race the hell out of swift/firefly/holden variations of the light suzuki-based passenger cars. teamswift dot net will set your head spinning with their rice wizardry. these guys get serious. the standing claim is that the stock rods can take 300 hp on short-duration pulls. they are forged, after all. it's the rod bolts, main studs, and trusswork that needs the attention. i used their advice on prepping my 1.6 8v. it hasn't seen the street yet, i still have to do the port work on the head, but there is much to be learned and a lot to be gained with some sound engine tech. it's plenty cheap until turbos come into the picture. i got a lot of good advice on that board, and even sent my cam to canada to be ground (colt cams) with a profile that was actually engineered, instead of pulled out of a chevy list of generic profiles (all american "torque" cams, example 270/270 on an unspecified LSA and centerline - a botch job if i ever seen one).

so if you want to see some far out G-series motors, check out canada, eh? there is an aftermarket for engine internals, too- fat rods, knife-edged cranks, aluminum flywheels, fuel injection mods, o-ringed blocks, yadda yadda. really interesting stuff.

[QUOTE=sami-stine;8497582]dang 110H.P. what the hell did you have done here. i've heard of a 1.6l at over that but not the 1.3l. come on here hook me up here. some info please!QUOTE]

Bored .060 over, 11:1 pistons, balanced and blueprinted, The head, intake and header are ported and polished, I cant remember who made the cam but it was the sickest one you can buy, adjustable cam gear, thorley header, roller rockers, the machine shop did some shit with the valves that I can't remember (bigger? I dunno), Weber downdraft (needs more carb. Engine is good to 10,000 rpm, but the damn carb. cant get enough air/fuel to rev past 9.), different valve springs, 2.5" exhaust with glass pack (loud as hell). I dyno'd it at PRE in portland oregon and it made 85 at the rear wheels with the air filter off. The dyno guru said those numbers minus the power drain through a 4wd drivetrain i should be over 110 brake horse power at about 6000 rpm. IT RIPS!!! Excuse the lack of detail, I pretty much sent it to my good friend Kevin at the local machine shop and said "make 'er fly", so he did. It was expensive, but like I said, It rips! Oh ya, dont even try the stock clutch. Lasted three months before I could slip the clutch in second. Centerforce is holding up well. With stock tires, I could put lil hondas to shame up to about 50 then they'd walk.


What machine shop??? I need to talk to them!!!

[QUOTE=zukidude1.3;8502644]


What machine shop??? I need to talk to them!!!

x20000000000000000000000000000000 i'm looking into a motor soon. mine smokes a lot on warm up. the ring are trashed i think, the rear main is going south to. i've heard of 195 out of a 1.6 8v so i wounder what you buddy could do with one.
i need the low end so i'm not looking to go to the drags just want to be able to use my 4 high. the 1.3 just can't get'r done.

[QUOTE=tinbeater;8502975]

They could be using a G13B bottom end? They're supposed to be good to 8-9,000 from the factory. Don't know for sure. I don't mud / sand that much, so I'm more into the low torque than high revving stuff.

They must be using the g13b rods???
The 1.3 and 1.6 8v rods are a weak link. I have seen beefier rods in lawn mowers.
Anyone know if the 1.3 16v. rods with fit a 1.6 8v. crank????
I not afraid to deck the block or get taller pistons to make up the difference in the stroke.

you can't be serious. The rods aren't weak at all. They may not be beefy, but you're talking about a 1.3L. If you get a shorter rod and put a taller piston on the rod to make up the stroke difference you're adding more load to the rod and reducing the volume in the cylinder of your 1.6L to that of a 1.3L. I can't be positive, but I don't think you'll have proper valve clearance with that setup either. You'd need to do a lot of remachining and reworking of the engine to try and run the wrong size rod which isn't the weak link to begin with. Change out the bolts and studs and throw in some roller bearings. I'd change out the guides too. Get the whole thing ballanced and it should run great. If you wan't beefy rods, find some aftermarket forged rods that are designed for this engine.

[QUOTE=zukidude1.3;8502644]


What machine shop??? I need to talk to them!!!

The machine shop I used is nothing special. Do your research, figure out what you want, and take it to a reputable machine shop who knows what they're doing. This stuff isn't like 1.3l magic, it's standard high performance engine building. There is nothing THAT special about what I did, just like building a small block chevy, make it breathe, make it squish the shit outta the air/ fuel mixture, make it so it'll burn it, and balance the damn thing. SIMPLE!

you can't be serious. The rods aren't weak at all. They may not be beefy, but you're talking about a 1.3L. If you get a shorter rod and put a taller piston on the rod to make up the stroke difference you're adding more load to the rod and reducing the volume in the cylinder of your 1.6L to that of a 1.3L. I can't be positive, but I don't think you'll have proper valve clearance with that setup either. You'd need to do a lot of remachining and reworking of the engine to try and run the wrong size rod which isn't the weak link to begin with. Change out the bolts and studs and throw in some roller bearings. I'd change out the guides too. Get the whole thing ballanced and it should run great. If you wan't beefy rods, find some aftermarket forged rods that are designed for this engine.


Yes I'm serious. I have 2 blocks with holes in them from the rods breaking.
Both had arp. stud kits and both engines were balanced.
Now if you want to impress me tell me who sells a aftermarket forged rod without having them custom made.
PS. I have already talked to Eagle rods a few years ago about having them made and they were big bucks.

Yes I'm serious. I have 2 blocks with holes in them from the rods breaking.
Both had arp. stud kits and both engines were balanced.
Now if you want to impress me tell me who sells a aftermarket forged rod without having them custom made.
PS. I have already talked to Eagle rods a few years ago about having them made and they were big bucks.

i'm gonna school your ass, because this thread is making me pissy:

1) hole in block sounds like high rpm damage. that should not happen on the power stroke on a naturally aspirated engine. cast pistons are more likely to go first on the power stroke. rod bolts are next. rods can be shot peened, de-stressed, polished, balanced on both ends, etc. a 10k rpm motor should be built from the ground up as a 10k rpm motor.

2) aftermarket rods do exist, you can get forged OR H-beam. 137mm honda D16 rods can be fitted as well, gut G13B rods are stronger in stock form. stock D-series rods will easily take 200 hp. D16 rods are also available from eagle. toy 4agze rods are also an option with 1mm bearings. also, the honda d16 crank can be machined to fit the g16 and machined to use nissan e15et rods which are cheap and strong.
forged pistons are also available as a drop-in part from suzukiRD.

suzukiRD forged rods:
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/8629/forgedrodsdm5.jpg

suzukiRD H-beam 450 HP rods:
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/5035/suzukiswifthbeamrodsrh1.jpg

comparison for toy 4agze rods against skinny GTI rods
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/3404/4agrodsmj3.jpg

this is what an 11,000 G16 crank looks like:
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/6156/suzukiswiftcrankshaftrq2.jpg

these are properly treated stock rods:
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/6140/lightenstockrodsew1.jpg




i respect you tinbeater, but golly gee willikers, you can learn something new every day!



-LBS out.

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pauterods-suzuki.html

I don't know what you're looking at for specs, or for prices. Check this link and see if they have what you need.

[QUOTE=hogcat;8504764]

The machine shop I used is nothing special. Do your research, figure out what you want, and take it to a reputable machine shop who knows what they're doing. This stuff isn't like 1.3l magic, it's standard high performance engine building. There is nothing THAT special about what I did, just like building a small block chevy, make it breathe, make it squish the shit outta the air/ fuel mixture, make it so it'll burn it, and balance the damn thing. SIMPLE!

I knew you would not tell us the name of the shop.:shaking:
Its pretty hard to swallow your story. You had a engine built and remember nothing about the building of it. If I, or anyone had a motor built like yours we would know what was in it.:laughing::laughing:

i'm gonna school your ass, because this thread is making me pissy:

1) hole in block sounds like high rpm damage. that should not happen on the power stroke on a naturally aspirated engine. cast pistons are more likely to go first on the power stroke. rod bolts are next. rods can be shot peened, de-stressed, polished, balanced on both ends, etc. a 10k rpm motor should be built from the ground up as a 10k rpm motor.

2) aftermarket rods do exist, you can get forged OR H-beam. 137mm honda D16 rods can be fitted as well, gut G13B rods are stronger in stock form. stock D-series rods will easily take 200 hp. D16 rods are also available from eagle. toy 4agze rods are also an option with 1mm bearings. also, the honda d16 crank can be machined to fit the g16 and machined to use nissan e15et rods which are cheap and strong.
forged pistons are also available as a drop-in part from suzukiRD.


suzukiRD forged rods:
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/8629/forgedrodsdm5.jpg

suzukiRD H-beam 450 HP rods:
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/5035/suzukiswifthbeamrodsrh1.jpg

comparison for toy 4agze rods against skinny GTI rods
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/3404/4agrodsmj3.jpg

this is what an 11,000 G16 crank looks like:
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/6156/suzukiswiftcrankshaftrq2.jpg

these are properly treated stock rods:
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/6140/lightenstockrodsew1.jpg




i respect you tinbeater, but golly gee willikers, you can learn something new every day!



-LBS out.

Thanks for schooling me littleblacksambo.:grinpimp:
That is the info. about the honda stuff was what I was looking for.

1.6 16v, 6.5 TC gears, stock axle gears, 32" tires. It will accelerate up hills in 5th gear. This is the motor a Samurai should have come with. Gives it the correct power to weight ratio.

Thanks for schooling me littleblacksambo.:grinpimp:
That is the info. about the honda stuff was what I was looking for.

sorry, i wasn't trying to be too much of a prick. i posted the location of this type of information earlier in the thread, so i got cranky. it was late and i was tired. :stirthepot:

you will have to do your homework if you are going to build up a suzuki engine for big power. same principles apply for v8 drag motors. you can apply super stock class build techniques and get good results at low cost. google that.

i will state for the record that samurai enthusiasts and samurai aftermarket dealers don't know dick about suzuki engines in this regard. there are gifted fabricators who can punch out enough trigonometry to design a good suspension, have trial-and-errored their way through the drivetrain, and dealers exist who are willing to invest in the common, rudimentary engine add-ons (except for the cams, they're crap). if daydreams of 10,000 rpm and 400 horsepower with an engine that sweeps less volume than a super big gulp meet your fancy, the information is out there.

[QUOTE=zukidude1.3;8508546]

I knew you would not tell us the name of the shop.:shaking:
Its pretty hard to swallow your story. You had a engine built and remember nothing about the building of it. If I, or anyone had a motor built like yours we would know what was in it.:laughing::laughing:

I could honestly give less of a shit about what you think. My samurai fuckin rips! Thats all that matters to me. And apparently i'm doing the impossible by having an engine that doesn't throw rods over 6k rpm. Like I said, I don't have to prove myself to any of you guys. :flipoff2:

Oh yeah. If any of you "hardcore" guys live on this side of the country and wanna witness this miracle, we'll be in browns camp on sunday (TSF).

I could honestly give less of a shit about what you think. My samurai fuckin rips! Thats all that matters to me. And apparently i'm doing the impossible by having an engine that doesn't throw rods over 6k rpm. Like I said, I don't have to prove myself to any of you guys. :flipoff2:

Oh yeah. If any of you "hardcore" guys live on this side of the country and wanna witness this miracle, we'll be in browns camp on sunday (TSF). I knew you would not tell us the name of the shop.
Its pretty hard to swallow your story. You had a engine built and remember nothing about the building of it. If I, or anyone had a motor built like yours we would know what was in it.

I totally agree with you about the general gearhead public around here and building engines. I get bent when I see them refer to themselves as hard-core tech as they rip on noob's for asking dumb questions. Their solution to more power is to drop in a GM motor or part and make it fit.


The 1.3 is capable of a whole lot more than anyone credits it for. Just with bolt on parts on a stock engine You get more power than stock 1.6 8V drop in. A preformance built 1.3 will out preform a 1.6 16V with multipoint fuel injection. If you build those 1.6's up, A preformance built 1.6 has over 2000lbs-ft torque at the wheel and will take you vertical if you could stick to the surface at 90deg. It will will knock the socks off of a stock 2.0. Once you get into building up a 2.0 DOHC into a preformance engine you won't need more power than that for anything in a Samurai.
For the doubters, just use google. All the "hard core" members whine because no one uses the search function on this site, but then they can't use their own internet search function. Not all the answers are on this site, or on i-zook and the parts aren't sold at petroworks or trail tough. For those answers you need to venture out into the WWW. Most of this stuff is being done by the tuners and street racers (gasp) hate them all you want, but they turned to engine preformance when we turned to suspension and gearing. Apply some engine tech to your rigs and you might be surprised at the outcome.

I totally agree with you about the general gearhead public around here and building engines. I get bent when I see them refer to themselves as hard-core tech as they rip on noob's for asking dumb questions. Their solution to more power is to drop in a GM motor or part and make it fit.


The 1.3 is capable of a whole lot more than anyone credits it for. Just with bolt on parts on a stock engine You get more power than stock 1.6 8V drop in. A preformance built 1.3 will out preform a 1.6 16V with multipoint fuel injection. If you build those 1.6's up, A preformance built 1.6 has over 2000lbs-ft torque at the wheel and will take you vertical if you could stick to the surface at 90deg. It will will knock the socks off of a stock 2.0. Once you get into building up a 2.0 DOHC into a preformance engine you won't need more power than that for anything in a Samurai.
For the doubters, just use google. All the "hard core" members whine because no one uses the search function on this site, but then they can't use their own internet search function. Not all the answers are on this site, or on i-zook and the parts aren't sold at petroworks or trail tough. For those answers you need to venture out into the WWW. Most of this stuff is being done by the tuners and street racers (gasp) hate them all you want, but they turned to engine preformance when we turned to suspension and gearing. Apply some engine tech to your rigs and you might be surprised at the outcome.

Thank you. I am not the most knowledgeable guy when it comes to engine building (thats why I sent it to someone else) and really could care less whats in the engine, because it came back and I put it in and it does exactly what I wanted it to do. You are cool in my book.

[QUOTE=zukidude1.3;8508546]
Its pretty hard to swallow your story. You had a engine built and remember nothing about the building of it. If I, or anyone had a motor built like yours we would know what was in it.:laughing::laughing:

I think it's a rare build, but - hard to swallow? Why? There's lots of people who hand their engine to a machine shop and say, "I want it to go fast, here's my budget". They'll remember some of the stuff done, but not all of it. Since they don't have a machine shop, and they'll never have one - they don't care what the shop did to make it go fast - they just care that it does what it was intended to do.

There's 4-bangers turning 20,000 RPM from factory. Why can't a machine shop make a 1.3L turn 10k reliably? It's easy enough to make small displacement engines turn high RPM.

Most the "go-fast" stuff I know of for racing is useless, and even harmful to the type of power I want. Often the techniques / technology making an engine perform well at high RPM rob performance from low-end-grunt... where I need it most, and where the 1.3L is already lacking.

Can a 1.3L be built to be better than a stock 1.6L? Sure. But the 1.6L is so cheap, most people just go for the swap. Some people like to be unique, and blaze their own trail. That's the beauty of being a gear head... you can build it however YOU want.

sorry, i wasn't trying to be too much of a prick. i posted the location of this type of information earlier in the thread, so i got cranky. it was late and i was tired. :stirthepot:

you will have to do your homework if you are going to build up a suzuki engine for big power. same principles apply for v8 drag motors. you can apply super stock class build techniques and get good results at low cost. google that.

i will state for the record that samurai enthusiasts and samurai aftermarket dealers don't know dick about suzuki engines in this regard. there are gifted fabricators who can punch out enough trigonometry to design a good suspension, have trial-and-errored their way through the drivetrain, and dealers exist who are willing to invest in the common, rudimentary engine add-ons (except for the cams, they're crap). if daydreams of 10,000 rpm and 400 horsepower with an engine that sweeps less volume than a super big gulp meet your fancy, the information is out there.

Its all cool.
But I have a 1.6 8v. built high compression motor that I run alot of timing in. Propane seems to like that, but the stock rods did'nt.
As far as machining ect. thats not a proplem I have full access to one with a flow bench and all the goodies but no dyno.:(
Sorry I didnt see your earlier post about the rods.

I can see the dummy forgetting what his motor is made of. But forgetting the name of the machine shop who did the work??? Give me a break, what has he to hid by not saying the name of the Machine shop if it is real???:shaking::shaking::shaking::shaking:

I can see the dummy forgetting what his motor is made of. But forgetting the name of the machine shop who did the work??? Give me a break, what has he to hid by not saying the name of the Machine shop if it is real???:shaking::shaking::shaking::shaking:

What I don't understand is how you can whine so damn much!!! E+L Auto parts and machine shop. Talk to Kevin. Hope he tells you where to jam it.:flipoff2:

What I don't understand is how you can whine so damn much!!! E+L Auto parts and machine shop. Talk to Kevin. Hope he tells you where to jam it.:flipoff2:


DUH..... ever think someone might need a decent machine shop? Probably not. But since Kevin is a jerk also, probably you everyone here a favor by saying Kevin hates new business and wants everyone to jam it.:grinpimp::grinpimp::grinpimp:

DUH..... ever think someone might need a decent machine shop? Probably not. But since Kevin is a jerk also, probably you everyone here a favor by saying Kevin hates new business and wants everyone to jam it.:grinpimp::grinpimp::grinpimp:

I just figured he might find your engine build a bit HARD TO SWALLOW. :flipoff2:

I have full access to one with a flow bench and all the goodies but no dyno.:(


i would kill to have access to a flow bench right now with the head i've got sitting on my workbench. google a fellow named guy croft, out of britain. that dude knows what flow is all about! he's done 16v suzis, but no 8's. sure, hopping up a 8v anything is turd polishing, but there is a lot to be said for maximizing the efficiency of the light little mill.

There's a lot of things you can do to improve the torque of the 1.3L as well. For that you will need to spend a bit more money to run higher compression. Running high compression means different pistons, high pressure head gasket, and a high lift cam.
Or you can run with a low boost supercharger (6-10psi). You'll need a modified intake, an intercooler, and exhaust with a waste gate. I think Sean DeVinney is running a 1.6 with a supercharger (might be a turbo charger)

using both a high compression 1.3 and a supercharger would be a lot of torque. With a high compression 1.3 engine you don't want to run a lot of boost because it can go south on you really fast.

why go with a built up G engine over a V6 ford engine? Weight to power ratio. Look at the Air Sean gets in his little zook. Lot easier to go up and over stuff too. (not talking about a stock G engine)

as for 1.3 vs. 1.6, Building up a 1.3 costs a little less than a swap and will give you more torque or HP (depending on how you build it) but the 1.6 in its stock form is easier to maintain than a built or blown 1.3, plus it gives you the potential in the future to build that up as well and have even more power. :D