I bought a 4-door Suzuki Sidekick on Toyota axles (SAS'd) and 35" tires. I want to re-build it to be reliable and accept 37" tires down the road. I've done the "washer" and drill-out upgrades to the sidekick power steering pump, and added a small cooler. The fluid didn't boil and the tires do turn easier, but I can tell it's struggling, and fails to turn the tires in certain situations. Needs to be driven on-road. Being a Suzuki guy, I'm interested in doing "just enough". No super-over-engineered, too heavy and too expensive components please.

* Upgrade power steering components (box, pump and reservoir)
- stronger than stock Suzuki components
- IFS is common, so has good support
- But, that means demand is exceeding supply (driving up price)
- May be able to find alternate (Nissan?) components, but support would be harder to find.
- May be able to use 80's Celica box & pump I have laying around (but will it be strong enough?)

* Hydro assist (like redneck ram (http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/hydrosteering.html))
- For about the same cost as upgrading to IFS box / pump / bracketry, I could tap my existing box and install ram assist.
- Easier to install than sourcing cheaper-than-IFS box & pump
- I don't know if this setup is more reliable (relieving stress) or less reliable (same or added stress).
- Could send my Celica box to redneck ram to have it re-built & tapped for $125 + S&H.
*EDIT* $125 does not include re-build (additional $140). Their Stage II kit (ram, hoses, mounts, etc) for $499 does include re-build.

* Do both
- Looks like the "premium" setup (shy of full-hydro)
- 2x as expensive as either solution seperately

Price, power, weight etc all shy me away from full hydro. Which way would you go?

I believe Brent is selling a Hydro-assist kit. I've seen it on a couple of rigs, but not on his website, yet.

That would be good with either the Sky or TT OTT Steering...

We have a Hydro-assist modified steering box somewhere. Looks like someone drilled a couple holes in the box in certain spots so that the pump could push a ram. I'll look into it.

Yeah, drilling and tapping the box is easy enough. I'm just wondering if the zooki stuff can handle it, or if I should be going with something else.

the celica box will work rocky road outfitters has a pitman arm for it. sky has a hiem type rod end you could use. but there are not many options for the parts.

the toy IFS has a little brother that works just as well. its the two wheel drive truck box of the same years. they use the same bore at the box as the IFS so the pitman arm is the same. they are really close other than the one bolt, you got two that go through the frame sideways and one that goes down through the top to bottom. you can run this box with up to a 35" and not do to bad. the pump is the thing that won't like it much. a high flow rated pump is the best thing you could do here. the thing is that you got to step up to a tc type pump or go to a signaw type.

you can get a ram kit for it from low range off road.com these dudes have all the parts for your steering. from the box if you want one that is already drilled. you can do this your self and they will sell you the drill bit and tape to do this. and there are many places that you can find the info to do the rest of the job. if you got the funds i would do the OTT steering swap first. then add the ram. us the toy box ( IFS or the two wheel drive one) and you can get a 3/4" drop pit man arm and stock, the stock one has a few inches off drop. the best kit for the pump,res,cooler,hoses, the only thing you would have to find is a bracket. there is a few places to find that.

the celica box will work rocky road outfitters has a pitman arm for it.

Be prepared for major headaches if you buy anything from them.
Go with the IFS box and upgraded pump. At least that way you can go with assist later if ya want.

Be prepared for major headaches if you buy anything from them.
Go with the IFS box and upgraded pump. At least that way you can go with assist later if ya want.

x2 on that. they are not the best to deal with.

x2 on the toy stuff. better support for the IFS stuff. and yes the hydro would be your next step!

If I go IFS, will hydro assist be necessary? Will it make the system more reliable (by making it easier on steering box / pump) or less reliable (too much force on ball joints)? I'd be more willing to spend the $$$ on IFS if it were a "complete" solution, and can run reliably with 37" tires. I'd be a lot less happy if I have to spend another $500 + S&H to make it work.

the ifs stuff will turn your 37"s with out the hydro but is an option for you at a later time. i would spend the extra cash on a pmp to start with. these big tires are hard on them. if you have the toy axles already i would for sure do the hi-steer and at lest the FJ-80 T.R.E.i did hiem joints on mine but this is an easy swap. the biggest issue is you have to move the box forward for every thing to clear. but it will work just spend the time to put your parts togetrh first and then do it. you can get ballistic fab to do the tierod and drag link.

I'm trying to get the beefiest TRE I can - was thinking about pulling some from a junk yard of a 3/4 or 1 ton, and shortening it? I broke a ball joint, and it sucked. Used a strap to limp out of Cadillac hill.

You know you have to have the best crap out there next year :p Then you can tow Izzy out this time!

You know you have to have the best crap out there next year :p Then you can tow Izzy out this time!

haha - I don't want to be the best, I just want to be reliable. One step at a time. I don't think I'm going to try and keep up with the $40k rock crawlers :shaking: And, I hope no one will be towing anyone, but it would be interesting to repay Izzy :D

don't bother with the old TRE. you can get new ones for like $20 each, for the fj80 ends with the jamb nuts. or go full hiem joints. the later is the way i want. for the tie rod and drag link you can get them from ballistic fab or from marlin. these will be in the .250 wall DOM stuff. and they will thread them for your fj ends or hiems. i would look into ballistic fab they have the heims to so you can get the whole thing drop shipped to you ready to go. you can also contact SKY MANUFACTURING they have the whole thing for they toy axles. the over the top, arms, pitman arms, steering boxes, and the links to make them all work. ok its not really cheep but for the price you get every thing built done and ready to install. and for your parts if you use the fj80 TRE you can get them in most auto parts stores. this is the easy way to do this. the OTT toy arms and the pitman arm are drilled with the taper for the fj80 TRE's.

Most hi-steer kits I've seen are $400+, and don't really talk about what TRE they're using so I don't know how beefy they are. I was hoping I could make my own for less $$$ and have better control over the components used.

Most hi-steer kits I've seen are $400+, and don't really talk about what TRE they're using so I don't know how beefy they are. I was hoping I could make my own for less $$$ and have better control over the components used.

I needed a different pitman arm for my setup so i went with one that was reamed for a fj 80 TRE. its a 1 ton piece and is $20. I didnt have a metric tap for that size so i just ordered a threaded insert.
Really you should have no problems turning 37's on pavement Just dont expect to turn with it bound up. I run a GM pump with my setup instead of a yota. Just because i run a gm motor (easy) and the resivoir is big enough for assist when i do it.
I got my stuff from here. you can see 2 different pitman arms and the TRE at the bottom. I dont remember where i got the threaded insert from. Maybe ballistic. http://www.trail-gear.com/steering.html

Most hi-steer kits I've seen are $400+, and don't really talk about what TRE they're using so I don't know how beefy they are. I was hoping I could make my own for less $$$ and have better control over the components used.

Most are using FJ-80 TRE's. Have you ever seen an FJ-80 TRE? Sure, GM 1-ton stuff might be a little tougher, but that becomes a moot point when you realize the FJ-80 TRE's are more than tough enough. You're as likely to find FJ-80 TRE's on the shelf at an autoparts store as the 1 ton Chevy TRE's and for the same money or less.

Most are using FJ-80 TRE's. Have you ever seen an FJ-80 TRE? Sure, GM 1-ton stuff might be a little tougher, but that becomes a moot point when you realize the FJ-80 TRE's are more than tough enough. You're as likely to find FJ-80 TRE's on the shelf at an autoparts store as the 1 ton Chevy TRE's and for the same money or less.

yup! the fj-80 TRE is cheep. you want to save some $$$ go to you local steel shop. you need 1 1/4 .250 wall.DOM only. no sch 40 here. you need two 48" sticks to start with. then find a good machine shop/ 4x4 fab shop. they should have the 23mm left hand and right hand tread taps. they should tap your tubs for at MAX $50. then you need four fj-80 TRE. marlin crawler and all-pro off road have them for right at $20 each with the jamb nut. sky mfg has them all so. hell they will cut and tap you're tierod and drag link if you want. but for the budget get you r tubs have them tapped and thread your TRE in. you can find the OTT arms used for around a bill. then get you pit-man arm tapered and your golden. the most expensive parts will be your arms. the toy arms are easy to find the sami ones are not. some one was saying something about merc arms. not sure how a german arm would work with the sami stuff but hey it might work don't know. try these dudes for your arms if you have to get new ones!

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com there toy OTT arms are $140 new. toy pit=nam arm stock or flat for $65.50. so you could get all three arms for $200 new. so thats not to bad, and i think they have the fj-80 TRE to.

they get there stuff from sky mfg. but they have some sweet pricing. i my self stepped up to hiem joints. and drilled everything for 5/8 grade 8 hardware. this is not the easyest thing to do but they work great and the group i wheel with all run the same stuff so we have more that 2 spares one every run. fj-80 end is fairly common in most good parts stores. napa here in saint george utah has them on the shelf. the car quest in moab has them most of the year. but the time around jeep week, easter, and the CRUZ moab events they become hard to get.

if the .250 DOM is to pricey you can get weld in bungs for the fj TRE from ballistic fab. but by the time you get four bungs the cost will be the same. if you go this way you will need a welder or someone that has one, 2 sticks of 1 1/4 .120 DOM and 2 sticks of 1 1/2 .120 DOM. cut your tubes to the right size, and sleeve the 1 1/4 with the 1 1/2 this will be just as tuff as the .250 DOM. but larger O.D.

i got all my parts, steering box, pump, 4 heim joints, 2 -5/8 with spacers,and 2 -3/4 with the high miss align spacers, 2- 48" 1 1/4 .120 DOM,2- 48" 1 1/4 DOM, OTT arms, and pitman arm for $550. the hiem's with the bungs and spacers are $70 each so the fj TRE are the way to go for you.

god luck.