Had a little driveshaft carnage this weekend. I was running Toyota yokes and joints on a square shaft. Is there any such thing as a bigger yoke and joint that will still work with the Toy flange?
Here's a few pics.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z112/KevinHatch_2007/HPIM1422.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z112/KevinHatch_2007/HPIM1450.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z112/KevinHatch_2007/HPIM1452.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z112/KevinHatch_2007/HPIM1463.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z112/KevinHatch_2007/HPIM1464.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z112/KevinHatch_2007/HPIM1465.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z112/KevinHatch_2007/HPIM1471.jpg

I'm guessing that was your front one you blew?

Why not use a 1350 or 1410 joint for your dana 60 axle then leave the flange on the other side of the square driveline.

Are you running duals? What kind of angle is it at? Could have bound up at full droop and stretched the ears of the yoke/shaft.

I'm guessing that was your front one you blew?

Why not use a 1350 or 1410 joint for your dana 60 axle then leave the flange on the other side of the square driveline.

Yeah it was the front, notice the thread title. :flipoff2:
I do want to up size the joint and yoke. I guess that's probably the only way to do so.

Are you running duals? What kind of angle is it at? Could have bound up at full droop and stretched the ears of the yoke/shaft.

No. Just a single case right now. Not sure on the exact angle. Your probably right although it wasn't binding before.

Yeah it was the front, notice the thread title. :flipoff2:
I do want to up size the joint and yoke. I guess that's probably the only way to do so.



No. Just a single case right now. Not sure on the exact angle. Your probably right although it wasn't binding before.

Duh Yep I'm a idiot. The 1410 yoke will allow for more angle then the 1350 and I know High Angle driveline sells a yoke for 1410 for 60's.

Rotate your knuckles and put another Toyota yoke on. Maybe even lower your truck a little (remove a leaf out of both front and rear packs) to help make the angle less severe.

I'm guessing that was your front one you blew?

Why not use a 1350 or 1410 joint for your dana 60 axle then leave the flange on the other side of the square driveline.

If he was running a D60, that would be a good option as well ;)

If he was running a D60, that would be a good option as well ;)

Yeah, its only a D44. I like the height of the rig. It's only a little over 26" frame to ground.

Duh Yep I'm a idiot.

Naw! It's cool. Thanks for your input! All of you guys!

Quick guess is that the shaft bound up under extreme flex. I have the same issue with my 88' 3.0 single case. My shaft will bind at the very end of the wheel travel. So, I will limit the PS droop by a couple inches. (I'm pass drop)

You may be able to clear the yokes a little more for a few more degrees, but you'll still be pushing it. Yota shafts with their yokes yeild around 42 degrees before binding. That is what is happening.

Another option is to cut and turn the housing for a better(higher) pinion angle as mentioned before.

Yup I think your right. I guess it's time for a $$ blingy $$ driveshaft.

Having your shackles under the frame doesn't help castor angle much either, going through the frame would help. But as you already know it's not the easiest thing to do on tacoma frame. Are you running a single joint or a c/v at the t-case side? Running a single u-joint at both ends with one t-case is better than a c/v. Or adding duals cases would help. Pretty much all the options you don't want to hear. :flipoff2:

Chad

It's only money right?
I'm running a single joint at both ends. Dual cases will come eventually and solve the problem I'm sure.

Quick guess is that the shaft bound up under extreme flex. I have the same issue with my 88' 3.0 single case. My shaft will bind at the very end of the wheel travel. So, I will limit the PS droop by a couple inches. (I'm pass drop)

You may be able to clear the yokes a little more for a few more degrees, but you'll still be pushing it. Yota shafts with their yokes yeild around 42 degrees before binding. That is what is happening.

Another option is to cut and turn the housing for a better(higher) pinion angle as mentioned before.

I had the same problem when I did my SAS years ago. I cut the shackles from 6" to 4.5" (one inch over stock). It not only solved the DL bind but it also put the front end back to almost stock castor. Damn thing handled a lot better and the very minor DW I had went away. Jon at A-P told me to cut the shackles.

My front shackles are 4" center to center of the holes. I assume that's what you were referring to? I couldn't find any answers to my question "is there anything stronger to replace the toyota yokes and joints with that's still compatible with the toyota drive flanges" at my local driveline shops. I've decided my pinion/drive line angle sucks at full droop. So I've already replaced the broken yoke with another toyota one, and I'm about to bite the bullet and cut and turn the knuckles to get the right pinion angle. Surely this will solve the issue. I really don't want to spend the $$ on a "good" driveshaft since I plan on adding a dual case setup sometime later.

My front shackles are 4" center to center of the holes. I assume that's what you were referring to? I couldn't find any answers to my question "is there anything stronger to replace the toyota yokes and joints with that's still compatible with the toyota drive flanges" at my local driveline shops. I've decided my pinion/drive line angle sucks at full droop. So I've already replaced the broken yoke with another toyota one, and I'm about to bite the bullet and cut and turn the knuckles to get the right pinion angle. Surely this will solve the issue. I really don't want to spend the $$ on a "good" driveshaft since I plan on adding a dual case setup sometime later.

The Toyota joint and yokes are actually pretty damn strong. Just make sure you stick with quality yota joints and not the cheapo stuff.

I agree with you on not spending $$$ on the shaft. Turn the knuckles, and fix what you have and run it.

Which joints do you like? OE Yota? Aftermarket?

the yota stuff is pretty strong, seems like you got massive pinion angle, did you rotate your knuckles when you sas it? i used to run 6" shackles with no problems.

Which joints do you like? OE Yota? Aftermarket?

Stock Toyota ones are the best IMO. They usually only run around $20 or so. I know that All-Pro, Marlin, and Trail-Gear sell them for that price.

Are the Trail Gear creeper joints worth the extra cash? I know we're not talking about a lot, but the wife and I have a baby on the way. So I have to pinch every penny for a while!

Are the Trail Gear creeper joints worth the extra cash? I know we're not talking about a lot, but the wife and I have a baby on the way. So I have to pinch every penny for a while!

I know nothing about the TG joints. But Jess from High angle Driveline has stated the OEM joints are some of the strongest joints you can buy. He also stated that they are at least a one-ton or better joint if compared to american. He builds D-shafts for many of the big comp guys plus and lot of other motor sports.

Your joint failure was not the joint letting go but the joint binding because of poor d-shaft angle not a weak joint. In the tweleve years I have been wheeling a Toyota I have lost one u-joint, it was in the rear and had been on the truck when I bought it in 97. I do not wheel easy.

You dont want to hear this, but you need to take the front axle out, cut off and turn the knuckles. You broke due to binding the u-joint. Im guessing climbing, drivers tire drooped, good traction on the front. Axle wrap+droop+bad pinion angle = over angle on the yoke, and POP!

do you have straps on your leaf packs? if you dont the front end will pull apart and do as brian described...i had to add clamps to a spring pack a couple years ago for this reason....

however, the knuckles were already cut and turned as brian described...actually he cut and turned them for me since i got the axle from his company:p

Your joint failure was not the joint letting go but the joint binding because of poor d-shaft angle not a weak joint. In the tweleve years I have been wheeling a Toyota I have lost one u-joint, it was in the rear and had been on the truck when I bought it in 97. I do not wheel easy.

You dont want to hear this, but you need to take the front axle out, cut off and turn the knuckles. You broke due to binding the u-joint. Im guessing climbing, drivers tire drooped, good traction on the front. Axle wrap+droop+bad pinion angle = over angle on the yoke, and POP!

This was my post earlier...

My front shackles are 4" center to center of the holes. I assume that's what you were referring to? I couldn't find any answers to my question "is there anything stronger to replace the toyota yokes and joints with that's still compatible with the toyota drive flanges" at my local driveline shops. I've decided my pinion/drive line angle sucks at full droop. So I've already replaced the broken yoke with another toyota one, and I'm about to bite the bullet and cut and turn the knuckles to get the right pinion angle. Surely this will solve the issue. I really don't want to spend the $$ on a "good" driveshaft since I plan on adding a dual case setup sometime later.

I understand what happened. I'm in the process of turning the knuckles. I just wanted to go back together with new joints because the one that didn't let go has some slop in it, and one of the caps is turning in the yoke.

and everybody agrees to stay stock. so rotate those knuckles and order some OEM shiat, call it done.

Looks like that's the plan!

Are the shackle mounts on all Tacos under the frame? I was wondering why when you said your shackle bolt holes were four inches on center. That is why it did not change like mine did.

Most the ones I've seen are under the frame. I dunno.