From what I keep hearing I'm going to need some stronger axle shafts for the rear of my fj62 when I go SOA and run 36"-38" tires. I'm planning on throwing Longfields in the front, but I'll probably need some front shafts to hold up also. Is my only choice to go custom? What do you guys recommend?

I don't agree with that, I say run the hell out of them until you break a few.

The auto tranny in your '62 will be much easier on parts than a low geared manual.

Did you see the article I wrote in TT about Gunracer1's FJ-62 on 38's?

Damn thing gets around REAL good and all he did was add 5.29's!

I plan on using my 3.73s under my 60 w/ Goodyear 37 MTRs. I will of course be installing a 203 double and SM465. I know it won't be killer off the line but should get good milage and have a great crawl ratio even w/ the 3.73 (96:1 +/-). Don't know yet on the motor. Right now I just finished installing the rear axel with chevy springs and a SOA. Front is going to be Rancho 44044s w' SAO and SR. Waiting on the putting the front end on because UPS lost my chucks of 4140 that I was building my steering arms out of. We'll see. Maybe I take some pis this week end. Looks like the 37s are going to clear with plenty of room. Being vertically challenged, I will have to invest in those automatic side step, the kind that fold out and retract (not..). I'll just have to start working on my verticle leap. With 30x9.5 on the rear axel right now I still have to flatten then to roll the truck out of the garage.

Does anybody know who can make a c-clip eliminaor for these axels????

Nolen, I did read your article. I understand that the shafts are pretty strong as is, but I remember some guys snapping thier shafts, one resulting in a seriouse roll. I just like to play is safe is all. I think it's a good idea however to wheel it for a while with the stock set up and then change if need be. By the way Nolen, I know you're big on the stability of your rig, so I was wondering what wheel/tire combination you would recommend running on a SOA wagon? I was thinking something along the lines of 15x8" rims w/ 2"backspacing, still unsure of the tire. Thanks

I would run 15x10 with 2" BS and a 14.50" tire.

ESPECIALLY with a wagon. Lots of top heavyness in a SOA wagon.

If you stay in the 36" range, I recommend the 36 x 14.50 Swamper Radial...big 36 and it has some meaty lugs.

If you go with 38's go ahead with the 38.5 SX's and you will not be sorry.

Couple 38.5's with the clearance of Cruiser diffs and you have NICE clearance.

The roll from the guy in our club after the broken axle can be attributed to a lot of factors, but after reviewing the tape, I would say the largest contributing factor was the persons time behind the wheel in like-situations.

One way to avoid axle separation is to get some rear disc brakes.

Originally posted by trd55
I know it won't be killer off the line but should get good milage and have a great crawl ratio even w/ the 3.73 (96:1 +/-). Don't know yet on the motor.

Actually, not only will acceleration and hill climbing suck, but your fuel economy will also. It's a myth that having "tall" gearing in the street makes the rig more economical. Basically, you are operating out of the optimal "power band" of the motor. I would strongly recommend you at least swap to 4.10's - FWIW, 4.56's will get you back to effective stock street gearing. I have 32's on my FJ62, and noticed the difference right away (as soon as these "free tires" wear out I am stepping back down to 31's). I have friends who put 33's on their FJ60's and felt their performance/economy suffer, then put 4.56's on and see a vast improvement. HTH Andy

PS as for the original Q - stick with the stock rear axle shafts - as Nolen said, they are plenty strong.

Nolen, thanks for the help. I agree with you about the wheel and tire combinations. Where would you recommend sourcing a 15x10" wheel w/2"backspacing? Also, I plan to run 4.88s in the diffs, where would be the best place to source some strong gears. I know of a few different suppliers, but have never heard any recommendations. Thanks again for the help.

Originally posted by muddogbob
Where would you recommend sourcing a 15x10" wheel w/2"backspacing?

Check Rockstomper, I'm going to get my Rock Crawlers from them - 15X8 w/ 2" bs. I can't remember the price, but its on their website and reasonable priced!!

'Bout $150 a piece for the beadlocks from Rockstomper...

Echo, what Nolen said. Got great service from Rockstomper http://www.rockstomper.com/index.html I'm running the unlocked Series 84's (15x10 with 2.5" backspacing. The 38" TSL/SX's sit out just right. Quite a bit more stable than before when I had my 33" BFG's. On the subject of gears; what is yaws recomendation on gearing mine. She's really struggling in 4hi to get up some fairly easy climbs. I do drive her daily to and from work and small outings. Would like to be able to get to 55-65 comfortably. Oh yea, I am running the stock 4 speed.

Originally posted by KrustyKruiser


Actually, not only will acceleration and hill climbing suck, but your fuel economy will also. It's a myth that having "tall" gearing in the street makes the rig more economical. Basically, you are operating out of the optimal "power band" of the motor. I would strongly recommend you at least swap to 4.10's - FWIW, 4.56's will get you back to effective stock street gearing. I have 32's on my FJ62, and noticed the difference right away (as soon as these "free tires" wear out I am stepping back down to 31's). I have friends who put 33's on their FJ60's and felt their performance/economy suffer, then put 4.56's on and see a vast improvement. HTH Andy

PS as for the original Q - stick with the stock rear axle shafts - as Nolen said, they are plenty strong.

What is the optimal power band on the 2F?? If I have read corectly in my manuals, the max torque produced is at 1800 rpms. Would that not be the power band?? Am I missing something here?? Please help with any insite. This is just my convoluted thinking. In trying to keep the 2F out of the high rpms, I calculated this setup to be arond 2600 rpms+/- (its been a while since I did the calcs. Could be off some). This is better than 3500 rpms to achieve 70mph for the highway. Right???