how much do they run?

What if one was to weld or lock the slip into place somehow, then get a slip built into the stock rear driveline?

60$ for the slip added to the stock driveline
and maybe 30$ in parts/materials to hold the stock slip into place of the rear xfr out...

Why not? :)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SMART ASS
[B]

Ok i admit it, "sometimes" im a DUMB ASS

[QUOTE]


Nuff said



Yes they are worth it

Adam,

FIRST OFF LEARN UBB FUK HEAD... THEN LEARN ENGLISH... THEN USE FACTS YOUR STATEMENT MEANS BS 2 ME

I MAY BE A SMART ASS, I MAY BE A DUMB ASS, BUT IM NOT HERE TO WASTE MY TIME OR YOURS


Originally posted by Adam Ant
[QUOTE]Originally posted by SMART ASS
[B]

Ok i admit it, "sometimes" im a DUMB ASS

[QUOTE]


Nuff said



Yes they are worth it

Adam,

you wanted opinions ??



My opinion don''t skimp! on the important stuff.




and what facts do you want or wanna see!

Adam,

What i mean is, support your statement, with facts and examples...

Originally posted by Adam Ant
you wanted opinions ??



My opinion don''t skimp! on the important stuff


Adam,

slip is hard to repair why try and re- invent the wheel??


CV's And Standard yokes work

I rather have something that is more common than some backyard brew in certain area's somtimes Simple is key!

Adam,

:p there ya go :) now was that so hard? :D

The only reason i ask this question is because im a cheap ass, i dont make that much $$$ and i like making my own home brew stuff ..


Originally posted by Adam Ant
slip is hard to repair why try and re- invent the wheel??


CV's And Standard yokes work

I rather have something that is more common than some backyard brew in certain area's somtimes Simple is key!

Adam,

Nope, they're a waste of time and money, thats why so many people have them :rolleyes: I find it interesting you cant take smart assed answers to what amounts to a pretty JU question ;)

Assuming we are talking about an NP231 on a SWB, if you get a "real" SYE, you will gain a heavy duty 32-spline output shaft. This is good because the stock one has been known to bend. Also, you lose about 4" in tcase length. This helps with vibes due to the already too short rear DS.

-Bart

Does a bear shit in the woods? Yes they're worth it do you want your stock driveshaft falling out on your lifted? Jeep? It is lifted right?:flipoff2:

1ST OFF, HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF SARCASM ? ;)

2ND - THE GUYS AT JU DONT EVEN KNOW HOW TO FABRICATE A PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY SANDWICH ;)


Originally posted by mike
Nope, they're a waste of time and money, thats why so many people have them I find it interesting you cant take smart assed answers to what amounts to a pretty JU question ;)

Originally posted by bart
Assuming we are talking about an NP231 on a SWB, if you get a "real" SYE, you will gain a heavy duty 32-spline output shaft. This is good because the stock one has been known to bend. Also, you lose about 4" in tcase length. This helps with vibes due to the already too short rear DS.

-Bart

COOL, FACTS AND EXAMPLES :) THANX!

Originally posted by SMART ASS
1ST OFF, HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF SARCASM ? ;)

2ND - THE GUYS AT JU DONT EVEN KNOW HOW TO FABRICATE A PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY SANDWICH ;)




But they also know that a SYE is worth the money

Originally posted by Mo


But they also know that a SYE is worth the money

yeah, and they dont shout everything either.

WHAT?!?!?!?!:flipoff2: I CANT HEAR YOU!?!!?!

Originally posted by mike


yeah, and they dont shout everything either.

I don't really know why, but I think I like mine.

Yea there worth it and then some.
I have one of the original kits, I'm using the 4to1 and a short shaft kit.
Before I had it: My 3" lift over speed bumps would bind the slip yolk and was cracking the U-Joint strap bolts. The next time I'd romp on it - the drive shaft would bust free and slam into the muffeler. If.... I could stop in time, I'd get to watch the Transfer case dump all the fluid. Replaced the back cover 3 times and the main case shell once. This sucks when your 120 miles from home just getting on a freeway.

I like your idea. I too like to fab my own stuff. If I remember right the short shaft kit will also save something like 3" and ran about $500, but you will still need a drive shaft (w/CV).
My concerns would be 1) the angle 2) How short the shaft would be w/ a CV --would you have any length for the longer splines once you added the CV?-- and 3) vibration.
Concidering moving the rear axle further back??

Anyway... Best of luck.

wow, this post didnt turn out as I had hoped...

I wanted to konw if anyone sells a fixed yoke, just a yoke by itself without all the SYE components. I have the seal my YJ needs and now I just need to get, you guessed it, a yoke. I think the local machine shop can modify the shaft the same way currie or anyother SYE producing shop does. I wonder if it would cost me more than the TJ RE SYE kit? im running 38's with an auto and if it can handle 6 months of somewhat hardcore use, id be happy. I wanna go D300 later on, but just need to get this $hit running.

just a thought, np208's have fixed rear outputs. could I steal the yoke off that? does anyone know if the diameter of the shaft and spline count happen to be the same?(doubt it)

Yeah keep smokin that crack bud :flipoff2:

Originally posted by thenodnarb
wow, this post didnt turn out as I had hoped...

I wanted to konw if anyone sells a fixed yoke, just a yoke by itself without all the SYE components. I have the seal my YJ needs and now I just need to get, you guessed it, a yoke. I think the local machine shop can modify the shaft the same way currie or anyother SYE producing shop does. I wonder if it would cost me more than the TJ RE SYE kit? im running 38's with an auto and if it can handle 6 months of somewhat hardcore use, id be happy. I wanna go D300 later on, but just need to get this $hit running.

just a thought, np208's have fixed rear outputs. could I steal the yoke off that? does anyone know if the diameter of the shaft and spline count happen to be the same?(doubt it)

Hey Smart Ass,
just met Adam Ant this weekend. He helped me rebuild my front end. The guy is a professional mechanic and his Jeep is a work of fuckin art! He knows his shit, nuff said

:smokin: :smokin: :smokin:

There are whole gear driven units you can get cheaper then some of these kits.

Get an RE whack and tap or a case that is worth something.

You can get good D300s for $150 all day long, another $100 for the clocking ring and you build your own linkage. Now for about $100 less then an AA SYE you have a stouter case thats shorter still and twin stick capability. :cool:

This isn't meant to be smart ass, but who sells the clocking ring for $100? I thought they were like $600. I'll have to look into that more if that is the case. Besides the fact you now have lubrication problems running your transfercase upside down. If you flip it to driver side like all the NP231s are. The poster was looking for a inexpensive solution, and swapping front axles to use a passenger side drop transfer case is not one.

Ben

Originally posted by jeepboyben
This isn't meant to be smart ass, but who sells the clocking ring for $100? I thought they were like $600. I'll have to look into that more if that is the case. Besides the fact you now have lubrication problems running your transfercase upside down. If you flip it to driver side like all the NP231s are. The poster was looking for a inexpensive solution, and swapping front axles to use a passenger side drop transfer case is not one.

Ben

Sorry $155

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_153.htm

And D300s are gear drive with a slinger, that means no pump.
The slinger doesn't care which direction it throws the lube.

Just a question that maybe Adam or someone could answer.

Drivers side drop Waggys have a case (247?) with an extremely similar tail cone to a 231. They are fixed yoke. I haven't had a chance to pull one for fun and check the internals yet. The case itself looks longer then a 231 but I have not measured. I vaguely remember hearing the internals of this waggy case (drivers drop, 1980s, unsure of #) were very similar to the 231. Is this a parts swap possibility? Anyone have any light to shed on this before I waste a day pulling stuff apart at the pic 'n pull to check?

Do the clocking rings allow you to completly flip the case to a passenger side drop? I thought that required a different kit? Maybe that is what I'm thinking costs the $$$

Ben

Originally posted by bigdude
Just a question that maybe Adam or someone could answer.

Drivers side drop Waggys have a case (247?) with an extremely similar tail cone to a 231. They are fixed yoke. I haven't had a chance to pull one for fun and check the internals yet. The case itself looks longer then a 231 but I have not measured. I vaguely remember hearing the internals of this waggy case (drivers drop, 1980s, unsure of #) were very similar to the 231. Is this a parts swap possibility? Anyone have any light to shed on this before I waste a day pulling stuff apart at the pic 'n pull to check?

Nobody?????

Fawk guess it'll be a weekend project to investigate if a swap is possible to gain the fixed yoke. If it is I'll be selling these things :D

Originally posted by bigdude
Drivers side drop Waggys have a case (247?) with an extremely similar tail cone to a 231.

I believe the t-case you're talking about is the NP 229, but I could be wrong. And sorry, I don't have any light to shed.

I'm making my own homemade sye, using a companion flange from spicer or currie, you can cut down your own shaft, drill and tap it, then have your tailcone machined, and get the magic seal from national seal or BCA, and throw it all together... if anyone wants specifics, shoot me an email

Originally posted by Fullreversal
I'm making my own homemade sye, using a companion flange from spicer or currie, you can cut down your own shaft, drill and tap it, then have your tailcone machined, and get the magic seal from national seal or BCA, and throw it all together... if anyone wants specifics, shoot me an email

You should post up about it, I'm sure people would be interested.

We're trying to figure it out and have a 32 spline output (like from the 241) similar to my AA one. After finding the tailcone similarity and the shaft info I belive we can piece it togther for ~$140 and get a 32 spline output. Don't really know if it's worth it though since AA sells their kits at a cost of about $189 to distributing 4x4 shops (friend owns the shop and that's why I run the AA SYE).

Any updates on your progress?



Originally posted by Fullreversal
I'm making my own homemade sye, using a companion flange from spicer or currie, you can cut down your own shaft, drill and tap it, then have your tailcone machined, and get the magic seal from national seal or BCA, and throw it all together... if anyone wants specifics, shoot me an email

Originally posted by bigdude
Just a question that maybe Adam or someone could answer.

Drivers side drop Waggys have a case (247?) with an extremely similar tail cone to a 231. They are fixed yoke. I haven't had a chance to pull one for fun and check the internals yet. The case itself looks longer then a 231 but I have not measured. I vaguely remember hearing the internals of this waggy case (drivers drop, 1980s, unsure of #) were very similar to the 231. Is this a parts swap possibility? Anyone have any light to shed on this before I waste a day pulling stuff apart at the pic 'n pull to check?

Like tuckster said, it's the np228/229 transfer case, both selectable full tim units (one has a center diff, the other has a viscous coupling.

You can find them in full size wagoneers (the 229) and in XJ Wagoneers and cherokees from 84-86 (usually with auto and 2.8L V6)

the yoke that comes on them won't work with a double cardan shaft, so you'll have to find a different yoke to use the DC joint, plus, the tailcone on them is rather long (about an inch longer than the stock 231 tailcone) the shafts will not interchange, and about the only thing it's good for is finding that "magic seal" to fit a companion flange on the 231/242.

Originally posted by 1337j33px0r


Like tuckster said, it's the np228/229 transfer case, both selectable full tim units (one has a center diff, the other has a viscous coupling.

You can find them in full size wagoneers (the 229) and in XJ Wagoneers and cherokees from 84-86 (usually with auto and 2.8L V6)

the yoke that comes on them won't work with a double cardan shaft, so you'll have to find a different yoke to use the DC joint, plus, the tailcone on them is rather long (about an inch longer than the stock 231 tailcone) the shafts will not interchange, and about the only thing it's good for is finding that "magic seal" to fit a companion flange on the 231/242.

Glad I never gave that idea a secong thought :D

So you guys are saying that the 228 is not a slip yoke? I had not investigated it very far I just always assumed my NP228 had a slip yoke just like everything else. Also you're saying the 228 yoke will not accept a DC shaft. What if you you took off the flange of the DC and then mated that with the yoke. You would still have the DC and wouldn't have to change out the rear shaft. (not that there's that many people out there w/ 228's, I just happen to have 2 of them).

Tim

The 228 was the only stock XJ transfer case that had a fixed yoke from the factory. (i think they might have used the 229 in the XJ as well)

The 228 uses a single u-joint at both ends of the slip shaft. It has a yoke similar to that on your pinion (uses straps to hold the u-joint on)

You can probably find a yoke that will mount to a DC shaft, or a companion flange that will bolt on to the 228 (allowing the use of a DC shaft with a flange on it. Call around and give the spline count/diameter of the output shaft. the flange from a hack+tap will probably fit it, but i've never confirmed it.

either way, you've still got a long-ass transfer case. that has no part time 4-hi.

they are strong cases though, just weird.

i personally never liked that vacuum shit that controls it, it was always unreliable, and never seemed to work when i needed it to.

Post your findings though

Im gunna try and fabricate my own DC rear output yoke...

:D

Im a cheap bastard

But i like fabricating sheat

Originally posted by Fullreversal
I'm making my own homemade sye, using a companion flange from spicer or currie, you can cut down your own shaft, drill and tap it, then have your tailcone machined, and get the magic seal from national seal or BCA, and throw it all together... if anyone wants specifics, shoot me an email

I'm trying something like this myself. I've got a spare TJ ouput shaft and tail cone to experiment with. Since the TJ already has the seal and bearing retainer in the tail cone it should be easy. I just have to find a yoke to fit the output shaft. I'm thinking of turning the shaft down so I can thread it for a nut instead of drilling and tapping like the RE kit. Seems like a lot of those bend right where you drill the hole. Hopefully by not drilling it you eleminate another weak point. It's still pretty weak, but this way it's no weaker than stock.
Anyone have any idea what yoke will fit on the stock TJ rear output splines?

Here's some specs kruegdr <kruegdr@auburn.edu> sent me

and another

Originally posted by jeepboyben
Do the clocking rings allow you to completly flip the case to a passenger side drop? I thought that required a different kit? Maybe that is what I'm thinking costs the $$$

Ben
Wow dude, do a little research. Your $600 "clocking ring" is actually the D300 "flip kit" from downeast offroad, that takes the passenger side drop D300, and flips it to the drivers side so you can use it with you DS drop axle in a wrangler or anything else you put your mind to. a clocking ring clocks the t case up farther in order to allow you to run a flatter t case skid. :rolleyes: Do some research every now and again.
Scott

I know this has been discused several times. Has anyone found a yoke or flange that fits the splines of the TJ output shaft?

Originally posted by Randall Edge
I know this has been discused several times. Has anyone found a yoke or flange that fits the splines of the TJ output shaft?

Try a D35C pinion yoke.
whodat

Totally worth it. Call Novak adapters (877-602-1500) they are 249.00 There. That comes with everything including a 32 spline output and the yoke.

:laughing: HAHA been there tried that!

just barely too large

Originally posted by whodat


Try a D35C pinion yoke.
whodat

What part was too large? The splined shaft, or was the OD od of the yoke too large for the seal in the case?
whodat

Originally posted by whodat
What part was too large? The splined shaft, or was the OD od of the yoke too large for the seal in the case?
whodat I don't have a 35 yoke, but I did have an old 35 pinion gear. It looks like the OD of the splines is slightly larger on the 231 output shaft. I don't care about the seal on the yoke because I have a TJ tail cone and output shaft. The TJ has the seal on the shaft, not on the yoke.

Yes, SYEs are definitly worth it, but an ATLAS II is even more worth it:flipoff2: :flipoff2:


Hey Smart Ass, if you are really in a bind needing a 231 SYE, I have a complete case with a RE SYE, sitting in storage. Maybe we could work out something. I had been hoping to sell it, but I would be willing to work out a trade if you are interested.