I'm wondering what works for you.

In my 1450 I run a 5.0 HO efi. Mass air
Now when everything is properly working, I don't have a complaint at all. But when it gives me trouble, it seems one thing leads to another.

It seems at the track that diagnosing a problem with a carb would be easier/faster, than if running efi. Or at least for me.

I'm wondering if a carb holds up well in the rough stuff?

What brand/model carb is working for you?

And any secrets to getting a carb to not cut out?



OR...
would sticking with the efi be a benefit ?

Stick with the EFI


What kind of problems has it given you in the past? Finding the source of the problem can help you prevent it in the future. I'd rather thread in and plug a sensor, than to jack around with all the intricate mechanicals in a stupid carb anymore.

EFI should still get you down the road (albeit slowly) in 'limp' mode.

ive never had one issue with my EFI system, maybe something is wrong in yours? Stick with the EFI, carbs might be simpler, but they do not run as well. :smokin:

check all your grounds.

And any secrets to getting a carb to not cut out?



OR...
would sticking with the efi be a benefit ?


Yeah...leaving the carb in the box. You can make a carburetor survive on the rough stuff, but it's still not going to be as good as EFI. Furthermore, you would be spending at least the cost of replacing every sensor in a 5.0 MAF system to get an offroad carb.

I'm wondering what works for you.

In my 1450 I run a 5.0 HO efi. Mass air
Now when everything is properly working, I don't have a complaint at all. But when it gives me trouble, it seems one thing leads to another.

It seems at the track that diagnosing a problem with a carb would be easier/faster, than if running efi. Or at least for me.

I'm wondering if a carb holds up well in the rough stuff?

What brand/model carb is working for you?

And any secrets to getting a carb to not cut out?



OR...
would sticking with the efi be a benefit ?
just something to think about ... i cant think of a TT running EFI, but i could be wrong.

just something to think about ... i cant think of a TT running EFI, but i could be wrong.

I thought Lance said Pete has a "huge injection setup" in his, but he didn't know the brand?

just something to think about ... i cant think of a TT running EFI, but i could be wrong.

Carb's are very common, but I believe there are a few high end efi kits running.

FWIW I have some pos holley on my beater ford and it does every thing without issue.

I thought Lance said Pete has a "huge injection setup" in his, but he didn't know the brand?

You would be correct. Pre runner is carbed though.

Stick with the EFI


What kind of problems has it given you in the past? Finding the source of the problem can help you prevent it in the future. I'd rather thread in and plug a sensor, than to jack around with all the intricate mechanicals in a stupid carb anymore.

EFI should still get you down the road (albeit slowly) in 'limp' mode.

Problems are :
High idle
inconsistent idle
power loss at high rpm
running rich


Prolly just a ground, but could be a bad voltage reading as well.
Not to excited about chasing the prob.

just something to think about ... i cant think of a TT running EFI, but i could be wrong.


That is an excellent point
and most of the efi systems being run in racers are exotic aftermarket stuff, that I can't afford :)

What about cost versus horsepower too?
Thoughts?


It seems to me that I may be able to pull out a few more horses on a cheaper level using a carb, than if I were to try and gain that same horsepower via EFI (reprogram, larger injectors, ~trick flow/GT40 intake, AFM, etc....)

Problems are :
High idle idle air control valve
inconsistent idle idle air control valve
power loss at high rpm try an adjustable fuel pressure regulator
running rich o2 sensor?



Dont know how much time have you spent troubleshooting it, but heres some ideas if you decide to keep the injection

A buddy runs a ford 2.9 in his desert truck and picked up some speed at high rpm with the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. He runs his truck at above 5k most of the time in the desert and said it really helped it out.

FWIW this same guy is going to a carb when he puts a 302 in his ranger...

Dont know how much time have you spent troubleshooting it, but heres some ideas if you decide to keep the injection

A buddy runs a ford 2.9 in his desert truck and picked up some speed at high rpm with the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. He runs his truck at above 5k most of the time in the desert and said it really helped it out.

FWIW this same guy is going to a carb when he puts a 302 in his ranger...


Thanks! and some great info!

Thing that gets me is, I have retuned my TPS at least 3 times. I have cleaned my idle air control with carb cleaner and a qtip at least twice, it works for a while then back to high idle and power loss
I have not switched out my stock nonadjustable fuel pressure reg, but will give an adjustable a try.

But with all this, it explains why I started looking at a carb swap..........................

I often drive a truck with a mass air 5.8L. You need to clean everything after every trip, particularly if you have a oiled airfilter. Lots of maintenance on the dezert truck.

Thanks! and some great info!

Thing that gets me is, I have retuned my TPS at least 3 times. I have cleaned my idle air control with carb cleaner and a qtip at least twice, it works for a while then back to high idle and power loss
I have not switched out my stock nonadjustable fuel pressure reg, but will give an adjustable a try.

But with all this, it explains why I started looking at a carb swap..........................

If this was an EFI conversion, you may have something a bit more major that you've overlooked in the wiring. I've done conversions and never had a problem with them, but I've also worked on some other people's vehicles with EFI conversions that were a disaster.

It could even be something as simple as cleaning the MAF as Beat95YJ eludes to. I've seen more and more issues with this even on road cars with K&N style filters in the last few years. I can only imagine what it would be like trying to keep an MAF clean in a desert application.

I often drive a truck with a mass air 5.8L. You need to clean everything after every trip, particularly if you have a oiled airfilter. Lots of maintenance on the dezert truck.

MAF and an oil'd airfilter is a no-no.

try a good paper filter.

Problems are :
High idle: TPS
inconsistent idle MAF, TPS, EGR controller
power loss at high rpm MAF
running rich MAF, Coolant temp sensor


Prolly just a ground, but could be a bad voltage reading as well.
Not to excited about chasing the prob.


Sounds like a MAF sensor and possibly a TPS sensor. Is your EGR working properly?

one thing to think about is a lot of people pick up 40+ hp at the crank when they switch from the stock EFI manifold on the 5.0 mustangs to an aftermarket carb system just because of the shape of the intake. Even the really nice ones from trick flow dont flow as well as your basic dual plane. If you're in it from a price point Id go for the carb. that being said the ford FI from those years is about the most well known FI system in the world. EEC-IV is really tunable and not at all complicated

For desert racing I will take EFI any day. Carbs are a PITA and cannot react or provide the driveability EFI can. Factor in all the changes in temp, humidity, altitude and terrain and EFI wins hands down. And the driveabiliy (especailly over the rough) is so much better.

I often drive a truck with a mass air 5.8L. You need to clean everything after every trip, particularly if you have a oiled airfilter. Lots of maintenance on the dezert truck.

I think you hit the nail on the head, with the mentioning of the airfilter.

I don't know exactly what my prob ended up being because I just ended up tearing it down to lower intake and cleaning out everything along with replacing the TPS and I put on a adjustable Fuel pressure reg while I was there.
But I can't beleive how much my airfilter was letting by.

I really think it was mostly my idle air control, as the build up on it was again pretty bad.


Time for a paper filter!

Sounds like a MAF sensor and possibly a TPS sensor. Is your EGR working properly?

Thanks, but no EGR.
I plated it off.

Are there any paper filters that have the K&N cone style to them?

I don't have much room for a airfilter and and the cone style fit perfect.