Ok looking for ideas on how to get the broken stud out of my housing. I have center punched the stud and drilled a 5/16 hole all the way through the stud and tried an easy out, but I did not what to bust that off inside the stud ( FYI every easy out I've used, I have broken inside the bolt or stud:mad3:) Since I used lock-tight on the stud, I also heated it up with an oxy/acetylene torch to help break the bond. I let it soak in PB blaster overnight.

Ideas: (1) Get a larger easy out and try that. ( never had any luck with easy-out)
(2) Drill hole out to 3/8 and weld in a 3/8 grade 8 bolt and see if it will come out. Not an easy task as the stud is recessed about 1/4 inch. But thinking of using the TIG welder and turning up the argon flow and pushing the tip out 3/4" to reach in there.
(3) heat it up and apply wax hoping to wick some down along the threads to lubricate it.

edit, (4) left handed tap and left handed bolt..

I would definitely use a larger easyout than that. There has been a lot of discussion on bolt removal. I can't remember offhand, but there are some other extraction tools that are supposed to be better than the spiral shaped ones. Oh, use left handed drill bits. If nothing else, keep going up in size till you start breaking through the threads then pick/dremel the rest out.

I'd try #3 and #1. Get as much lube on it as you can, apply heat, then try the larger EZ-out. I've never had much luck with welding to get studs out but then again I've only got a MIG.

Looks like there isn't enough wall thickness for a helicoil or larger sized bolt either.

When I shear'd the 9/16" steering studs on my d44 knuckles I had one of our CNC machinists work it over but that would be a pain to do with your whole axle.

My life was made easier after I got left hand thread drill bits!

I'm hoping Fastenal has left handed drill bits. Did not find them on there web site. They do have a 5/8" extractor bit. But found those bit can handle like 20 ft pound before snaping in half.

Edit... I did fine a lefthanded tap on e-bay that might work :)
http://imagehost.vendio.com/preview/ca/carbide4less/71614LH.jpg

Another vote for the lefty drill bits.

The only extractors I've had luck with are the snap-on ones. It's a different style than the generic hardware store type.

If you got the centerpunch and pilot hole fairly well centered, just keep upping the drill size a little at a time untill you see that you cut through or almost all the way through the stud without getting into the threads in the casting. You should now be left with just a thin shell left in the hole. Soak it down good with a GOOD penetrant (I use Open & Shut... blows the doors off of shit like PB Blaster). You should now be able to use a small chisel, etc. to fold the shell in on itself enough to break it free and get it out.

Patience is the key!

I was lucky when this happened twice on mine, they broke off near the surface. Welder and a large nut got both of em out.

This is another reason I mounted the ram on the drivers spring plate. Didn't want to put more stress on those Dynatrac studs.:flipoff2:

I was lucky when this happened twice on mine, they broke off near the surface. Welder and a large nut got both of em out.

This is another reason I mounted the ram on the drivers spring plate. Didn't want to put more stress on those Dynatrac studs.:flipoff2:

I'm thinking about switching the ram around too. But a mount off the tube. Those Dynatrac studs, are not grade 8 as they drilled easily, better the stud break'n vs the housing.

I've gotten a few out with the nut and welder trick before. I will look tonight and see if welding a 3/8 bolt in there is possiable. I think a 3/8 grade 8 will take 100lbs of torque. I would have to order any lefthanded taps or bolt stuff and the bigget drill bit fastenal had was 1/4" in a lefty.

What are you going to do with a LH tap? Better off with a larger easy out.

What are you going to do with a LH tap? Better off with a larger easy out.

I could left had tap the hole I drilled into the stud and put in a left hand bolt. Bottom out the threads and extract the stud with an impact gun. I'm skeerd of them easy outs. They are made of the same stuff taps are made of, and pop easy under the slightest pressure. Stud extractors are right up there with HF exhaust tubing expander. :flipoff2: The only way I would use one would be to first figure out the breaking point by extracting a nut clamped in the vise I would want to see how far the torque wrench would go first:evil:

I'll monkey with it tonight and post up

You should look into some stud extraction rod, I just used some on a budys steering arm. It welds like stainless, work it up in a small circle up and out , chip the slag, weld on a nut , let it cool and it comes out like butter. If its blow the surface the slag protecs the threads.

War Pony, find me a rod number :D
I worked on for a couple hours to night, could not drill it out anymore. Its like when I heated up the stud to bust the lock tight loose it harden the damm thing:mad3: I used a couple different bits with no luck. The TIG arc just bounce about in there, so thats a no go. I was thinking of pull the axle and putting it in a drill press. Not an easy feat, but do able.

Edit.. Looks like Harris Super Missleweld and MG-600 rod are listed for bolt/stud extraction. as they have a 120,000psi vs 7018 at 70,000
WarPony is going to hook me up with some rod.:smokin: I will coat the area I don't want the weld to stick with MIG tip splatter guard as a precaution. I called around and nobody has the Missleweld in stock.
Edit.. 2 Missleweld is similar to 312 SS rod.

Heating isn't what hardens it. Rapid cooling is what hardens it. Get it good and hot then slowly reduce heat, no oil, no compressed air, etc. What kind of torch are you using? I don't think a mapp gas torch will do much good. Put the oxy acetylene to it. Also, if you aren't using them already, it might me time for some cobalt bits. Oh, another thing, it might help if you took a large bit and drilled away the first thread or so. I've never done it, but I think it MAY help. If this is a bad idea hopefully somebody will say something. And how about a progress pic?

Heating isn't what hardens it. Rapid cooling is what hardens it.

DS me got it hot and then shot it with PB blaster:shaking: Since pulling the axle and putting it in the drill press to use carbide bits is a major pain. I'm going to try the welding buildup process. Since I got a hole in it that will help get good penetration into the stud without hitting the sides.

Heat the devil out of the iron. Oxy/acy torch.

Could be worse. I'm going to have to pull my front 60 out and have studs welded in place of the bolt holes. The holes were so rusty I had to drill them oversize but the treads aren't really holding very well.

Could be worse. I'm going to have to pull my front 60 out and have studs welded in place of the bolt holes. The holes were so rusty I had to drill them oversize but the treads aren't really holding very well.

Heli coil them then once assembled fill the holes with locktite penetrating grade to keep the rust out.

Heli coil them then once assembled fill the holes with locktite penetrating grade to keep the rust out.

I already drilled and tapped to 3/4 treads. Still didn't completely get all the rust. I'm still thinking about what to do next.

This is another reason why I generally use dana 60 fronts that use 4 u-bolts like they are supposed to :D

I use lefty bits stepping up as I go like Mechanos mentioned. I use an extractor set called Super-Outs and LOVE em!! Never had to remove a 5/8"dutchman" with em yet, but the largest of the set should be up to the task.

After using the Super-Outs for about 10 years I threw out the coffee can full of the four sided tapered ones. Still have all the super-outs from the set and they are probly 15 plus years old and they have been used/abused!!

FYI If ya do break off a eezy out (sp) you can heat the busted piece with a oxy/acetylene torch till it just starts to melt then just tap the oxy handle an it will usually disappear. This trick usually makes the bolt harder.

As mentioned above, heat and patience are your two most valueable tools!!

Lisle LIS62900 Super Out Extractor Set

http://www.toolfetch.com/media/93264.jpg?utm_source=&utm_medium=GS&utm_campaign=toolfetch&cm_ite=

Wish ya luck!!!

I use lefty bits stepping up as I go like Mechanos mentioned. I use an extractor set called Super-Outs and LOVE em!! Never had to remove a 5/8"dutchman" with em yet, but the largest of the set should be up to the task.

After using the Super-Outs for about 10 years I threw out the coffee can full of the four sided tapered ones. Still have all the super-outs from the set and they are probably 15 plus years old and they have been used/abused!!

FYI If ya do break off a eezy out (sp) you can heat the busted piece with a oxy/acetylene torch till it just starts to melt then just tap the oxy handle an it will usually disappear. This trick usually makes the bolt harder.

As mentioned above, heat and patience are your two most valuable tools!!

Lisle LIS62900 Super Out Extractor Set

http://www.toolfetch.com/media/93264.jpg?utm_source=&utm_medium=GS&utm_campaign=toolfetch&cm_ite=

Wish ya luck!!!

Those look different. As for the oxy/acetylene trick. Be there, done that on a busted tap. It does blow it out, but it mixes with the base metal and makes it a lot harder to tap it. I heard about somebody adding a 3rd hole to the housing. I will need to call or PM them to get details. Blind Driver, I would check into using some NI rod to fill in the holes and re-tap to 5/8 I'm sure your no the first to run into this issue.

No progress, but I did get the instruction sheet and a some "special" rod from War Pony (Thanks) :smokin: I will post up pic later. You put a washer over the hole and feed the rod straight down through the washer to the stud below, and weld in a small circle building the "tower" up and above the washer. Clean off the nasty slag, he warned me it looks ugly, but the slag is what protects the threads. Then put the washer back on and weld a nut to the tower. The washer creates a stable base to turn the nut on once everything as cooled to touch.

OK what happend!! My first movie :flipoff2:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWS2J6QtVbM

badass, you did a good job man! glad it can be done.

:smokin:

Nice work! now if it only took 4:19 like the video.....

Nice work! now if it only took 4:19 like the video.....

Thanks guys.

I'm going to edit the video take out some welding time and add some before and after still shots so you can see what I was doing. I took 19 minutes of video, but a lot of that time was just walking back and forth to get a nut, washer or adjust the welder as I turned it up when I burn'ed the nut on. It took a lot longer to jacking up the Scout and pulling the leaf spring than the welding for sure.

Had to have been a good feeling seeing it start comeing out!

P.S., I messed up a mic torque wrench doing that.

Had to have been a good feeling seeing it start coming out!

P.S., I messed up a mic torque wrench doing that.

That's funny watching the video, I never heard the clicking of the torque wrench when using it. I had it set to 80 ft lbs too. I used it because it has the longest handle:shaking: my breaker bar is shorter.

Notice where I lifted the socket off, I thought for sure the nut was just cracking off with all those crunching noises. I did not clean the slag around the stud to keep any welding away when welding the nut on.

Found the PDF's on-line for those who what to read a bit more. I'm thinking you could use the 312 rod in a pinch too.

Stud removal procedures
http://www2.cronatronwelding.com/cronatron/main.nsf/Resources/pdf/$File/WE17-1_studpulling.pdf

Their custom electrode
http://www2.cronatronwelding.com/cronatron/main.nsf/Resources/pdf/$File/WE17_cronaweld333.pdf

Info on 312 electrode
http://www.ktindustries.net/welect.html

Hey R290, Just got back from camping. Nice video, glad it worked for you.:D

nice job:smokin:
dan (war pony), didnt mention that he was at loon lake this weekend , ...where i broke the same stud in my dana 60:laughing:.....we were wishing for some of that rod but a large EZ out with some persuation did the job. it was rusted , and was fightin the whole way....i put a bolt in its place and wheeled the rest of the weekend......
trevor (wfo) said a third stud in the middle is the trick, i'll be doin that this weekend:flipoff2:.......by the way r290, is that a dodge or gm 60? the gm has a larger stud in it.

nice job:smokin:
dan (war pony), didnt mention that he was at loon lake this weekend , ...where i broke the same stud in my dana 60:laughing:.....we were wishing for some of that rod but a large EZ out with some persuation did the job. it was rusted , and was fightin the whole way....i put a bolt in its place and wheeled the rest of the weekend......
trevor (wfo) said a third stud in the middle is the trick, i'll be doin that this weekend:flipoff2:.......by the way r290, is that a dodge or gm 60? the gm has a larger stud in it.

He told me he was going camping last week when I was at his place. I also pick up some 312 stainless rod to use as a back up for doing this. The 312 is like 120,000 psi rod which is real close to the 333 rod Dan gave me. I have a GM D60 with Dynatrac 5/8 studs. I did some searching here but have not found much on drilling a third hole. Glad to hear the easyout worked for you:smokin:

Check on the idea of having a bolt/tube that mounts to the diff cover, a new U-bolt plate would have to be fabbed up. I've seen it before but cant find the pic:shaking:

Fuck yeah...

Check on the idea of having a bolt/tube that mounts to the diff cover, a new U-bolt plate would have to be fabbed up. I've seen it before but cant find the pic:shaking:

That sounds easier than drilling and tapping cast iron. I've had the drill bit drift off to one side before in cast iron. Not an axle but some machinery.
What is your spring width up front. My 44044 are 2 1/2" , the stock GM are 3" springs I had some spacer tacked in there, but the weld did not hold and it was missing. That could have aggravated the issue too. I need to make a install a new spacer that won't fall out:homer:

What is your spring width up front. My 44044 are 2 1/2" , the stock GM are 3" springs I had some spacer tacked in there, but the weld did not hold and it was missing. That could have aggravated the issue too. I need to make a install a new spacer that won't fall out:homer:

I'm using Superlift 6" front Chevy springs, they are only 2 1/2" wide. Yup, I made a small spacer to go in between the springs and the cast to help keep em from fanning out.:grinpimp:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/scout254/P7230148.jpg

I'm using Superlift 6" front Chevy springs, they are only 2 1/2" wide. Yup, I made a small spacer to go in between the springs and the cast to help keep em from fanning out.:grinpimp:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/scout254/P7230148.jpg

I attached the spacer to the U-bolt plate - the weld held for years before I went to a different axle/etc.

hope this is the cure:D did it today

incase you were wondering the bumpstop fits just right between all the hardware on the spring pad:flipoff2: