At the end of August my 109 will finally be dragged away to have the anemic 2.25 removed and a cummins 3.4 liter 6 installed with an NP transmission and a rover ashcroft upgraded T case. Yee-haw!

I will be adding onboard air (eventually I will be ARB locked). I will be keeping the diffs as is, with the rover up front and a salisbury rear. If money will allow, I hope to ARB lock the rear, but we will see. Timm Cooper will be doing the real man stuff and I will be doing the wussy Newbie stuff like putting the fenders and tub back on, and finishing the re-wire (Painless 12 circuit harness). Timm will be running the harness through the frame rail and wiring the engine up to run. I am planning on power outlets at the tuffy box and at the rear, as well as back up lights and a rear work light and power at the rear for an extra heater. Also plan an extra circuit for some more light up front. I think the alternator is 120 amp.

Any suggestions (other than to Fawk Off, Newbie!) on other circuits I might want? Also suggestions on gauges would be good too. What is useful to have by way of guages with a diesel? I know I want a tach, but what else other than the usual water, amps, oil pressure and speedo? What's a good compromise for a bran name for gauges? I don't need premium but I don't want crap either.

I already have the rig on parabolics, with three leaf fronts and OME shocks. The frame is excellent. Axle upgrade up front, winch mount/bumper and offset rims and new tires will have to wait for more $$$.

The T pieces and firewall and pretty much all the steel bits I can remove are going to be galvanized.

Anything else I might want to do or ask Timm to do while I have the frame exposed and the tub off?

I have four young kids, so gonzo rockcrawling trips are kind of out for now, but I'd like to do that some day - so I want to do this work with that in mind.

Please don't take this as a wannabe BS post: The project is finally actually happening - I finally have the $$ (been planning and saving for about 2 years!), the front end is torn down and the old engine and tub will be out within the next week or so. You can still fawk with me, but I would like meaningful advice - along the lines of might as well do it while you have the rig apart....

Or, you can just hassle me. I can take it!:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Simon

Originally posted by Simon
Timm will be running the harness through the frame rail and wiring the engine up to run.

Simon

Don't do it!

Early Scouts were done this way and it sucks. Imposable to add or repair circuits . You will have no chance of fixing or modifying the frame with welding as well.

Is it Turbo? a boost gauge would be a must if it is. EGT is a a must have for any Diesel. We used ISSPRO in my buddy's TD Scout. They make nice stuff!

http://www.issproinc.com/Home/index.html

Hmmmm. Good point. Thanks.

Fawk off Newbie!!!:flipoff2:

Actually his truck is happening. I'm watching it happen every day, it's gonna be SUUUHHHWEEEEET!

I am going to agree with Old Scout, don't run the harness thru the frame.

I saw your rear door frame all stripped and clean yesterday. I'm guessing that'll be galv'd? Nice.

If you get to the shop take a look in my space at my guages, I have some VDO stuff, and a sweet 4-way marine guage.

Not cheap, but I'll share my pricing with you if you want.

BTW, the 145's going on a flatbed on Monday. I paid for the box and it's DONE!!!!!! Yeeeehawwww! :eek: :flipoff2:

Thanks Mike and Old Scout. It pays to ask questions, eh... I'll have the wire run outside the frame rail. I'll take a look at the VDO stuff you have. Are you offering to sell some extras you have or just offering to let me take a look at the gauges you have? I appreciate the offer to give me the price break you get on them.

Yes, those middle door frames will be galvy'd. If I could, I'd do the front doors and the rear door and hood frames too, but those will have to wait until "manana." The middle doors are aftermarkets and were so cheap the U channel of the window frame was not closed by the flat strapping that closes the mouth of the U - on the outside of the frame! So I had to do that.... Anyway, once galvy'd they last nicely. Still came out to less expense than the genuine doors...

If you have some time on your hands while you are at the shop, you could pull the engine for me!:flipoff2:

Simon