Gonna disc the 14B.

Plan to use 77 K20 Chev 3/4 ton front rotors and calipers.

Now - the brackets from AAMFG - do I need the "large" or "small" GM bracket?

I'm assuming small, as the 3/4 ton caliper is the same part as the 1/2 ton caliper, and that would have to be "small" wouldn;t it.

Presumably the 1 ton caliper is the large (or maybe some car thing??)

Cheers

nope I am pretty sure you need the large as in large sedan. the small is from their midsize cars.

1/2 and 3/4 ton are 'large' the S10 and early 80s eldorodo are small

I just got mine from them ashort time ago.
Like Scout Dude said,they are aprox 7" hole to hole, and I am using 1/2 Ton(and /orI guess 3/4 Ton) Chevy Calipers.

Just had to take a little notch out of the brackets for the calpiers I have, not sure if they are all exactly the same otheriwse they work great.

I radiused out the ones made for 3" axle tubes to around 85 mm as recall as the 44 I am disking gets bigger at the ends.

Heres a pic just for silly, they are just mocked up until I set up the axle under the heep, then I'll burn em on in the proper place.

HTH

MJ

When I did my 14B, the large size was still to small. The spread on the mounting bolts for the calipers was correct but height of the bracket was a little short. I had to weld an extension on to the bracket.

I must have either gotten rotors that were a little larger or they shipped the wrong brackets. But it still works.

They have the same ones with no radius cut out of them...those may be helpful if thats the case with the 14b.

MJ

Originally posted by Maine Jeepah
Heres a pic just for silly, they are just mocked up until I set up the axle under the heep, then I'll burn em on in the proper place.


I've heard it's helpful to mount the caliper so the bleed hole is at the proper location for bleeding ... FWIW ...

- jack

Originally posted by Maine Jeepah
They have the same ones with no radius cut out of them...those may be helpful if thats the case with the 14b.

MJ



If you value your time, spend the extra dough for the bolt on ones. I have some of the ones that you're looking at buying. I didn't like them because it was going to take a while to get them in the "perfect" position.... SO, I ordered bolt on ones.

The easy way out I know, but it was worth the time savings. It's going to save me bucu time AND frustration. I bought mine from "Derbinator" on the CoK5 list if you're interested. After looking at several kits, I went with his because he uses a solid spacer instead of the four separate pieces.

Good luck with the setup. You're going to love it!

~dso

Originally posted by morpheus


I've heard it's helpful to mount the caliper so the bleed hole is at the proper location for bleeding ... FWIW ...

- jack

Yes...They will be at aproximately 10 and 2 oclock respectively once I have the pinion angle all set up...as eluded to in my quote.

Thanks.

MJ:flipoff2:

I imagine the A&A brackets didn't work perfectly on your 14 bolt disc swap (using 3/4 ton rotors) because A&A is a stock car fab shop that probably makes stuff that fits car axles with car rotors.

I used the radiused brackets on my 14 bolt disc swap, they work fine, small area to fill weld. and they took all of maybe five minutes to place on the tube properly.....personally I feel the bolt on ones are a waste (nothing against the guys making them), since these A&A ones cost a whopping $6.70 each.

I may be worng (its hard to say :flipoff2: ) here, but I don't think I could have even used the bolt on style. If I did, it would have had one hell of a spacer to line evrything up. I am running the cab & chasis dually and the drum bracket seemed like it was way inboard of its present position.

Besides, when I did this, I had just bought my welder and need something to practice on. Wanna go for a ride? :D

Shoot...thanks for setting me straight guys! never though about the "car size"...duh!

I can't use bolt on - nothing to bolt to (stock flanges removed)

Plus I have a rule - never bolt anything you can weld :flipoff2:

Charly - so you used #AA-049-A, like this: http://www.aa-mfg.com/catalog/partslists/AA-049-A-desc.htm


What size is the 14B tube anyway...yea, I know - but it's not arriving till tomorrow and I'm so excited I won;t sleep so I gotta stay up all night planning stuff!!

Yep, that's what I used.

And the 14 Bolt's tubes are 3.5"

www.RockEquipment.com also has them. He has a bunch of cool shiat.

~dso

Thanks Charly....hope you're ready to GET IT!!

DavidO - sure, but they are the exact same thing for 3X the price !!!!!!!!

Fawk that :mad:

I am ready.

I will finish welding the axle bracket for my anti-wrap bar tomorrow, then Brett and I are going for a test run.

Originally posted by BillaVista
DavidO - sure, but they are the exact same thing for 3X the price !!!!!!!!

Fawk that :mad:


Actually they're 5x as much and they're NOT the same. But it's only $80 difference. Even if it only takes me an hour and materials to get it done, I'm still ahead. Plus I can reuse them on a different one if necessary. Why, I don't know. I'll probably never buy another one. But it could happen. It brings the conversion up from $180 to $260, what's the big deal? I can make that money back easily by staying in the office a little extra.

It's no biggie.

~dso

PS - I'm talking about buying bolt on ones. I only paid $7 - $8 for my weld on ones.

I happened to notice when I was out searching the junkyards the late 70's El Caminos also have the same calipers... the 1/2 & 3/4 tons type calipers. Use brand new pads when you fit yer calipers up with brackets attatched, otherwise you could get uneven brake wear possibly burning out yer bearings & losing a wheel. I used an alternator belt to space the caliper bolts away from the top of the rotor. Hope that helps! ;)

BTW I did this on my D60 & got my brackets from Speedway motors & those didnt reach to the tube. Had to make a spacer too.

David,

Sorry - wasn;t meaning the bolt on. i agree, for some bolt on is a better choice, and prob worth the$$, just not to me.

I was comparing the straight weld on brackets - AA are $6, those others $19 and they sure as hell look exactly the same to me.

If 180 vice 260 is nothing for you - good for you....it's a hell of a lot to me!!

Charly...BRING IT!!

Red - thanks for the tips !

Bill I just did this last week on my 14 bolt with the AA brackets.

I orderd the radius one's and the flat ones since they were only like 6 bucks. The radiused ones for 3 inch tube won't work with out adding material......
The easiest way I found for the set up was put on the rotor. Tighten the lock rings. Then mount the plate to the caliper with new pads and then slide the caliper onto the rotor and see what the clearence is. I scribed the line, cut it, then tack welded it all in place. I also added some 3/8 plate around the tube since the 1/4 brackets seem a little light.

FYI I needed a new drop brake hose.. and I went searching in the yard.. Rear drop hose on Dodge vans are about 22 inchs long. and 2 bucks in the yard.

ItsaCJ6,

so, did you end up doing that with the radiused brackets or the flat cut ones?

Thanks

Bill

I went ahead and used the radiused brackets. I did that because I was going to beef up the attachment anyways. I think the flat ones are the better units if you have the time to cut the new radius. and trust the 1/4 plate butt welded to the tube

The 3 inch radius brackets sat down on the 3.5 tube at the perfect location but with only the outside tips touching the tube.


I also drove the rig today for the first time (not on my tires though) and feel that the calipers should be on top instead in back. I will change mine if my wheel tire combo doesn't cover more of the caliper, than it currentlydoes with the 16 x 7.5's.

Hi All,

Here's some pics of the kit that I bought compared to the original weld on ones that I ordered...

http://offroadrepublic.com/fj40/chapter6/disc_brake_brackets_compare_size2.jpg

http://offroadrepublic.com/fj40/chapter6/disc_brake_brackets_compare_thickness.jpg

Billa V

one thing im wondering about, as I have the same 049-a weld on radiused brackets from AA ( my rear is a HDamc20 tho)

the plate is 1/4 maybe 3/16, and the floating bolts for the caliper screws into that, it catches approx 4 threads only

is that strong enough ?

or maybe need to weld some nuts on teh back to have more thread engagement?

im still in teh mocking stage of my rear axle.

The A&A brackets are 1/4", and mine are holding up fine on my 14 bolt. Honestly, it is the least of my concerns.

didnt some guy with a 14B have his brackets rip of the axle? i thought it was on this board but hell i dont know

Hey Charly,

if you say its strong I trust your opinon, it just seems like the weak point to me( the floating pins screwing into teh aa brackets), a buddy who is a mech Eng also told me it was strong enough, so it must be OK.

then the welded joint is the weak link, but I know if thats done correctly it wont give.

Here is a picture of a bracket from www.speedwaymotors.com (http://). It is another option in the disc brake venture.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/eCCStoreFront/smi/product_images//Full/91641005.jpg


I used the aa mfg. on my eaton and am not worried in the least of its strength.

Originally posted by DavidO
Hi All,

Here's some pics of the kit that I bought compared to the original weld on ones that I ordered...

Those brackets just bolt up to the flange where the drum backing plate used to be??? Where's the kit from???

It's all on my site:

http://offroadrepublic.com/fj40/chapter6/

Brian Derby (Derbinator on the CK5 board)


~dso

I'm curious, why not use the stock Chev caliper mounting plates that bolt to the axle flange.???

What are they stock from, a new model pickup?

The one I thinking of would be from a mid to late 70's 1/2 ton, two wheel drive, front wheel. Might even take a look at same years 3/4 ton. I not familiam with the 14b so I may be way off, but I know the can be made to work on a D60

When I welded on my AA radiused brackets onto my 14bolt, I assembled everything, caliper, bracket and pads, but them in place and applied about 20psi air to the caliper via the banjo bolt hole (If I remember right its 3/8 thread, I center drilled a piece of all-thread and attached a hole to one end)... The air pressure clamped downd the caliper and I could get it just perfect for tack welding... I ended up using some 3/4" blocks to raise and space the bracket away from the flange....

When I was shopping the bolt on brackets where $100 a pair -vs-$13 for the AA ones...

What hoses from what application are you guys using with these calipers? the 1/2 ton 3/4 ton large bracket ones....

Tim shaker makes some on this board for a 14 bolt

Use these hoses NAPA#4136797. They are short. :beer: