Pictures are here (http://microtech.com/bob/index.asp?root=%2Fbob%2FSAS%2FSquare+Driveshaft)

I'm wondering if that looks good and strong to everyone else. And, as you can see, I burned out the seal on that one u-joint. Is that going to cause a problem besides having grease go everywhere? Assuming I keep it well lubed.

Looks good to me.
What did you weld it with?

looks alright? hope you got good penetration! or they will blow everywhere!

stick welder! or wireflux core? <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

A lincoln wire feeder with flux core wire. 110v version.

I'm pretty new to welding so I think in a few places I went too fast. But it did survive my take it over your head and bash the yoke into the ground test. For whatever that's worth. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

110V <IMG SRC="smilies/puke.gif" border="0"> I hope you prepaired the weld joint by grinding a nice V and then made a few passes. Never the less I don't think it will ever break.

if i was you. i would grind it off and grind a \/ then make a couple of passes. and crank it up dude. we use 440 Volt machines at school and get some sweet penetration! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

and if you you like 7014 wire it'll be really strong!

I used the lincoln 125 110v version. I didnt prep mine and only made one pass. I have hammerd down pretty good on it and it has worked fine. Its alot stronger then I thought it would be. There is only one way to see if its strong enough or not. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Well, the maiden voyage will be somewhere close to paved roads anyway. I guess I'll just wait and see! <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0">

http://microtech.com/bob/SAS/Square%20Driveshaft/all%20done.JPG

Sweet idea dude! I have seen this one other time in Petersen's. Beats the crap out of paying $$$ to have a shaft lengthened

Well, it surely wasn't my idea originally; just a way to get this thing on the trail sometime this year (I'm a starving student). I do enough driving in the snow that if this shaft won't take me faster than 15-20mph without mad wobble I'll probably fork over money for a new one.

Well, it probably won't, but on the trail it should work just fine.

Good work. <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

It should work fine, Ive seen several square shafts on trucks on the Rubicon. You cant go to fast since it is unbalanced naturally.

Gotta say I love the " put it over the head and bash it on the grond" trick. Thats just <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">

Invest in some Argon mix and a bottle. he only way to weld.

Hey Bobo, what size/thickness tubing did you use, i am going to do the same thing with for my front d-shaft, as a temperary solution till i have the $$$$ to order a Hi-angle shaft.
thanks bud,
later

So Bob, is this front driveshaft going to a Dana 44? Just wondering because I'm going to be making the same thing in a month here. I'm just in the middle of making the Dana 44 right now.

http://microtech.com/bob/SAS/Square%20Driveshaft/all%20done.JPG

Originally posted by TANKOMA:
<STRONG>Hey Bobo, what size/thickness tubing did you use, i am going to do the same thing with for my front d-shaft, as a temperary solution till i have the $$$$ to order a Hi-angle shaft.
thanks bud,
later</STRONG>

I called up my local steel yard and said "I want 2' of female receiver and 3' of male." The receiver tubing is the plain old square, seamless 2" ID stuff and the male is 2" OD. I think both are 1/4" wall.

The dana donor yoke was from the rear of an old ford with a dana 44. I think it will fit. The other donor yoke was from my stock tacoma shaft. The tacoma yoke was much harder to weld. It seems it is much thicker and was a lot harder to get penetration on with my mini welder.

Originally posted by liveaxle:
<STRONG>So Bob, is this front driveshaft going to a Dana 44? Just wondering because I'm going to be making the same thing in a month here. I'm just in the middle of making the Dana 44 right now.

http://microtech.com/bob/SAS/Square%20Driveshaft/all%20done.JPG </STRONG>

Sure is. From a toyota t-case to a dana 44 up front.

why did you leave the used toilet paper in the pic

ok this might seems stupid but why are u using the reciever stock?

You mean as opposed to other 2" ID tubing? Because it's seamless and therefore lets the other piece slide in there all fine and dandy. Plain old 2" ID tubing won't let the other piece slide in without some filing.

I thought that looked a little like TP after I posted. Oh well. It's actually the grease that boiled and poured out of the ujoint.

Originally posted by SweetCJ7:
<STRONG>Invest in some Argon mix and a bottle. he only way to weld.</STRONG>

That makes for some pretty welds but if you want penetration you need to go with flux core on a mig.

Thats some cool shit man...now its time to redo the ENTIRE DRIVELINE SQUARED!!!!!

should work fine,your not desert raceing.A shock boot would keep the dirt out. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">