AthlonAJ
07-26-2002, 06:17 PM
Did a little search already, but that's ok I have my nomex on. My 89 XJ with the D30 and vac disconnect has the 260 rice krispie u-joints. They gotta go. If I had the $$$ laying around I would just buy the upgraded axles with the 297x joints but I don't. SO....after comparing part numbers it looks like if I bought a driver's side axleshaft (u-joint and outer included) from a 96 XJ and a passenger side axleshaft out of a 95 YJ, I'd be upgrading to the 297x joints on both sides and it would be a bolt up deal no modifications. Right?
Also what is the difference between the YJ axle shafts, ABS and non-ABS? I see they had two different ones listed but noticed only one hub part number listed so what is the difference?
BillaVista
07-27-2002, 04:31 PM
Sounds reasonable...I don't *think* there are any issues with the older hubs (presumably re-using yours) on the newer stubs..but check into this.
You want the 95 YJ with ABS shaft - that will guarantee the 297 joint.
JEEPRZ
07-27-2002, 05:48 PM
I think eithr Randys or DTD offer a inner axle, stub, and Ujoint combo for $130 or so, per side. I dont think your gonna find anything new cheaper than that
JEEP_TJ_FREAK
07-28-2002, 06:49 AM
You can also swap in TJ parts on the driver's side, they are alot easier to find.
You can reuse your hubs with the later shafts but the newer hubs are a little beefier. If you deside to swap hubs too you will need to swap to later rotors as well. Keep in mind there are 3 different hub/rotor setups so if you start pulling them make sure you have they same units side to side.
Stephen Morrison
07-28-2002, 10:27 AM
I have a TJ axel in the drivers side of my 88 Cherokee and have never blown that ujoint. I have extra passanger axle assemblies so I have not had to buy an upgrade for that side yet.
CheapXJ
07-29-2002, 01:21 AM
since you're doing it to an 89, you'll need to swap the spindles as well, the newer style rotors on the new bearing hubs with the old spindles will sit approx. 1/8" into the caliper bracket. (you bolt the wheels on, they don't turn) you can grind them down, but it's a pain in the ass.
you could also run 1/8" hardened washers behind the rotors on each stud. go to the hardware store with a micrometer, and make sure they're all the same thickness, otherwise you'll get nasty vibes. (trust me i KNOW!)