No, I will not swap in a manual :flipoff2:

Earlier this week, I had the 2nd gear soleniod and governer pressure sensor switch replaced in the 47RE in my 02 dodge. I have 89K on the truck with the original trans. When I picked it up from the dealer the tech told me that it had quite a bit of metal on the magnet and that I will need a trans soon, which I was expecting because of the chip and towing.

Now the question is who do I go to for a new trans? My father is the writer at the dealer I take it to, so I can get a factory reman installed for real cheap. However, I'd like to go with something stronger since I tow on hills a lot, and would like to be able add more power to the truck some day without worrying about the trans again.

What are my options? DTT? Goerand? ATS? Any others? Not looking to go broke here, but I plan on keeping this truck for a long time and would like to do the trans once.

Ive heard nothing but good things about Goerend Bros. stuff. Great warranty, and a good guy to deal with.

x2...honestly, any of those would be a good pick.

Are you hard on the truck?

A new TC and a valve body on a new stocker, could be the ticket...cheaper too.

I was in the same boat you are in now a few years ago. I investigated and researched DTT, Suncoast, ATS and Goerend. Now I don't like to spend hard earned money any more than the next guy, but like you I only wanted to do this once. In the end, I chose a full DTT towing trans. Bill K. has a slightly different "style" that may turn some people off when they talk to him, but if you listen to what he has to say and answer his "interview" questions honestly, you will get a trans that is right for your intended use. The trans/TC/VB combo will be matched to the intended use.

Keep in mind that any of these are performance parts. Like any performance part, it has an intended use. If you tell them to build you a towing trans but on the weekends you want to run down the drag strip, you probably won't be happy. The combo for racing is different than the combo for towing.

I've had my DTT for 2 yrs. and have about 45,000 miles on it and am perfectly satisfied. The only issue I have is accelerated u-joint wear, but that's not the trans' fault... it's still doing exactly what I spec'd it to do.

x2...honestly, any of those would be a good pick.

Are you hard on the truck?

A new TC and a valve body on a new stocker, could be the ticket...cheaper too.

Not as hard as some but yes I am hard on it. I have nowhere to rebuild the trans myself and paying someone to rebuild it will probably costs a ton since it needs more than a TC and a VB.

Right now it's looking like Goerend or ATS.

Chris,

Looking around CumminsForum last night at people rebuilding thier trans and NOBODY liked ATS, it was Goerend or SunCoast they chose.

I have a suncoast full billet and I love it. I've raced with it a lot and it held up perfectly. Haven't towed with it yet but will be in the near future so we'll see how it does. The only thing I've heard is that the suncoast customer service isn't the best but I haven't dealt with them personally so I wouldn't know about it.

My Goerend may have cost me $5300 but it was worth every penny. Pulls my 14.5k 5er easier than the stock trans pulled my car trailer with a car on it.

I only have about 1000 miles on it, but I had a smile on my face the entire time. :laughing:

If you do some research on the Dodge Cummins forums you will see that ATS tranny's suck ass. Do not waste your hard earned money on an overpriced POS tranny.

They advertise a warranty but good luck with getting it fixed. Their tranny's are generic and shipped out on a pallet, no custom tuning, no VB adjustments like you get with the other guys. Just a $5,000 purple tranny that a shop installs and then your on your own.

Go with or look into HTS, DTT, Gorend, or Suncoast.

X eleventy on a goerend. heard nothing but good things about those guys

Goerands....you dont need any billet shafts for your power level so the tranny will only be about $3500 maybe less. Trust me you will be happy and if not Dave Goerand will make it right.

When my buddy got his full built tranny, we had Dave on the phone on a saturday night for 2 hours helping us adjust and tune the valve body to his particular truck.

Goerands....you dont need any billet shafts for your power level so the tranny will only be about $3500 maybe less. Trust me you will be happy and if not Dave Goerand will make it right.

When my buddy got his full built tranny, we had Dave on the phone on a saturday night for 2 hours helping us adjust and tune the valve body to his particular truck.

It will be right at $3500 with shipping. But if you read their webpage it's not only HP levels but weight towed. Dave told me to put in the billet parts because I was towing over 14k. My truck only has 275 RV injectors and a comp box. The last thing you want to do is break an input and have to remove the trans again. You could save some $$$ by only doing the input. But let's face it, who's not going to add some other mods on because they now have a trans that can hold the mods. :laughing: That's why I even went with the billet flywheel.

The ONLY time ive seen/heard of a stock input shafts breaking is during a boosted launch's.

If your not going to be doing 20psi 4wd boosted launches then you dont need billet. Billet would be way overkill on a near stock 24v w/ comp box and RV injectors, but if you got the $$$$ to throw around then sure go for it because boosted launches are fucking awsome!!!

When I picked up my truck(2001 CTD) it had a new tranny installed so I ordered a tripple disc converter and valve body from Goerend. I think it was around $1800.00 to the door.
it wasn't too bad of a job swapping everything in the driveway using a motorcycle jack. A lift would have been a bit nicer though.
I noticed a pretty good change between stock and the upgrade.
Goerend is a good group to work with

i am running Goerend
and love it.....

Built mine myself last year. It was a PITA but I got it done and it runs pretty good. I wound up spending about 2 grand just in parts, but that included a billet input shaft and a good t/c. I would probably go different t/c next time, but it works pretty good for all around use. The valve body is the most important piece second to the t/c. If you are stock engine with only slight mods you want to do your research before you buy the trans.

There are a lot of tricks to these trannies, but they can be built pretty stout and last a long time. They will never be as good as a manual trans, but you don't have to spend 4K and swap half the truck around either. Besides, having an auto has advantages when you use the truck for more than just work. They absolutely rock in sand compared to a cummins with a stick.

Built mine myself last year. It was a PITA but I got it done and it runs pretty good. I wound up spending about 2 grand just in parts, but that included a billet input shaft and a good t/c. I would probably go different t/c next time, but it works pretty good for all around use. The valve body is the most important piece second to the t/c. If you are stock engine with only slight mods you want to do your research before you buy the trans.

There are a lot of tricks to these trannies, but they can be built pretty stout and last a long time. They will never be as good as a manual trans, but you don't have to spend 4K and swap half the truck around either. Besides, having an auto has advantages when you use the truck for more than just work. They absolutely rock in sand compared to a cummins with a stick.

Psh...I've got over 4k into mine and I pulled/rebuilt/installed it myself. :barf: You're right...what a pita.

I went with dtt for my vb and tc, and as was said...they build it all to your specs and what you want to use it for. Bill kondolay does do things differently, but the man knows diesel transmissions. From all I've heard, you can't go wrong with goerend either. I wouldn't consider ats at all.

PITA to rebuild a torqueflite? I thought they were easy. The PITA is getting it in and out of the truck. But then again, I'm lazy and like working on stuff on a workbench. :flipoff2:

The nice thing about building the tranny yourself is that you know what went into it, you learn how they work, and you'll get a lot more trick parts for your money than if you paid someone else to build it. I honestly don't see building it yourself as being a cheaper option since you'll probably build it beefier than what you would get from a shop. It will probably cost about the same amount of money.

FWIW, I've got ~$2k into mine, but most of that was for a goerend converter.

PITA to rebuild a torqueflite? I thought they were easy. The PITA is getting it in and out of the truck. But then again, I'm lazy and like working on stuff on a workbench. :flipoff2:



That includes the removal/install pita.:flipoff2: Even moving it around and working on it sucks. It's one heavy fawking trans. Very sharp as well.:D

Another guy running Goerend here. I got a full billet unit with billet flexplate and TC as well. Sure is nice not having to worry about the tranny pretty much ever. Pretty insane warranty as well. I found them to be honest, and when I asked about certain upgrades, they shot the shit straight and didn't upsell me on stuff that wouldnt make a difference in my application.

Well it's time. Got a flatbed ride home from the lake Saturday night, atf all over the highway. I think the converter went but the fluid was pretty burnt so I'm just going to get the whole trans. I think I'm going to order from Goerand and get the billet shafts because if all goes well I'll be towing 2 rigs next season.

:laughing:

Gonna have it back together for Rock Run?

It'll be back together asap as I hate driving my dad's spare car everywhere :flipoff2:

edit: I bet Timmy's blows up next

The ONLY time ive seen/heard of a stock input shafts breaking is during a boosted launch's.

If your not going to be doing 20psi 4wd boosted launches then you dont need billet. Billet would be way overkill on a near stock 24v w/ comp box and RV injectors, but if you got the $$$$ to throw around then sure go for it because boosted launches are fucking awsome!!!


I have 3 of my company dodges that all broke or had fractures in the stock inputs with stock HP at or around 100k-140k miles. towing 10k -12k lbs regularly. no boosted launches. the one that had the fracture the TC went out and when disassembled there were cracks all through. no chips no mods just stock 1 12v and 2 24v trucks

anyone try NADP for transmission? sorry no tech to add.

[QUOTE=chris demartini;8726433]It'll be back together asap as I hate driving my dad's spare car everywhere :flipoff2:



That corsica has style :smokin:

True but it does not have sattelite radio, I'm starting to loose my mind.

Ordered the trans from Goerend yesterday, sacked up for the billet input shaft. Hey, it's only money, right? :shaking:

True but it does not have sattelite radio, I'm starting to loose my mind.

Ordered the trans from Goerend yesterday, sacked up for the billet input shaft. Hey, it's only money, right? :shaking:

you doing the work yourself?

It looks like I will be. I'd love to just drop it off at the dealer, go fishing, pick it up that evening and go peel out but I can't afford that luxury.

Have fun with the trans crossmember. I had to take a 60" highlift with a come-a-long to spread the frame rails so I could get it out. On the install, I bought a hydraulic ram from Harbor Freight. I had to spread the rails almost 2" to get the crossmember back in...

Do yourself a HUGE favor and take the flexplate out and match it to the t/c before you install the trans. I didn't, and it took me 6 hours to get 5 bolts in the t/c. The bolt pattern was about 1/32 larger around on the flexplate. Had to run a tap into the holes to cut the flywheel holes out enough to get a bolt started.

By the 3rd bolt, I was ready to torch the truck....

Put a new front seal in the t-case too. Took 3 days for mine to come from the east coast. Nobody within 1000 miles of me had one in stock, at least not at Napa, Kragen, Autozone, Dodge Dealers etc.

[QUOTE=WILLD420;8743991]Have fun with the trans crossmember. I had to take a 60" highlift with a come-a-long to spread the frame rails so I could get it out. On the install, I bought a hydraulic ram from Harbor Freight. I had to spread the rails almost 2" to get the crossmember back in...

Do yourself a HUGE favor and take the flexplate out and match it to the t/c before you install the trans. I didn't, and it took me 6 hours to get 5 bolts in the t/c. The bolt pattern was about 1/32 larger around on the flexplate. Had to run a tap into the holes to cut the flywheel holes out enough to get a bolt started.QUOTE]

I did the same with the high lift jack. It worked well but was a little scarry.
I had no problems with the flex plate. put all bolts in loose then go back through and tighten them.
I did buy the flywheel too and it made it easy to turn the engine over
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=sun-7471a.

I had to pull the tranny twice because of damaging the input (pump) seal.
The first time it was a 2 day project removing, installing the valve body and reinstall. Finding the seal leaking badly.
Second time it was 6 hours from driveshaft removal to install in the driveway
Good luck with the project

Have fun with the trans crossmember. I had to take a 60" highlift with a come-a-long to spread the frame rails so I could get it out. On the install, I bought a hydraulic ram from Harbor Freight. I had to spread the rails almost 2" to get the crossmember back in...

Do yourself a HUGE favor and take the flexplate out and match it to the t/c before you install the trans. I didn't, and it took me 6 hours to get 5 bolts in the t/c. The bolt pattern was about 1/32 larger around on the flexplate. Had to run a tap into the holes to cut the flywheel holes out enough to get a bolt started.

By the 3rd bolt, I was ready to torch the truck....

I didn't have any of those issues with mine. I had the tranny out, built it, and put it back in one long weekend.

Put a new front seal in the t-case too. Took 3 days for mine to come from the east coast. Nobody within 1000 miles of me had one in stock, at least not at Napa, Kragen, Autozone, Dodge Dealers etc.

Your parts stores must suck badly. Every parts store around here stocked the seals when I went looking for one.


The biggest pain with these trannys is their weight, although the E4ODs that I've worked on are just as heavy. Other than that, I don't think they are any harder to R+R than any other 4x4 tranny is.

Sucking badly is mild. When I lived in Vegas it was pretty bad. You would think with 2 million people living there the parts stores would have anything you could desire...

Now that I live by Reno, it's 10 times worse. Nobody stocks the things I need. I have to order everything besides oil and nuts/bolts. If Summitracing doesn't have it in stock, then I go to NAPA, then on down the list. I've tried calling ahead, but most of the parts counter guys up here are totally worthless. I have to take my part in, tell them which book to drag out of the shelf, since their computers rarely have the info, then page through it with them and find what I need.

I've only met 2 guys that know their butt from a hole in the ground, and they work at NAPA where a $2 seal is $18. If it was $5 or $6 I'd buy it, but 16 dollars markup over the store next door is b.s.

Glad your tranny went smooth. Mine flat sucked.

Parts are not a problem, I work down the street from Chrysler's eastern region offices and parts depot and can have anything I want by close of business same day. I will replace the front seal in the case thanks for the heads up.

OK got a big black crate from Goerend on Friday, taking this Friday off to install the trans. One thing I thought about is how do I clean out the cooler? Whatever fluid that's left is full of metal and clutch material and I don't want that circulating around my brand new $4,300 transmision.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG4980&N=700+115&autoview=sku

I have one that I plan on installing in line but haven't done it yet.
They use a standard Ford filter

OK got a big black crate from Goerend on Friday, taking this Friday off to install the trans. One thing I thought about is how do I clean out the cooler? Whatever fluid that's left is full of metal and clutch material and I don't want that circulating around my brand new $4,300 transmision.

Buy a new cooler. Flush the lines as best you can. I just blow low pressure air though them to clean them out. The cooler is a little hardsr and the rap seems to build up in them for some reason

One thing I thought about is how do I clean out the cooler? Whatever fluid that's left is full of metal and clutch material and I don't want that circulating around my brand new $4,300 transmision.

The parts stores around here sell aerosol cans of transmission cooler flusher. Basically you hook the can up and blow the crap out of there until the chemical comes out clean.

This is the method I used, but my transmission did not have any actual hard parts failures or metal that got sent through everything. I may have felt a bit different about using that method if the thrust washers in the converter or something else failed bad enough to turn the tranny oil grey.