14 bolt ID ff vs. sf and other stuff

[Fixmysix]

Sorry guys, somehow a Jeeper snuck in here, but if it is any consolation I'm going to use an all gm running gear. My first question is the 14 bolt thing. Nobody can seem to agree about which vehicles had ff and which had semi. So how do I ID the things. My other main question is about the tbi 350. I plan on rebuilding the motor before it goes in the jeep. I've heard good things about stroking to 383 so I may try that. I want to do as much of the rebuilding as I can. I've been looking for websites/books that will show me how to do that and all I find are books on building carbed street motors. My main goals with the engine are fuel economy and longevity. I want to build something that will get me to work daily, and also take a good beating on the trail and come home running like a champ.

Tranny/t-case will most likely be a 700r4/208 combo If that affects anything, or you have suggestions about those two things.

thank y'all for letting a jeeper in bowtie land.

[Bigger Valves]

14 bolt ff came in all kinds of things.. early 73-85 was the "early" model.. they're in both some 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.. '85 and up are a "later" style ff 14 bolt... they're simple simple simple to identify.. they're huge w/ 14 bolts and a cover shaped kinda like a dana.. not round like a 10 12 and sf 14 bolt.. if it's got 14 bolts and bolt in axle shafts then that's it... look at tim's page.. www.shakerbuilt.com.. click on 14 bolt.. that's all u need to know..


208's are ok.. chain driven and not as strong as 205.. but lower low range and it'll definately work.. it's whatever u want..

[SCOTTS_4X]

well, the 14bolt thing was pretty much covered so I'll go into the motor....383 is a good torquey motor. there are lots of things that need to be addressed when building a 350 into a 383. first off you need to have a smallblock 400 crank turned down, or buy a specialty 383 crank. second you need to have the block clearanced for the crank and rods. next you'll have to have shorter 400 rods so you don't push the pistons into the heads. now onto the fuel problems, your stock 350 tbi is not going to be able to keep up with a 383 so you'll have to look into larger injectors (if they are made? I am a carb guy myself). this should give you a good start on the motor side......I'm sure there is lots of stuff that I forgot...

[Derf00]

I just completed a 350 - 383 swap in my '90 Jimmy. I am not an engine builder, but decided that if i was going to invest in a engine, I wanted a good one. The engine was built by Sunset Racecraft of Lubbock, TX. It has a Scat rotating assembly, Vortec Heads, and a LT1 Cam, and is using the Edlebrock Multi-port fuel injection. The cam is computer friendly, the engine should be putting out 330-350 HP and 425 ft/lbs torque. The engine only has about 200 mi on it, but it is awsome comapired to the old 350, and it is apparent that the fuel mileage is quite a bit better than my 350 was getting.

I am running 4.56's w/37" SSR's.:D

[reddwarf]

Originally posted by slotoy
'85 and up are a "later" style ff 14 bolt... they're simple simple simple to identify.. they're huge w/ 14 bolts and a cover shaped kinda like a dana.. not round like a 10 12 and sf 14 bolt.. if it's got 14 bolts and bolt in axle shafts then that's it...

Huh?? ROUND?!:confused:

14 FF has 8 bolts that hold the axle shaft to the hub and a "diamond" shaped cover.

Also, a surefire way to ID the full floater (even from a Dana 70 floater) is to look where the pinion comes out of the housing. If you see 5 bolts holding on a removable plate around the pinion, it is a 14 bolt FF (full floater).

The FF has been around since 1973 and is still used in 1 tons and other trucks, including 3/4 ton Suburbans (at least in the 90's....)

[Fixmysix]

Thanks for the info on the 14 ff id. That will make my junkyard cruising much easier. I guess my biggest questions lie in the motor. Has anyone seen a book on the tbi system or on rebuilding 350's. I am pretty handy with a book, and am of the opinion that I should have turned every bolt on my rig before it hits the trail. Either a good book, or a helpful shop that will answer LOTS of my questions.

[Shaker]

Originally posted by Fixmysix
Thanks for the info on the 14 ff id. That will make my junkyard cruising much easier. I guess my biggest questions lie in the motor. Has anyone seen a book on the tbi system or on rebuilding 350's. I am pretty handy with a book, and am of the opinion that I should have turned every bolt on my rig before it hits the trail. Either a good book, or a helpful shop that will answer LOTS of my questions.

You might wanna contact any of your local "custom" engine builders and ask many questions......check the reputation also before you drop $$ for a motor rebuild. As for the "injection" upgrade for the 383 there is a company in Cali. called "Turbo city" they build custom injection setups.. ..I'm a carb guy and have built a few 383's look into www.summitracing.com & www.jegs.com for 383 engine parts they have good prices. Good Luck

[Bigger Valves]

Originally posted by reddwarf


Huh?? ROUND?!:confused:




read again.. i said round like 10 bolt, 12 bolt, and SF 14 bolt.. sf=semifloating.. sf 14 bolts have more rounded diff covers like 10's and 12's.. and don't look the same as a ff 14 bolt.. still confused?

[Bigger Valves]

Originally posted by reddwarf


Huh?? ROUND?!:confused:

14 FF has 8 bolts that hold the axle shaft to the hub and a "diamond" shaped cover.

Also, a surefire way to ID the full floater (even from a Dana 70 floater) is to look where the pinion comes out of the housing. If you see 5 bolts holding on a removable plate around the pinion, it is a 14 bolt FF (full floater).

The FF has been around since 1973 and is still used in 1 tons and other trucks, including 3/4 ton Suburbans (at least in the 90's....)


ok so my shit wasn't so clear when i read what u quoted the first time..

Originally posted by slotoy
'85 and up are a "later" style ff 14 bolt... they're simple simple simple to identify.. they're huge w/ 14 bolts and a cover shaped kinda like a dana.. not round like a 10 12 and sf 14 bolt.. if it's got 14 bolts and bolt in axle shafts then that's it...


now rewritten as this:
'85 and up are the later style ff 14 bolt.. all ff 14 bolts are simple simple simple to identify.. ff 14 bolts are huge w/ 14 bolts and a cover shaped kinda like a dana... not round like a 10 bolt, 12 bolt, or semifloating 14 bolt.. if it's got 14 bolts and bolt in axle shafts then it's a ff 14 bolt..



gee, hope that clears all up.. :rolleyes:

[reddwarf]

Yeah, that's better. :flipoff2: