any one have the torque specs for a 1993 7.3 turbo diesel? (yes its a factory turbo found behind the 7.3 with a manuel trans.) I was pretty supprised to see it in there myself. Im sure it isnt near what the psd has but would appreciate info. Did a surch with out much luck and oilburners site seams to be inop. thanks:D

I don't know what the specs are, but if it is anything like my 92' f250 with a banks turbo on it, it will smoke a stock psd. I have heard from others that the 93' fact turbo makes more power than the psd's.

Chris

To the best of my knowledge the 93 and early 94 IDI turbo motors were 190hp, 388 tq. Compare that to 210hp and 425 tq for the earliest PSDs. Havinng owned a 94 F350 IDI, factory turbo truck, I will say that it is a DOG stock. But get rid of the shitty downpipe with an ATS elbow and 3" DP, open exhaust and crank the pump up a little bit and it will be much improved, and probably would beat a stock PSD. However, a PSD with nothing but a chip will be miles ahead in terms of performance.

On edit, the factory turbo'd IDIs were said to be "detuned" from the factory, so they wouldnt over shadow the soon to be released PSD.

A 1993 7.3 liter IDI N/A was rated at.
180 HP at 3300 rpm's and 345 ft/lbs at 1400
Vin Code M

And in 1994 two options

7.3L N/A
185 HP at 3000 RPM and 360 ft/lbs at 1400
Vin Code F

Or

7.3L Turbo
190 HP at 3000rpms and 395 ft/lbs at 1400
Vin Code K

These figures are from the Standard Catalog of American Light Duty Trucks/3rd edition. Unfortunately it doesn't denote which character in the VIN denotes engine, just what it should be.

To the best of my knowledge the 93 and early 94 IDI turbo motors were 190hp, 388 tq. Compare that to 210hp and 425 tq for the earliest PSDs. Havinng owned a 94 F350 IDI, factory turbo truck, I will say that it is a DOG stock. But get rid of the shitty downpipe with an ATS elbow and 3" DP, open exhaust and crank the pump up a little bit and it will be much improved, and probably would beat a stock PSD. However, a PSD with nothing but a chip will be miles ahead in terms of performance.

On edit, the factory turbo'd IDIs were said to be "detuned" from the factory, so they wouldnt over shadow the soon to be released PSD.
How much for the down pipe and elbow and willthe factory turbo be good enough or will it nead replacing allso?

A 1993 7.3 liter IDI N/A was rated at.
180 HP at 3300 rpm's and 345 ft/lbs at 1400
Vin Code M

And in 1994 two options

7.3L N/A
185 HP at 3000 RPM and 360 ft/lbs at 1400
Vin Code F

Or

7.3L Turbo
190 HP at 3000rpms and 395 ft/lbs at 1400
Vin Code K

These figures are from the Standard Catalog of American Light Duty Trucks/3rd edition. Unfortunately it doesn't denote which character in the VIN denotes engine, just what it should be.Thanks for the help Diesel

How much for the down pipe and elbow and willthe factory turbo be good enough or will it nead replacing allso?

it'll be fine as a tow rig... unless you try to race your friends new diesel with mods... then you'll hate it :flipoff2: IIRC the factory idi turbo 7.3's did not have a CAC (innercooler), which means high egt's will be hit sooner than the psd 7.3 with a CAC. You can do mods to either and there is alot of info on the net. Try oilburners for the idi and powerstrokenation for the psd.

I dont remember the prices, it was a pretty long time ago that I had that truck. Check ATS for prices, I believe they are the only ones that sell the 3" exhaust outlet elbow you need. The factory turbo will be more than adequate for what you are going to be doing. The wastegate needs to be adjusted to hold about 13psi of boost, and the motor will live a long healthy life at that setting. (IIRC the factory setting is 5-7psi) The IDI motor has a pretty high compression ratio so pushing anymore boost than that starts to increase the chance of popping a headgasket or worse. EGTs will get hot so get a pyro and boost guage. I seemed to have a problem with water temps climbing during long heavy pulls, but this was going off of the factory dash water temp gauge. Get a real guage so you know what the motor is actually doing, maybe my radiator fins were dirty or the water pump was headed south.... who knows.

On edit, the most important thing to do is get some coolant test strips (available at any heavy truck repair place) and check the coolant. The 7.3 IDI motors were notorious for cavitation and if the previous owners didnt use the right coolant, its only a matter of time before you have a boat anchor under your hood. Its been a LONG time since I did anything with IDIs, but I believe it is the SCA level that you are concerned with. Dieselstop.com and oilburners.net are two great sites that will talk about this in detail. If the coolant is not right, or the SCAs are way out of whack, I would not buy the truck.

I dont remember the prices, it was a pretty long time ago that I had that truck. Check ATS for prices, I believe they are the only ones that sell the 3" exhaust outlet elbow you need. The factory turbo will be more than adequate for what you are going to be doing. The wastegate needs to be adjusted to hold about 13psi of boost, and the motor will live a long healthy life at that setting. (IIRC the factory setting is 5-7psi) The IDI motor has a pretty high compression ratio so pushing anymore boost than that starts to increase the chance of popping a headgasket or worse. EGTs will get hot so get a pyro and boost guage. I seemed to have a problem with water temps climbing during long heavy pulls, but this was going off of the factory dash water temp gauge. Get a real guage so you know what the motor is actually doing, maybe my radiator fins were dirty or the water pump was headed south.... who knows.

On edit, the most important thing to do is get some coolant test strips (available at any heavy truck repair place) and check the coolant. The 7.3 IDI motors were notorious for cavitation and if the previous owners didnt use the right coolant, its only a matter of time before you have a boat anchor under your hood. Its been a LONG time since I did anything with IDIs, but I believe it is the SCA level that you are concerned with. Dieselstop.com and oilburners.net are two great sites that will talk about this in detail. If the coolant is not right, or the SCAs are way out of whack, I would not buy the truck. To late. Picked her up yesterday eve for 5000 out the door.Sure hope I didnt screw up. When I first start the truck it Idles realy rough and has some exhaust smoke,but seams to clear out and run great after I drive it a little ways. Really hopeing its only a bad injector or something. Supposed to get it checked out at the ford dealership on tuesday. Ill probabley just drain the coolant and add the right stuff to avoid any probs with cavitation. Thanks for the great info.:D

A 1993 7.3 liter IDI N/A was rated at.
180 HP at 3300 rpm's and 345 ft/lbs at 1400
Vin Code M

And in 1994 two options

7.3L N/A
185 HP at 3000 RPM and 360 ft/lbs at 1400
Vin Code F

Or

7.3L Turbo
190 HP at 3000rpms and 395 ft/lbs at 1400
Vin Code K

These figures are from the Standard Catalog of American Light Duty Trucks/3rd edition. Unfortunately it doesn't denote which character in the VIN denotes engine, just what it should be.

The 8th digit is the engine code in the VIN. I just bought a 1994 type III ambulance and forget where I found the info. The cut off is somewhere around June 1994 for the IDIs. After June the engine code H was for the new PSDs. My ambulance is engine code M, its a NA 7.3 IDI. If I can swing it this winter I'm going to put an ATS kit on it. Dave S.

To late. Picked her up yesterday eve for 5000 out the door.Sure hope I didnt screw up. When I first start the truck it Idles realy rough and has some exhaust smoke,but seams to clear out and run great after I drive it a little ways. Really hopeing its only a bad injector or something. Supposed to get it checked out at the ford dealership on tuesday. Ill probabley just drain the coolant and add the right stuff to avoid any probs with cavitation. Thanks for the great info.:D


The rough running is probably from a bad glow plug. A fairly straight forward job on those trucks in terms of replacement, just make sure to use a Motorcraft/Beru replacement. The others have a bad tendency to expand when they get hot, and when you try and remove them to change them, the tip breaks off into the cylinder. Now that you've got the truck, might as well start reading through the IDI forums to learn what you can. It should make a good truck for you.

The rough running is probably from a bad glow plug. A fairly straight forward job on those trucks in terms of replacement, just make sure to use a Motorcraft/Beru replacement. The others have a bad tendency to expand when they get hot, and when you try and remove them to change them, the tip breaks off into the cylinder. Now that you've got the truck, might as well start reading through the IDI forums to learn what you can. It should make a good truck for you. Thanks TEXAS. Hope your right about the glower. Ill make sure to get the motorcraft replacement. Looks like Im towing the crawler up to Big Bear in two weaks so Ill get to see how well she gets up the mountain!! Thanks again

The 8th digit is the engine code in the VIN. I just bought a 1994 type III ambulance and forget where I found the info. The cut off is somewhere around June 1994 for the IDIs. After June the engine code H was for the new PSDs. My ambulance is engine code M, its a NA 7.3 IDI. If I can swing it this winter I'm going to put an ATS kit on it. Dave S.

Let me know how the ATS works out for you!:smokin: