I was at the local rental store today and noticed they had used aStihl 044 chainsaw for sale. It has a new 20" bar and chain. They want $250 for it. I almost offered $200 cash but decided to think about it first. Is that a reasonable price for a used saw in good condition? The guy at the counter said he was unsure how many hours were on it and they were replacing all their saws due to their age. He aslo said when they send their saws out, they also send 2 gallons of gas of the right mixture and the prpoer bar oil. Hopefully it hasn't been run lean.
What do you guys think? Jump on it or run away as fast as possible?

See how it runs, pay close attention to how it idles. runs good id give them $250.. Maybe bring a t27 torx and pop the muffler cover off and take a look at the piston...

Those are good little saws. Lot of people like them..

Cork is on the money ...


I'd bring a torx set and give the piston a look for sure, a 044 is arguably the best saw ever made.


I've owned a couple and have a hotrodded one now , flat out love it for fire wood.

Big saw for just a 20" bar, but it's a good price.

I payed $175? for my 029, and it's beat to shit. IT still runs great though. startring it is a bithc, unless you put a little gas on the air filter.

buy it sell the 20" and buy a 32" or 36" bar. I use my for just about everything with a 32" on it. Limbing with a longer bar is nice cuz you don't have to lean down. Just watch the tip of bar, if you aren't careful kickback can be a bitch. And buy some chansaw chaps if you don't have some already.

I have an 029 that I borrowed from work and will probably never return. It needs a little work but runs when I need it and does fine for ssmalll stuf. I am looking at the 044 for bigger stuff. So this saw will handle a bigger bar and not get bogged down? We just moved to a new house on 4.5 wooded acres with about 50 more surrounding that I can cut more wood from. I am looking into a a Hardy or similiar for heat and domestic haot water. This 044 would be the ticket if it is in good condition.

32 would be about perfect with that 044 :smokin:

I tihnk the 029 was destined to run a 16 or 18" bar. I would get a second saw, but right now they're stoo much $$$ :(

buy it sell the 20" and buy a 32" or 36" bar. I use my for just about everything with a 32" on it. Limbing with a longer bar is nice cuz you don't have to lean down. Just watch the tip of bar, if you aren't careful kickback can be a bitch. And buy some chansaw chaps if you don't have some already.

:eek:

Ya limbing is nice with a longer bar, but the rotational force on the saw can get ridiculous. Besides I like my toes!

I could see maybe a 24" bar or 26", but 3 feet of spinning chain is alot, and if you dont run one every day, they are heavy as all get out.

buy it sell the 20" and buy a 32" or 36" bar. I use my for just about everything with a 32" on it. Limbing with a longer bar is nice cuz you don't have to lean down. Just watch the tip of bar, if you aren't careful kickback can be a bitch. And buy some chansaw chaps if you don't have some already.


must have some god damned big trees in kansas. we rarely need a 3 foot bar, usually use 28"..

I have been cutting 32" average osage orange trees for firewood. My buddy has 1/2 mile hedgerow of them that we have been cutting for 2 years. Biggest i have ever cut was a 60" Burr Oak that is now 5/4 rough lumber. Built an indestructible bar out of some last fall. I don't remember how big the red oak my dad cut was but we had trouble getting first 10' skidded back to the barns. We were using a 450 dozer, and everybody knows how flat kansas is.
Here is a pic of the 4th 18" log of a hedge tree. This not normal size, for this type of tree, most are only 20"+ not 30"+
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/1584/hedgelogjx7.th.jpg (http://img329.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hedgelogjx7.jpg)
We normally only use the 32" bar, but wound my dad but a 36" bar when he was in to wood working and logging his own hardwood, at the young age of 58.

pro saws are good for 1500 hrs before they usually need anything. If pulling the muffler isn't possible have them check the compression for you

I have been cutting 32" average osage orange trees for firewood. My buddy has 1/2 mile hedgerow of them that we have been cutting for 2 years. Biggest i have ever cut was a 60" Burr Oak that is now 5/4 rough lumber. Built an indestructible bar out of some last fall. I don't remember how big the red oak my dad cut was but we had trouble getting first 10' skidded back to the barns. We were using a 450 dozer, and everybody knows how flat kansas is.
Here is a pic of the 4th 18" log of a hedge tree. This not normal size, for this type of tree, most are only 20"+ not 30"+
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/1584/hedgelogjx7.th.jpg (http://img329.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hedgelogjx7.jpg)
We normally only use the 32" bar, but wound my dad but a 36" bar when he was in to wood working and logging his own hardwood, at the young age of 58.

That stuff is just about the best firewood there is...

What should I look for if I pull the muffler? I mean for $250, how bad should the piston look before I walk away? What comp. would you guys consider acceptable?

Compression in the 155-160 psi. range and I've seen them run OK on 110-120 psi.

Anything below 130 psi. and your just not getting the kind of power you should for the weight your dragging around.

Pull the plug also to make cycling it over easier..


When you look thru the exhaust port look at the piston as it passes the window and see if it has ring land galling (sp?) or scratch marks on piston body. Also look for skirt wear from a loose piston.


When the piston goes to BDC look at the opposite wall for vertical scratches and port gouging from the piston cocking in the bore.

All this stuff can be from normal wear or improper fuel mix... but should be taken into account when offering a $$ for the saw!

Bad compression can also be caused by faulty crank case seals ...

I ran those saws for years doing residential tree work. Best thing I can tell you is inspect it carefully. Pull the intake and bar covers, check for any cracks in the case. Check the studs that hold the bar on, they should be original (not all fubared)

Check the anti-vibration bushings. They should be in good shape. If they are all bunged up or outright damaged some ijiot has been runing that saw. Check the handles, no bends or cracks.

Ask to start it up and run it through a large piece of wood. Make sure its sharp before you do this. Should pull nicely and not bog down/stall.

Whenever I bought a used saw I just looked them over real good, started them up and cut for a little bit. If it ran good I bought it. If it looked like some gorilla had been abusing it for years I walked.

If you pull the muffler look large carbon deposits/deep scores on side of piston/melting/burning. Thats the hot side of the piston/cylinder...it see's the most wear. Make sure someone didn't try to "port" it. Decent compression numbers run 150-170 lbs.

They are great saws and will handle everything but the largest tree. Good luck.