After hours of P4x4.com reading I decided it was time to beef up this 1/2 ton. I've been working on tis for a couple months so it's time to post.

Picked up an '83 Chevy Step a few months back. It has a healthy 350 matted to a TCI built TH350 and a NP208 Transfercase. On the first trip I found the carb likes to flood on bumpy trails and stall the motor :) Not good, especially on a steep decent!

Fixed that with needle springs and a hose connecting each vent tube.

Motor has solid lifters (crowler),which I want to change to something simpler with less adjustments needed every few thousand miles. It’s more built for high RPM’s which is not very ideal for slow going, however it will be good for the dunes.

Trans and TQ are from TCI, auburn lockers, decent paint, yada yada. Also has a '91 suburban front clip on it.

Best thing is it was originally a diesel and with this motor I don't have to deal with smog!

Here it is on the trail behind Lake Elsinore in CA
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85174-1/IMG_1703.JPG

Few other shots:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85181-1/IMG_2219.JPG

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85191-1/IMG_2245.JPG

Bed:
Ripped out the rotted bed.
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85301-2/bed_rot.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85367-1/IMG_1732.JPG

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85370-1/IMG_1734.JPG

Pretty much finished here:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85377-1/IMG_1735.JPG

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85386-1/IMG_1739.JPG

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85380-1/IMG_1737.JPG

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85393-1/IMG_1740.JPG

Steps:
Had some steps built. Bought the main step section from a Toyota site and made our own mounts.
This is the drivers side:
img]http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85355-1/IMG_1733.JPG[/img]

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85335-1/IMG_1723.JPG

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85348-1/IMG_1726.JPG

At this point I was busy doing odds and ends. Fixing leaks, trying to fix fuel flow, trim (hack) (http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91159-1/IMG_1803.JPG) fenders, all new door seals/rubber etc etc.

After hours on Pirate 4x4 I decided to spend some money. Have plans for 1 ton axles with detroit lockers, cross over steering with hydro assist, new springs, bead locks, 39" tires, lots of fender trimming, autometer dash, AC, steps/sliders and a better interior.

Here's a few 'mini flex' pic's in ½ ton form just before the tear down. The best it can do with the sway bar.
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91193-1/Flex01.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91200-1/front_right.jpg

Got frame flex?
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91242-1/rear_left1.jpg


Finished up the other step and sent them to powder coat. They are now ready to be welded to the frame:
Drivers side slider finished but clamped on for now:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91245-1/IMG_1768.JPG

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91248-1/IMG_1769.JPG

Drivers side finished:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/85355-2/IMG_1733.JPG

Passenger side jig:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91254-1/IMG_1764.JPG

Passenger side ready to be fully welded:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91260-1/IMG_1773.JPG

Dana 60 strip down:
Original carrier:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91282-1/carrier_allsm.jpg

Here we are trying to get the carrier out of the Dana 60 front axle. Pry bars w/ a cheater on it would not budge it. Effer was tight!
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92189-1/redneck_prybarsm.jpg
Cleaning it all up, preping for paint:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91332-1/16_d60_cleansm.jpg

New carrier w/ Detroit locker and new Superior gears, compared to the old one on the left:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91338-1/10d60RPsm.jpg

New Detroit locker:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92157-1/D60detroit.jpg

Removing the kingpin w/ a 7/8" hex wrench:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92186-1/04kingpinsm.jpg

Old 1/2 ton axle removed:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91335-1/19_10B_outsm.jpg

Also got the rear 14 bolt FF axle torn down and getting it ready for rebuild. After removing and splitting the carrier I found I had the wrong carrier for the Detroit locker I was going to install. Seen here:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91296-1/30_28_14B_carrier_detroit2sm.jpg

Steering:
Next major item is the steering. Installed a new pump, steering box, reservoir, and lines. Once the front axle goes in I will install the ram from the front diff cover to the tie-rod on the cross-over steering.

Here's the original 4x4 box compared to the new 2WD box:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91301-1/box_compare.jpg

New vrs old pump:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91308-1/pump_compare.jpg

Getting the pulley off the old pump was a MF'in pain in the ass:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91311-1/pulley_pull.jpg

ORD Steering box brace:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91317-1/steering_brace.jpg

Resvior and mount I made. It's 1/2 done in this photo:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91326-1/rez_bracket.jpg

Steering cooler with room for new trans cooler:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91320-1/steering_cooler.jpg

One of the cooler lines:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/91323-1/cooler_line.jpg

Off-road Designs cross-over steering parts compared to stock:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92192-1/tierod_compare.jpg

Next will be the Dana 60 axle to go in and finish up the front then start on the rear.

Dana 60 finished and installed:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92160-1/d60_installed.jpg
Shock etc:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92163-1/shock.jpg
Spring bolts etc etc. After much debate I decided to install these 1” ‘zero rate sptings’
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92166-1/spring_mount.jpg
Tire mock-up
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92172-1/tiremock1.jpg
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92175-1/tiremock2.jpg
Steering Ram:
Mocked up the ram. Welded tabs onto the diff cover and made a redneck bracket:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92147-1/psc_ram.jpg
Super Thick Great Lakes Offroad diff cover:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92150-1/psc_diff_mount.jpg
Redneck clamp, which I will not be using. I have since had tabs welded onto the tie rod:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92153-1/psc_tierod_mount.jpg

Rear 14 bolt Full Floater axle:
This is the pinion gear with its’ 2 huge bearings. It also has a pilot bearing that goes on the end of it (not shown). This is what Mendeola needs to do for the 2D!! (Age old debate on the sand car transmission world)
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92178-1/14Bpinion_house.jpg
Here it is with a new carrier and the gears installed, ready for paint:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92181-1/14B_prepaint.jpg

As of now steering parts are at the powdercoater so I can diddle with other small stuff.
Need to figure out how to mount this under my bed assuming it won’t ruin it by running while on its’ side:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92210-1/compressor.jpg

Also mounted a front receiver for a Warn winch multi-mount. I will eventually install a rear receiver so I can use the winch in the rear as well.
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92196-1/front_receiver.jpg
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92200-1/front_receivermount.jpg
Winch Mount Plate:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92203-1/winch_multimount.jpg
Winch Mounted:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92206-1/winch_installed.jpg

That’s all for now. Once I get the steering part back and installed I will turn the truck around and start on the rear end and a new transfer case.

For a transfer case I finally decided to go with a LowMax set-up from www.jbconversions .com for the NP205. I will be buying a ford NP205 T-case and using some of it’s parts like the 32-spline output shafts and some other internals and installing it all with a few other misc parts into the new LowMax case. I will also be installing a twin sticks from ORD.

This truck was originally a long bed so I am in for a few fun surprises when I go to install the rear axle. One I noticed was the shocks. Both are currently mounted behined the axle and at a pretty extreme angle, so i will have to relocate those. I am sure there will be more surprises.
I still need 5 rims, trans cooler, winch wiring for the rear end, transfer case, drive shafts, D60 1350 yoke, possibly dual batteries, and I am sure more.

Build looks very good so far

Nice. Easy to see you are spending some money on this build.

Looking good. :beer:

Thats the same idea that I had for sliders. Use the nice toyota ones. I decided against it because the chevy frame to body width is alot narrower than the yotas. If you lay any real weight on those sliders I wouldnt be surprised if you tweak the frame...

I plan on connecting the frame at some point with a crossmember/skid plate for the transfer case.

Wow, love the truck you started out with. I always wanted a really clean stepside with a '90's grille on it just for a weekend cruising and curb-hopping. Kudos for building it for the trail.

Nice work, you ever get rid of the 14 bolt gov lock center section?

I ended u tading it for what I needed.
I do still have the front end carrier if anyone needs it.

Update: the front end is done, finally!

Will post pic's later.

Good looking build for sure. You're putting some great parts in to make what will be a pretty bullet-proof trail rig.

As far as the front and rear mount winch, well I had that setup on my K5 for 3-4 years and never moved it once. I had an 8274 in a homemade cradle and the thought of carrying 80-90 lbs from one end of the truck to the other while stuck in the mud/on a hill was kind of silly. So that, and the terrible approach angle made me remove the portable setup and tuck a nice big 16.5ti between the frame rails.

Good luck with the rest of the build. I hope you use the winch the way you think you will if you go through all the trouble of finishing the multi-mount and wiring.

I doubt I will use the winch much but will be nice to have incase I need it front or rear.

Front end is pretty much done. Hope the hydro hose run under the frame like I have them will be ok.
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92214-1/steering1.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92217-1/steering.jpg
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92220-1/hosemount.jpg
This is how I am holding the hoses up. On the engine cross member.
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92223-1/pscram.jpg
PSC ram
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92226-1/diffcover.jpg
Finaly got the trans cooler and installed it:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92229-1/transcooler.jpg
Had to trim the support:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92232-1/transcoolerside.jpg

Sweet truck. i saw it on craiglist a while back, even saved some pics..

What are you doing to the old parts?

nice, welcome to the world of the chevy stepside!!! I love my '78.

Dude that thing is sweet! I always love seeing OG Stepsides.

It was on CL for a long time.
The axles and wheels are spoken for. Not to many other old parts.

First off nice truck ive always like that body style. But i also have a question for you. When i built my jeep it was a major concern for me that the drag link not have any bends in it because of bump steer and also not the safest thing in the world. So im curious as to why you are going with a bend? You are obviously spending some money on this rig so why not make it with a straight drag link?

Subscribed!!

Awesome tech :smokin: !

So im curious as to why you are going with a bend? You are obviously spending some money on this rig so why not make it with a straight drag link?

That's the way the kit came from ORD. I am far from a steering geometry engineer and figured they would know better than me.

So im curious as to why you are going with a bend? You are obviously spending some money on this rig so why not make it with a straight drag link?

The bend isn't nessesaraly a problem as long as you have strong enough material. I would expect ORD to use strong enough tube. They put those bends in it to help keep it from binding durring full flex. The biggest thing is you want an imaginary line that runs thru the two TRE's on the end of the drag link to be as flat as possible.

gotcha.. just checkin

Damn nice build:beer::beer:

Thanks. I got the front end finished and drove it around the block. Backed it in the driveway to start on the rear end. But I have been busy working on the sand car for a night run this weekend.

Want to stop by and swap in the 14B for me? ;)

The bend isn't nessesaraly a problem as long as you have strong enough material. I would expect ORD to use strong enough tube. They put those bends in it to help keep it from binding durring full flex. The biggest thing is you want an imaginary line that runs thru the two TRE's on the end of the drag link to be as flat as possible.

It's actually more for clearance of the engine crossmember on this era of Chevy/GMC trucks. But yes, it does help keep the ends flatter and thus more travel before they bind but I doubt that would be much of an issue except in extreme situations.

For the previous note mentioning steering geometry, the bend has zero effect on the actual geometry. It behaves exactly the same as if you removed the bent draglink and replaced it with a straight piece.

Too bad.

I love chevys, specially stepsides, i have one as well.....

Hey where you get the sheet metal for the bed???how much did you spend i have to fix my bed as well

Loocking forward for some more pics on the progress:D

Nice truck man step sides rock the hell out I always wanted one. They seem like they got a meaner look then regular trucks. Does the 14 bolt you have come off a deully truck because the shock mounts look really close to the pig.

Thanks. I got the front end finished and drove it around the block. Backed it in the driveway to start on the rear end. But I have been busy working on the sand car for a night run this weekend.

Want to stop by and swap in the 14B for me? ;)

I'd give ya a hand if it wasn't a billion hour drive.

orbot-I spent 200-250 on materials for the bed. Got everything from a local metal supply.
Jim-I don't think so but I have a feeling I will have to relocate them once it's in. My truck started life as a diesel long bed and he did a halfass job on converting so the shocks are in weird locations.

DW-thanks :)

I will get to work on it next weekend. This weekend is a night dune ride.

I got the front wheels and tires installed and did quick flex test. I didn't think it flexed much or maybe it's normal?
4" springs, zero rate blocks, dana 60, 39" pitbull's.

Thoughts?

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92294-1/flex.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92297-1/whl_flex_sd.jpg

Hows the shackle angle?

Looks about the same, flexed or flat:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92291-1/whl_installed_posttrim1.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/92304-1/whl_flex_fendercls.jpg

couple things on flex... 1) you need to remount the shackle hanger further forward using those springs. If you use the lower front rivet hole as a guide you can remount the cast piece using its rear hole in the front frame hole. (clear as mud ?) 2) Another good option for crazy flex is to run stock 52" rear springs in the front. in this case leave your shackle where its at and move the front hard mounts ahead of the body mounts (most of the holes are already there). both are very simple fixes. the 52's also move your axle forward like 1.5" IIRC. there are threads w/ pics on both of these subjects out there...search around a little and you'll find them. also check coloradok5.com. Good luck and nice build. -j

couple things on flex... 1) you need to remount the shackle hanger further forward using those springs. If you use the lower front rivet hole as a guide you can remount the cast piece using its rear hole in the front frame hole. (clear as mud ?)

I thought these tuff country springs were just a bolt on?
And not clear as mud on the location your speaking of, got a pic?

So the top of the shackle needs to be in front of the lower end, thus making them point forward somewhat?

best pic i could find of my old rig. note the shackle angle. i had TC ez-rides 4" and moved the shackle mount.

http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/42362/2331567530103920432S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2331567530103920432rDaHjX)

I thought these tuff country springs were just a bolt on?
And not clear as mud on the location your speaking of, got a pic?

So the top of the shackle needs to be in front of the lower end, thus making them point forward somewhat?

the TC springs are "bolt on" this is just a tuning matter. chevys are notorious for poor shackle angle when lifted. you want around 30* of angle so that the suspension can cycle fully. This gives you droop and compression/up-travel. this is beat to death tech so i will let you search on shackle angle. you have to grind the rivets off and remove the cast shakle mount. then drill them out for 9/16 bolts IIRC. imagine sliding the mount forward where the lower bolt hole on the cast piece lines up with the front bolt hole in the frame. now you will have to make your self a template out of something (cardboard, paper, ect) i used a piece of vinal siding. first find a hole saw the size of the bushing section of the cast mount. cut this out of your template. now lie your template material down on the cast mount w/ the bushing section sticking up through the hole you just made so that the template sits down flush. next mark the 4 bolt holes and drill them out in the template. viola you now have something easy to work with and a guide to mark the frame with so that you can now locate and drill out the other 3 bolt holes and center hole for the bushing in the frame. whew that was some serious typing. hope that helps -j

honestly if i was to do another GM fullsize i would run rears up front.

Thanks NC. I will look into it.

The rear 52's are longer thus giving me the proper shackle angle even with moving the front hangers?
Will it give me the same amount of lift?

yes to both, sort of... the rears may sit 1" lower depending on condition as any used spring can vary some from one set to the next. But, rule of thumb is 3-4" of lift w/ rears up front. I am about 90% sure you will not have to move the shackle mount w/ rears (because of the length) even w/ the front mounts moved forward. But worse case, if you decide to go that route, and you get them in there and the angle is bad just move the shackle mounts forward. it's truly not hard. If your looking for awesome flex rears are the only way to go! (unless you pony up for Alcan's/Deaver's :flipoff2:) Now I assume you have a shackle flip on your rear spring set-up right?

No on the rears :( I still need to swap in the 14B axle. Long story short this was originally a long bed diesel. Previous owner moved the rear hangers forward (in the arch of the frame) and bolt plus welded the effin hangers on. Stephen from ORD thought just the lifted springs would be fine for my needed. I will look at a flip later after tis whole project s finished.

the lift springs a direct bolt in but not for flex.....

I run Skyjackers and they do ok

I thought these tuff country springs were just a bolt on?
And not clear as mud on the location your speaking of, got a pic?

So the top of the shackle needs to be in front of the lower end, thus making them point forward somewhat?

ya they bolted on but that doesnt mean they will perform! Im a jeep guy but if your looking for good springs i would go with bds or deaver, bds mainly because of the lifetime warranty. Deaver is well deaver very hard to beat. I just snapped a rubicon express 1.5'' second time out. if it wasnt for the fact that it was replaced under warranty i wouldnt be using them right now, I would probably be using deavers.

Finally starting to work on this again :)

Old axle is coming out tomorrow and new 14B going in.
How do I figure out what pinion angle I need? Once I figure that out I can weld on the new spring perches.

Few pic's of the 14B:

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93282-1/gears.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93279-1/diff_cover.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93276-1/brake_bracket.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93285-1/yoke_guard.jpg

Once that's in I need to install an NP205 and a small compressor under the bed.

Finally starting to work on this again :)

Old axle is coming out tomorrow and new 14B going in.
How do I figure out what pinion angle I need? Once I figure that out I can weld on the new spring perches.




On a traditional driveline(one u joint at either end) you want the pinion angle to be equal and opposite of the trasnsfer case angle. ie, if the drivline comes off the transfer case at a 6 degree downward angle, than your pinion should have a 6 degree upward angle.

Snowbird-wouldn't that put the pinion and t-case perfectly facing the each other? Then when I hit the gas wouldn't the pinion torque upwards thus creating a bad drive shaft angle?

1/2 ton stuff is out!
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93309-1/halfton_out.jpg

Looks like I have to change the trans output shaft to accept the NP205?
Also looks like this shaft has had a grinder taken to it.
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93321-1/trans_output.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93318-1/tcase_adaptor.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93314-1/adaptor.jpg

Found a nice weld on the transmission case:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93327-1/trans_weld.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93324-1/trans_output1.jpg

I got the axle mostly in.

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93348-1/springs_in1.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93342-1/axle_in2.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93339-1/axle_in1.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93345-1/brakes.jpg

Transmission has to come out next.

all i can see are red Xs:(

Strange, they all show up for me.

Anyone else able to see the pic's?

Damm nice attention to detail:beer:

How did you paint the u bolt nuts and tighten them down without scratching?:D

I used a metric soft wrench ;)

best pic i could find of my old rig. note the shackle angle. i had TC ez-rides 4" and moved the shackle mount.

http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/42362/2331567530103920432S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2331567530103920432rDaHjX)I would think that with that angle you have on the front shackle pointing backwards like that, that when the spring compresses that it will hit the frame in the rear. because when the spring does compress it ges longer, that is why when in the correct way they are pointed forward so it can work like it needs to. Just an opinion.

I will address the shackle angle once it's drivable agin. Thanks for the reminder :)

When you measure springs do you measure hole to hole in a straight line or do you measure hole to hole following the arch of the spring?

Good work. Reminds me of when I put 1 tons under my 87 stepside.

it looks like someone had had realy jacked up the trans shaft, i had a guy give me a th350 with a 400 shaft in it. nice build!!

I would think that with that angle you have on the front shackle pointing backwards like that, that when the spring compresses that it will hit the frame in the rear. because when the spring does compress it ges longer, that is why when in the correct way they are pointed forward so it can work like it needs to. Just an opinion.

wrong...

this angle isn't perfect, but damn near... this is 52" rears up front. I gots a ton of pics if needed.

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/noface812/DSC01009.jpg

Bad ass build, I love step sides. Cut the fangs off the fenders and trim the back of the front fenders for better clearence. Why did you run Lift springs in the rear vs a shackle flip??

This was originally a long bed. The previous owner cut the rear end of the frame of and moved the spring hangers forward. He then bolted and welded the the hangers to the frame. I didn't want to cut them off and potentially ruin them in the process. We figured for my use a new spring would do the job.

TLitte and Noface-I don't see a difference in your front shackle angle. What am I missing? And yes more pic's please!

I posted my resp in regards to TLittles post about proper shackle angle (post #56). That's NCGamedog's blazer I assume. Gamedog's shackles look good to go...

didn't mean to hijack your thread, sorry :flipoff2:

No prob, more info the better.

So changing my shackle angle will help with droop more than compression?

in the pics it looks like the rear hanger on the driver side is bent ? like the frames twisted out -

but diggin it :D

Actually that one is straight, but the passenger side is tweaked a little, for now.

yes, if the shackle angle is more correct, the droop is a lot better, plus the ride is much more improved. Your truck's gonna be stiff. Getting the proper angle on the shackle will allow more compression too, and make a smoother transition.

I was just saying that from what I had seen in the past it could be a problem? I am sure it is all about getting the right angle? I just know at one time we had gotten one wrong and when we set the truck down on it weight the shackle dropped till it hit the frame, we just did not have it set right, like I was saying when a spring is moving upward it will get longer and in that set up it just did not look to work right? But I do apoligize as I was not thinking about it being built to droop vs up travel?
Sorry:D

No worries! You were right and I was confused. I thought that if you tilted it forward when the spring compresses it would for sure hit the frame since it's already closer to the frame. I had a friend model it in CAD and he says it shouldn't. Plus it does help a ton with droop.

I will try and post pic's of his model once he figures out my optimal angle.

By the way, Nice work too I like the cleaning and painting everything to look nice and clean.:D

Looking good so far :smokin: I'm planning on doing this to my stepside in the summer. Just a question though, if you move your rear springs up front what would your options be for rear suspension? Another set of rear springs with a shackle flip??? Or buying lift springs???


Dkx

I had a friend model it in CAD and he says it shouldn't. Plus it does help a ton with droop.


No need for that... this is not rocket science people, you can figure it out in a couple of min with a tape measure. Just take your tape measure and measure along the spring to get the max posible length of the spring. Then take that measurement in a streight line from the front spring mount and see if it is going to hit the frame or not.

Typicaly you want your shackle angle at a 35-45 degrees back (I run 45). Stock chevys use negitivly arched springs so they can get away with the horable shackle angle. But you are using positivly arched springs and actualy want the suspension to work...

This was originally a long bed. The previous owner cut the rear end of the frame of and moved the spring hangers forward. He then bolted and welded the the hangers to the frame. I didn't want to cut them off and potentially ruin them in the process. We figured for my use a new spring would do the job.

TLitte and Noface-I don't see a difference in your front shackle angle. What am I missing? And yes more pic's please!





Get outta here!!! they did the same thing to my truck......stepside as well:p

I've seen this truck before in a magazine yes?, i was looking for info on my 14bff brake conversion, i remember them putting the wood in and some other things

Awesome looking truck man. :D
I've always been a huge fan of stepside trucks. This only the second time I've seen a thread of someone lifting their stepside. Great job, and keep the pics coming! :bounce:

You may have seen it on off-road.com in the truck section but there is no wood in my bed now.

Update on build:
I pulled the trans out to swap in a shorter input shaft to mate properly to the new NP205. Hope to get the trans and Tcase back in this weekend.

Also mounted a compressor behind the cab and made a ghetto splash shield for it.

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93365-1/comp_rear.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93371-1/comp_top1.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93359-1/comp_cover.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93362-1/comp_cover_side.jpg

Got the trans shaft swapped to a shorter one. Now have to weld a small crack in the case :(

Twin stick is ready to go:

Had to redrill some of the holes and still fight with it to get it to line up. Hoping between this bracket (once I replace the bushings) and the crossmemeber my transmission case won't crack again.

You can see how close the exhaust is to the Tcase:

Question: When I installed the rear 14B I removed the over load springs hoping for a slightly better ride and more flex. Was this a mistake? I won't ever haul any more than a hundred or so pounds of gear.

Not in my opinion. I put shorter ones in my truck to allow the springs to flex more before they hit the overloads. Once they hit those things most suspension movement stops. I still haul loads of wood with mine though. Do you ever see overloads on Deavers? I rest my case.

did you move your pics? all i am getting is the boxes with red x's lol

My site crashed :(
Edited that post and here are a few more.

On a traditional driveline(one u joint at either end) you want the pinion angle to be equal and opposite of the trasnsfer case angle. ie, if the drivline comes off the transfer case at a 6 degree downward angle, than your pinion should have a 6 degree upward angle.

Snowbird-do I need to measure these angles with tehtruck on flat ground? My driveway has a slight slope to it. I would think as long as I measure the tcase and the pinion while in the driveway it'd be a proper reading to set the pinion angle?

I assume I can measure the tcase from the bottom of the case since it's flat but where do I measure the pinion from?

A2 + B2 = C2 and a tape measure

or

get an angle finder and a 2x4 block.

:flipoff2:

Measure the pinion center to the ground.

You may have seen it on off-road.com in the truck section but there is no wood in my bed now.

Also mounted a compressor behind the cab and made a ghetto splash shield for it.

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93365-1/comp_rear.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93371-1/comp_top1.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93359-1/comp_cover.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93362-1/comp_cover_side.jpg


Dude this looks great!!! how much was this and how does it handle work wise???

Loving the stepside

I'm no sure what they cost retail. I got a good deal through a friend.
I have not used it on the truck yet, just got it mounted before the bed goes back on. I just tested it on some sand car tires. Seemed to do a good job. I may mount a bigger tank somewhere. this one has a build in mini tank.

What should I be using for front and rear differential oils? I can't seem to find much on the net. Most articles don't say what weight to run. One mentioned the lockers needing an additive.

14B rear and Dana60 front, both with detroit lockers.

Also what to run in the NP205?

80-90 wt gear oil.

Thanks.

Tried to get it drivable today, no luck. maybe tomorrow.

what size rims are running? width/backspacing? I have a set of 39/14.5-15 PB maddogs in my garage i ordered but haven't picked up rims yet. dunno if i wanna run a 15x10 or 15x8. TIA

It's been a while but they are 17" and I think 10" width and 3.5 back spacing.

Does anyone know of any after market solutions for stronger 14B yoke straps? The OEM's look flimsy but maybe they are strong enough?

call jesse at high angle driveline

I just want stronger straps, not a 1410 kit.

Can anyone tell me what the width center to center of the spring perches should be?

Also what were they when this 14B was on a 1 ton truck?

The measurements are in here: http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html

Thanks, 42.5" but that says 1 ton. What is it on a half ton frame? I assume that's center to center even though it doesn't say.
My springs seems to be closer to 43 1/4 from bolt to bolt. (center to center)

My 79 1/2 ton is @40"
86 CUCV 1 ton @42"

rear spring center to center

The bible says:

1-tons feature 40.5" perch spacing - whether C&C or pickup, whether SRW or DRW. 3/4-ton is 42.5" spacing.

Thanks, 42.5 it is.

I learned the hard way that just tightened u-bolts are enough to hold the axle while driving ;) Luckily it happened in 2-3 feet. :shaking:

What is everyone using for rear shock mounts? Just some simple tabs? Shouldn't the shock be mounted below the axle tube similar to OEM? If so where can you buy those or do you make your own?

What is everyone using for rear shock mounts? Just some simple tabs? Shouldn't the shock be mounted below the axle tube similar to OEM? If so where can you buy those or do you make your own?

You can talk to dan at ruff stuff. hes in norcal i think. They have everything from u bolts, to perches, to shock tabs to complete axle swap kits. Hes in the vendor section.

If he doesnt have them try diy4x. hes either got them or can make them.

Thanks Kali, I will call him tomorrow. looks liek he has a couple different styles.

A friend welded the spring perches on the rear axle for me and I finally got it drivable Just in time since someone in the hood complained about it being in the driveway. Got a nice letter from the city saying I have 14 days to move it, luckily it's now drivable.

Anyway, It's off to a local friend this weekend for a new exhaust system. The current one is just to close to the transfercase. Then a few more misc items and it's hitting the trails (I hope).
Driving it today I noticed a shuttering like feeling while on the gas. Seems like something in the drivetrain but I am not sure yet. The trans is a little low on fluid but I would think it just wouldn't engage if it as real low *shrug*

Anyone have good ideas for a strong loops to weld to the axle tubes to act as a tie down point while it's on the trailer?

here's the steps tacked into place. Need to make sure the tires clear before fully welding.

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93398-1/tacton2.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93401-1/tacton3.jpg

did you make those stepsliders or buy them somewhere?
I dig'em and want a set for my burb:smokin:

I bought the hoops from a toyota web store and made the rest. I forget where. Search my posts.

here's the steps tacked into place. Need to make sure the tires clear before fully welding.

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93398-1/tacton2.jpg

Hey bro, what kind of drive shaft are you running? that pinion angle seems a bit low if you are running a double cardan style of the 205.

It's a Toms Woods regular shaft. I screwed up when welding the perches on and now have vibration which I am pretty sure is due to the shaft angle. I tried 2 degree shims but no luck. Was thinking maybe combine 2 and 3 degree shims? Maybe weld then together?

It's a Toms Woods regular shaft. I screwed up when welding the perches on and now have vibration which I am pretty sure is due to the shaft angle. I tried 2 degree shims but no luck. Was thinking maybe combine 2 and 3 degree shims? Maybe weld then together?

Why not grind off the welds on the perches so you can rotate the axles and then re-weld

That'd be the logical thing to do :)

That'd be the logical thing to do :)


DIY4X has 4,6,8 and 10 degree shims

sweet build man. i'll have to check it out sometime.:smokin:

Damn those stepsliders are friggin sick man. Nice job! :D

Me wanna see more!!!:eek:


Where in San Diero are you

Can I get opinions on what this truck is worth with all I have done to it?

its coming along nicely, but who did you get the rear disc bracket from? you need to seriously get those out of there!!! the spacer setups are known for failing!!! the trouqe from the wheel will shift the bracket and fold the spacers over or shear the bolts!!!!

Can I get opinions on what this truck is worth with all I have done to it?

You ain't planning on selling this thing are you?

Rig is looking good!

The brackets are from michigan off road. The spacers are welded on so I would think they'd be OK?

Legendkiller-I was recently laid off so I am considering my options. Not sure what it's worth though.

where are they welded? i dont see any weld, the spacers are plated and cleanly end at the bracket?

Pic's here: http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/disc.html

dude, you had better be careful, those are exactly the ones known for failing!!!!!


i would serioulsy take them off and get some sky's or ruff stuff bent brackets. hell even take the half ass spacers they did and make some solid spacers like ord's. a full layer of plat not some half ass little stands.

Mike, I'm sorry to hear that you got laid off. I know how it goes something like that happens and you start looking at selling the toys. But I made the mistake and sold mine, I regret it everyday, but a guy has to do what he has to do. If you do decide to sell it good luck man! :D

Nice build bro well done.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=781258



??? NOOOOOOO!!!!!!

If I had the money i would take it off your hands man.. sucks that you have to sell it, gave me so many ideas for my stepside :(

Shit happens :(
Plus the wife wants a smoother ride and working AC.

maybe an FJ or other Yota.

maybe an FJ or other Yota.

:barf:

haha, understood.
Gotta keep the wife happy or I will be stuck at home.

maybe an FJ or other Yota.
:eek::barf:

I like the build up! Saw your truck on CL, too bad you need a FJ or another Yota...

This was my maiden run since the build. All went well until my trans decided to only have 1st gear. No matter what I put the shifter in, all I had was 1st gear.

Truck did very well on the trails and over some rocks. It compensated well for an inexperienced driver and sucked up anything I hit. Needs some more fender trimin' though ;)

Poser shot:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93664-1/flex.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93668-1/truck-front.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93671-1/truck-rear.jpg

Did your linkage get jammed or disconnected?

Mike330R, been reading your build for a while. Rig looks awesome man. Keep up the good work.

glen-linkage seems to work however weather I am in reverse/neutral/forward gear all it does is stay in 1st. I need to look into it more.

Thanks Capria.

had the same thing happen in a mustang . ended up fixing its self going down the road.

looking good bro I think i am going to steal the air compressor idea off you

damn that is a sweet lookin truck there mate! Always liked the stepsides, not something i see regularly though.

The rims look awesome with the black beadlock too! Get it fixed and get it out in the trails again! then chuck up some pics lol

Pull the trans pan and see if the detents are working as you shift. Check the bottom of the pan. Broken thrust washers will be about the diameter of a quarter, chunky stuff is not good. Maybe you might get by with a fluid and filter change. I also had the servo stick once and it would only run in 1st gear. The servo is on the passenger side of the transmission, round, cover held on with a large internal ring.

Just saw it was a T-350, also check the vacuum modulator and governor. My bad I thought it was a 700R4.

Pull the trans pan and see if the detents are working as you shift. Check the bottom of the pan. Broken thrust washers will be about the diameter of a quarter, chunky stuff is not good. Maybe you might get by with a fluid and filter change. I also had the servo stick once and it would only run in 1st gear. The servo is on the passenger side of the transmission, round, cover held on with a large internal ring.

Just saw it was a T-350, also check the vacuum modulator and governor. My bad I thought it was a 700R4.

I replaced the modulator, checked the governor (small plastic gear?),and pulled the pan to see if it was shifting. It looks like it is shifting correctly.
No parts laying in the pan.
After all of that it's still the same, stuck in 1st.

The governor-comes out as an assembly with the opposite end of the plastic gear having to 2 wing looking deals that look to open and close inward and outward via 2 small springs. How heavy are these 2 springs? Mine seem pretty easy to move.

I can't seem to get the servo cover/metal ring off. may have to pull he exhaust to get to it. What do I look for in there that would be bad?

On my transmission the servo has a ring gasket on it. Something caused the ring gasket to stick to the inside of the trans and bind the servo movement. (probably got the trans hot) Once the servo was stuck, first gear was all I had. Once I removed the servo and replaced the gasket, it worked fine again.
It has been a long time since I messed with a T-350, but you can probably get some info online somewhere. Or maybe a used diagnostic rebuild book cheap on Amazon or Ebay. I have a book at home but that won't help now because I am at work.

This is your trucks way of telling you it does not want to be sold!

Turns out the 'S' hook came undone on the linkage, phew!
http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shift_linkage03.jpg

New dash bezel about to go in, new National Springs coming soon.
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93718-1/newbezel.jpg

why are you putting new springs on it? you are selling it and arent your springs new anyhow?

Already had the springs lined up a long time ago. If it sells it sells.

yes new springs but they are stiff.

Twin stick installed:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93833-1/installed.jpg

New Dash from Covan's Classic and Autometer gauges. Nice to have gauges that work! I do need a speedo cable and a different gas gauge.
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93837-1/new-dash.jpg

YouTube Video of the 1st test with a few pic's towards the end:

YouTube - Project BBC (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4UFlYqQEW8)

It's pretty much finished. Have new National springs (placed the order months ago, finally restarted the process) on order and need some interior work/new bench set foam.
I'm not near as motivated to sell it now but would if a buyer came along.
I would also like a different motor. This one with a solid cam and higher compression is finicky. Wants to run like crap after and hour or so on the trail.

Looks like you're having fun wheelin it, that's what it's all about :grinpimp:

nice video. weak trail. weak choice on tires. boggers baby boggers check out,...... youtube.com/4x4lou

It was quite the adventure for my 1st run and with an unhappy motor.

Tires seemed to work real well *shrug*

youtube.com/4x4lou

Looks like those boggers did real well on that hill at Pismo. :flipoff2:

Especially like the video of your passenger tossing a can out the window at Glamis. Ever heard of a trash can or do you think the world is your trash can? :mad3:

Hey Mike, the truck is killer. Hopefully the Nat'l springs will flex better. You've got a great start on that thing, but I'd love to see some custom bumpers & a cage on it. Also, it looks like the truck didn't have trouble w/any obstacles on the trail, but you might consider lowering the air pressure in the tires a bit. They looked a bit stiff. With those beadlocks you can get away w/much lower pressures than I can. Have fun with it. Later.

I'd love to see a cage and bumpers also but I doubt it, no funds for extra stuff right now. I was planning on a tire carrier/tailgate but that's also on hold.

The tires were down at 15 pounds.

i think you had a good tire and the trail was good. And it sucks that you have to sell but you should make some kind of cage just in case. And the boggers would have worked great if that wasn't as heavy as a tank, less pressure, and more power or a heavier foot.

Looks like those boggers did real well on that hill at Pismo. :flipoff2:

Especially like the video of your passenger tossing a can out the window at Glamis. Ever heard of a trash can or do you think the world is your trash can? :mad3:
Boy I couldn't agree more with those two statements.

Diggin' the step side, nice job...... I saw one on the way home from work tonight & thought of your truck!

hopefully you change your mind & keep it:smokin:

Can i see a bigger version of your avatar, look s good

At this point I am keeping it, but if someone comes along then it's gone. Just not gonna advertise as heavily as I was.
More pic's from last weekends test run:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93762-1/IMG_3154.jpg

As you can see not much flex:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93783-1/IMG_3181.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93732-1/IMG_2681.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93735-1/IMG_2682.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93771-1/IMG_3163.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93780-1/IMG_3179.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93798-1/IMG_3189.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93753-1/IMG_3141.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93759-1/IMG_3150.jpg

Here it is in it's 1/2 ton form with stock springs. You can see they were a tad softer :D

New springs on the way, then these are for sale or trade.

Looking good!


Where were those pics taken' specifically?

The ones after the build (last weekend) are at n area called Pancake rock, 20 iles east of San Diego, the 1/2 ton form pic's were from Buckman springs area, 45 minutes east of San Diego.

I am open to suggestions on exocages. Here are a couple cheesy pic's I drew a while back:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93300-1/side_frontexo.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93306-1/side_rearexo.jpg

Not gonna sell it now?

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93762-1/IMG_3154.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93732-1/IMG_2681.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93735-1/IMG_2682.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/93771-1/IMG_3163.jpg



Your truck looked nice before now its just freaking great!!:D me being a step side man my self im jealoues!!! lol


* Your are running single gas tank??
* How many leafs you got on the back right now?

Overdosed-like I mentioned I will if someone comes along and wants it.

Orbot-Thanks! I am not sure. They are Tuff Country's with the overload removed.

Took the truck out the last 3 weekends. 1st weekend out near Jacumba (East San Diego).Trans linkage came undone inside the pan and was stuck in 1st. had to have friends come rescue me with my truck and flat bed.

2nd weekend went to an area called Pancake rock. A rutted out trail up to a huge rock with an amazing view. Truck did OK until the way down it decided it didn't want to stay running in gear. Not good while coming down hill Left it in neutral coming down the trail but drove her home! Truck did pretty good climbing over obstacles etc etc.

The 3rd trip (yesterday) went pretty well until sun down. Truck would die at anything over 2200 rpm and the voltage was low. Drove it from Plaster City up the grade to Jacumba at 20mph :( and again friends came and got me. Looks like it's the alternator this time. Gonna go for a high amp alt for the compressor and lights, also need to rebuild the carb and change the plug wires.

Few pic's from the run and the new 'huntin' lights'

On a trail just outside of Ramona:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94644-1/truck.jpg
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94641-1/lights.jpg

Top of Blow Sand:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94629-1/blowsand2.jpg

Also going up Blow and the motor was pinging like crazy. Has been doing that while hard on the gas for a while now.
Have messed with the timing but can't seem to get it to stop and still have it idle in gear.
Hoping the carb rebuild and plug wires will help.
Will also try race gas for the night run.

I really need a different motor, one not so aggressive with less compression etc etc.
Anyone got one on the cheap? Fuel injection or TBI?

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94713-1/crate.jpg

Ok.
Whats in the box?
RamJet 502?

Basic crate motor, nothing special.

You are sure dumping cash in to the truck, wanna dump some in to mine :D i need a big alt as well...locking good

I am really not putting a lot of money into it. Have been getting really good deals as well as selling stuff I don't need.

When you have truck parts let me know, i might take them from you.

I don't have much. Always looking for odd ball stuff on craigslist.

New motor is in and it runs great! Got a new torque convertor and it's tons better kicking in at 1200ish rather than 2200ish.
Lots of torque but less power than my other motor. That's fine with me since this will be much better for what I need.

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94717-1/engine-old.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94720-1/engine-out.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94723-1/engin-ready.jpg

In!
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94726-1/engine-in.jpg

The garage I am working in, dream garage!
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94729-1/garage-toys.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94732-1/garage-toys1.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94735-1/shop-front.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94738-1/shop-side.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94741-1/yard.jpg

WOW dream garage in deed!!!:eek:

Where is that place, looks desert like

man i really hate to see the camaro with the hockey stick stripes with a box sitting on it?

High desert, above Palm Springs, CA.

that Camaro has been sitting for a long time waiting for teh owner to start the restore.

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94756-1/loaded.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94753-1/dino2.jpg

Man I love this thing! How much were you asking for it when you had it up for sell? What would you take now for it? I read your whole thread and Im in love with it haha... I'd love to build a mid 70's Dodge stepside VERY similar to this down the road:smokin:

Thanks!

I think I was down to 12K. Always open to offers with the new motor etc etc.

what kind of headers are you running?

I think they are Hookers, but it's hard to tell.
Were on the truck when I got it.

WOW dream garage in deed!!!:eek:

Where is that place, looks desert like



X2 :smokin:

Mike, nice build!
Kinda looks better than my truck:flipoff2:.
I have meant to put my stepside bed on, since the GLO days.

What is the distance from your bottom frame rail, (tranny/t-case area) to the ground? Try'ing to gauge a thing or two (I've dropped down 'alot' on my lift).


Remember GOL? http://www.americansandassociation.org/phpBB3/index.php . When it was Glamis On Line.

I was the guy telling everyone, all trucks aren't bad:laughing::laughing::laughing::flipoff2: :flipoff2:!
I still have my max bored/ported TRX250r with the esr, 38, and other crap.
Do you still have your Quad?

I do hope the money thing works out for you.
Flipper,
from the old days...

Hey MR-Have we met? I do remember GOL, back when I..... never mind ;)

I am not sure on the distance but can measure it. I'd guess around 20".

Quad is long gone :( , but built a 2-seat long travel a few years ago. Turbo Honda powered. Still have it and have a lot of fun in it.

That's a nice lookin tow rig. Are you still thinkin about doing an exo? That would look good IMO

Exo someday.

Installing TBI now.

fukin rights..love it

Exo someday.

Installing TBI now.

I just made my rig TBI....:D

Update.
I took to truck out with this current 600 carb, it did terrible!
I got the needles back from my last carb which are spring loaded to help the floats stay in place in the bumps and inclines. Since the 1st run with the new motor and after installing these new needles I can't for the life of me get the fuel tube that connects the bowls together to seal and not leak.
have tried different o-rings and am now trying some black RTV.
Here's the differences in needles:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94820-1/needles.jpg

After the 1st run I decided to go fuel injection. A friend gave me an old Holley TBI set-up but after a lot of reading I decided not to use it. I bought a TPI (tuned port injection) set-up from a Camaro and almost have all the parts. Just need new sensors, gaskets, fuel fittings and lines, and I am going to try and use the pump that came with the Holley TBI kit.

The TPI system will have a Painless Wiring kit, painless computer which I can tune with my laptop with their software. Will also be adding a wide band O2 sensor to aide in tuning. Bosch 22lb injectors, Lokar cables, and misc stuff.

All the the above I got really good deals on, otherwise there'd be no way with my small income.

Today I moved my power steering reservoir back to allow me to finally install a 2nd battery tray.
I also cut the fenders, fixed a few misc items and installed a 6' e-fan in front of the trans and steering coolers. I realize it's not in the best position but it will help some while at slow speeds. How do you like my custom r'neck mounts? ;) Hey it works and I didn't feel like fab'ing brackets. Between the zip ties and the grill resting on part of the fan motor housing it's secure. I had to trim the grill.

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94824-1/6-inch.jpg

http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/94828-1/6-inch1.jpg

Long over due update. I installed most of the TPI system a few months back and then it sat due to lack of funds and the sand dune season starting.

Here is what's done. i still need the fuel system for it.

New injectors vrs old:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/95099-1/injectors.jpg
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/95102-1/injector-tips.jpg

New throttle cable mount vrs old:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/95105-1/throttle-backets.jpg

TPI:
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/95108-1/fuelrail.jpg
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/95111-1/runners-in2.jpg
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/95114-1/runners-in.jpg
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/95117-1/tpi-installed.jpg
http://www.sandbros.us/gallery2/d/95120-1/tpi-installed2.jpg

It has sat like this for a few months. I am going to try and start gathering parts but have questions on the fuel system. Please see this thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10582273#post10582273

I cannot stress how important it is to replace the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm.
If it is a used regulator that has been sitting it will have dry rotted and will fail once you use it. When it fails it goes full rich and can hydrolock an engine.
That very thing cost me an engine on my first TPI swap.

I would make the regulator adjustable , either by doing it yourself or buying one and bolting it on. Like stated, change the diaphram while the upper is off.

I will do that, thanks!

Mike nice build -Good to see you making something that makes mechanical sence - Now go jump it and blow the center out of the wheel huh-:D Jess

Am I able to replace the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm with the intake and other parts already installed as pictured above?

Nope , youll have to loosen the runner bolts and pull the plenum off