Too small? Thinking about going to a little smaller tire for the summer time. My 42's are great and all but work the front tubing hard. I've got a set of 16" beadlocks collecting dust and seems my options are a 37 x 12.5 or 38 x 14.5

i would go with 37 mtrs

Gonna be Creepy Crawlers. The MTR is a decent tire, I've had two sets of 37's but want something more rock-oriented. My 42" Irok's are treating me very well in the snow

102 views and one MTR fan...lame

:laughing:

Do you do comps? If not, back up and try another line if you find your hanging up too much. :flipoff2:


I've got some 16" Pitbulls that are 37's I'd sell ya. :D

Too small? Thinking about going to a little smaller tire for the summer time. My 42's are great and all but work the front tubing hard. I've got a set of 16" beadlocks collecting dust and seems my options are a 37 x 12.5 or 38 x 14.5

Okay... since you want more responses I will post... I usaually end up learning something the hardway when I do this though :D

Looked around a little to see what ya built... couldnt find it.

If you are running your standard one-ton stuff (not shaved, no custom housings, etc.) and 37s I think you will be playng dodge-ball with your diffs and the rocks. I would say 38s (swampers?) at least (believe your tire selction is limited by rim size as stated)... pick up a set and cut them up. Build your own tread. Maybe a new project you havent done yet???

If you cant find a tire selection you like... get rid of 'em and buy some'thin

No comps currently, thinking about doing a few Cal Rocs events though. Axles are narrowed, but not shaved more than what I could smooth out with my grinder (maybe a 1/2"). I'm starting to consider buying a set of 17" beadlocks so I can run a set of 39-40" stickies and keep the Iroks/ stauns for the snow. I was hoping to keep costs down by running the extra set of 16" Bl's I have, but the tire selection sucks! Even the creepies are a heavy load range. Still haven't weighed the rig, surely in the 4k-4500 lb range, I'm guessing

jeremy, 37's would look kinda funny on a vehicle that fits 42's, no?

The 42's look better, but all the tubing, etc was built around 37's and clears by a 1/4-1/2" so you can imagine the rubbage I'm getting with the 42's. It wasn't a problem in the snow, but it's something I've noticed my two times through Fordyce this summer. I plan to spend a week at the hammers and a week in Moab next year and the 42's would be constantly rubbing at the hammers.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/rockbuggyguy/fordyce7-4-08/Fordyce7-4-8011-1.jpg

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/rockbuggyguy/fordyce7-4-08/Fordyce7-4-8011-1.jpg

you trust your dog to drive that pretty lady around on the trail, he's not even watching where he's going!!??:flipoff2:

duh, she's backing up :flipoff2:

Flat ground, without the dog driving
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/rockbuggyguy/8.jpg

duh, she's backing up :flipoff2:

:laughing::laughing::laughing:!!!!!

cruiser looks awesome!

Why not spend a little time and rework the tube work and keep the 42"s. If all u need to do is rework the fenders that would seem better to keep the larger tires and the money in you're bank account or spent on other goodies.

Why not spend a little time and rework the tube work and keep the 42"s. If all u need to do is rework the fenders that would seem better to keep the larger tires and the money in you're bank account or spent on other goodies.

I've considered that option. I'm strapped on time and thought about having Don redo them for me...still considering it. I've got a ton of time and detail into the fenders and even to rework it is a HUGE job and would likely cost as much as a second set of tires. I've pretty much decided to go with a set of 39" stickies. I've been offered a smokin deal on some soon to be released beadlocks and will move to a 17" rim, for better tire selection.

The axles are holding up great, I haven't been easy on them; but I know my throttle antics with 42's is hard on stuff. Last weekend was the first trip with the new motor that I haven't broken a front driveline. A little smaller, lighter, grippier tire would be nice for the summer time.

Two sets of tires sucks. I've done it in years past and am going to do it again starting this season. I just got 44's on stauns for winter and plan to stick with the 39's for summer. Past experience was I always had the wrong set of tires for the intended trip and was swapping them all the time. (get home from snow, hammers next weekend, etc...)


edit, I'd cut that shit off and wheel it like it is.

or stickies for sure.

Need to wait a couple more years to cut it off. I like driving it to the grocery store or out to dinner. I trailer everywhere for wheeling. I think the bars are the only thing keeping me from getting hrassed by the local PD, even though they are not skinned, it looks as if I have full fenders.

I know what you're saying about swapping. My next hammers trip is in Feb, so off with the snow tires and on with the stickies.

I really like my cc's. The 40 only measure like 38.5 new so I wouldn't bother buying 37's unless that is all you can get. After wheeling them you won't want to put the swampers back on except when it snows. I am changing wheels soon and am contemplating selling my 17 mrt 40 bolts with stans in them with the 1/2 thick 7075 rings. I need to get my new wheels first before I can tear it down, but they do have cc's mounted on them.

5 lug :(

5 lug :(


same thing shot thru my mind!!

to make it possible for anyone fyi I am changing to 6 lug so my dynatrack front hubs, rotors/caliper mounts for the front and the rear hubs are coming off as well. Going six lug, for long winded to hard to explain at this point.

My HP 60 rear is SF, otherwise I'd consider it. I've got a friend willing ot trade his 5 lug 60 stuff for 8

bumpstops?? Not sure how much uptravel you have now, but would you be able to lose a few inches and run some bumpstops (or longer ones)? I'm sure you would still have a good amount of forced articulation and would be imagine the performance loss wouldnt be much if any?? But like i said, you may already be at only 3-4" of uptravel??

I'm running the timbren style progressive bumps (as close to air as you can get) on all 4 corners. Everything is dialed and adjsuted for shock/ suspension travel and not keeping the tire out of the body. 2.5" resi shocks valved firm for getting it. After smashing my first hydro fitting when I hit a 4' hole at 25 mph I spaced the front bumps down 1". It went from soaking everything but the 4' hit at 25, (which didn't feel that bad....drove another 1/4 mile before realizing something was wrong) to hitting hard on much smaller stuff.

i'd run creepies or iroks for sure. MTRs are great all around tires but the sidewalls just can't take the punishment.

Flat ground, without the dog driving
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/rockbuggyguy/8.jpg

ain't it cool how everything else looks like shit when it's next to a cruiser

I have run 35" Mud terrain, 37" MTR and 39.5" IROK on my FJ40 with the D60's. For street driving I like the 35's the best, for off-highway I like the 39.5" the best. For combo the 37" did the trick. When the rubicon gets paved I will get rid of the 39.5" and 35" and run the 37 everywhere if I am still wheeling then.

In the mountains 37" would work in the summer and early fall, but after the wet shit comes and the holes get deep screw it you will want the 42". At the hammers the 35"s worked ok with the cruiser axles. When I changes to the 1 ton runing gear the 37" worked but hung up alot and the 39.5 where the best so far.

If you can get a 40" tire and the only problem you have is the rubbing your problems are solved i would think. As to the MTR side wall issues, I ate 3 tires in 12 month all at the hammers, all replaced under road hazzard warranty. I ran Fordyce, Rubicon, Swamp Lake, Dusy-ershim, the Indy trail system in Colorado all with no side wall issues. I can see issues in the wet months of the mountains due to slipping into tree roots and I have never punctured my Iroks yet with more abuse than I delivered to the MTR

Bought 7 new Krawlers last week and Walker wheels. Should have the new shoes on for labor Day. 42's will go in the garage for winter time

Bought 7 new Krawlers last week and Walker wheels. Should have the new shoes on for labor Day. 42's will go in the garage for winter time

:grinpimp: Bling bling!!

Guess it's too late now, but a friend of mine reported that his 40" Creepy's were every bit as heavy as 42x17" IROK's.

My thinking is that the Krawlers (reds I assume) are gonna be harder on parts than the IROK's because of the traction difference.. Keep us in the loop!

Yep, reds of course. I'll keep updated. I'm intereted to see just how "sticky" the tires really are.

you'll be addicted and understand why they are referred to "crack" tires

good thing I got 7 then huh :flipoff2: I sure would hope so I've got more in tires, wheels and beadlocks than many in my club have in their whole rigs.

Well, took them out this weekend and so far have not blown away by the tire performance. I'll need to hit up fordyce again for a true comparison as I've wheeled it twice this summer on my 42's. They are brand new Krawlers and I'll admit my psi was probably a bit low (8psi) as the rig was hopping with some tire bind on one really steep climb. Good news, I made the climb...which my friend hadn't seen done before, but so did a guy with 38 sx's and 10" more wheelbase.

I'll weigh one of my Krawler/ Walker combo's against my 42" Irok/ Staun/ Al wheel combos this week.

Tearing into it, seems I bent a 4340/ cryo'd rear axle and broke a Warn lockout

Passenger rear axle is twisted about 1.5 splines. Driver's rear axle is ok...ARB appears to be broken? One of the 4 "pins" for lack of better word is protruding over 1/8" and appears to have contacted the pinion...I'll have to check the pinion when I pull the ARB out. Pictures loading now

pic of the carnage and new shoes =]


Eric

No shoe pictures, didn't even take the camera out of the bag last weekend.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/rockbuggyguy/brokenparts001.jpg

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/rockbuggyguy/brokenparts002.jpg

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/rockbuggyguy/brokenparts004.jpg

I still have to pull the ARB and disassemble it and check the pinion. I'm also going to finish tearing down the front end to install my Reid knuckles and check the front shafts/ joints

Reid is the new owner of Dedenbear or new name or whatever, yes ?

Nice twist. Looks like pinion was rubbing the arb case as well. Some have mentioned that the housings may flex enough to miss align the carrier bearings which could have caused the twist and rub but interesting to see the pin pushed out. That hole in case is done IMO, won't hold pin in anymo.

edit, I'd cut that shit off and wheel it like it is.

.

totally! :beer:

Reid is the new owner of Dedenbear or new name or whatever, yes ?

Nice twist. Looks like pinion was rubbing the arb case as well. Some have mentioned that the housings may flex enough to miss align the carrier bearings which could have caused the twist and rub but interesting to see the pin pushed out. That hole in case is done IMO, won't hold pin in anymo.

Yes, Reid Racing is the new name/owner for Dedenbear. What you see in the pics is a smear mark from my grubby fingers trying to feel how raised it was. I'll try and get it torn down tomorrow. I was going to run an alignment bar through the housing while it's apart.

Check out the exploded view Jesster posted in the General 4x4 thread . It is good for reasssembly. IMO after viewing the schematic, it looks like the sheer pin that retains that shaft musta broke or the shaft itself. If it is it is actually in your favor that it moved out because they usually fuse to the spider when this happens. Check the end of pinion and pinon bearing well. You may get luck and use a new spider, shaft, lock pin, IMO get new shaft, measure hole size for lockpin in shaft and measure hole for lock pin in case very very closely and have a lock pin machined to match em exactly, do not use an ARB pin it will be to small now.

Thanks, saw his schematic. May just see what a new case will run me, or pack it up, ship it to ARB and wait

Would you mind posting some pics of your front Timbrens and mounting, as well as which ones you used??

Also, there is a 39.5/16 Irok. I will have a new set of these for sale later in the year.

While I've got things torn down, I was gonna take some pics and some srot of a build/ tuning thread.

The 39.5's do nothing for me. The tread blocks are smaller, and the tread depth is shallower than the 42's. I've got a lot of friends running them, but they don't have the drivetrain or powertrain for 42's....turns out I may not either.

ARB is junk

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=713142