Ok i have a 85 1/2 ton with a ff14 in the rear, i have already converted it to disk brakes and love them, truck stops great, well it did with the 37s on 17" H2s. I recently picked up a set of 20" MT Classic 2s and put on a set of
39.5/13.50 IROKS. Truck is looking awsome and it actualy rides pretty good on the street, its my daily driver. But now i am having a little bit of a braking problem, pads are wearing a lot faster and it doesnt want to stop as well not really a surprise but something i need to try and fix. I have searched here and cant really find anything, also searched all the major aftermarket brake companys with no luck. I was just wondering if any one knows of someone that makes a bigger rotor and caliper for the 14bolt. looking for a 4 or 6 piston caliper. something with some good stopping power. I live in the northeast and people cant drive around here, dont need to run over any hondas.

youre talking about $1200 in upgrades.

the best thing i did was i got a hydro boost m/c and it stops awsome. 1-5/16 bore. the next cheapest would be to go from the d44 cals to the d60 bendex type.

i only bring up the big m/c is because of the volume needed to move the big cals. my settup will be rear steer with d60 cals at all corners so i will need to move alot of fluid. as for now with the d60 and d44 cals it is a stiff-ish pedal but it stops great.











and fawk hondas, i run over as many as i can.

OK so are you talking about converting to Hydroboost, or just using the Hydro master. I was thinking about converting it over to hydro, now do you have hydro assist steering. and if you do do you have any problems steering when you are on the brakes?

just the master

no i dont have hydro steering either.

thanks for the info man i will give it a shot.

Which master would you use and does it bolt right up? Only difference is bore and volume? What's it cost compared to hydroboost which is $600ish and does it work anywhere near as good?

Which master would you use and does it bolt right up? Only difference is bore and volume? What's it cost compared to hydroboost which is $600ish and does it work anywhere near as good?

Are you fucking kidding? It cost me less than $60 to go hydroboost.

Isn't the VanCo set-up 600ish?
What am I missing? :)

you are missing good old fashioned getting dirty pulling it yourself from the junkyard.

if you want just the master they are cheap from any parts store. 1 ton hyro boost.

he's saying dont spend $600 on some kit that might cost $60 worth of junkyard OEM parts.

also, the rear disk is not the problem, its the fronts. $1200 in brake upgrades could get you a full d60, not just 60 calipers, to match the 14 bolt rear.

OK I will look at some local junk yards for the full set-up.

But just upgrading the master would make a noticeable difference and bolt on?

yes it will, do not use this master if you dont have disks out back. its a little too big in the bore for the d44/d60 combo, it will be insanely to much if you still have drums on the back.

seach and pull a bunch off of the trucks, they are easy to get off. i grabbed 5-6 at random from lots of different year and types of chevys, i had 4 differnt bore sizes to chose from.

I will have a D60/14B w/ disk set-up. Which year master would I need?
if I tell a parts store a bore size they will say 'what year' :)

yeah bore size will mean nothing to them. i got mine froma a 85 ,2wd, 1 ton, auto, white, 16" wheels, shaded windsheild and hydro boost.

Why didn't you take/use the full hydroboost from that truck?

yeah bore size will mean nothing to them. i got mine froma a 85 ,2wd, 1 ton, auto, white, 16" wheels, shaded windsheild and hydro boost.

Actually...the books DO list this information, as does our computer system. I know because I have looked them up for myself and others. The key will be finding a counterman that is knowledgeable and willing to take the time to look. On the other side of things...you need to be patient. You might even want to stop by in the morning with the information and come back later in the afternoon. I'll bet he'll have one waiting for you on the counter and he won't be annoyed with you because he got to do the research when he had a moment or two throughout the day.

That said...I will try and find an application or two for you tomorrow at work. You're going to want that much information and not just a part number anyway because someday you're going to have to go to a place staffed by people that just don't know. Do as I do...have a list in the glovebox of various non-stock part numbers along with an application or two. It makes getting parts WAY easier. :D

Why didn't you take/use the full hydroboost from that truck?

dont/didnt feel like i needed it. i was happy with how it stopped before i did the upgrade, i was at the yard get propvalves and thougt" why not get another master too..."

i was have flow issues that turned out to be a seized prop. but i grabbed the master because i was planing on the big rear brakes later anyways, plus since i had the system open and fluid drained so why not.

but youre counting on a compitent counter person that even knows that there are even books under the counter. the over welhming majority will tell you they dont have it after after one search.

but youre counting on a compitent counter person that even knows that there are even books under the counter. the over welhming majority will tell you they dont have it after after one search.

Very true. We are very fortunate. I have had issues at other parts houses getting so much as the correct distributer cap for a 22re. SMP lists one part number for 1985-1995 for the 4wd 22re powered trucks...

but youre counting on a compitent counter person that even knows that there are even books under the counter. the over welhming majority will tell you they dont have it after after one search.

Can parts guys even look for a part without a VIN?:D

Can parts guys even look for a part without a VIN?:D

I can...:flipoff2:

As promised, here is some information.


Bore: 1 5/16

App: 1979 C-30

Wagner p/n: F98953

Cardone p/n: 10-1584

Napa p/ns: SS 4739017 or UP 39017

Casting #: 2229071

Fittings: 1/2-20 and 9/16-18

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Other options that exist from biggest to smallest...

*1 15/16 bore, 1986 K-30, Cadone 10-1982, Wagner F108145

*34mm (~1 11/32) bore, 1987 P30, Cardone 10-1668, Wagner F103239

*1 1/4 bore, 1985 C-20 "JD-7" system, Cardone 10-1872. Wagner F104464

*1 1/8 bore, 1984 K-20 "JD-5" system, Cardone 10-1863, Wagner F104456

*edit* Obviously there are more options, but I thought this list gave a decent spread. All are hydroboost applications.
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That should be enough to get you going. I do want to point out that stepping up to a bigger master cylinder is not going to help your complaint of going through frictions faster. A bigger MC is going to reduce your mechanical advantage but generate more volume which means your pedal will be higher and harder, but require MORE effort on your part to get the same stopping power as before...but you will have more travel so in theory you could get more stopping power if you have the leg strength to get it to the floor. Just remember to put the larger reservoir of the MC on the circuit with larger displacement needs. Not knowing what calipers you used in the back means I can't tell you.

The truth of the matter is your new stopping power requirements are just par for the course. It's an inertial issue. Your new 20 inch rims are KILLING you. I really don't think that the slight increase in tire height made nearly as big of an impact. A good, safe braking system is out there and I'm sure you will find it by mixing and matching parts. But I think you need to prepare yourself for something you can't change and that's that you're going to burn through rotors and linings much faster now. It's just the way it goes. Investing in better pads may help, but longer lasting pads means shorter lasting rotors generally. I'm a big fan of ceramics myself, but many aren't. You might have to just experiment a bit and find what is going to work.

Thnks for the info.

I think I am just going to look for a junk yard hydroboost set-up from a mid 90's 1 ton.
Will i need to modify anything on it to fit an '83?

Thnks for the info.

I think I am just going to look for a junk yard hydroboost set-up from a mid 90's 1 ton.
Will i need to modify anything on it to fit an '83?

Why not use one from the same body style, then you definitely won't have to.

How will it work with disk all around? Doesn't it have to be proportioned for 4 disks?

As you can see I am new to hydroboost installs :)

Thanks for all the info, will def help out a lot. I know they rims are what is killing my braking thats why i was really looking for someone that knows of or has seen a big brake setup for our trucks, bigger rotors and calipers, really my goal. I know i can have stuff custom made and i know its goin to cost a lot but its worth it to get the my big pig stopped. But i will def try the bigger master for now and up grade the rear calipers to D60s, right now i just 3/4 ton calipers on my 14bolt. Other then that i just i just need to search the aftermarket brake companys for stuff that will work. I am sure its out there. Just dont want to go to custom then its really hard to get parts.

Hydroboost is not any different than vacuum assist as far as everything is concerned ASIDE from the booster. Nope, the master isn't even different, save for possible bore combinations. The only real difference will be the booster which will use the power steering pressure acting on a piston rather than differential pressure from engine vacuum and the atmosphere acting on a diaphragm.

So...will hydroboost require proportioning of some type? Yes, but no more so than your current vacuum setup does. I think it's possible that the increased braking pressures from hydroboost will make an unbalanced braking condition more apparent, but the truth is you need the proportioning valve either way.

I would mount an adjustable proportioning valve right next to your seat. It's out of the way, but it allows you to adjust on the fly. You can also install a shutoff valve then. The combination of a prop valve, a shutoff/linelock, and a twin sticked case will allow you to do some pretty crazy stuff.

Good idea :)
I was already going to try the mechanical line lock to act as an ebrake.

Just dont want to go to custom then its really hard to get parts.

So go hydroboost for higher pressures and use quality frictions for long life and friction. Bigger rotors will help a lot and you have the room with your massive wheels, but you're right...custom can suck. Just ask Toyota guys with rear discs. I can get my rotors off the shelf at any parts store when it's time to replace them, but I'm still stuck finding a machine shop to bore them out to a 4.125 hub opening. :shaking:

How will it work with disk all around? Doesn't it have to be proportioned for 4 disks?

As you can see I am new to hydroboost installs :)

what did i just spend all of my posts telling you?

it will reduce the stroke and will be a bit to much for small tires and d44/d60 calps.

i have 38 x11 boggers with h1's and plastic inserts= heavy as fawk.i am happy with how it behaves with that master/bore and the stock prop valve.

i dont know why you would go into the mid 90's stuff.

80-87 1 ton or diesel 2wd 4wd what ever.

Just exploring options and learning what would be best.
Think I got it now.

Thanks for all the info, will def help out a lot. I know they rims are what is killing my braking thats why i was really looking for someone that knows of or has seen a big brake setup for our trucks, bigger rotors and calipers, really my goal. I know i can have stuff custom made and i know its goin to cost a lot but its worth it to get the my big pig stopped. But i will def try the bigger master for now and up grade the rear calipers to D60s, right now i just 3/4 ton calipers on my 14bolt. Other then that i just i just need to search the aftermarket brake companys for stuff that will work. I am sure its out there. Just dont want to go to custom then its really hard to get parts.
what do you have for a front end?

what do you have for a front end?

I have a 44 right now, i am in the process of finding a d60 but everyone that have found near me lately gets sold before i can go pick it up. so i will find one just a matter of time.

If you replace the pads again on the 1/2 or 3/4-ton stuff get pads for a 96 Caprice with the cop suspension. They fit the same caliper and will last quite a bit longer.