i know a lot of people don't run 44s on half tons , but can someone tell me how to build a 9 inch on 3.50 gears , spooled to hold up to 44 inch cut boggers and 550 horse? im on my third set of gears now and second third member and it is the 31 spine axles and im tryin to keep the cost under a grand. thanks

PM Proeliator. He knows.:)

:laughing:

Just to try to help before the flaming gets into full swing-

Aftermarket case, full non drilled spool, and aftermarket alloy axles- beyond that, you will be better off stepping up to a dana70, Sterling, Eaton or 14 bolt (but you should seriously consider doing that now anyway)

40-spline, full spool, aftermarket case with Daytona pinion support, real gears (i mean seriously, who the fawk runs 3.50s with 44s? :barf::laughing:) and truss the ever-loving shit out of the housing.


oh, and set down the bowl... that shit's bad for ya, man. :laughing::flipoff2:

PM Proeliator. He knows.:)

Oh my!!!!

you do know for half of what it would take to keep a 9" alive in those conditions, you could have built 2 14b's ?

its the bearings that would fail after all the center work. :laughing:

even a full floater 9" is what... a factory 14b?


EDIT: where are you located? ill sell you mine, 1000 bucks. :laughing:

keep the cost under a grand. thanks
That part is the killer for you right there. You can build a STOUT 9 but it costs WAY more than that. Why not toss a 14 bolt under there and have cash left over?

:shaking:

That part is the killer for you right there. You can build a STOUT 9 but it costs WAY more than that. Why not toss a 14 bolt under there and have cash left over?

Cause he'd have to get rid of his 5 bolt wheels if'n he went to a real axle:flipoff2:

Brewchief:D

Seriously, it'll be cheaper to put a 1 ton axle under there and go to 8 lug wheels than to build that 9. unless there are class rules that require a stock axle, you'll be miles ahead just going to a plain bigger axle.

Justin

I too agree with upgrading to the 14 bolt, cheap and easy to find, easy to set up and about as bomb proof as you get. 9" rears IMO cost to much to upgrade for your purpose as compared to a 1 ton axle. If wheels and tire combo are a problem you can find 8-lug 15" wheels and they are not too expensive. What are you using for the front axle?

i have a set of one tons for truck already but i don't want to put them in unless i have to , i just want to keep the half tons under it because they are extremely light compared to dana 60s . i just don't understand why the rearend cant take it because im runnin a 79 dana 44 front with only upgraded balljoints and a spool , it even has the stock axle shafts and ive never broke any front end parts. and im located in davenport , iowa

You're worried about weight with 44's?
With 1 tons, you'll get better brakes, shafts, and they wont break as easy as a 9" will. It's only a matter of time till the front breaks. :laughing:

I never broke anything in the rear until i dumped about$2k of upgrades in the D-44, now all the carnage has shifted to the rear as i suspected it would. Sounds like the rear in your truck is doing most of the work and is giving out before the D-44 finds its limits. You WILL break the D-44 soon enough. Working on broken crap all the time will eventually take the fun out of your hobby and the Chevy guys harassing you the whole time wont help either. Been there, done it.

i have a set of one tons for truck already but i don't want to put them in unless i have to , i just want to keep the half tons under it because they are extremely light compared to dana 60s . i just don't understand why the rearend cant take it because im runnin a 79 dana 44 front with only upgraded balljoints and a spool , it even has the stock axle shafts and ive never broke any front end parts. and im located in davenport , iowa


you're runnign 44 cut boggers and 550 HP on stock D44 front axles>??? :laughing::laughing:

Leave now....

79Redneck460,

bud Ive got a similar setup to you in a 79 250, a little more HP and a little less tire, and I cant keep 60 rears under it. The D44hd front was the first to go and was replaced with a 35sp chromo'd 60. Im swapping a 70U under it next weekend because Im tired of breaking shafts.

Dont be a duche. Build up a real axle to handle the horsepower and tires youre running and you'll never regret it. You should also be in the 4.88-5.13 range for gears. 3.50s are just plain stupid.

Got any specs of this truck?

meh. im runnin 3.50's :D

would rather be running 4.88's or 5.13's but that costs money :laughing:

i know a lot of people don't run 44s on half tons ,


see, when you make an observation like that. you gotta stop and think hey, maybe theres a reason why people dont run 44's on stock half ton shit.

and if you wanna run big tires, your going to have to upgrade everything else on the truck to handle the weight,size,torque,horsepower and leverage that the motor and tires put on the drivetrain.

you cant do one thing expect it to work, without doing the other. in your case, throwing big tires on stock axles and hoping it will survive past the mall parking lot because you didnt upgrade your axles/drivetrain.

^^^^^^ Yup!

if it were easy and cheap everyone would do it.


79Redneck460,
you arent having any trouble out of your 44 front? Id imagine that thing would grenade right off the bat with 44" cut boggers.

Hell i could not make it threw a day with out breaking chromo shafts in my d44 with 38s and only 500hp. You must have a special one.

nope no problems at all with the 44 front it came out of a 79 bronco and i spooled it and put better balljoints in it , only thing in front that has broke was a drive shaft when i ran a car and a jeep over cuz a peice of the car broke off and hit it , but im tryin to avoid puttin the one tons i got in cuz they are all stock and with the price it would take to build them i could have put together a real badass 9 inch . and i have some friends running basically the same setup as me with 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks and they cant even come close to me in the mud they just sink and they break axles almost as much as i do.

So do you wheel this thing or do you just run over cars with it?

well im gonna go out on a limb and say your engine doesnt come even close to 550 horsepower.


something just doesnt add up. i have the same setup and have broke it a buncha times with dynoed 351/490 on skinny 38's.

I dont see how even 200hp wouldnt be snapping D44 shafts or hubs left and right with 44 cut boggers. The 3.50 gears probably help some though.

Maybe I shouldve got one of the hardcore versions of 1/2 axles because obviously my factory 79 F250 stuff couldnt hold up. I could break D44HD and D60FF shafts (factory and chromo) like toothpicks with 38.5 SXs and they are both basically the same strength as your F150s axles. It didnt take long to get smart and upgrade so now Im running a 35sp chromo 60 and this weekend Im swapping in a D70U. How much weight do you really think youre saving by keeping 1/2ton stuff? My guess is ~300lb. Thats the same as letting your buddy ride with you and tossing an extra cooler in the back. There is also a big difference in "thinking you have 550hp" and "having 550hp"

Im one of those guys who "has 550hp+"


BTW, How old are you?

i mean im not one to call people out, but im callin you out with my 350 hp engine :D

i know you guys really don't beleive me but im not pulling ur leg here. the truck is a 82 f 150 long bed , 9 inch suspension, 3 inch body. everything unnessesary is gone it has a 302 that came out of a 84 mustang running consistantly in the mid tens . i pulled the 8.8 rear and ifs front out and put 79 bronco axles in spooled. it has a factory 4 spd tranny with a custom clutch. im runnin a fresh 208 transfer case with 261 final gear. i built it just for muddin in a trail that is close to my home . the frame has been plated front to back . i bought the 44 inch boggers about 6 months ago brand new from the local 4 wheel shop and grooved them out myself with a hot knife. that is everything about my truck and if you guys don't beleive me thats fine . all i wanted to know is how to make my rear axle hold up to the rest of the truck.and if you don't beleive me you can come to davenport iowa and i will gladly show you that i can burn off boggers on dry pavement .

all i wanted to know is how to make my rear axle hold up to the rest of the truck.

cut the ubolts and replace with a D70 14bt or Sterling 10.25 or spend 2 grand+ on a 35 or 40sp 9".

i will gladly show you that i can burn off boggers on dry pavement .
Video or BS:flipoff2:

it has a 302 that came out of a 84 mustang running consistantly in the mid tens .

Video or BS:flipoff2:



agreed.

lemme dwell into the 302 world for you a bit. i dont know everything, but i can touch a few points with a 302.


A) what block is on the engine? stock or aftermarket? if stock your on borrowed time here buddy.

B) if its not stroked and bored hard to like a 347 or something BIG, its not even going to THINK that type of power naturally asperated.

C) i think you think it sounds fast.

D) 302's dont make garbles and garbles of HP.

D) unless you have some huge HUGE money wrapped up in that engine, im thinking in the neighborhood of 350 hp or so. maybe.

E) lets get some specs on the engine and the car it came out of.
to run a 3000ish lb car thru the traps in the 10's granted the person can drive, and the car is setup you need about 400-500 hp. meh. my buddies m3 makes 450 dynoed to the ground and it can barely get in the 11's due to traction. lemme see some beef, your your just the tail end of the bovine here partner :flipoff2:

Honestly, I don't give a rats-ass what he is running for an engine, or what it makes for power- bottom line is that he is consistently breaking rear 9's.

How is the rear end lifted, ??blocks?? if so, maybe you are getting some axlewrap that is hammering on the rear end components.

If you are in Iowa. you need to check out www.miobi.org

ok first off, irok cherokee and halogrinder ....... i don't give a fuck what either of you think because all ive been tryin to do is find out how do make my rear axle strong . it had nothin to do with if my motor is a stock block or not, which it is a stock block and yeah it is a 331 stroker with aluminum heads so fuck off and it does make 550 hp, and even if it didn't who gives a fuck besideds you two retards. and the only videos i have of the truck are when i first got it and it only had 40s on it with ifs and bone stock motor . so when i get a recent video you are more than welcome to see it. thanks wyldstallyn73 for not bein a dick like most of the others. it does have a block lift in the rear

hey dick licker........ is that a 200 hp 331 with a 300 shot of nitrous on there, or what? where did you get it dynoed? i still have this unicorn for sale if you want, and his buddy my little pony will help you set the gears up on your 9 inch again, if you want. the only issue is that they have to hold the spanner wrench differently because they have hoofs.

im telling you that your 9inch isnt strong enough for what you wanted to use it for.
i have blown up my 9 inch at least 5 times including gears, spiders, axles, third members, mini spools, center pins, and yokes. it aint ment to fly with cut 44 inch boggers. they BARELY survive with skinny 38 inch boggers and 450f/t torque. if you would like to put pictures up, i would be happy to help you, but your full of shit with you engine making 550 hp. go see proilators engine video thats been out for ages and that shows the potential of 500 hp. untill then go garble razorblades while fucking a jar of broken glass you douche canoe. kthanks have a great day.

love,
Halo
:)
:flipoff2:

In. Thanks for the chance... :flipoff2:

hey dick licker........ is that a 200 hp 331 with a 300 shot of nitrous on there, or what? where did you get it dynoed? i still have this unicorn for sale if you want, and his buddy my little pony will help you set the gears up on your 9 inch again, if you want. the only issue is that they have to hold the spanner wrench differently because they have hoofs.

im telling you that your 9inch isnt strong enough for what you wanted to use it for.
i have blown up my 9 inch at least 5 times including gears, spiders, axles, third members, mini spools, center pins, and yokes. it aint ment to fly with cut 44 inch boggers. they BARELY survive with skinny 38 inch boggers and 450f/t torque. if you would like to put pictures up, i would be happy to help you, but your full of shit with you engine making 550 hp. go see proilators engine video thats been out for ages and that shows the potential of 500 hp. untill then go garble razorblades while fucking a jar of broken glass you douche canoe. kthanks have a great day.

love,
Halo
:)
:flipoff2:


I thoughts seths truck was 600 horse?

IMHO hes probaly making in the 350hp range and those gears are saving his ass.

im sure thats whats been keeping my axles together. i want to run 4.XX gears, but the 3.50's are keeping the axles together....kinda. at the moment.

im sure thats whats been keeping my axles together. i want to run 4.XX gears, but the 3.50's are keeping the axles together....kinda. at the moment.

Are you going through driveshaft u-joints quickly running high gears?

you know i was, but it was evolution of finding what was breaking. truck came with 1310 joints.

first, the original yoke was stretched and i didnt know/realize it. so 10 ujoints later i replaced it with a used 1310 yoke. it leaked like a siv, so i machined it down and pressed a peice of tube over it to make it seal again, and ran that for a bit. i was blowing pinion ujoints EVERY time i went out. EVERY time. so i made a traction bar, and replaced the spring plates and ubolts. the traction bar helped so much i thought that was the fix. it was because the ujoint was going past its working angle and blowing up. so then i was blowing up the joint from the used yoke i made work stretching again. i just delt with it and replaced the joint almost every other trip. i dropped the rear pinion joint dropping the hammer on the street racing a jeep :evil:..... so it buggered the d/s ear up and made joints difficult to serivce but whatever.....

so fast forward a year of me wheeling the fawk outta it, and competing in a mud drag that i drove to, competed and drove home AND one 1st place in my class for the season :smokin: i replaced that rear joint prolly 10 times for preventitive maintance. blew it only 1 time in that time from whatever.

so about 3 months ago im playing follow the leader with a buddy and im trying to follow him up a 5-6 foot cliff at about a 80* angle with a crevass in the middle of it. i ended up ripping the ears off the rear d/s at the tcase. the front of the d/s never had an issue and only got replaced when i thought it was "time"......

so now i have a beatup d/s with a wasted slipyoke and beat up ears....

i had jesse at high angle build me a d/s with 1350 joints and put new 1350 yokes on the 205 and 9 inch. i competed in SCOR super truck shootout, and truly beat the shit out of the truck harder than any vehicle i have been in or owned. it was fucking rad. with the new 2.0 remote FOX shocks on the front end, i was able to hammer the shit out of it. hasnt broke yet, and i dont see it breaking :smokin:

im not sure yet i have to check, but i think i bent a front spindle, bent the front bumper, rear left spring hanger area of the frame, and the traction bar has a slight bend it in it i think so i have some stuff i need to do to it, but it runs, drives, and tracks straight down the road still :)


in the next few weeks when time permits, my buddy has a frame rack, im going to pull everything back to where it was or needs to be.... bumpers, frame, traction bar and some sheetmetal. im going to boatside it soon, so thats the next major project with it right now.

remember im a longbed with a flatbed on it, so i have like a 6 1/2 foot long d/s in the rear too :laughing:

front (knock on wood) havent had any d/s issues, and my 205 is 'sticked.... cause im a long bed i have to dig the front end often to follow my buddies jeeps thru the woods, but i have no issues going where they go.... horsepower and a good rig and driver overcomes jeeps :evil:

ok first off, irok cherokee and halogrinder ....... i don't give a fuck what either of you think because all ive been tryin to do is find out how do make my rear axle strong . it had nothin to do with if my motor is a stock block or not, which it is a stock block and yeah it is a 331 stroker with aluminum heads so fuck off and it does make 550 hp, and even if it didn't who gives a fuck besideds you two retards. and the only videos i have of the truck are when i first got it and it only had 40s on it with ifs and bone stock motor . so when i get a recent video you are more than welcome to see it. thanks wyldstallyn73 for not bein a dick like most of the others. it does have a block lift in the rear

Listen here shit stain, all I said was I want to see some video of this burning off the tires. If it has 550 horse cool, put up some dyno sheets and let us all see. otherwise I STILL CALL BS:shaking::shaking:
I have built a motor or 2. Prove me wrong that a little 331 will make 550 horse. Put up the dyno results. If and I say IIIIIIFFFF you have this much power, a dyno sheet is no problem right?

Listen here shit stain, all I said was I want to see some video of this burning off the tires. If it has 550 horse cool, put up some dyno sheets and let us all see. otherwise I STILL CALL BS:shaking::shaking:
I have built a motor or 2. Prove me wrong that a little 331 will make 550 horse. Put up the dyno results. If and I say IIIIIIFFFF you have this much power, a dyno sheet is no problem right?

he lost it, or they didn't give him one, or he has nothing to prove to you assholes.


whats stock 200 horse? I bet thats all he's got

Woooo hoooo. Look what I missed.


550hp isnt a easily obtainable goal with a 460 while still being streetable and youre dealing with 229 less cubic inches. That MFer has to scream to reach 550 and that isnt going to be much fun puttin' through the woods.

Its ok...retract your statement and agree with us that you have a respectable ~350hp and that your 9" isnt up to the task. This is me being nice.

my built 428CJ was dyno'd at over 490 wheel hp - it would snap driveshafts, axles - factory 31 and aftermarkets - all with 33" tires, i dont think you have 550 hp - i have build a few screamer SB fords for friends and customers, a 347, 331, and 393 - none made 550 hp - the closest was the 347 and it was blown 466 at the wheels -


you might have 450 - and again "might" - but i wouldnt mess with a 9" with 44s and "550" hp - mostly because with that much mass you should have a full floating axles, as the axle bearing on a 9" isnt made for that kind of stress, the axle shaft itself will flex under load, up and down. then the housing would have to be braced.


if you are bent on a 9" - and dont get me wrong i love them, them i would find a later housing ( later 70s-early 80s ) cut the outer ends off. find some 14 bolt spindles, eather at a JY or the aftermarket. sleave the housing ( most 9" are 3 3/8 od ) and brace the bottom, top, and rear of the housing with some .188 plate - get some 35 spline 300m shafts ( or cut down some dana 70s ) - a strange case and full spool - with gears in the 4.56-4.88 range, so the pinion head isnt really small - use a good synthetic oil and you should be ok for mudding -

Anyone here have Blu-ray? :laughing:

Before the flaming, i watched the extras for "batman begins"... Not sure if anyone knows, but the tumbler was real, had a 9" rear end, and 44" tsls. :laughing:


I got a laugh out of it, thought of this thread. :grinpimp:

if you are bent on a 9" - and dont get me wrong i love them, them i would find a later housing ( later 70s-early 80s ) cut the outer ends off. find some 14 bolt spindles, eather at a JY or the aftermarket. sleave the housing ( most 9" are 3 3/8 od ) and brace the bottom, top, and rear of the housing with some .188 plate - get some 35 spline 300m shafts ( or cut down some dana 70s ) - a strange case and full spool - with gears in the 4.56-4.88 range, so the pinion head isnt really small - use a good synthetic oil and you should be ok for mudding -

:eek:
Or you could just go to the junkyard and buy a $100 14 bolt and run it, rather than dumping a shitload of money into an axle that you still have a good chance of breaking...:flipoff2:

Anyone here have Blu-ray? :laughing:

Before the flaming, i watched the extras for "batman begins"... Not sure if anyone knows, but the tumbler was real, had a 9" rear end, and 44" tsls. :laughing:


I got a laugh out of it, thought of this thread. :grinpimp:

I saw some pics of it on here, one of the fab shops whos a vendor here had it in his shop :confused:

I thought a fab shop on here was building a replica.

is this it?

http://jalopnik.com/399892/man-builds-batman-tumbler-replica-single+handedly

Here is the other one.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=684180&highlight=batman

I saw some pics of it on here, one of the fab shops whos a vendor here had it in his shop :confused:

Thats a replica

kinda makes ya want to bolt a set of 44s up to each side of your 9", doesnt it? :eek::laughing:

You cant build a 9" on $1,000 bucks and expect it to step up to the abuse of 44" tires. Get your head out of your ass first off. If your set on a 9" rear axle your gonna have to get a spydertrax housing, then stuff it with a mega 9 with the bigger bearings, then for axles you are going to need the 40 spline moser shafts. This is what my buddy built and his rear axle would have no problem running your 44's. However, he's running a ford exploder v6 as well.

And as everybody has stated ditch the bitch axles and step up to some running gear thats gonna hold and not nickel and dime you every time you go out. Hell Im selling my dana 60 and dana 70 combo for $2000 and I know those would set you straight.

Lastly, you asked for help here and you've gotten the answers you need. So quite being a dumbass and listen to the folks who know what they are talking about.

P.S. I dont believe your running 550hp either.:flipoff2:

my built 428CJ was dyno'd at over 490 wheel hp - it would snap driveshafts, axles - factory 31 and aftermarkets - all with 33" tires,

exactly, motor dyno doesnt really mean shit when the power/torque has to go through a tranny,tcase and/or doubler, driveshafts,big diffs,tires and to the ground. rear wheel horsepower is what really counts. not this approximation of horsepower and trying to impress people with big numbers that he probably pulled out of his ass.

and 490 at the rear wheels is pretty impressive, but wheres the dyno sheets:flipoff2:

ok first off , my buddy built the motor for me , it was never dynoed . he has owned abrahams machine shop for longer than ive been alive and when he says its makin 550 horse, thats what its gonna make. to be honest i was only lookin to build a motor closer to the low 400 range and was supposed to be a windsor block. but he had parts laying around already for the right price to build this one. so thats what i did.and i appologize for gettin pissed off but any one of you would get atleast a little pissed off if someone was callin you a bullshitter. and i really don't care about all of the people sayin im a bullshitter cuz i know what my trucks got so i dont need people who have never even met me to try and tell me what it does have . i really just wanted some helpfull advice not critisizing what im tryin to do.

Maybe this will calm down and we can get back to discussing the issue here-

I am with everyone else on saying forget the 9 inch and go with at least 1 tons- hell, for the grand you want to put in that 9 you could scrape up a set of Rocks even. I understand you want to keep the lighter weight of the 9, but swinging 44's your first priority should be strength- even if you were running a 12 hrse Briggs and Stratton for an engine.

An old Eaton rear axle from a 60's-early 70's 3/4 ton GM might be a happy medium for you- plenty of people have beat the piss out of them with little to no breakage, and they look like they should be lighter than a 70 or 14 bolt (could be wrong on that though) Pretty shure they never came as 3.50 geared though.

Saw you registered on at MIOBI, why aint you posting, bitch?? :flipoff2:

it has a 302 that came out of a 84 mustang running consistantly in the mid tens .



ok first off , my buddy built the motor for me , it was never dynoed . he has owned abrahams machine shop for longer than ive been alive and when he says its makin 550 horse, thats what its gonna make. to be honest i was only lookin to build a motor closer to the low 400 range and was supposed to be a windsor block. but he had parts laying around already for the right price to build this one. so thats what i did.

.........so which one is it?

No dyno sheet=-bullshit. Always has and always will.

you dont just have a Dart block, AFR ported heads a huge bumpstick, stroker crank rods and pistons just laying around, unless it was used. whats the compression too? :rolleyes:

actually wyld, ive been meaning to post somethin on the make it or break it site about one of my buddies lookin for 2 39.5s tsls for a old chevy , ive heard about make it or break it before and have had some friends that went one weekend . they said its easy to get lost there and i kinda wanna go but they said theres hardly any mud there mostly rocks. my truck wont handle rocks though so i never went. have you ever been there? if you have , how is it?

ok first off, irok cherokee and halogrinder ....... i don't give a fuck what either of you think because all ive been tryin to do is find out how do make my rear axle strong . it had nothin to do with if my motor is a stock block or not, which it is a stock block and yeah it is a 331 stroker with aluminum heads so fuck off and it does make 550 hp, and even if it didn't who gives a fuck besideds you two retards. and the only videos i have of the truck are when i first got it and it only had 40s on it with ifs and bone stock motor . so when i get a recent video you are more than welcome to see it. thanks wyldstallyn73 for not bein a dick like most of the others. it does have a block lift in the rear


First of all you need to take an English class. Your posts look like a 3 year old puked up a bowl of Alphabet Soup.

2nd I too call bullshit on the 550 horse naturally aspirated 331. Complete bullshit. 500 horses have a tendency to split 2 bolt main 302 blocks. My dad and I just built a $8500 347 race motor for his Falcon and it was flirting with 500 horsepower. It's a 4 bolt main block, stud girdles, forged crank, I-beam rods, we're running iron heads (per vintage rules) and a .587" lift, ~310* duration, 106* lobe separation mechanical roller cam. Oh yeah it's making ~485 at 6500 RPM. Yes, I have the dynosheet.

So yes, as someone who has seen his fair share of small block Ford racecar engines I can call you're entirely full of shit. This thing is so unruly from idle to 3000 RPM you would have trouble driving it anywhere on the street. 550 HP isn't too crazy from something in the 400 CID range, as that is about 1.2 HP per CID. What you are claiming is almost 1.75 hp/cid which is pushing it naturally aspirated.

This whole thread was about a 9" Ford build up. If you are just concerned about horsepower, buy a 14 bolt / Dana 70 / Sterling 10.25 and be done with it.

they said its easy to get lost there and i kinda wanna go but they said theres hardly any mud there mostly rocks. my truck wont handle rocks though so i never went. have you ever been there? if you have , how is it?

I go there for nearly every outing we have. Your buddies got things backwards in my opinion- theres very little for rocks, but mudholes are abundant, and when it rains, the whole place is a giant mud slick. I am know as Defecater on the website.

sounds like fun wyld, i may have to go out there later on this month . i have a few things left to put together on my truck, but i think i could make it out there , the only place we have to go play around here is a place called harbor road in davenport but everytime we go we end up leavin with tickets for trespassing and mud on the road so we've been lookin for somewhere to go

First of all you need to take an English class. Your posts look like a 3 year old puked up a bowl of Alphabet Soup.

I don't care who you are....thats funny right there!!!

ok first off , my buddy built the motor for me , it was never dynoed . he has owned abrahams machine shop for longer than ive been alive and when he says its makin 550 horse, thats what its gonna make.


I got some shit laying around the shop that I threw together into a 9 incher.
It should be tough as hell and it weighs in 27lbs lighter than stock when filled with gear lube!!
I had to do some hunting for the 3:50 gears but I found a set in a customers 2 wheel drive truck and I swapped them out. I am pretty sure he won't notice. :eek:

That being said, I wasn't quite sure it would hold up to 550 horse so I called the owner of Abraham's Machine Shop and told him what I did, he said as near as he could figure it should be good for 600+....so there ya go.

I would let it go for $750.00 and I live a couple hundred miles away so I can deliver it to ya for $25.00!





Also got for sale:
75 acres of the best muddin ground in the Quad Cities - $100.00 per acre
1 low mileage goose that lays golden eggs - $75.00

...and 1 slightly used crack pipe for free, you just pay shipping!! :flipoff2:

Nevermind

ok first off , my buddy built the motor for me , it was never dynoed . he has owned abrahams machine shop for longer than ive been alive and when he says its makin 550 horse, thats what its gonna make.

Got in late on this one....

This shit is funny, absolutely fawking amazing.

Here all this time, I thought that engine dynoes (or chassis) were the means of measuring an engines HP/TQ output.

But I guess that is just money we have all been wasting, a machinist that tells you what HP figures your motor "will make" is more than good enough for me.:laughing::laughing::laughing::shaking:

Seriously though, this is starting to sound like "mah buddy got a 350 big block in his 3/4 ton stepside that makes 600 hp and its all stock. Came from the factry that way...(spits chew tabacco on the ground), its got NOS, flames on the hood and a factry blower. And look right there, them there bulls balls hanging uner the rear bumper came factry too. Oh, and that 350 big block, yep, I got one o' them thangs in my Mustang too, dang thang got lots o' power"


:shaking:

shooooot aint makin 600 howsepower 'less you got a fowbolt main AND a sixfitty doublepumper in thar..... anyone knows that man

i hope thats not ur girl there in that pic GMC cuz that bitch is ugly as fuck. i think she may be a guy

i hope thats not ur girl there in that pic GMC cuz that bitch is ugly as fuck. i think she may be a guy

FAIL!

Have fun busting your bitch ass 31sp 9"

i hope thats not ur girl there in that pic GMC cuz that bitch is ugly as fuck. i think she may be a guy

wow, you aren't very smart at all are you? have fun playing the skin flute loser.

:shaking: people were trying to help you fuck face. now your done. :laughing:

HEY FUCKTARD!

1) It pisses me the fawk off that you would disgrace the best year of Ford trucks, the backbone social group of America, and a good starting point for an engine, all in the undeserved name you've taken. GTFO & give '79', 'redneck', and '460' a wide berth from this point forward.

2) I TOLD YOU in post #2 how to solve your problem. Obviously, you didn't follow the fawking instructions, you ignorant pus projectile. Start the fawk over, shitforbrains.

3) Have a nice day.:)

i hope thats not ur girl there in that pic GMC cuz that bitch is ugly as fuck. i think she may be a guy

yes, that is my wife. And whether she is hot or ugly is neither here nor there.

What strikes me funny is that you get a little good natured ribbing, and the only thing you can think to do is start ragging on my wife for being ugly?

Come on man, rag on a dude for his ugly welds, or his deer antlers mounted to his hood, but making comments about my wife?


Go fuck yourself. Grow up and quite being a whiney little cock snuggler.:shaking:

i hope thats not ur girl there in that pic GMC cuz that bitch is ugly as fuck. i think she may be a guy

......:laughing: dont kid yourself man. You were hoping it was a guy.


The last time you got a piece of ass was when your finger ripped through the toilet paper.

i just read through this whole thing a little late in the game but i think i have some comments.

1. you never broke your dana 44 front cause maybe you dont have a front driveshaft? i dunno but thats the easiest way not to brake something.

2. MAYBE and i say maybe cause i am guessing again that you have 550 foot pounds of tourqe and not horsepower your engine builder is old as shit and could be losing it and got horsepower and torqe mixed up i dunno thanks for the laugh.

3. also on the issue of your 9 inch i would definatly swap it out for a dana 35

i just read through this whole thing a little late in the game but i think i have some comments.


3. also on the issue of your 9 inch i would definatly swap it out for a dana 35

Can't agree more....full spool it as well.

Well i think this thread has gone well :laughing:

And BTW 79redneck460...trying to take a shot at someone calling you out for being an dumbass by insulting his wife is not only confirming what they were saying about you, but is also just plain pussy shit. I hope the goat youre fucking kicks in you in your non existent balls you stupid inbred fucktard. :bender::flipoff:


and GMC, your wife is most definitely :smokin: hot...:D

Cheers:beer::beer::beer:

I don't ever post, but I've been wheelin in the rocks for quite some time and know a thing or two about breaking stuff, but I have a few suggestions.
It doesn't matter if you have 550 hp or a 5 hp briggs and stratton. Your going to brake stock fronts and rears with 44's. I was breaking stuff with 35's and 200 hp in my bronco. Now I have a 450hp fuel injected windsor that is 11:1 and have to run race gas, I had to beef a few things up.

If you're going to be cheap, find a 1 ton axle for it. I spent the cash and put True Hi9's front and rear, chromemoly axles, CTM joints. Money was no object when they were built. If you want to run a 9" thats the only way to keep it alive. They are the strongest third member you can buy, and they keep the truck light. But you have to spend the cash.

actually i just bought 2.5 tons and tractor tires today so the old axles are bye bye now. thanks for the help though

actually i just bought 2.5 tons and tractor tires today so the old axles are bye bye now. thanks for the help though

Well, isn't that just damn par for the course.:shaking:

FAWKTARD!

actually i just bought 2.5 tons and tractor tires today so the old axles are bye bye now. thanks for the help though

Pics or BS again....
fawkwad:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

You whine about your axles breaking when a little fore thought or common sense would have revealed your problem. You bitch about trying to stay light weight; then you go with rocks (maybe, I want pics). You got your 550hp small block from a 10 second car then it was built for you by a machinist you know. You were given a good solution to your problem and then act like a 4 year old due to some well deserved criticism. All I have to say is please leave. I doubt you will be able to help breath some life (tech) in to the PBB.

I doubt you will be able to help breath some life (tech) in to the PBB.


Its quite obvious that he in incapable of doing that.

But better words are far too often not spoken enough.

Zukiford, rock on brother.

Quick little tid bit of insight with 550hp and 44's (tsl's/boggers/cut boggers, whatever), the minute you gernade that 9", and all the power goes to the front, you can damn well say bye-bye to that front end as well. I'm been doing comp. mud boggin for the last 5 years and everytruck that i've seen running 44's and 1/2 ton axles with any type of power, the minute they broke something inthe drivetrain, is the minute the opposite axle blew up. If you search my user name in youtube and click on the 2007 mud bog video bout half way through the big purple bronco (on 42" tsl's) is running a 6-700hp bronco (yes it was dyno'd, but no i do not have the dyno sheets :flipoff2:), he gernads a hub in the front d60, the resulting power getting set to the rear blows a rear 60 shaft, 2 years before that he was running 1/2 ton axles, almost everytime out he was blowing the diffs out of it.