Looks like with the auto tranny I will be needing to upgrade my brakes.

I can barely hold Kate still at idle while she is in 4low with my Cruiser setup.

Anyone fit one of these setups on their Cruiser?

Now you've got me wondering....
I'm pulling the 2f and stock tranny and going with a 4.3 vortec and the 4l60e auto. I've got front disks and rear drums. Plan to keep the stock Tcase and axles(4.88)
Am I headed for problems, brakewise?

I don't know about your setup, but I defianatly had problems this weekend keeping mine stopped when I loaded it up.

Hell, my rig was running at about 60% too.....

Nolen, Have you thought about just swapping out the clippers to the IFS V6 units? If the master will pump enough fluid, I would think this should do the trick. I understand some of the late 90's Dodge rigs had the fluid assist set up. (97-98 come to mind)

Good luck!

Don't come asking your "Bitch" for answers. :flipoff2:

I have D60's....big brakes....small booster.

Thanks anyway!

Nolen, thought about a larger brake master cylinder?

You should have plenty of boost. Just mabye not enough fluid being pushed...

Didnt JiMMy do this?

Are you sure its brakes and not a ton of torque combined with low gears. My rig runs at 108:1 and the brakes will not stop the engines in 1st gear low range. Otherwise I can put someone right through the windshield in any other gear at any speed. SM465 + 4:1 xfer case + 488 + 383 stroker = over powering the brakes.



Just a thought.

Originally posted by chevota01
Are you sure its brakes and not a ton of torque combined with low gears. My rig runs at 108:1 and the brakes will not stop the engines in 1st gear low range. Otherwise I can put someone right through the windshield in any other gear at any speed. SM465 + 4:1 xfer case + 488 + 383 stroker = over powering the brakes.



Just a thought.


That is the problem, so he needs more braking power..

Mine really is not stopping well at any speed.

Mace, I figured if I was going to the trouble of swapping masters and boosters, why not just do the hydro-boost.

My tbi equipped 2F, sm420, and stock r&p keeps running when I mash the pedal at crawl. If I stomp on it suddenly it will kill the motor.

So with your compound reduction and an injected motor that is gonna fight back to stay running, good luck finding a place for brakes big enough to bring it down.

I find that being able to grind down on the pedal while crawling, keeps the drivetrain loaded and smooths the application of power when I need it. Kinda takes the slop/backlash out of the drivetrain.

Now to answeer your question, my powerstroke has hydro assist brakes. It has a weird quirk when you are on the brakes and bump a driveway curb while turning. The steering kinda freezes for a split second. A second pump would eliminate this.

Nolen,
JiMMy(the Jerk) did the setup.. I searched and found his pic, but roundrocktom posted a cool

link (http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/HydroBoost.htm)

Hope that helps...

I doubt that this will make the difference in stopping that big. there is a TON of torque from an engine that does not want to idle down below a computer controlled set idle, and relatively small swept area. What you really need to do is setup some calipers with more piston area(Wilwood 6-pot calipers???) and a smaller bore master(that can handle the needed fluid volume) Although the pedal travel would be greater, the small bore M/C will boost the PSI, and the larger piston area calipers will translate this to greater clamping force...

i used it and it installed fine, gobs of grabbing and stopping power too, but then i broke the rod from teh pedal tot eh master being a dumb ass, and i disliked how you have zero brakes when teh engine is off, so i took it out and bought a wilwood racing master and have no problems stopping now, the master is made for pushing 6 piston calipers so ive got lots of pedal. jIMMy

Good info guys...I really like the comment about not having brakes without the engine running!

That could be a major problem with an Automatic!

Would an FJ-60 setup be a better Master/Booster than a FJ-40?

I think 80's had the best booster/master setup..

60's were the same as mini's I thought..

Ditto on the 80 set-up.

I have never seen a PS with hydro boost unless it's a Yankee thang, they use a vacuum pump, mounted on the drivers side head to supply vacuum and a standard vacuum booster.........
Butch

Nolen, If I can stop you should be able to, mine was marginal with the stock 40 and didn't improve with the 60, will ship if you want to try but the 2wd Taco does the job, single piston front and rear.....mine will grab you .....

Originally posted by coyote
Nolen, If I can stop you should be able to, mine was marginal with the stock 40 and didn't improve with the 60, will ship if you want to try but the 2wd Taco does the job, single piston front and rear.....mine will grab you .....

You say you have a 2wd Taco booster/master F/S?

Originally posted by texican
I have never seen a PS with hydro boost unless it's a Yankee thang, they use a vacuum pump, mounted on the drivers side head to supply vacuum and a standard vacuum booster.........
Butch

Butch...think 1-ton pickups...

Personally, as much as I'm stressing my PS trying to turn the boggers, I don't want any more stress on that poor PS pump! I think I'm gonna stick with a vacuum booster...gotta get one on there first! I'm getting sick of the manual brakes!

No I have a 60 set-up, master only, might still have the booster but don't think so, all I changed was to the 2wd taco master and she stops real good, in low I have to press good but that's what steep gearing does......

Originally posted by texican
I have never seen a PS with hydro boost unless it's a Yankee thang, they use a vacuum pump, mounted on the drivers side head to supply vacuum and a standard vacuum booster.........
Butch

My superduty has hydro boost plumed into the steering system. I can give myself "steering fade" by pumping the brakes a lot. Not really sure if I like that aspect of the truck...

this may be too simple to actually work, but the easiest thing to try is to buy some hi zoot pads front and back (assuming you currently have el-cheapo's). Alot of times just by changing grade and material of pads you can really change how a vehicle brakes. I know quite a few rally or street track racers that adjust front to rear bias by swapping pads alone. The expensive "super grip" pads with copper? flecks in them grab alot harder than the standard lifetime warranty pads. Probably won't last as long but it's not a daily driver. Definitely worth a try, imnsho!!

Originally posted by Aggro
this may be too simple to actually work, but the easiest thing to try is to buy some hi zoot pads front and back (assuming you currently have el-cheapo's). Alot of times just by changing grade and material of pads you can really change how a vehicle brakes. I know quite a few rally or street track racers that adjust front to rear bias by swapping pads alone. The expensive "super grip" pads with copper? flecks in them grab alot harder than the standard lifetime warranty pads. Probably won't last as long but it's not a daily driver. Definitely worth a try, imnsho!!

Typically, those pads are for racers.. they don't grip woth a flip until heated up. I've had quite a number of different pads on my old SCCA car, adn "race" pads aren't what you want on the trail AT ALL... El-cheapo all the way.

Originally posted by Eskimo


Typically, those pads are for racers.. they don't grip woth a flip until heated up. I've had quite a number of different pads on my old SCCA car, adn "race" pads aren't what you want on the trail AT ALL... El-cheapo all the way.

I absolutely disagree. I didn't say to use "racing" pads, rather try different brands and compounds- get the best you can buy for "increased stopping power."