Ok It finally happened. Cracked the frame at the rear spring hangers on both sides. Its straight right now (I think) but im not gonna wheel it till I do some plating. Now before anyone says anything I AM putting in a new frame in the fall. I just dont have the time for a huge project right now. I want to enjoy the summer. So what can i do?

thanks Dan

Try to avoid a straight vertical line. You will see some of this on OEM applications and it's not something to freak out about if you have to, but try to avoid it. If you look at how frames are lengthened from the factory on the FJ45 you can see how the patch is designed so that the weld or joint goes down at an angle. You can also see a similar technique on backhoes and undustrial equipment where two structural members are joined with a football shaped patch to relieve stress. Bicyle and motorcycle frames do this too with triangle shaped reinforcements on the downtube and headset junction. Often, they will have notches cut into them to relieve stress. Street rod frame work is done with similar methods as are streched limos and tow trucks.

Get the metal really clean. Use metal that is the same type and thickness as the frame is now. Welding in a big hunk if 3/8's plate will only require more heat and when in place will focus stress on it's edges and cause cracks because it will not be able to flex as much as the material around it. Most frame work needs about a 1/8 thick to maybe 3/16's piece of A36 structural steel. Probaly best to use MIG with .035 wire.

If your not a good welder with some training or experince behind you, leave this to someone else. Frame work, roll cages, seatbelt mount, etc are not goo things to learn welding...

-Stumbaugh

Stumbaugh is on the money. I would add:

1. Grind all the paint off the area around the crack. get a good light, and some paint thinner. wipe the solvent over the crack. This will show you where it starts and ends. take a center punch and mark the ends. now drill out the ends. Weld the crack up.

Then plate it.

There is a guy ?Buford? on this board who sells a nice looking kit to plate the rear. He's got an ad in the TT too.

If you are using the stock rear hangers, there are a few well known methods of reinforcing them. One involves a gusset from a plated area above the hanger to the hanger itself since it is leveraged off there.

I guess I should do this before mine cracks. Of course a rusty Candian frame will crack before a non-salt area US frame will....

HTH,

Jim

Thanks for the info guys. Im a ticketed welder So im ok with doing it myself. Hey TLCobsession your only about 45 minutes from my place, I bet you have "canadian" frames in your area aswell:D

Dan

Originally posted by crawlin cruiser
Thanks for the info guys. Im a ticketed welder So im ok with doing it myself. Hey TLCobsession your only about 45 minutes from my place, I bet you have "canadian" frames in your area aswell:D

Dan

NOPE!:flipoff2:


They don't use salt on the roads here. I can tell the difference between a truck that was in Bellingham, and one that was in Surrey from about 1/4 mile away.

Besides: I brought mine up from CA, and it had sat in a garage for 10 years with no engine. Frame rust was an unknown to me before I visited Canada (but I grew up in NY - I had just blocked rust from my memory...)

Jim

cool