I just bought (or rather BillaVista did for me) a front chev Dana 60 out of 1 ton chev dually 4x4. This is a donar for knuckles out on my hp60 ford dana 60.

I got a bunch of pictures of it, and to me it looks as though the stock wheels are VERY backspaced, like 5.5 inches on about 7 inch wheels. The weird thing is that the lock outs don't appear to stick out hardly at all, even though the outside edge of the rim is only about 1.5 ~ 2 inches beyond the wheel mounting surface. In other words, it appears to me that the outside edge of the lock out is only about 2 inches outboard of the wheel mounting surface.

Is this normal? Or does this particular axle have a different hub on it that increases the track width?

The reason why I ask:

I want to run the hp60 full width, but at the same time I want it to be reasonable enough that I can get away with driving to the trail without a glove box full of tickets. For this reason, I want to backspace the wheels as much as I can, WITHOUT having the lock outs stick out past the beadlocks (which would cause them to get hung up all the time).

From the way these lockouts look, it would appear that I can backspace my wheels majorly, say 5.5 inches or so. That would decrease my track width from the 69 wms to about 66 inches. I've run 64 inch track width before without getting nailed, so this should be fine.

OTOH, if these are special hubs which increase the WMS, then I will want to get normal hubs, then see how much I can backspace from there.

Hope this makes sense.

I am going to use 3/4 ton brakes, as soon as I can figure out what parts I need.

I have a picture which demonstrates what I am talking about, but my FTP server is down so I cannot post it. Is there someone who I can mail it to who will post the picture for me?

Thanks again for the help. Bottom line is I FOUND KNUCKLES for my hp60 swap!!! Whooo Hooo!!! (actually Bill found knuckles for my hp60 swap)

Chad

Originally posted by ChadLloyd
I just bought (or rather BillaVista did for me) a front chev Dana 60 out of 1 ton chev dually 4x4. This is a donar for knuckles out on my hp60 ford dana 60.

I got a bunch of pictures of it, and to me it looks as though the stock wheels are VERY backspaced, like 5.5 inches on about 7 inch wheels. The weird thing is that the lock outs don't appear to stick out hardly at all, even though the outside edge of the rim is only about 1.5 ~ 2 inches beyond the wheel mounting surface. In other words, it appears to me that the outside edge of the lock out is only about 2 inches outboard of the wheel mounting surface.

Is this normal? Or does this particular axle have a different hub on it that increases the track width?

The reason why I ask:

I want to run the hp60 full width, but at the same time I want it to be reasonable enough that I can get away with driving to the trail without a glove box full of tickets. For this reason, I want to backspace the wheels as much as I can, WITHOUT having the lock outs stick out past the beadlocks (which would cause them to get hung up all the time).

From the way these lockouts look, it would appear that I can backspace my wheels majorly, say 5.5 inches or so. That would decrease my track width from the 69 wms to about 66 inches. I've run 64 inch track width before without getting nailed, so this should be fine.

OTOH, if these are special hubs which increase the WMS, then I will want to get normal hubs, then see how much I can backspace from there.

Hope this makes sense.

I am going to use 3/4 ton brakes, as soon as I can figure out what parts I need.

I have a picture which demonstrates what I am talking about, but my FTP server is down so I cannot post it. Is there someone who I can mail it to who will post the picture for me?

Thanks again for the help. Bottom line is I FOUND KNUCKLES for my hp60 swap!!! Whooo Hooo!!! (actually Bill found knuckles for my hp60 swap)
Chad



seriously?? you're not a newby, but you really need to search on a simple question like this. It has been covered like 4,000,000,000,000 times, SO FAR.

it's because you got a DRW 60 not a SRW 60 EINSTEIN.

yeah I found it out already. What a PITA. Oh well, at least I got the knuckles, which so far have been almost impossible to find. Thanks for the info - and the kicks while I was down!

Anyone with useful info about this (ie: swapping the hubs, any idiosyncracies you found) let me know.

i got some useful info

boyce is gonna charge you $700 for SRW replacements
and http://www.wagonermachine.com/ is gonna charge you $250 to machine down your DRW hubs to SRW hubs:flipoff2:

try these links:
pics (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57959&highlight=dually+conversion)
more pics,scroll down (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=53053&highlight=dually+conversion)


edit: $250 is a bit steep. You should be able to find it locally done for less. Not to mention shipping those heavy bastards will cost alot!

Thanks guys, that DOES help a lot.

Aggro, you're right, I can't see anyone here charging that much .... well I CAN, but it would be in canadian dollars, so that's like 125$ to you guys. I know of at least 2 shops that can do it.

I don't see strength as being an issue, they look like they should be plenty strong. Does anyone think the lack of the wheel centering flange will make that much of a difference? Obviously the studs/lugs should center the wheel to a large extent, but I can see the flange doing that job also..... but seriously, we are talking about swampers on beadlocks, even if the wheels are off by 1/8 of an inch (and I cannot see them being that much off just because of the missing flange), that does not even come close to matching the out of roundness that normally exists in a swamper anyway, right?

Thanks again guys. Once again I am embarking on something I would never have dreamed of doing even a year ago, largely thanks for my friends locally and information from this board.

Regards,

Chad

where did newbie get 377 posts?
I am sure you should have asked Billa this question before you posted here without searching.

dude, just measure the existing wms wheel indexing flange and recreate it on the rms which will be your new wms. easy as pie.

Originally posted by Aggro
dude, just measure the existing wms wheel indexing flange and recreate it on the rms which will be your new wms. easy as pie.

good point, that'll work fine. In the pictures in the above 2 links, the first guy did not do that, and it appears to have worked for him, and the second guy appears to have done it, with good results. The second guy did not seem to have to machine nearly as much as the first.... anyway, overall I like your idea best, I will have it machined to match the existing wms surface. Thanks.

Keep in mind that I am not actually able to LOOK at this stuff yet, I'm on the other side of the country due to work put me here - so I'm trying to do figure out how to do this all over the internet using nothing but pictures, because once I finally return home and can see what I've bought I will only have a couple of weeks to get it all together in time for our next event. So I'm trying to predict what I need to do and order any parts I need so it'll all be there ready to go at the right time.

mj: whatever.

you will have to drill out the rotor stud holes and the hub rms for the larger shoulder of press in studs since they are currently held on by 9/16" coarse bolts. I have turned the wheel indicating ring into a converted dual hub for a daily driver- it has seen many onroad miles and is aok. make sure to face off the rms where the wheel will mount as it is not true since it is flame cut from the factory.