My 1995 xj is still overheating after $1200.00 at the mechanic shop. Here is what I did and what the mechanic did.

1995 XJ 4.0 4x4 AW4 235-75R15 BFG AT T/A all stock
Work done before taking to auto shop
REPLACED
• NEW RADIATOR – 3 CORE ALL STEEL
• NEW TOP & BOTTOM RADIATOR HOSES, BOTTOM HOSE W/COIL
• THERMOSTAT 195 DEGREES
• NEW COOLANT SENSOR
• NEW TEMP GAUGE SENDING UNIT
• NEW TWO HEATER HOSES FROM WATER PUMP TO HEATER VALVE
• NEW FAN CLUTCH
• NEW RADIATOR CAP
• NEW OVERFLOW BOTTLE, OLD ONE CRACKED
• ALL NEW HOSE CLAMPS

OTHER WORK DONE
PRESSURE TESTED SYSTEM, FOUND LEAK AT HEATER HOSE AND REPAIRED.
PRESSURE TESTED CAP, SEEMS OK
BURPED, RELEASED AIR FROM SYSTEM 3 TIMES.
COMPRESSION TEST – SEE ATTACHED
CHECKED PCM TEMP AGAINST GAUGE AND INFERED. PCM READING AT 208 GAUGE AT 218. INFERED +-1 SAME AS GAUGE.
COMPUTER SHOWED 219 WHEN AUX FAN CAME ON BUT GAUGE SHOWED 230.
COMPUTER SHOWED 208 WHEN AUX FAN WENT OFF BUT GAUGE SHOWED 218.


CONCERNS
SYSTEM WILL NOT KEEP COOL. AUX COOLING FAN DOES NOT COME ON AS IT USE TO. WOULD COME ON AT 210-215 NOW COMES ON 225-230.

HARD WIRED AUX COOLING FAN. WITHOUT RUNNING THE A/C IT STILL GETS ABOVE 235 WHEN COMING UP THE MORONGO GRADE.

THIS VEHICLE NEVER RAN HOTTER THAT 210-215 EVEN WITH THE A/C ON UNTIL THE RADIATOR WAS REPLACED.
DOES NOT JUST RUN AT A HIGHER TEMP IT GETS UP TO RED LINE COMES DOWN THEN GOES UP AGAIN DEPENDING ON DRIVING CONDITIONS.
TEST COOLANT TEMP SENDING UNIT AND TEST TEMP GAUGE.
TEST FOR LEAN FUEL MIXTURE
TEST PCM FOR ACCURACY
POSSIBLE NEW FAN CLUTCH IS BAD?
IF ALL ELSE FAILS COULD FIND ANOTHER CHEAP RADIATOR TO PUT IN AND TEST WITH.


TEST 1 & 2 ARE DRY, WITH OUT OIL IN CYL
TEST 3 & 4 ARE WITH OIL IN CYL

1995 JEEP CHEROKEE 4.0
COMPRESSION TEST ENGINE HOT
STARTED TEST WITH TEMP GAUGE AT 210
CYL TEST 1 TEST 2 TEST 3 TEST 4
1 130 130 149 145
2 140 140 175 170
3 140 140 155 153
4 140 145 155 155
5 149 149 160 160
6 125 125 135 137


Work done by auto mechanic



Job#1
Labor - 001 HEAD GASKET/VALVE JOB
Work Requested - Replace cylinder head gasket and $675.00
perform valve job as per previous inspection.
Work Performed - Drain fluids. Remove all necessary components to gain access to cylinder head, remove head and send to machine shop. Install all new gaskets, cylinder head and all removed components. Also remove and replace radiator cooling fan clutch. Fill engine with new fluids. Pressure test cooling system. Run engine to operating temp and check operation. Roadtest. Recheck for leaks.
Part - HS9076PT-2
Part - PLU412
Part - CFI85085
Part -- HAV10W30
Part - HAV-COOL
Part -- SVK-088
Labor - 001
Part - SVK-0551

cylinder head gasket set
spark plug
oil filter
engine oil
coolant
service kit
Work Requested - Machine head surface and grind valves and seats, install new valve seals, service kit

Note/Title -
***After above repairs were performed the engine was running on the warm side, about 2/3
guage, there seems to be a flow issue, removed water pump to inspect and found that the
air gap between the pump and the housing is too great, installed new water pump and
inspected the air cap between the impeller and the housing, the gap is less than half. Also
removed the radiator and removed derbis from the A/C condenser. We roadtested the
vehicle to Morongo and back, coming up the grade, with the air on the temp guage only
went up to just over 210 degrees. Engine runs well and at normal temp.
Part -- NWP 51-1639 new water pump

1.00 $58.39
Job Subtotal:

$1,180.46



Still keeps getting hotter and hotter if under a load, like climbing a hill which I have to do every day to get home. This is with the aux fan running, hard wired it, and without the a/c on.

The mechanic even swaped out the radiator. Took out my 3 core steel and put in a two core alum. That kinda rules out the rad as the problem.

what else would cause it to overheat when a load is put on it?

Thanks
Danny

Weak/worn aux fan? Look here. (http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTaurusFanInstall1.htm)
Could be a bad temp gauge. IR sensors are not so accurate, use a thermocouple. with my IR gun (1-30 distance to spot) there is a 15 deg difference from the thermocouple.

I was going to ask, how do you know vehicle is over heating? What is going on with vehicle? Also, as dumb as it may sound, have you given thought that your guage maybe bad? I assume your anti freeze stays clean.

The aux fan will keep the temp at 210;215 with out it on the temp keeps going up. I have wired a switch to the aux fan for testing. The gauge could be bad but the last test at the mechanic's showed the gauge was +- 2 of the ir tester.

The way I have been testing after replacing parts is to drive it down the hill which I have to drive daily for work. from my house I drive about 6 miles to the freeway then back. when I turn around at the freeway I turn on the aux fan with the switch, the temp is at 210. from that point the drive is more uphill than down then I get to the Morongo grade, it is all uphill now. the temp will keep going up with the aux fan on and no a/c. temp gets to 235-240 right before redline at top of hill, any more and I might have to stop. it takes about 3 more miles for it to cool down to 210 again. haven't checked the anti freeze yet only had it back since friday when the mechanic said all is well. NOT. first thing I did saturday is to road test myself and it did not pass.
Thanks

come on, help a brother out. :smokin:

Buddy of mine ran into the same problem in his XJ- turned out it was the h2o pump impeller came off of the shaft but I see that you have inspected the the pump already so that is probably not the case here. Try another gauge as others have suggested if at all possible; your mechanic should have solved the problem before you got it back otherwise its time to find another mechanic.

Ive read this over and over DAMN you spent a bunch of money you didnt need to.$1200.00 to find out the water pump wasnt flowing? ....It started running hot:
1. Check water ....free
2.Is water pump pumping....free
3.Is Tstat stuck.....12 bucks or so plus water
4. Is radiator nasty dirty inside... Free check
4A. Get radiator cleaned...50 -60 bucks
5. check fan clutch....free

You changed everything but the water pump, and then had the head rebuilt.
Was the original radiator very rusty? Since the head was off was the water passages very rusty? Try anther guage.
Is your electric fan pulling air the same direction the mechanical fan?

First of all I would never use a Steel radiator a copper one yes an Aluminum one yes. Water NO tap water HELL NO. Pre Deluted coolant. Now have you thought that maybe the little sender at the rear of the head ( on drivers side) may have gone goofy on you? I swapped a 4.0 in place of a 2.5 and a new sending unit from Napa was reading hot. I replaced it and its working perfectly. How do I know this. Think Infared thermometer.

i'm not familiar with the aw4, it's an auto right? may want to add an auto tranny cooler.

i have a 00 sahara with 4.0 and 32rh. i have 37x14.5 open countrys and 4.10 gears.
i have taken out the mechanical fan and replaced it with a 2 spd tauras fan and a dc controller. that fan will suck a small child through the grill. lol. when i run on I-10 at
about 70, it runs a little above 210. when i pull a trailer and or run the snowballs, it's
a little worse. the ambient temp has alot to do with cooling also. in the winter, i can
run it 70 on interstate and the fan doesn't even come on.

hope this helps