Engine removal help tips, 93 Dakota V6 [Archive]

Lloyd

07-31-2002, 07:49 AM

First tip: get some numbered tape, and label all the vacuum hoses and wires with where they go before disconnecting anything. It's so much easier than wondering (hours - days later, when you're exhausted and bleeding) where the hell does THAT go?

How long depends a lot on how prepared you are, working conditions, etc. I'd plan on a long hard day with stress if all goes well; with a weekend you should be OK; and over a long weekend it might even be comfortable. Spend some time studying it, and think through every step carefully before you start. Having to stop in the middle to go get manifold gaskets or replace a part that got yanked off because it wasn't disconnected will obviously make it take longer. Get all the parts, fluids and special tools; make sure they're actually the right parts, and make sure you've not missed anything before starting. Want a new clutch? Couldn't pick a better time to put one in. Clean a space about twice as big as you think you'll need, and lay everything out a few days in advance. Spend some time in the space with the parts/tools/truck just thinking about what you'll be doing and examining everything - it may seem a little silly, but really saves a lot of time and headaches.

Short block is block, pistons, crank, rods, bearings, etc. Long block has heads and valvetrain, sometimes more. Are your heads OK? How many miles? Do you feel like swapping your old heads onto the new engine? Short block will save you a little money; a long block will save you a little time.

It's a often a lot easier to pull/put the engine and tranny together if they're jammed in tight against the firewall. Get it on 4 jackstands, high enough to get under it and work comfortably. Disconnect and remove the battery first. Drain all fluids, and pull the radiator. Some people like to pull the grille so they've got a pretty straight shot out/in; makes it easier but may not be necessary. Pull the alternator, brackets, etc. You can usually leave the hoses on the AC compressor and just tie it to something, out of the way; same for the PS pump, but you need to be more careful with orientation so it doesn't dump fluid. Pull both driveshafts, drop the tcase, get the shifter and clutch linkage disconnected, backup light wires, etc. (probably no VSS in '93) and you may or may not need to pull a crossmember to lower the back end of the tranny. Get a tranny jack under the back end of the thing, and a chain on the engine - before starting to loosen the mounts. Make sure that everything really is disconnected. Manipulate the jack, hoist, and mounts to transition the load smoothly, pause and double-check that everything really is disconnected. Now lower the back end of the transmission, lift the front end of the engine, and work it out gently and carefully. Exchange whatever parts need to be moved from the old engine to the new one, and reverse the proceedure.

I'm sure that I've forgotten some things. If you underestimate the job it'll kick your ass - but if you're prepared, it should go well. Questions? Good luck to you.

cpousnr

07-31-2002, 11:02 AM

Thanks for the info. Wow, a straight talker on this board!:D

160K, clutch condition unknown. Valves, well, they rattled before unsure what the breaking rod did to them. So considering the long block rather than do heads later plus less assembly.

Distributor come in a long block?

So basically, support the tranny, disconnect drive line and engine mounts, chain the engine, drop tranny to cant engine/tranny and pull it out.

Yeah it is fairly tight in there. Do have the Haynes manual.

Thanks again, but still taking suggestions from people that have done that configuration if they exist.

Guess my son will have to do a lot of side concrete jobs to dig himself out of this one. . .$$$$ wise.


Pirate4x4.Com > Brand Specific Tech > Dodge > Engine removal help tips, 93 Dakota V6 PDA : Engine removal help tips, 93 Dakota V6 cpousnr 07-30-2002, 06:11 PM Ok long story short, sucked water, broke rod. Gonna replace engine, never done it, would like some tips. Better to get short or long block, whats the difference? Better to pull engine and tranny, seems like real tight quarter to get to bolts just pulling engine. Any help is appreciated, trying to save my son the install costs, it is costing him enough right now. How long a job? any tips greatly accepted! 93 Dakota 3.9, manual 4X4 is the configuration. Lloyd 07-31-2002, 07:49 AM First tip: get some numbered tape, and label all the vacuum hoses and wires with where they go before disconnecting anything. It's so much easier than wondering (hours - days later, when you're exhausted and bleeding) where the hell does THAT go? How long depends a lot on how prepared you are, working conditions, etc. I'd plan on a long hard day with stress if all goes well; with a weekend you should be OK; and over a long weekend it might even be comfortable. Spend some time studying it, and think through every step carefully before you start. Having to stop in the middle to go get manifold gaskets or replace a part that got yanked off because it wasn't disconnected will obviously make it take longer. Get all the parts, fluids and special tools; make sure they're actually the right parts, and make sure you've not missed anything before starting. Want a new clutch? Couldn't pick a better time to put one in. Clean a space about twice as big as you think you'll need, and lay everything out a few days in advance. Spend some time in the space with the parts/tools/truck just thinking about what you'll be doing and examining everything - it may seem a little silly, but really saves a lot of time and headaches. Short block is block, pistons, crank, rods, bearings, etc. Long block has heads and valvetrain, sometimes more. Are your heads OK? How many miles? Do you feel like swapping your old heads onto the new engine? Short block will save you a little money; a long block will save you a little time. It's a often a lot easier to pull/put the engine and tranny together if they're jammed in tight against the firewall. Get it on 4 jackstands, high enough to get under it and work comfortably. Disconnect and remove the battery first. Drain all fluids, and pull the radiator. Some people like to pull the grille so they've got a pretty straight shot out/in; makes it easier but may not be necessary. Pull the alternator, brackets, etc. You can usually leave the hoses on the AC compressor and just tie it to something, out of the way; same for the PS pump, but you need to be more careful with orientation so it doesn't dump fluid. Pull both driveshafts, drop the tcase, get the shifter and clutch linkage disconnected, backup light wires, etc. (probably no VSS in '93) and you may or may not need to pull a crossmember to lower the back end of the tranny. Get a tranny jack under the back end of the thing, and a chain on the engine - before starting to loosen the mounts. Make sure that everything really is disconnected. Manipulate the jack, hoist, and mounts to transition the load smoothly, pause and double-check that everything really is disconnected. Now lower the back end of the transmission, lift the front end of the engine, and work it out gently and carefully. Exchange whatever parts need to be moved from the old engine to the new one, and reverse the proceedure. I'm sure that I've forgotten some things. If you underestimate the job it'll kick your ass - but if you're prepared, it should go well. Questions? Good luck to you. cpousnr 07-31-2002, 11:02 AM Thanks for the info. Wow, a straight talker on this board!:D 160K, clutch condition unknown. Valves, well, they rattled before unsure what the breaking rod did to them. So considering the long block rather than do heads later plus less assembly. Distributor come in a long block? So basically, support the tranny, disconnect drive line and engine mounts, chain the engine, drop tranny to cant engine/tranny and pull it out. Yeah it is fairly tight in there. Do have the Haynes manual. Thanks again, but still taking suggestions from people that have done that configuration if they exist. Guess my son will have to do a lot of side concrete jobs to dig himself out of this one. . .$$$$ wise.