the 22re in my 85 4runner is acting up. did some searchign but didn't come up with much other than replacing the cold start adjuster or whatewver it was called.

Symptoms: pulled rig out after cross-over install. ran fine for about a week.
Day 1:wouldn't start on first turn of key. no problem so i tried again. third time it started but ran really rough (tack jumping from under 1K-over 4k very eratically). give it little gas it dies. let it run it dies after about 3 minutes. i then went inside and let it cool down. came back out after a few and it started up perfectly and purred right at 1K.

Day 2:didn't start it till mid afternoon, it started right up.

Day 3:same as day one

Day 4: same as day one

Day 5: will not start at all, it tries to crank over, but it just can't do it.

first bit of help i know that i need, is how do i short the code check near the coil so i can check my codes??

Get an ohm meter and check your TPS, also do a visual check on the air inlet tubes, sounds like the bellows may be cracked and you now have a fat vaccuum leak.
Got gas in the tank? Plug wire all connected?

the tach jumping ussually means a distributer prob. did u touch any wires going to the dist.?

i would say check your vacuum lines, distibuter and your tps and it should be fine. to me it sounds like your tps.

good luck!

This might come across as silly, but when you performed the sas did you disconnect the battery? If you were welding on the chassis with the battey connected you may have effected the ECU, or another sensor.

now tim, just because i don't know how to check codes it doesn't mean i'm extremely stupid. :D :D i did disconnect the battery. the intake tube could be the problem. i had a large crack that formed but i thought i had that fixed. it could also be the distributor(one time when it wouldn't start i jiggle all the wires and it did) i have a new distributor and plugs ready to go in as of last week, just havn't gotten around to it. i just asked since when i searched a guy seemed to have the exact same problem yet none of the things i was gonna try worked for him. i'll get right on th eohm meter and check the TPS. thansk guys for the help.
guess i'll hit the junkyards to look for a non-cracked intake.

Check the coil and especially wires.

Tim @DOA may have the answer.Even if you disconnect the battery you really should disconnect the computer as well.A friend did quite a bit of welding on his toy and had the battery disconnected but still fried the puter.He did the normal checks including replacing the TPS with a known good one and found that the puter had fried.On another note I have also found that most Japanese vehicles that have an erratic tach often have a faulty diode in the alternator often two.They will still charge but not fully.This could also effect how the vehicle runs.Do you also have any strange lights showing up on the dash?

i'm hoping to get a little work done tomorrow before work. but to answer the latest questions:

maybe i did fry the computer, but if so, why did it run fine for nearly a week and a half?? there are also no strange lights on in the dash. when it did run, but was having problems starting, the check engine light never came on.

I wasn't implying that the ecu is fried, but rather "effected" by surge. I asked if the battery was disconnected, not implying that you lack intellegence, but for my own info. From what I've seen, and I've seen alot, most people do not disconnect the battery when welding chores are being performed. This can damage the ecu, and in other cases nothing happens adversly. I would pull the efi fuse for starters, and perform a process of elim. from there.
The tps should not effect starting because the reading is infinity on startup, this is why you have a CS inj & timer.

Well, there you go. Now you just have to find an ohmeter that can read "inifinity". :flipoff2:

i know you weren't saying i was stupid tim. i really appreciate your help since you really do know what your talking about. it's not everyday you can get info from someone with so much experience with these engines. i was just joking around about the me being stupid thing. i guess i should take this all a bit more seriously.

Getting a code 6 from the ecu.

RPM SIGNAL-NO SIGNAL TO ECU FROM DISTRIBUTOR ("Ne" OR "G") AFTER ENGINE HAS BEEN CRANKED

--DISTRIBUTOR/CIRCUIT

--STARTERSIGNAL CIRCUIT

--IGNITER/IGNITER CIRCUIT

--ECU


***UPDATE***
from here i went looking at the wires fronm the coil to the ECU. it just so happens somehow that wire fell down on to my headers and the underside was melted/burned. wires all exposed. i picked them up off the ehaders and it started fine. all i ahd to do was open my eyes and move a few wieres around. gonna go ahead and splice in new wires and reroute it way away from the headers. thanks fro all help.

yardsale, i will say you were right,but i did think you meant sparkplug wires.

and what did I say to check? (The easy thing.)