NO MORE BIRFIELDS!!! NO MORE GIRLFRIEND!!! I FEEL LIKE A NEW MAN!!!!!!!!

http://www.rockrawler.com/1tonside.jpg
http://www.rockrawler.com/1tonfront.jpg
http://www.rockrawler.com/1tonrear.jpg

when will it be hammers ready?:D

Dude, you're way ahead of me :( Looks good :flipoff2:
You keeping the 14-bolt drums and and shaving it:confused:
What spring plate did you use on the pass. side front D60 ?

Hammers ready ~ 2 weeks max if everything goes right.... and about the drums, I am sorry to say that they are staying, I like it better shaved ........ BALD...... Oh the axle, yeah, I am gonna shave it. I was debating disks in the rear or hydro assist front with the 2 inch ram.......hummmmm I decided the ram would be better for now....... I mean I will still be able to stop. So now worries there! and Thanks Vova

remove rear drums and cap rear line. Youll have more than enough front brakes to stop that thing. Then when you can find some 3/4 ton 4x4 front disks from a chevy at the pic n pull put them and their caliper and braket on the rear.

rear disks:
$100 for the brakets from Shaker
$150 for the new brake parts (73 Chevy rotors-pads-and calipers)

Yeah I know boys..... I am in this little thing called a predicament.....I figured the 14 bolt stuff like Vova said for $250, but then I found out that "west texas off road" will do my box (mill/tap) for $150 then lines and ram from Northern Tool are $100, that equals out to the same. I am running a spool/welded in the front, so I am either going to have to lift weights, take roids, or get the hydro......you guys hear my dilemna now?? I am no where near a high rolla', shit I had to sell a liver and some of my super sperm to get where I am now :D

:flipoff2: too bad you wont be ready for the big run to the hammers this weekend:flipoff2:

I know, but at least I got my shit together, and it'll be ready for the cooler weather.....you know.........like 99 or so......:D

What was the d60 out of big guy?

What ya have to pay for it and the 14 bolt?

Looks like it fits pretty good did ya have to narrow it?


Ya 99 would be cooler...lol

gary

He whitebro... can I beg a couple of shots of your front bumper's frame mounts and how the winch plate is attached to the rest of it off of you?

My front bumper failed catastrophically this last weekend (weld tore it's self off of frame at full winch-pull and the bumper is now twisted all to hell)... so I need to build me a new one. And I like yours.

EDIT: I tried a search (Thought you had posted your front bumper before) but apparently you've never used the word "Bumper" in a single post. :(

Originally posted by GaryGreco
What was the d60 out of big guy?

What ya have to pay for it and the 14 bolt?

Looks like it fits pretty good did ya have to narrow it?


Ya 99 would be cooler...lol

gary

Gary, I paid an ARB (brand new) and 400 cash for the 60 front, and 160 for the rear 14 bolt. Thats it. No narrowing, I am just going to deal with the 3 inches on the left side. the brake rotor actually lines up with the outside of the fender!!! SUPA WIDE ! and what do you mean about 99?

That thing looks good man..........I take it that's what my new front springs came off of?????? ........and buy the way I got the springs yesterday.....Thanks............At least I know my money is going to a good cause...........hydro steer:D :D

Originally posted by TNToy
He whitebro... can I beg a couple of shots of your front bumper's frame mounts and how the winch plate is attached to the rest of it off of you?

My front bumper failed catastrophically this last weekend (weld tore it's self off of frame at full winch-pull and the bumper is now twisted all to hell)... so I need to build me a new one. And I like yours.

EDIT: I tried a search (Thought you had posted your front bumper before) but apparently you've never used the word "Bumper" in a single post. :(

Sorry about the pics not being accessable. Maybe you can try the website www.rockrawler.com, otherwise, I will do my best. I am in the middle of moving out (kicked the chick to the curb) and am going to be pretty busy. I am on it. Thanks

Originally posted by TNToy
He whitebro... can I beg a couple of shots of your front bumper's frame mounts and how the winch plate is attached to the rest of it off of you?

My front bumper failed catastrophically this last weekend (weld tore it's self off of frame at full winch-pull and the bumper is now twisted all to hell)... so I need to build me a new one. And I like yours.

EDIT: I tried a search (Thought you had posted your front bumper before) but apparently you've never used the word "Bumper" in a single post. :(

Sorry about the pics not being accessable. Maybe you can try the website www.rockrawler.com, otherwise, I will do my best. I am in the middle of moving out (kicked the chick to the curb) and am going to be pretty busy. I am on it. Thanks

Thanks
WOW 160 for 14 bolt ...geez sweettttttttttttt



The 99 was degrees ...lol

I live in the Anaheim Area near the 91 and 55 it gets pretty hot here to some days well over 100.
But i grew up in Tucson,Az so 100 aint shit...lol

115 was normal .....lol but it was a dry heat...dry my ass..
anything over 105 is just too hot to work or live in..


Which one sticks out the 3" ? the front or rear ?


gary

The front is the one that sticks out, and its on the drivers side because it has a cast spring perch on the pass side, so you can't really change it, unless you run the hangers outboard of the frame. I just don't want to jeapordize he structural integrity of the frame with that 500 lb axle.......and about the 14 bolt, you can take a little road trip to Chula Vista, and get one also!! 160, thats it!! I am going to get one for the Blazer (tow rig) soon, as well.

whitebrowithafro is your suspension (leaf springs ) still the same ones as you have listed on your site? AP 4.5

and are you sticking with the 38" or going to something else?

and is your bed still for sale , and would you ship?

>and is your bed still for sale , and would you ship?

you looking for a bed TechG ?

i've got the one off my 88 std cab, it's in somewhat decent
shape if ya want. just come and get it ...

- jack

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
Sorry about the pics not being accessable.
I can see them fine, they're just too far back to show how it's constructed. I would just like to see some close-ups of the mount, and how you tied the winch plate into the tubing.

I've got the overall idea figured out, just wanted the details. I'd just like a couple pics whenever you manage to find the time: I'm not going to be able to build the bumper for a while yet...

there is no :jealous: smilie, so ill have to settle for this one:flipoff2: ----->nice!

Thanks Booger, I will posting more pics as I get things together....and TNT, I will get you some tomorrow (friday). I actually went the ghetto route on the bumper, and used channel iron(heavy) then 3/8" on the sides, then ran the tubes from there. You'll see tomorrow.

Sahweet!

Why does this thing always look like it just rolled off the production line. Body looks way clean and straight.

Keep the pics coming...

...Because it did, pretty much. If you visit his site (URL looks a lot like another well known site: http://www.rockrawler.com ) you'll see that he rolled it, swapped a new cab onto it, and then had it repainted. That's why. :p

Oh, and thanks for taking bumper pics for me. Cheap and heavy are good, around here. It has to be expendable, and capable of taking many hits, which result from a combination of our terrain and my lack of driving skill. :flipoff2:

hey whitebro.. what gear ratio are you runnin in those chunks?

I'm max'n out the 14 bolt with 5.13's.........so the 60 has to follow :D The only shitty thing about the 14 bolt, why can't someone at least make a 5.38???? hummmm its a mystery.....

how does it go down the road w/ that ratio?

so you put the axle underneath, but left the welded perch as is?

and just mounted that to your spring, so it hangs out further on one side?

out of curiosity does this do anything to your steering?
ackerman angle?
toe in, toe out?
inside wheel moving faster on corners
crabbing?
truning circle?

im merely curious, if its offroad only, then these problems, probably arent of any concern, does anybody know?

It should flex better now with those anchors attached to your springs:flipoff2: Serieously, if I wasn't worried about the extra weight for snow, I would have done the same thing.

http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/~vovae/dcp_1621.jpg

This is what I did to run the 14-Bolt.

http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/~vovae/dcp_1627.jpg

After pic. Took off about 1.25" :D

First of all.......Vova, nice job, just wish that I had the resources for that.......2Stroke ~ it doesn't go down the road yet..... I am still in the process, still have to do the hydro, mount the front axle, and avalanche high steer arms/heims! Will let you know when I do though! And BJ on Roids, the only thing that is finished, is the rear axle.....its mounted to the truck, but the front is only positioned in place.....the perch is going to be postioned accordingly, so about the questions, I wouldn't know yet......I would never drive it as it sits right now.....I still have a few things to finish.....:D

The tie rod and drag link.......
Its Avalanche heims (3/4") and sleeves, 1 3/8 x .133 wall sleeved inside of 1 5/8 x .120 wall.........FATTY :D now I just need some misalignment sleeve's
http://www.rockrawler.com/tierod.jpg
http://www.rockrawler.com/draglink2.jpg

will those arms clear the Hummer wheels?
Are those Avalanche arms?
Are you running new brakelines and Master?
You're ahead of me :( I better get to work!

Where'd you get the double shear pitman arm?

Looks like he made it;)

Vova ~ Yes, they are Avalanche steering arms, and I haven't a clue if they will fit the Hummer rims....I guess if you bought them, tried them out and they didn't work, just send em back. Or put the rims on and draw an imaginary line from the knuckle forward, and guesstimate if they'd work for ya. And about the brake lines, I had 40" long custom brake lines made with Toyota ends (10mm) on one side and GM ends (3/8) on the other. The master I am going to test out. If it comes down to it, I might just put a box like yours on. I have the Land Cruiser type master on there now........we'll see.

Wilson ~ The arm was fabricated like the AllPro's. I took 2 pieces (from AP...the top and bottom) then gusseted it with some of my own 3/8". I have been running it for 6+ months, and haven't had any problems at all.

Rims, gears, and driveshafts will be ready to go on Tuesday!! :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

Oh and I have to cut those damn u-bolts, those babies are WWAAYYYY to long!!!

Where are you going to put the ram for the hydro?? My steering is very similar on my D44, and the only place I see mounting the ram is if if I make a new diff cover out of 3/8" with a mount fabbed into it.

I am going to mount the tube end of the ram to the center of the housing, and on the drivers side knuckle (where the old tie rod mounted). Rob Roggy has a setup similar, so I wouldn't see why it wouldn't work
http://allprooffroad.com/xtoys/jv123001/8229.jpg

I just got shafted!! Toy shaft with 1350 1 ton slip yoke and u-joint. Rear gears are in, rims mounted......just working on grinding those calipers in the front. Man that sucks!
http://www.rockrawler.com/shafted.jpg

lets see some PICS of the whole truck.

Vova, if you can, DO NOT go with 15 inch rims, unless you are running a 2" BS on em. I grinded the caliper on the 60 ALL DAY!!!
If fawkin sucked. Then I went to bleed the system (brakes) and my buddy and I fawked up the Master Cyl. (threads) had to go get a tap and try again tomorrow. Here are the pics from yesterday. I will get some better ones tomorrow!

http://www.rockrawler.com/tonsside.jpg http://www.rockrawler.com/tonsfront.jpg

Sweet....................;)

I'm going to run Hummer wheels when i find some, but for now i have 16.5's.

Looking good man, I should be done tomorrow, will take more pics then. Yeah, I don't recommend the 15" wheel thing.....I took off about 3/8" off the whole side of the caliper. I thought that I was going to have to jeopardize the integrity of the caliper, but it ended up working out. Thank god they are fatty calilpers!! Also, I didn't realize that the diff in the rear takes about 4 quarts of gear oil!! A whole lot different than the 2.3 that the toy takes.

what did you use for the u-bolt and plate on the pass side?

I made a plate out of 3/8" steel, and the ubolt was made by a shop.......5/8" ubolt by ?? I couldn't tell ya. I got it way to long. I read up on it through another post and it was wayyyyyyy to long.
I will measure it if you need me to, to make sure that you get the right shiat....just let me know.

For a heads up, the 93 Toy Master cylinder WILL NOT BE SAFE to use with the 1 tons. You have to slam the pedal to the floor to get those babies to stop. So word to the wise on that one! Final pics are here!!--- minus a front driveshaft/shocks/hydro......they'll be done soon!
http://www.rockrawler.com/tonsdone1.jpg
http://www.rockrawler.com/tonsdone2.jpg
http://www.rockrawler.com/tonsdone3.jpg
http://www.rockrawler.com/tonsdone4.jpg
http://www.rockrawler.com/tonsdone5.jpg

Man that thing is Baaadddd!! YOu have plans for bigger tires in the near future?

The money tree is still growing!! I am probably going to run 42's as soon as I can........

That things looks insane! Call Scott and get a adaptor plate to run the chevy master.

which one are you using and which one works? I need it to tell Pep Boys the right one?? :D

are those bitches fullwidth???.....truck looks fawkin sweet man:D

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
which one are you using and which one works? I need it to tell Pep Boys the right one?? :D

I think the master he is using is off a 76 chevy 3/4 ton. Here is a link to the thread when he installed it.
That thing looks sweeeeeet.
weekend project (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=72972&highlight=weekend+project)

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
Hammers ready ~ 2 weeks max if everything goes right.... and about the drums, I am sorry to say that they are staying, I like it better shaved ........ BALD...... Oh the axle, yeah, I am gonna shave it. I was debating disks in the rear or hydro assist front with the 2 inch ram.......hummmmm I decided the ram would be better for now....... I mean I will still be able to stop. So now worries there! and Thanks Vova

Dude are you getting any sh!t from the local la migra? Vista O'side? I'm wondering if I should do something drastic to the Samurai:bounce2:

MOFUGRA ~ Yeap, they are fullwidth 69 front/ 67 rear

JOHN H ~ Thanks

Bill ~ Nope, but its only been on the road for 2 days! I don't even attempt the freeway.....but I sweat every one I see. I am just waiting for one of them to bite. They are probably wondering what the hell it is, or even what might be wrong with it. It kinda helps that my dad is the boss of all of the local CHiP'ies!!! :D

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
MOFUGRA ~ Yeap, they are fullwidth 69 front/ 67 rear


So the drivers side is sticking out 3" further then the pass side:eek:
i thought you had it cut down.

Yup. Looks like it sticks out farther on the driver side.

I don't see spending $$ on something that is going to better in the long run. I went full width for a reason, and wasn't about to relocate the shackle mounts and etc. just to jeopardize structural integrity. fffffaaaaawwwwwkkkk iiiiiitttttttt!!!! I am sure that it'll work just fine!

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
I don't see spending $$ on something that is going to better in the long run. I went full width for a reason, and wasn't about to relocate the shackle mounts and etc. just to jeopardize structural integrity. fffffaaaaawwwwwkkkk iiiiiitttttttt!!!! I am sure that it'll work just fine!


I don't see how the one side sticking out 3" further is better in the long run? OR are you planning on chopping it and just ran out of cash or something? You are setting it up for rock crawling still and not sprint car right...:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Looks good otherwise.;)

Lets see......hummmm........hydro, or cutting it down 3 inches, hummmmmm, thats a tough one. 3 inches ain't shit!! Just so everyone can say "cool.....you had it chopped hah?" and I say "yeah.......cool hah?" Give me a fawkin break, this just gives me more stability when going over shit on the right side, oh frickin well. :flipoff2:

You could just get the hydro and then when you get the mula chop it that 3 inches later. All you would have to do is put a spacer in your ram to shorten the stroke some. Wouldnt be a big thing.

Do ya really think that there is any benefits? Seriously? I don't have the hook ups on anything, especially axle splining, cutting, etc. So if any of you out there want to drop 500 bucks in my lap, then get on it......otherwise its staying :bounce:

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro

Bill ~ Nope, but its only been on the road for 2 days! I don't even attempt the freeway.....but I sweat every one I see. I am just waiting for one of them to bite. They are probably wondering what the hell it is, or even what might be wrong with it. It kinda helps that my dad is the boss of all of the local CHiP'ies!!! :D

Well I don't think I'll be as bad as you right now. plus it will get driv'n local mostly till trail time.

It only cost me $200 to cut and rotate the knuckles too. There are people that do that kinda stuff everywhere :)

I think I read that currie does it for a far price too... I know, I know I was :confused: too LOL

OK I am going to break it down for you fawkers.....I am in the Navy, and us squids don't get paid jackshit!!! And there is no special pays for being in the medical field either. No overtime pay, no put up with stupid shit pay (otherwise I'd be rich), no commission, no nothing. I am fawked makin no money, improvising everything I make, with as little as possible. Sorry guys, but thats why I could give a rats ass about the damn 3 inches. Your wife doesn't complaint about 3 inches........so sympathize with me here........:flipoff2:

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
OK I am going to break it down for you fawkers.....I am in the Navy, and us squids don't get paid jackshit!!! And there is no special pays for being in the medical field either. No overtime pay, no put up with stupid shit pay (otherwise I'd be rich), no commission, no nothing. I am fawked makin no money, improvising everything I make, with as little as possible. Sorry guys, but thats why I could give a rats ass about the damn 3 inches. Your wife doesn't complaint about 3 inches........so sympathize with me here........:flipoff2:

Dude I here that.... exept I do get Flight pay:flipoff2: But I saw that it was under $200 for the whole deal. I could have read too much into it though.

Nothing ever goes as planned, you guys should know that. These deals are few and far between, especially in San Diego. Shit, it costs on average, $400,000 for a 2 bdr house here. So it would cost about $500 to get an axle cut down, now you guys understand? :confused:

OK, I am one person that has experience with the axle being wider on one side. NARROW that side. Dude, you are asking for a world of hurt otherwise. The truck will track for shit and steer even worse WITH the hydro steer. Spend the "squid" as yuou call it and narrow that side. Any descent axle shop can do it for about 150-200 eachy side. You an;ly need one side done. to respline the shaft is a measly 70 each. Spend the money and save yourself the headache later. Other than that, it looks good.

Dimitri

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
Nothing ever goes as planned, you guys should know that. These deals are few and far between, especially in San Diego. Shit, it costs on average, $400,000 for a 2 bdr house here. So it would cost about $500 to get an axle cut down, now you guys understand? :confused:

Oh and you can't compare that with housing costs. I live in San Francisco where it is WAY more expensive than San Diego, and deals can be found anywhere. The local shop up here will cut and rotate my housing for 300 for BOTH sides. So the deals can be found, you just have to call and be cool about it.

Dimitri

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
Nothing ever goes as planned, you guys should know that. These deals are few and far between, especially in San Diego. Shit, it costs on average, $400,000 for a 2 bdr house here. So it would cost about $500 to get an axle cut down, now you guys understand? :confused:

Ok I remebered what I saw this is straight from Currie's site


Part # Price Description
CE-0100 $64.95 Labor per hour (1/2 hour minimum)
CE-0101 $31.95 Straighten axle housing
CE-0103 $49.95 Shorten axle housing, one side (butt welded)
CE-0104 $69.95 Shorten axle housing, one side (machined)
CE-0105 $89.95 Shorten axle housing, both sides (butt welded)
CE-0106 $99.95 Shorten axle housing, both sides (machined)
CE-0106A $179.95 Retube housing with 3" - .188 wall or swedged tube
CE-0106B $209.95 Retube housing with 3 1/4" - .250 wall tube "v" cut
CE-0106C $179.95 Retube housing with 3 1/4" - .188 wall tube
CE-0107 $59.95 Cut and respline single axle 30 or 45 degree
CE-0108 $99.95 Cut and respline pair of axles 30 or 45 degree

Thanks Bill:D

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
Thanks Bill:D

That's what I'm here for:D

Originally posted by Bill4rest


Ok I remebered what I saw this is straight from Currie's site


Part # Price Description
CE-0100 $64.95 Labor per hour (1/2 hour minimum)
CE-0101 $31.95 Straighten axle housing
CE-0103 $49.95 Shorten axle housing, one side (butt welded)
CE-0104 $69.95 Shorten axle housing, one side (machined)
CE-0105 $89.95 Shorten axle housing, both sides (butt welded)
CE-0106 $99.95 Shorten axle housing, both sides (machined)
CE-0106A $179.95 Retube housing with 3" - .188 wall or swedged tube
CE-0106B $209.95 Retube housing with 3 1/4" - .250 wall tube "v" cut
CE-0106C $179.95 Retube housing with 3 1/4" - .188 wall tube
CE-0107 $59.95 Cut and respline single axle 30 or 45 degree
CE-0108 $99.95 Cut and respline pair of axles 30 or 45 degree


Is it safe to cut and butt weld an axle tube together????

Originally posted by Wilson



Is it safe to cut and butt weld an axle tube together????

Dunno I guess I'd chat with them before they cut my axle.

if you have access to a chop saw and a 4.5" angle grinder do it yourself. i narrowed my front d60 housing myself so anyone can do it. measure how much you need to take off and heck the tube with a chop saw and the knuckle still attched. then take the tub with the "C" on it over to a vice clamp it down and start grinding the weld out of it. once you have the weld out and you can see the "crack" that tells you that the "C" is separated from the tube then press or beat the rest of the tube out. when that is done then take the "C" back to the housing and beat it back on ensuring you reset the caster to the correct angle and weld it up. i then sent my shafts to moser and they charged $50 for one shaft and $85 for 2. anyway i agree with they fact that you should fix it. however if i were you i'd just outboard your springs. just my op.

I was going to suggest this too. I rotated my knuckles this same way. It assumes that you have a welder though. It's actually really easy. It took me maybe two hours to rotate both knuckles, rotate the driver spring perch and grind the cast perch.

Interesting, but I am still stuck on the question......."why can't we be independently wealthy, and just sit at home with our trucks, a mill, welder, chop saw, sawzall, grinder, tube bender, and a plasma cutter?" Yeah, and hot ass naked chicks bringing us beers! That'll be the day, just like me cutting my FULLWIDTH axles down......BBAAAAAHHHAAHHHAAHHHAAAA :laughing: I might get a wild hair and out board the hangers....maybe....

what's your WMS to WMS and what did the axles come out of?

Front Dana 60 came out of a 92 Dodge 3500 single rear wheel, which is 69" WMS to WMS. And the rear came out of a late 70's Chevy 1 ton POS at the junkyard, which is 67" WMS to WMS.

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
Interesting, but I am still stuck on the question......."why can't we be independently wealthy, and just sit at home with our trucks, a mill, welder, chop saw, sawzall, grinder, tube bender, and a plasma cutter?" Yeah, and hot ass naked chicks bringing us beers! That'll be the day, just like me cutting my FULLWIDTH axles down......BBAAAAAHHHAAHHHAAHHHAAAA :laughing: I might get a wild hair and out board the hangers....maybe....


Welcome to my life!:flipoff2:

whitebrowithafro, finally on the BB. Your truck is looking TOO good! I might wanna go that way myself, HA! Only if I wanna devorce! Prob doing Los Coyotes for Labor Day, come out and get it scratched up? Later

Originally posted by whitebrowithafro
I am going to mount the tube end of the ram to the center of the housing, and on the drivers side knuckle (where the old tie rod mounted). Rob Roggy has a setup similar, so I wouldn't see why it wouldn't work
http://allprooffroad.com/xtoys/jv123001/8229.jpg

Yeah, Roggy did it, but it looks like a single shear mount to the knuckle, which I'd like to avoid.

Yeap, you are right Wilson....but my ram has a double shear mount on on the piston end, unlike the heim, or whatever, that Roggy is using. So I am with ya on that one. Okay everyone let it be known that I got the adapters for the 1976 Chevy K20 4x4 3/4 ton master cylinder. They are wrong (my fittings). I thought that it was a female 3/8" thread on the female side of the master, but they are far from that. Try one, 1/2 x 20, and the other is a whopping 9/16 x 18!!! That friggin M/S is HUGE, and the fittings as well. So back to the shop I go, for new fittings. Damn it Jim......I will post some pics when I get the fittings and everything right.

Bentyota ~ Is this Bryan?? Los Coyotes.....hummmm......SOLD....count me in!

You're going to have to find a way to get some sort of movement at the knuckle end. I'm sure you'll put pics up when you get it figured out. I'll have to check the measurements, I may be able to mount the ram in the same place, but weld the large heim on the tie rod, really close to the end.

i have a machinist i know locally narrow my stuff. he cuts the tube shortens it up in his lathe puts a collar in the housing sets the axle up on a jig and tig welds it back together. he does sweet work. he also resplined the shaft. cheap good work. he did my 60 for my cruiser for 175. long side 4.5"

Kinda far fetched, seeing as how you are in Washington bro. I glad to see that some of us get hooked up. And Wilson, I got to thinking, and you are right, it isn't going to move very freely like that, so maybe make a double shear that comes off of that arm, like 1/2" steel, and attach it as Roggy did with a heim. It would actually look kinda like Allpro's crossover arm ( not Hysteer), in a sense. Anyways, here is the 76 Massa Cylinda.....:D with Earls fittings to adapt. One is 9/16 x 18 to -3 AN, then a -3 coupler, then a -3 to 10mm (Toy) the other is the same except for the 1/2 x 20 in place of the 9/16. I am going to make the adapter tomorrow, and get everything bled/bolted. Then I will update to see if this really works!!!
http://www.rockrawler.com/massa.jpg

UPDATE.....Ok for those of you that get the 76 chevy master cylinder, and you are going to make the adapter plate. Make sure that you use a 1 5/8" hole saw for the center. I used 1 3/4" and that was a little too big. With the countersunk bolts for the Chevy side, weld em in, because if you find out that your master cylinder was bad, then you don't have to take off the plate. And DO NOT go to Pep Boys for a M/S, because I went through 2 bad ones, before heading to Autozone for a good one. And last but not least, if you use 1/4" plate for the adapter, make sure that you turn down the nipple sticking out of the booster, otherwise your brakes will be on after you bleed the system, and believe me it starts to smell!! :D

Chevy MC to toyota lines to Chevy calipers + lots of adapters in between?

When I think about it yeah, but I didn't want to route lines with new distribution blocks. I don't have a lot of resources that a lot of these guys have. They all work great and the only complex fitting was the master cylinder. The brake lines are Earls high performance 40" lines and they are universal, so you add whatever size you want on the ends, so........ I wasn't to worried about it.

Another UPDATE......I will now validate that you cannot steer for SHIT with a welded diff in a Dana 60. WOW, I couldn't believe it......so hydro is definately coming soon, as expected. So let it be known guys!!!

I FINALLY GOT THE FAWKIN RAM ON!!!! Now I can turn this beast!! I tapped the toy box on top and the side like Scott does, at Rockstomper. 1/4" NPT with 1/4" lines. 90 degree swivel fittings, 3/4" flat stock for a mount, and 3/4" bolts to hold that snatch on there!! I added a small cooler for more fluid and less temp to avoid the steering system to get AS hot.......whatever, hope everything works this weekend!! (hammers)
http://www.rockrawler.com/MVC-007F.jpg

the ram looks a little low? Don't you think the rock will get it?

Yeah its a little low, but I didn't know if the housing was nodular iron, or cast......I MIG not stick, so I took the easy route and did it that way. Roggy runs it like that, so.....whatever that means. I took it out for the J.V. Roxy's Bday bash/Pirate4x4.com roundup, and it ends up that the lines WERE in harms way, and one of them got crushed going up JackHammer. Sooooo, I am going to check on a new place to put the ram, and run the lines discreetly, so that rocks can't grab em'....:D