I checked the search and came up empty.
I would like some links and pics of the beadlock type hummer rims. I know some shop was building and selling them someplace. Any info on them and sources are welcome.

They will be for my bronco and I know they have deep backspacing. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

You need to get ahold of Matt Hodges at www.westtexasoffroad.com (http://www.westtexasoffroad.com) I think has has some.

16.5 x 8.25

7.5" Backspacing

Two piece use rubber donut for beadlock, locks both inner and outer bead. Inner part has large o-ring to seal two halves together

One piece civilian use a plastic ring that locks the outer bead only

Military are for bias ply tires only. Civilian 2 piece and one piece are for radial. They are made by Hutchinson.

Run flats are also available for them.

12 outer bolts hold rim together, most civilian trucks came with penta nuts. Chuck em and get standard 1/2 fine thread.

Uses standard lockwashers on 9 of the bolts, and locating washers on the other 3

8 bolt rim.

Tim.

Thanks for the replies
I would be using 38.5 sx's on fullwidth axles. I want these so I can run the truck on the street legally. Which ones would you recomend. price? Should I just get some custom stockton wheels for the backspacing I need?
thanks

Here are what the 8 bolt hummer rims look like disassembled. They are excellent for bias ply off road use.

http://www.rocktaxi.com/hmmvrim2.jpg
http://www.rocktaxi.com/hmmvrim1.jpg

Here are some links to see them installed on my full width Dana 60's. No modifications to the axles were made except steering arms to clear the 7.5" offset of the rim

http://www.rocktaxi.com/Taxi2.jpg
http://www.rocktaxi.com/taxi3.jpg
http://www.rocktaxi.com/taxi4.jpg

These rims typically run about 50 each or less, making the savings on beadlocks and narrowing the axles pretty substantial. For a budget challenged jeeper, it may be the most affordable way to do 60's and get beadlocks.

Hope this helps.

Ed

Here is what I've got.
<IMG width=576 height=432 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/hummerrimbackssmall.JPG">

<IMG width=576 height=432 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/hummerringssmall.JPG">

Cool, do you have the run flat inserts too?

How much per wheel? PM me, I have some buyers here in DFW looking for 20-25 rims.

Ed

ps thanks for the info on the steering box vs orbital info. I will send you another email in a bit with more questions.

thelakerat how much for four? are the rims to narrow for 38x14.5 tires?

how about a discounted package deal with hydro-assist. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I going too be running a 60 front and 14 bolt on my 7.This would solve my brake,axle width and beadlock problems.I'm figuring that the hub will be sticking out about 4 inchs past the outside of the rim.Has anyone had problems with breaking lock-outs and such?

Could you please send me a price for a set of 4 and do you have the runflats for them

thanks
4x4extreme@excite.com

this link is to one of my pages,
it has a few pictures of Hummer wheels and show the beadlocks/run-flats pretty good.
http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton/hummerwheels.html

Originally posted by Bigd:
<STRONG>I going too be running a 60 front and 14 bolt on my 7.This would solve my brake,axle width and beadlock problems.I'm figuring that the hub will be sticking out about 4 inchs past the outside of the rim.Has anyone had problems with breaking lock-outs and such?</STRONG>

I am running them on my Dana 60 Front, and the drive flange (no hubs) is even with the
edge of the wheel. The 16" wide 38.5 TSL's then cover it a little more. I do have an issue occasionally with hitting the drive flange on rocks, but then I did before with the dana 30 and 10" rims too.

If you are really worried about it, get some wheel spacers to move the rim out a couple of inches.

Ed

Please note that the pictures posted on this thread are of the military bias ply rims. They have 8 bolts holding the two pieces together.

They are not recommened for use with radial tires.

The civilian radial rims have 12 bolts to retain the two pieces.

In 3/4TonYJ's post, he is running the military bias rims, but his spare is a civilian model. Also the integrated runflat/beadlock pictured is the mil model, which is made out of magnesium.

Civilian beadlocks are rubber donuts. Here's a pic of my wheels with the beadlocks on them (note I have widened this wheel to 16" so there are actually two of them per wheel:

http://www.gohumvee.com/images/misc/widewheel/wheel6.jpg

Originally posted by Rock Taxi:
<STRONG>I am running them on my Dana 60 Front, and the drive flange (no hubs) is even with the
edge of the wheel. The 16" wide 38.5 TSL's then cover it a little more. I do have an issue occasionally with hitting the drive flange on rocks, but then I did before with the dana 30 and 10" rims too.

If you are really worried about it, get some wheel spacers to move the rim out a couple of inches.

Ed</STRONG>

So if you were to get a set of these and install them on a D60 front, you would be able to install 38.5x14.5x16.50's on it, correct? In this example, would the center hub stick outside of the rubber?

Originally posted by SweetCJ7:
<STRONG>So if you were to get a set of these and install them on a D60 front, you would be able to install 38.5x14.5x16.50's on it, correct? In this example, would the center hub stick outside of the rubber?</STRONG>

I have 16" wide TSL's on mine, and the 8 bolt external drive flanges
http://www.rocktaxi.com/jeepprojectbackup/CompleteFrontWheel2.JPG

and the drive flange is about 1 1/2" inside the tire. With my setup the 14.5" wide SX should also "just" be inside the tire. If you are running locking hubs, I really don't know yet. I have a set of internal spline 60 hubs that I am about to swap on with 35 spline stubs and internal drive flanges. I can measure them when they are installed and estimate the added with for a locking hub and let you know.

Performance Wheel and Tire (as well as others) sell wheel spacers that can add an inch or two to push the tire out and protect the hub some more if you need it.

Hope this helps.

Ed

[ 10-21-2001: Message edited by: Rock Taxi ]

Holy Geeze! Do I need to resize that photo or what?!? <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

Also, don't beat me up on the size of the front driveshaft. Yeah I ripped it in half and made a new one out of thick wall DOM tubing.

Now how do I resize a photo.....

Here are two different sizes to choose from. Pic one to replace it with.

640x480 (http://www.sweetcj7.com/web_dev/pics/CompleteFrontWheel3.jpg)

350x263 (http://www.sweetcj7.com/web_dev/pics/CompleteFrontWheel2.jpg)

[ 10-21-2001: Message edited by: SweetCJ7 ]

Thanks!

Originally posted by Rock Taxi:
<STRONG>If you are running locking hubs, I really don't know yet. </STRONG>

What else would I run, and solid drive flange and an ARB? I don't understand that statement. <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">

I'm selling the rims for $45 dollars each. And no I don't have the runflat rings. Sorry. I thought they came with the rims and so I got fawked. The run flats are available from different location but I don't know where.

thelakerat,
so you have the outer and inner rims but not the beadlock part.
in other words the beads can't be locked without the runflat peice?

Originally posted by SweetCJ7:
<STRONG>What else would I run, and solid drive flange and an ARB? I don't understand that statement. <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Good man.

Well...except for that ARB???? <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

Ok, guess you don't HAVE to have a spool in the front to be cool. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Rock Taxi:
<STRONG>Good man.

Well...except for that ARB???? <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

Ok, guess you don't HAVE to have a spool in the front to be cool. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Well I am using a Dodge D60F and it is internal locking hubs (I think). Here is a pic or two....



http://www.directcon.net/kurtz/Frnt_hub.jpg http://www.directcon.net/kurtz/Frnt_hub_2.jpg


So how would I do that with these hubs? Do they make a snap-ring solid flange type? If so, where would I go to get them. This is going to be driven to the trail and occasionally around town, if that makes a difference on whether I can run them or not!

[ 10-21-2001: Message edited by: SweetCJ7 ]

My next question would be do the rubber beadlock from civi rims fit into the military rims.And how hard are the rubber beadlocks or even the mag run flats to obtain.Sources?It looks like the rims are easy too come by.Thanks.

yeah Where do you get the Mag or rubber Beadlocks Inserts <IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0">

I would Like To know !

Adam,

Hummer dealers should have a good selection of civilian 2 piece (radial) w/beadlocks. A good percentage of customers from 94-99 would get aftermarket rims with their new trucks right off the bat. The dealers usually kept the old rims. Should be $50-60 each and they will likely throw in the beadlocks.

Tim.

Originally posted by SweetCJ7:
<STRONG>Well I am using a Dodge D60F and it is internal locking hubs (I think). Here is a pic or two....


So how would I do that with these hubs? Do they make a snap-ring solid flange type? If so, where would I go to get them. This is going to be driven to the trail and occasionally around town, if that makes a difference on whether I can run them or not!

[ 10-21-2001: Message edited by: SweetCJ7 ]</STRONG>

Depends on how much lift you are running and the condition of the driveline if its ok to have full time hubs. I run mine with drive flanges and it is fine.

Here are the spicer internal drive flanges for 35 spline stubs. they are also available for 30 splined stubs and keep the axle as narrow as possible.

http://www.rocktaxi.com/60FLANGE1.JPG

Ed

Bigd,
Go by DRMO on Ft Carson.
We used to toss bunches of the bias rims and they go to DRMO and then to auctions and/or local scrap yards.
I got my d60 front out of a truck that went to a scrap yard off of Las Vegas I believe. (down from Harris Truck Parts)
And didn't pay much for it. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
They had tons of the bias rims and just scrapped um.

Also, you can sometimes find the radial rims, but usually they will have cracks, broken studs (replacable), or otherwise fubared.
The bias runflats are also easy to find and can be cut with a grinder and cut-off wheel so that they bead-lock the wheels but aren't run-flats.

heres a picture of my spare wheel, it's the 16-bolt, they come apart different than the 8-bolt....i believe these are the military ones used with the "air inflate or deflate" tires on the move. this wheel has a very different valve stem.
fyi, i bought it with the large magnesium beadlock inside a radial tire.
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-573122-16boltswheels.jpg

Thanks for the help Nanuk i keep forgeting I live right next too a army Base.I'm going too check there tomorrow.Think i'll have performance make a set of 1 inch spacers and that sould solve my tie rod and lock out issues.FOr any one that hasn't used there spacers before i had a set for the rear of my blazer and they worked great.Just a bitch tracking down another 32 lug nuts.Thanks

Originally posted by 3/4tonYJ:
<STRONG>heres a picture of my spare wheel, it's the 16-bolt, they come apart different than the 8-bolt....i believe these are the military ones used with the "air inflate or deflate" tires on the move.
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-573122-16boltswheels.jpg </STRONG>

This is a standard radial two piece hummer rim, identical to the civilian models. They are the same.

They have 12 bolts retaining the two halves. The rubber beadlock will work in them, as well as the integrated magnesium beadlock/runflat Check at your local Hummer dealer. They should have some of the rubber ones lying around.

As for lug nuts, last time I was down at the dealer, I asked for some and he gave me about 150 of them. I have a whole box in the garage!

Tim.

Rock Taxi, do you know what the original application is for the drive flanges you've posted? What I'm wondering is, if there is a lockout hub option for the same application. I have the 35 spline stubs sitting in the garage and am investigating lockout options.

Thanks,

Pete

Originally posted by pcorssmit:
<STRONG>Rock Taxi, do you know what the original application is for the drive flanges you've posted? What I'm wondering is, if there is a lockout hub option for the same application. I have the 35 spline stubs sitting in the garage and am investigating lockout options.

Thanks,

Pete</STRONG>

The flanges I posted are OEM Spicer units. I can post the spicer part numbers for you tonight when I get home if you would like. They are for Dana 60 F axles.

Locking hubs for this? I dont like hubs myself as they are just more stuff to break, but I have heard you can get Warn Premiums for the 35 spline stubs. Just never hunted it down. Dynatrac comes to mind as the place to get them. I am sure someone else here can answer that question better.

Ed

I have a Warn part #, but it is for a rear hub conversion kit, and uses the set screws (and don't "click" in place), which I don't want. I've never heard of a 60 that came with 35 spline outers, thats why I was curious as to the application of the slugs you have. However, maybe if I had the part # for the slugs I could have DTI or somebody cross-reference a lock out. The stubs I bought are the OEM Spicer ones, supposedly for a D70 (3-82-871). I want to retain the option of unlocking the hubs for occasional street driving, the trucks questionable handling gets a lot worse w/the hubs locked.

Pete

Originally posted by Rock Taxi
These rims typically run about 50 each or less, making the savings on beadlocks and narrowing the axles pretty substantial. For a budget challenged jeeper, it may be the most affordable way to do 60's and get beadlocks.

Hope this helps.

Ed

:eek: $50, where would that be???

Originally posted by rockmutt


:eek: $50, where would that be???

I suppose you did not notice that this thread is almost 2 years old.

So to answer your question, $50 would be in 2001.

Maybe Hummer wheels were cheaper A YEAR AND A HALF AGO!!!

......please note the date on the last response before posting a reply.

Wow, out-typed by a Texas farm-boy, there goes my self-esteem.

hmmmmm, didnt notice that:rolleyes: :rolleyes: , sorry guyz

Those rims were from west texas offroad for $50.
Just the rims no runflats. If I remember correctly he had at least a hundred or more. He may still have them if you call. You might get lucky.:D