I have an '85 CJ7 and it has been sitting for almost 3 years without running. When I start it I cannot shift into gear. If I start it in gear it starts going w/out me. It seems the clutch is not disengaging. My buddy has adjusted the tension on the clutch, but that did not make a difference. I'm wondering if it could be a hydrolic assisted clutch from brake system, low/no fluid or rusted? Any thoughts or things to look at would be greatly apreciated.

Thanks.

I have an '85 CJ7 and it has been sitting for almost 3 years without running. When I start it I cannot shift into gear. If I start it in gear it starts going w/out me. It seems the clutch is not disengaging. My buddy has adjusted the tension on the clutch, but that did not make a difference. I'm wondering if it could be a hydrolic assisted clutch from brake system, low/no fluid or rusted? Any thoughts or things to look at would be greatly apreciated.

Thanks.

Hydro clutches were stand alone systems in CJ-7's. I'm not a clutch guru, but how a clutch system could tie into the brake system is beyond me. Bottomw line, if you don't see hydralic lines going into the bellhousing its not a hydralic clutch. A hydralic clutch system would have a slave cylinder to the right of the brake booster/MC if you are facing the vehicle. Sounds like it needs to be adjusted more, or your clutch is shot. Did you buy it from some dude who said it "ran fine" or did YOU personally park it 3 years ago and it drove/shifted fine? If you bought it from some guy It sounds like a case of buyer beware.

Sounds like the clutch has rusted itself together... Try putting it in 4th gear, standing on the brake as hard as you can, left foot on the clutch, and crank the motor over..it should brake itself loose...if not, pull the tranny, and buy a new clutch.

It should be a pivot style in 85 if it is stock, not a hydraulic.

I agree with Bryan, if you have checked the linkage and it is operating properly, it is rusted together. If his method doesn't break it loose you can try this relatively unsafe method...seen it successful:

Put the rear end on jackstands after chocking the front wheels and with someone in the seat holding the brakes on, start it in first gear, squirt PB Blaster onto the clutch (LOTS of it) through the clutch arm hole or drill a small hole in the bellhousing. Then have the person in the seat then push the clutch in and rev it up and down.

It'll work, but it IS dangerous.

Just pull the inspection cover, hold the clutch pedal down with a stick or have a helper do it. Then pry the friction disk away From the flywheel with a screwdriver, it shouldn't take much effort. No danger and works every time I have done it.

Just pull the inspection cover, hold the clutch pedal down with a stick or have a helper do it. Then pry the friction disk away From the flywheel with a screwdriver, it shouldn't take much effort. No danger and works every time I have done it.

No inspection cover on a T4 or T5. Good point though.

if its in an open area were there is nothing to hit start it and push it into first holding the cutch in drive up a hill the same thing happened to me last week

if that doesnt work just drive around a little bit with the clutch pedal in in first and reverse

it may not be the safest way to do it but it works

1985...Should be a hydrolic clutch. Open the hood, drivers side directly in front of where the clutch linkage goes through the firewall. It looks like an aluminum "L" with a cap on top of it and a hardline running out of it. It could be a) low on fluid. b) air in the line. c) bad master cylinder d) bad slave cylinder.
If this is where the problem lies, the good news is the parts are easy to get to and easy to fix. New (remanufactured) master cylinders are over priced, but you can get a rebuild kit for those. Slave cylinders are cheap.
Check those things out before you start bashing or prying on your clutch parts.