When I did my SAS I replaced most every replaceable item on my donor dana 44 (87 wagoneer) but one of the things I didn't replace was the rotor and the wheel studs. After 1000mi or so I checked the lugs and noticed that 2 lugs on one side and one on the other spin freely with a wrench (they are tighter than finger tight) in both directions, endlessly. I hope I don't get a flat on the freeway anytime soon.

Anyone have ideas as to how to get this off? I plan on replacing the studs once they come off. But of most importance I'm going to gearmans shop this weekend to get the front setup and if I can't get the tire off... well, you know.

spin it till it breaks off... if it's a little tight both directions you outta be able to turn and turn and turn it till the stud breaks off in the lugnut.. turn it counterclockwise like you're removing it.. use a big star lug wrench... that's the way ALL my broke studs have come off.. once it's off remove the wheel and replace the studs.. be careful cause that damn lugnut will get hot after cranking it till it breaks the stud.. lots of friction...

Can U take the rotors off w/o removing the rim? If U can, then U could just work it from there where U could get to the back of the studs.

I've had a few stuck lug nuts on the Suzuki that I had to take care of up front. I use open end lugs so it's a little bit easier to take care of.

One of them I cut off with a grinder with a cutting wheel (I did scratch the wheels in the process a bit).

The other way and a little bit easier of a way is to just drill it out using a bit almost the same size as the stud. Just drill into the center. Eventually you will get in deep enough into the stud that you can just whack it with a hammer and it will bust off.

Take the hub off and pull the the wheel/rotor off that way. Tac weld on the studs from the rear and the remove the lug nuts. A qiuck grind of the tac weld and remove the fubar stud

I had that problem .I cut the tip of the lug nut off so stud was showwing , then took a drill starting with a small size bit and drilled through the center of the stud, and worked my way up to a 1/2inch bit (1/2inch stud). This work out great do to the fact that this was on the rear with drum brakes. It could also waork for you. <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Old Scout:
<STRONG>Take the hub off and pull the the wheel/rotor off that way. Tac weld on the studs from the rear and the remove the lug nuts. A qiuck grind of the tac weld and remove the fubar stud</STRONG>

Depending on what backspaing he has he probably can't get the caliper off to remove the hub. The waggy brakes have those big allen head bolts that hold the rotors on. Or am I missing something?

The caliper is going to be a pain. But if you remove the allen bolts and pull straight it might work. then weld the studs and remove the lug nuts. Either way its gonna suck <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by BigBadBob:
<STRONG>When I did my SAS I replaced most every replaceable item on my donor dana 44.</STRONG>

HAHAHA you just can't win can you.....
have you tried an impact gun? that may brake it loose...

Wow. Glad to hear I'm not the first to have this happen. Thanks for all of the tips guys, there's no way I can't get those suckers off now!

this is going to sound rough but it works great. i take a oxy/acet torch with a big welding tip and heat up the the stud right in the center till it is glowing hot with a puddel in the center. then turn the oxy valve wide open. i works like a straight cutting torch. i usally have to fire up the torch two or three times a stud. but i have removed lugnuts that were inset in aluminum rims 3 ins. deep. and it has worked every time. just another option, later mike

Originally posted by Gordon:
<STRONG>Depending on what backspaing he has he probably can't get the caliper off to remove the hub. The waggy brakes have those big allen head bolts that hold the rotors on. Or am I missing something?</STRONG>

yeah, the only way to to cut the mountain bracket off, then pull the hub abd other junk, you jut have to get a new dust shield/calipiar mount

What if you take all of the ones out that will come out, then put the truck on the ground so that the weight of the truck is on the studs, pulling on them and giving them some "bite"... then try turning them off...?

Carful that the truck doesn't fall though after the last one! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

BTW, Dorman 610-264 studs are beefier (12mm, almost 1/2" vs. 7/16") and the same threads as your Toy rears so you can use your old lug nuts and have matching ones all around. They fit perfectly in the Chevy/Waggy wheel hub. I think Yogiaz and maybe NorcalVP used them too.

Good luck! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">