: hysteer hits oil pan, need help
savage4x4 07-31-2002, 08:10 PM i have a 1983 pickup shortbed, just put on allpro hysteer and put rear springs in front, moved axle forward 2''. I have about 3-4'' of lift, when i flex my truck up the tie rod hits my oil pan. before i had 1.5'' shackle lift and the hysteer wouldn't fit at all, the top tie rod hit the oil pan. whats wrong with my truck, please help.
Install bumpstops - problem solved.
just a thought...but I seem to remember something about 2wd oil pans being mucho different than 4wd pans....wrong pan? Can you post a pic of it?
savage4x4 07-31-2002, 08:34 PM i can't post a pic. but the guy i bought the truck from put a new engine in so the oil pan isn't the original, i will have to look at a 2wd and 4wd and see if mine is a 2wd or not. i already have bumpstops, thats not the problem. I have about a 1.5'' between the top tie rod and the oil pan. What about bad engine mounts would that cause this.
Originally posted by savage4x4
i can't post a pic. but the guy i bought the truck from put a new engine in so the oil pan isn't the original, i will have to look at a 2wd and 4wd and see if mine is a 2wd or not. i already have bumpstops, thats not the problem. I have about a 1.5'' between the top tie rod and the oil pan. What about bad engine mounts would that cause this.
Well, it obviously IS your problem... So you either have to take off the highsteer (not likely), change the oil pan (probably not the issue), or install bumpstops to limit compression.
I seem to recall highsteer can be a problem with little lift - looks like that is what you are dealing with...
Wolverine 07-31-2002, 09:58 PM I know for a fact the 2wd oil pans are a different shape than 4wd.When running the stock steering maybe you could have gotten away with this but now you can't.I also think that the different year 22re and 22r have different shape oil pans.Find out what year engine you have and go to the dealer and get a new oil pan.
Toddy 07-31-2002, 10:32 PM I had the same problem with the engine I got from DRM. It was a front sumop pan. Tha other one I had was a rear sump so I swaped them. You will need the pickup from a rear sump pan also. I think the 2wd is front sump and 4wd is rear sump. All you need is another pan and pickup and you will have no more problems with it hitting. Hope this helps.
Todd
Wheelie_Pete 07-31-2002, 10:41 PM SUPER EASY TO TELL WHICH PAN YOU HAVE:
2wd pans have the sump in the front (same on the RWD 22r series cars)
4wd pans have the sump in the rear.
To convert you will need the 4wd pan (obviously) and you will need the pick-up tube assembly to rout the pickup to the rear sump of the 4wd pan. The pick up tube will unbolt from the bottom of the block once the pan is off.
The 4wd pan (at least on the first gen trucks) will also have a skidplate welded to the bottom of the pan near the drain plug. You will NOT have any high steer issues with an actual 4cyl 4wd oil pan. (Especially if the axle is moved forward. The whole reason the sump in is the rear of the pan on the 4x4's is so the diff won't hit the bottom of the pan under a big hit. The 4wd sump in the rear pans get the pan completely out of the way of the axle.
Here's a picture of the profile of my 1981 factory 4x4 oil pan. Note: the sump is in the rear near the bell housing.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/wheelie_pete/images/Side01.jpg
Originally posted by Heepkiller
I also think that the different year 22re and 22r have different shape oil pans.Find out what year engine you have and go to the dealer and get a new oil pan.
The only major difference between the older (pre 8/84) 4WD oil pans and the newer ones is that the older ones use a cork gasket, whereas the newer ones use FIPG. The easy way to tell is look at the drain plug. The older pans have a really large drain plug, takes a 19mm wrench. You can also look for that little skidplate thingy. They can be interchanged (I have an '85 pan on my '84 engine for sale now), but you hafta pay attention to the seal. You can use a gasket with a newer pan, but you can't get an older pan to seal with FIPG.
Scott@Rockstomper 08-01-2002, 09:37 AM Originally posted by DRM
Well, it obviously IS your problem... So you either have to take off the highsteer (not likely), change the oil pan (probably not the issue), or install bumpstops to limit compression.
I seem to recall highsteer can be a problem with little lift - looks like that is what you are dealing with...
Just because you have bumpstops, doesn't mean they're right for your setup. With high steer, you may need to raise/lower the bumpstops and/or striker pads to provide enough clearance for the high steer at full compression/twist. I've seen entirely too many setups where guys figure "I've got bumpstops" but the truck twists up and the stops miss the frame completely, aren't tall enough to matter (and they use the shocks or steering as stops), or similar. I have bumpstops on my truck too... but they don't do anything on twist, because when the truck twists up, it compresses the coils to bind before the steering or shocks bottom out on the frame. I have them for level compression--if my axles compress straight up, like if I'm bajaing over speedbumps at the mall, my suspension doesn't like it. So I bumpstoped it for that.
From the sounds of things, you've probably got a 2WD oil pan--with the 4WD oil pan, usually the steering hits the frame first, not the oil pan. Swap to the right oil pan for the truck (and as has already been mentioned, the right pickup tube for the oil pan) and you should be good to go.
harley_sr 08-01-2002, 05:03 PM Originally posted by DRM
Well, it obviously IS your problem... So you either have to take off the highsteer (not likely), change the oil pan (probably not the issue), or install bumpstops to limit compression.
I seem to recall highsteer can be a problem with little lift - looks like that is what you are dealing with...
Seems like you know a little on the Cross Over Steering.. I got a question for ya, I have a 84 Toyota 4x4, and I am looking to get the Cross Over, but I did a motor swap on my truck. I am now running a 89 FI 22re, will I run into any probs. with the cross over? I have 3in lift, and I am going to install shackles when I get the cross over. Will I be ok?
Originally posted by 98Taco
Seems like you know a little on the Cross Over Steering.. I got a question for ya, I have a 84 Toyota 4x4, and I am looking to get the Cross Over, but I did a motor swap on my truck. I am now running a 89 FI 22re, will I run into any probs. with the cross over? I have 3in lift, and I am going to install shackles when I get the cross over. Will I be ok?
lol :p
First of, the others are correct - it *could* be that he has a 2wd or car oil pan on there, and that could be the problem.
But aside from that, when you start getting down close to 3" of suspension lift and less, you start running into the possibility that the added heights of a high steer setup will interfere with either the oil pan, or possibly the frame as Scott mentioned. Generally, high steer with tie rod ends are "taller" than ones using rod ends (heims), so keep that in mind. Also, different aftermarket high steer arms also may have a different height as well.
Bottom line - it is pretty much a "put it on and see" kind of deal...
Lemoore-on 08-01-2002, 07:30 PM Savage, Mine does the same thing. Its an 82. I was gonna install bumstops but decided to go with a motor lift from 4crawler instead. My truck already has a 2' body lift so I got 2" spacers from Roger. Raise the motor and Xfer case 2" get the pan outta the way and get a nearly flat bottem. This requires a Front range xfer case xmember or a Budbuilt or a custom crossmember.
The bumpstops are the easyest and cheapest though.
harley_sr 08-01-2002, 07:52 PM Originally posted by DRM
lol :p
First of, the others are correct - it *could* be that he has a 2wd or car oil pan on there, and that could be the problem.
But aside from that, when you start getting down close to 3" of suspension lift and less, you start running into the possibility that the added heights of a high steer setup will interfere with either the oil pan, or possibly the frame as Scott mentioned. Generally, high steer with tie rod ends are "taller" than ones using rod ends (heims), so keep that in mind. Also, different aftermarket high steer arms also may have a different height as well.
Bottom line - it is pretty much a "put it on and see" kind of deal...
cool I see. I have a cross over set up on my 98Tacomahttp://img1.ranchoweb.com/images/swampthang1/sam5C27sride.jpg But would you happen to have any close up pics. of a cross over on a 84 or some thing like that?
Here's what mine looked like:
http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/images/mvc-006s.jpg
Mine was a 1990 SAS though...
harley_sr 08-01-2002, 08:06 PM Originally posted by DRM
Mine was a 1990 SAS though...
Ok 1 last question, I paid for my 1 year member ship last night, who do I need to contact to make sure they got it, and what are the benifits for paying for a member ship??
savage4x4 08-01-2002, 08:52 PM ok, i don't have a 2wd oil pan because the sump is in the back. I guess i either need to lift the front more, run bumpstops, or do a drivetrain lift. If i lift the engine do i need a body lift to make room for the extra lift? also i have a budbuilt x-member so that should work. does the bud built x-member lift the the t-case and transmission? If it does would that tilt the engine forward making the oil pan lower, making my hy-steer more likely to hit it. Also where can i get different sized bumpstops?
harley_sr 08-01-2002, 08:57 PM Originally posted by savage4x4
ok, i don't have a 2wd oil pan because the sump is in the back. I guess i either need to lift the front more, run bumpstops, or do a drivetrain lift. If i lift the engine do i need a body lift to make room for the extra lift? also i have a budbuilt x-member so that should work. does the bud built x-member lift the the t-case and transmission? If it does would that tilt the engine forward making the oil pan lower, making my hy-steer more likely to hit it. Also where can i get different sized bumpstops?
I got a real good Idea, just sell me your cross over kit, and I will make all the mods. to make it work, and let you know so your next kit will not give this much trouble..
Originally posted by 98Taco
Ok 1 last question, I paid for my 1 year member ship last night, who do I need to contact to make sure they got it, and what are the benifits for paying for a member ship??
Lance is the man who handles that, sometimes it takes a few days for it to go through and your red start to pop up. Give it till the middle of next week, then email me and I will check on it for you...
harley_sr 08-01-2002, 09:04 PM Originally posted by DRM
Lance is the man who handles that, sometimes it takes a few days for it to go through and your red start to pop up. Give it till the middle of next week, then email me and I will check on it for you...
cool, but what are the perks for doing it?? will it stop all the banners?? lol
Scott@Rockstomper 08-01-2002, 10:01 PM Originally posted by savage4x4
ok, i don't have a 2wd oil pan because the sump is in the back. I guess i either need to lift the front more, run bumpstops, or do a drivetrain lift. If i lift the engine do i need a body lift to make room for the extra lift?
Yeah, probably. There's not a lot of extra room in there.
also i have a budbuilt x-member so that should work. does the bud built x-member lift the the t-case and transmission?
Only if you told Bud to build it that way--if you didn't tell him you wanted a lift, you probably don't have one.
where can i get different sized bumpstops?
4WPW has all the bumpstops you can imagine, but you'll probably want to go through something like Energy Suspension or Daystar's catalogs to find a part number for a bigger stop that'll work how you want it to, first. Other than that, your local 4x4 shop may have something on the shelf that you can look at and decide if it'll work, but there's no magic formula that works for everybody's stuff--you pretty much have to play with it and see. We keep a limited selection on the shelf, based on what we sell a lot of (mostly smaller stops), but you've gotta do some measuring to figure out what size/shape/design of stops will work for what you want out of it.
If you do have bumpstops now, but they're not tall enough, you can make spacers or something to weld in either where the stops hit, or under the stops, to tune your bottom-out point.
Lemoore-on 08-02-2002, 05:52 AM After flexing mine out a few times since I noticed the marks on the oil pan, I havn't noticed it hitting anymore. I think when they hit and made the marks on the oil pan was from those "whoop de doo's" at Johnson valley. One of them caught me off gaurd last year at Frostoberfest.
Originally posted by 98Taco
cool, but what are the perks for doing it?? will it stop all the banners?? lol
No more banners, no more pop-ups, a few other perks too...
RE:Todd 08-02-2002, 06:49 AM Originally posted by Lemoore-on
My truck already has a 2' body lift Damn, 2 foot body lift!! Is that for picking up the chicks at the mall ??? :D :D .
Lemoore-on 08-02-2002, 11:04 AM Naw, Its for getting my FAT FINGERS in there to work on shit!!!:flipoff2:
fourlofirst 08-02-2002, 02:32 PM Originally posted by DRM
No more banners, no more pop-ups, a few other perks too...
Uh, guys-theres a ltlle "button" at the bottom of every reply that says PM...See it there?
:flipoff2::fawkinnewbies::flipoff2:
Originally posted by fourlofirst
Uh, guys-theres a ltlle "button" at the bottom of every reply that says PM...See it there?
:flipoff2::fawkinnewbies::flipoff2:
You mean the button you could have used to tell us both this little jewel of info?
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