: T-case shift bar removal...


Mechanos
07-31-2002, 09:50 PM
OK, maybe I'm just being to damn gentle with this thing, but how in the hell do you get the friggin' shift bars out of the front output housing on a D300?

jdjanda
07-31-2002, 10:01 PM
Despite what the manual says, the front shift rail is the last thing to be removed. Pull the cluster, remover the front output shaft (you'll find a c-clip on some models). Once you have the front output shaft and gears out you can rotate the shift rail enough to get to the set screw. Then remove the front output support and pull the rails out of the front support housing. A real PITA.

Joe

Mechanos
08-01-2002, 05:30 AM
OK, I already have the case completely disassembled..... except for the two shift bars that are still mounted in the front output housing. So you are saying that I need to rotate the shift bars in the output housing and I will reveal some set screws? Do I need to drill out the plugs on the side where the interlock pins go? I'm lost here.....

ol John Henry
08-01-2002, 05:43 AM
Dont drill anything.. Just twist and pull

make sure the pins & springs dont fly across the shop, there under these
<img border="0" src="http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001001crop.JPG" width="1012" height="612">

Mechanos
08-01-2002, 06:20 AM
Alright, those are on the top of the shift tower. I took the front axle indicator switch out but that does not seem to free up that shift rail. It feels like the interlock pin(s) that go from shift rail to shift rail are still holding it in. As you can see, the other poppet spring/ball plug is wasted and I will probably have to destroy what is left of it just to get it out. Hope I can find a new one. I'm about to pull out the blasting powder... maybe that'll get them outta there.....

ol John Henry
08-01-2002, 06:25 AM
the poppets are under the rail those are just caps...
.
.

twist and pull i swear

Mechanos
08-01-2002, 08:45 AM
Alrighty then.... when I get home tonight I'll do what it takes to get the remants of that fucked up plug out, twist the rail and give it a pull, and watch shit go flying across the shop. :D Thanks... :beer:

jdjanda
08-01-2002, 08:56 AM
Originally posted by TORC
Alrighty then.... when I get home tonight I'll do what it takes to get the remants of that fucked up plug out, twist the rail and give it a pull, and watch shit go flying across the shop. :D Thanks... :beer:

Put a strip of duct tape over the holes, this will catch the detent ball and spring. And yes twist and pull. You can remove the caps the cover the shift holes and tap with a mallet. They'll come out ;)

RustoleumWhite
08-01-2002, 09:47 AM
IIRC when I pulled my D20 apart... yes, the interlock pills can lock the levers in, not alowing you to "twist" them as Joe keeps saying.

Not sure what position it was, but play with the two levers ("shift" them if you will) till you get to the point were the pills have moved enought to twist one of the shafts.

IIRC, there is/was a sweet spot were the pills were fit into indents on the one rail, completly freeing up the other rail...


also I think it was important to keep the rails marked... they were side specific... but them I'm going off foggy memory here...

:rasta:

jdjanda
08-01-2002, 09:50 AM
Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
also I think it was important to keep the rails marked... they were side specific... but them I'm going off foggy memory here...

:rasta:

That's correct you do need to keep them marked, as thery are different.

Mechanos
08-01-2002, 10:36 AM
OK, I'm with it now... those two little plugs on the side of the housing are the bores to the interlock pills.... they don't need to come out, but just 'shift' them to one side and remove a rail. Then they will be free to move over the other side to let the other rail out. I guess it would be a good idea to remember where the rails were positioned to allow the first one out because it will be the last one back in.:D I pulled the front housing with shift rails still in it a couple of nights ago when I took the case apart. I've been trying to get the damn rails out of the front housing so I can replace the shaft seals. Thanks to all that replied.... I got it under control now. :beer:

Damn, I just wanted to put my $15 seal and gasket kit in to dry up some leaks and now I've got the whole damn thing apart and getting ready to drop another $61 in bearings. I was able to order a new poppet plug for $1.00 but shipping was over $5.00 :mad: Oh well, the case should be good to go for another 20 years or so......

tsm1mt
08-01-2002, 10:44 AM
I guess I didn't know any better.. when my shift rails got stubborn, I broke out the BFH.

Maybe the rails rotated while I beat on 'em.. maybe not, but out they came.

Then they got welded up, turned down, and notched for the twin-sticks. :D

Mechanos
08-01-2002, 05:03 PM
The "sweet spot" is when the shift rails are in the "Neutral" position.

http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001015.JPG
Then take the rear axle shift rail and give a 90* twist so that the interlock indents are on the top. This puts an un-notched surface down toward the poppet ball. Then a gentle pull and the rail comes out. Do the same thing with other rail (the twist will be 90* in the opposite direction as the first one) and it is out. Thanks for the help guys.... :beer:

Note to Tom: No BFH required. :flipoff2: