I am still working on the wifes cursed 96 Disco 4.0 Auto.

I am now getting fuel but no spark.

The Crank sensor is 6 mos. old but I don't know if that may still be my problem. The connection and the bolts are secure.

When I turn the key to the "ON" position, the engine 'electrifies', the fuel pump kicks on with 38-40lbs of pressure and the fuel injectors light up my test light.

I tested for spark by using a spark tester and got nothing.

In a last effort to pretend that I know what I am doing, I took the dash apart to find this and no 'spider'.:
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/9370/yesyb2.jpg

This is a pic from the 'definitive' spider page.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/sclfk/Spider/Dash12.jpg

What do the tags on that connector say?

I wonder if someone tried to disable the alarm by circumventing the spider...

Do you have the ETM for this truck?

PT

Thats wiring from the stereo that the PO did. I hate that fawker. Whoever he is. But my rover has that black plastic where that other pic does not have it. Looks like ac or heat 'stuff' to me.

I pulled the CPS just because I am idle right now. I will try to swap it with the old one to see if there is any change.
Here is the pic of the old and new:
http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/8660/cps002dy5.jpg
Is that 'wear' normal?

Which ECU do you have in it now? The original, or the replacement from Will?

The damned thing started! I was fawking around with a bunch of stuff and it frigging started.

I took the CPS off and inspected it. There was quite a bit of rust on the bolts that secured it and the cover. I sanded it all smoove-n-shiny and cleaned the mounting surface. Sprayed the connection with wd-40.

Switched the CPU back to my OG one and sprayed all the connectors with wd-40.

Sprayed the MFU and the alarm cpu connections with wd-40.

It started right up and idled high for about 5 minutes before dropping back down to 750ish.

I think my problem laid in the CPS connection. Thoughts?

Thank god for wd-40:flipoff2:
BEFORE:
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/365/cps003uc6.jpg
Dirty bolts, the hole in the cover was rusted too. I used my chain saw file to clean the rust out of the hole.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/112/cps004wu1.jpg
All cleaned up:
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/1219/cps005oi7.jpg

The check engine light is on but my reader FAILS when I try to get a code.

The reader failure could well be due to the corrosion on the circuit board.

Now try the new ECU again! Maybe if you're lucky, AFIRover will tell you how to circumvent the alarm :flipoff2:

The reader failure could well be due to the corrosion on the circuit board.

I agree with you on that.

The "new" ECU does not work. I tried it several times before giving up on it.
Now I have a ecu that will not work on my rover. Can it be synced out of vehicle?

Can it be synced out of vehicle?

If you believe Rover, it must be speaking with the 10AS unit in the truck.

It ran great last night for about 2 hours. The I started it up again this morning just to double check that it was still working.

It started fine and died when it got up to temp. The #3 Engine Fuse in the under dash fuse panel was blown. I replace it but it didnt last very long. I am popping the #3 Engine fuse now:shaking:

Curious. I'm up to my neck in P38 EAS and suspect BeCMs right now, if I get a chance, I'll look at the circuits of the '96 Disco. I'll see if I can get AFI to weigh in as he's the expert with removing the alarms and ignition locks.

We'll get you running, just hang in there!

PT

Much appreciated!

I got my tester connected the way you recommended to some guy on dweb. I got the probes stuck in the fuse location and have been jiggling the truck around and wiggling wire connections listening for the testor to sound.

Weird problem:
I got the whole ECU, Alarm ECU and Multi-Function units unplugged but the tester is still sounding. I got most of the engine sensor plugs removed and am slowly making my way into the truck. But still get the faint blips and chirps from the tester when I shake the truck 'the right way'.

Well.. I think/hope that I found the cause of the fuse popping. The furthest back 02 sensor somehow managed to hang down low enough to rub on the drive shaft! Maybe thats why the problem was so infrequent and hard to track down.

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4469/cps009da8.jpg

http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/2025/cps011aj2.jpg

That could also be a component of your fuel pump problem (or is that only on theLucas trucks?).

I couldn't tell if the number three fuse you were referring to was the one for the oxygen sensor heaters or another and didn't want to send you on a wild goose chase until I'd had time to research it more fully.

Let's hope this gets you on the right track.

ok if you still need my help just give me a call (search for the #)

This would seem to be the end of my troubles since we have run it through several mudholes tonight without incident and its been running strong for over 6 hours.....




.but I guess only time will tell:confused: