It's just another YJ, I know. I've looked at hundreds of builds on here over the past 5 years that mine doesn't hold a candle to; but I figured since I was gonna do a 60 front swap I'd go ahead an post how I put it together like it is so I'd have something to update.

Junk old stock 5.0
C6 with a FMRPVB Kevlar band and some nice clutches
NP208(<--with hopes of turning into a range box backed by a 205)
44/9" Electrac in the front, detroit in the rear stuffed with 5.13s
dual triangulated rear with stock rubi coils
Radius arm front with some junk stock arms armored and extended(and now bent thanks to some hardcore bashing in chinquipin) 5.5" EB coils

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/before.jpg



I put the engine in with Novak SBF engine mounts. They weren't beefy enough and bent to hell, so with the help of my friend Jesster, we straightened them and FIXED the problem. I made the harness utilizing the the stock jeep underhood relay/fuse box. The ECM is mounted on a stock ECM bracket out of an 87 4.2 YJ(same Ford ECM case) behind the glovebox. Exhaust is routed down the passenger side, swooping from the drivers manifold under the pan and hitting the passenger side at the bottom of the frame. I used an all brass HD 3 core radiator for a 4.2L YJ; a flex a lite flex fan, and a 12" electric puller between the rad and engine fan.
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/engine1.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/bling.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/enginex2.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/enginex4.jpg

Hmmm... I was wondering if those mounts were any good. Now I know.

I'm interested in where/how you are doing your spudshaft for the 208/205 doubler.....(I have both at home and am wanting to do the same thing)

If you have a spudshaft made, let me know as I am interested in buying one, as well.

Steve

Subscribed... :flipoff2:

I have the same axle configuration, D44/9", in my CJ with the Detroit Electrac up front. Do you have problems with your Electrac like not wanting to engage?

I've had lots of trouble out of it. The engaging problem I had turned out to be loose bolts. The SHCS that hold the two halves of the locker together were all loose. may want to check that. While I had it out, I took it apart, which gave me great insight into how it's supposed to work. That insight made my adjustments much more accurate and ever since then it's worked absolutely flawlessly.

Hmmm... I was wondering if those mounts were any good. Now I know.

They were both bent all the way up into the manifolds before me and Jess straightened them. Once they got into the manifolds, the leverage pulled the threads outta the block on the drivers side. I tapped and installed 1/2" bolts in the block before reainstalling it. Seems to be working well now.

Doubler will be a project for later.

why dont you use a 300 for a doubler. its a lot lighter and strong enough for what your building.

I've had lots of trouble out of it. The engaging problem I had turned out to be loose bolts.


Thanks, that's good to know, I will check that. I have talked to Eaton (Detroit) numerous times and all they could tell me was to check the shift-fork adjustment. I'm about ready to ditch it for a full Detroit but I'll check the bolts first; that would definitely be much cheaper. Especially since I just laid out cash for ARB's, gears, etc. for my D60's going in my comp build.

A flat belly was the only way to go considering how low I was trying to keep this rig. It is by no stretch of the imagination LOW; but with a wheelbase of 108.5 and 36" tires, I knew the belly was gonna be draggin. Here's what it took to get my C6 and 208 up high enough to have a flat belly. The 208 is clocked flat using a D&D clocking ring and the front driveshaft is 2 piece with a pillow block mounted off the front of the tranny crossmember. The front shaft is a stock '77 F-150 shaft; short, high, and outta the way. I don't have any finished pics; but if someone wants to see it I'll gladly snap a couple tomorrow evening while I'm working on it. You can see the radius arm mounts in the pics; so I'll post a pic of what the arms look like. I don't have a really good pic of the pass arm; but it's just like the drivers only wristed. Stock radius arms; no matter how armored; are shit. They have gotten the job done(otherwise I'd call them worthless) but are bent and mangled to fawk.

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/highenough1.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/highenough2.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/crossmember1.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/crossmember3.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/crossmember4.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/finalposition.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8648&stc=1&d=1158549079
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/clockflat.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/clockflat3.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/clockflat4.jpg

So they are the same as these? They look a little different. Not much, but a little. I'm really trying to avoid making my own mounts.

Do you have any more details on the front suspension set up. What are the doner parts for the set up. The guys that I wheel with all run old Broncos that come stock with this set up. We have looked at it alot and think it can be done. You have done it on a YJ so I was wondering what all you have in it. Sorry for the odd newbie request but looking for some insight from someone who has done it. Radius arms seem like the simplest way to go.

I'm really trying to avoid making my own mounts.

..you would, ya big ol' vagina.


:flipoff2:

So they are the same as these? They look a little different. Not much, but a little. I'm really trying to avoid making my own mounts.

yep; those look very similar... WEAKSAUCE... Gotta tie them together and they'll be fine. By themselfs they'd probably last forever in a street/mild trail rig, but they couldn't stand up to the kind of beating I unleashed on them.

Lower links are 2" .375 DOM with 1" heims and high misalignment spacers. I made the inserts on the lathe, they slide into the tube 3" and are plug welded as you can see. The uppers are 1.5" .250 and use 7/8" heim joints. Used a Ballistic Fab frame side lower link mount and a Ruff Stuff truss(<-- beef). The frame side upper link mounts are gusseted/tied in Ballistic mounts. I made the lower axle side mounts myelf from 3/8" plate. The coils are stock Rubicons. Brakes are F150 rotors, using chevy k10 calipers mounted with ruff stuff brackets. The rear is stretched 15". The Hi lift was used to add stability.

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/link1.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/truss1.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/linkmount1.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/4link10.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/4link11.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/flex11.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/crossmember5.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/coil1.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/coil3.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/brake1.jpg

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/rearshock.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/frog1.jpg

Upper Link mount brace/tie ins
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/upperxmember3.jpg

Brake Line Routing

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/brake2.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/brake3.jpg

Hey those are my rubi springs! :) Funny thing. The replacements you gave me from chris's jeep are taller than those that came from mine. I pulled that lift off the ole rubi and now the rear end sits like 1.5" taller than the front does. I think I've got another set of stockers from another rubi to put back in mine though.

Better make room in that garage for my buggy. I've collected some parts for you to install while I get used to having a new born baby around :D

..you would, ya big ol' vagina.


:flipoff2:

I hate you...

yep; those look very similar... WEAKSAUCE... Gotta tie them together and they'll be fine. By themselfs they'd probably last forever in a street/mild trail rig, but they couldn't stand up to the kind of beating I unleashed on them.

Looks like I'll be building my own. Thanks for the heads up.

Swapped in a D60 with full hydro. It's an 88 Ford High pinion running 79 dodge SRW hubs 35spline outters with spicer 35spl drive flanges. I welded the third for now; the ARB will have to wait. Front axle is pushed forward 6". The uptravel is right at 2.5" at ride height. I'd like to have a bit more, but simply don't have the time to do a frame chop and radiator swap; so it'll wait as well. It really sucks to try and web wheel when you're used to having a rig. The front driveshaft is a 2 piece with slips on both sides of the bearing. The front coils are 4" TJs; going from the EB coils to these should be a fairly lateral move as the spring rates are very close.

Crossmember is 2x3 1/4 wall. doesn't hang down too bad and with the mounts being centered it shouldn't catch near as much as the old radius arm mounts. All mounting holes have been sleeved through the frame to prevent crush/loosening of the bolts.
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/P1010235.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/P1010236.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/P1010238.jpg

Link material is the same as the rear. 2" .375 on the lowers and 1.5" .250 uppers. I decided to make the upper mount on the lowers using a weld on RE joint as there is no need for adjustment there. Forgive the pinion angle... the uppers aren't attatched in these pics.

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/links8.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/links6.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/links9.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/links5.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/links3.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/links2.jpg
http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/links1.jpg

final wheelbase is 115" and belly/frame height is 24.5"

It's done now and been on one trip... Everything worked great. The weld on the front driveshaft just contacts the upper link when the passenger side is completely dropped out tne the drivers is completely stuff, but its not a big deal, just made it shiny and self clearanced. I'll have to take some pics of the small exhaust that had to be weaved around the pan, driveshaft, and links. It's probably a little restrictive, but I didn't notice it when I was boiling smoke offa the tires. It does appear to have much better low end with the small exhaust and little effect on top end.
- I cut the ballistic buckets off where they hung down below the frame after these pics were taken and before I took it out as well.

-The full hydro is awesome! even with my junk ford pump(i didn't upgrade only drilled the fitting). I added capacity by cutting the filler neck in two and adding a section of radiator hose in the middle. Total capacity is right at 1gal now. I did use tractor hydraulic/transmission fluid rather than P/S fluid(which shows no ill effects to this point).

-Uptravel in the front is limited to the same as the rear(2.5"). The bumpstops don't last really long at this height as it hits them quite often at some speed on a rough trail; but the balance/performance in the rocks is wonderful. I hope to be able to put hydraulic bumps on it one day.

-The front coils are 4" lift TJs and are plety soft. I really like how they ride and work. The flex is INSANE!! I need to add limit straps; but right now a cable wrapped and clamped around the spring and bucket combined with the shock travel keeps them in check.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=137&pictureid=2052
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=137&pictureid=2053
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=137&pictureid=2122
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=137&pictureid=2119
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=137&pictureid=2055
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=137&pictureid=2155
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=137&pictureid=2156

Just curious about the tubing you tied into the motor mounts that goes under the oil pan. Why didnt you flange it so you could remove it from under the rig in case you have an oil pan issue? Seems like it would be a huge pain to have to lift the motor up to remove the mounts just to service the underside of the motor. Maybe is just the angle im looking at it.. can it still slide out the rear or will the pick up get in the way?

Luke

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/brake2.jpg

i don't like where you put the hard lines. i guess it depends on how/where you wheel, but i back into rocks all the time. especially when you get jammed up a little. if my hard lines were located where yours are, i would have probably had to replace them at least 10 times by now.

sub s

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/brake2.jpg

i don't like where you put the hard lines. i guess it depends on how/where you wheel, but i back into rocks all the time. especially when you get jammed up a little. if my hard lines were located where yours are, i would have probably had to replace them at least 10 times by now.

Yup I've replaced 3 in two years... They need to be moved to the top, just haven't fooled with it. I keep a spare piece with me and if I kink another up I just bleed the caliper and leave it pinched.

sub s

?? what ??

Got any more plans for the 208/205 setup? Lookin' @ the same thing on my brother's dodge.

Just curious about the tubing you tied into the motor mounts that goes under the oil pan. Why didnt you flange it so you could remove it from under the rig in case you have an oil pan issue?
Luke

Actually it's very easy to remove the crossmember. I put a little tension on the two engine lift points(factory) and then unbolt and slide the whole assembly right out. Took about 10 minutes to put it back in by myself after I welded the tube accross it. Before I put the engine in; I did a new timing set, oil pump including ARP driveshaft, and gasket kit. So I don't have any plans to remove it soon. My trans dipstick tube is leaking pretty bad now(lack of silicone when installing it) and it looks like I'm actually gonna have to support the engine from the top and lower it down in the chassis just a little bit to get to the bellhousing bolt securing it.

Got any more plans for the 208/205 setup? Lookin' @ the same thing on my brother's dodge.
Still planning on some variant of a doubler... Considering my options and will probably start on that next winter.

Are those still the 36s? Are the axles in the 9" stock? And what did you do to match the lug patterns?

Thanks,
Dale

39.5 TSLs. Stock shafts in the 9" till I go through my spares. knock on wood, haven't broken a shaft. The lug patterns don't match. Recentered the wheels with 5 lug in the rear and 8 in the front. It's a trail truck so tire rotation isn't a big deal.

Ka Boom!
http://www.rrorc.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12507&stc=1&d=1234202448
http://www.rrorc.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12508&stc=1&d=1234202448

Who's springs are you running in the front?

oops! Spoke to soon did ya! where did you get your upper link mounts for the front? poly has some killer ones but yeah i'm not forking out that kinda cash. How did those ballistic buckets work out.I was considering them but had some metal laying around so I made my own. still might get some though.

so how many trips did you get outta thoses stock axles. i'm running 39 iroks. the D44 will have 35 chromo's and a detroit hopefully that will hold up for a while.the 9" has 31 chromo full floater kit and detroit. did you ever look into moser eng. they have 40spline and a spool for 800 bucks.

I got two trips out of them... the splines are twisted all to fawk and may have been like that for quite a while... I hadn't pulled the shafts in a year :shaking: Front springs are Rough Country. A buddy of mine had them and best he could remember that's what they were. They worked out great. I'm very happy with the balance I have now. They flex great and the shorter spring lenth is days and nights ahead of the EB coils(same springrate) I was running. I already have a good jump on the rear end fix. Picked this jewel up Sunday. I swapped it to SRW hubs and disassembled my carrier for welding tonight. Should have and chance to set up the gear this weekend then all I lack is some tabs.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_aVwUVl4su68/SccL26tuypI/AAAAAAAAAVM/J06opf5nIV0/s800/P1010008.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_aVwUVl4su68/SccL5h4JcsI/AAAAAAAAAVU/yuno36E1CZs/s800/P1010009.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_aVwUVl4su68/SccL7hFV7iI/AAAAAAAAAVc/rrkW_NW_UZE/s800/P1010010.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_aVwUVl4su68/SccMGpjEpBI/AAAAAAAAAWI/UdG6NlBqSTI/s800/P1010015.JPG

where did you get your upper link mounts for the front? poly has some killer ones but yeah i'm not forking out that kinda cash. How did those ballistic buckets work out.I was considering them but had some metal laying around so I made my own. still might get some though.

Ballistic frame side mounts and buckets worked well. I did have to modify the frame mount on the pass side to clear the starter, but all of that turned out nice. The buckets work really good. The adjustability is nice.

so what did the 14B get you for?

I should have gone straight to the 60 and 14 but at the time I just bought custom beadlocks and they were 5x5.5 so I stayed small not knowing what I was getting into.

so what did the 14B get you for?

I bought it just like it sits(minus the carrier and SRW hubs) from a guy on this board for $500.

I should have gone straight to the 60 and 14 but at the time I just bought custom beadlocks and they were 5x5.5 so I stayed small not knowing what I was getting into.

Man I had a lot of fun in my jeep with the 36s like it was. If I had put a new 4340 long side shaft in it and CTMs I'd never had a problem running 36s and I beat on it hard. I just wasn't interested in dropping that much more money in a 44.

I've dropped a grip on the 44. 4340 completes randy's ujoints detroit locker 4.88 gears and deadenbear knuckles with BTF high steer arms then the full PSC hydro kit. oh and a BTF truss