OK, new Rad's are over $400 (closer to $500). I got a call into a source that I thought was in the $300's before but that may have changed will all the price increases.

Re-core is all of $300 +/- (just stopped and checked it out).


What alternatives have folks run with success (that are cheaper). This is on the race truck/trail pig, inner fenders are got, rad support is two piece of angle iron. I'd rather not reinvent the wheel, but I need something quick and "cheap" that fits approximately in the stock opening.



I'll spend some time with the search here soon, but figured I'd get the question out there first.

local junk yard, i think i paid 40 bucks at the U-Pull & Pay

I've always just gone the recore route unless one of the tanks was wasted and couldn't be reused. Last time I had an SII radiator recored, it was about $200-$250 but that was 4 or 5 year ago.

local junk yard, i think i paid 40 bucks at the U-Pull & Pay

Not going to happen. Almost no Scouts in any local yards here, plus I have like (5) "core" radiators here... all out of "junk" scouts.... and all need work (took (3) the the rad shop this morning to find out about test/re-core etc and he directly stated (2) of them are re-core fodder, the other one *might* be salvageable... but you wouldn't know till you got into it.

I've always just gone the recore route unless one of the tanks was wasted and couldn't be reused. Last time I had an SII radiator recored, it was about $200-$250 but that was 4 or 5 year ago.

Might go that route for 'bolt and go'... but I'm considering an non-IH rad. Something 'off the shelf', more readily available and cheaper. Poking around on Parts America and Rock Auto looks like I can get a Ford F250 rad, to my door for about $160. Similar dimensions, inlet and outlet on the right sides. Only down side is the inlet is 1.5" and the outlet is 1.75".... vs the Scout 2". Don't like the reduction, don't know if it would make a difference... but the price it right, I would have to rig up some sort of mounting (since the clamp in not bolt in like the IH units), but cheaper to replace when I roll it, or put a stick through is or.....

I can get a Ford F250 rad, to my door for about $160. Similar dimensions, inlet and outlet on the right sides. Only down side is the inlet is 1.5" and the outlet is 1.75"....

Could you buy this rad then have the rad shop change the outlet size? I had this done to a rad once but don't remember the price...

Could you buy this rad then have the rad shop change the outlet size? I had this done to a rad once but don't remember the price...
I had the same thought... just called the Rad shop... without seeing it, and depending on if we canablized a SII rad or not (or just went with strait nipples) he through out a number of $100.... plus a little more to solder some brackets on to mimic the SII mounting.


Starts adding up, and then I'm at custom stuff as well and loose the 'quick, cheap and easy' replacement...


anyone running 'adapted' rad necks (small to large IH stuff)??? Any issues?

Went ahead and ordered this:
http://info.rockauto.com/SPI/CU561.html

And I'll see about making it fit and work. I think I'm just going to adapt the hoses for now and see how it works, get a Taurus fan and cross my fingers.


Can't be any worse that what I got now :flipoff2:

I was kind of looking forward to seeing if the old rad had any of that old red/brown gunk left in it:flipoff2: Fan to ship on Fri

I was kind of looking forward to seeing if the old rad had any of that old red/brown gunk left in it:flipoff2:

I'll bring it with me if you want and you can take it home with you :D

Fan to ship on Fri

sweet, I'm glad to hear that the Chicago warehouse still has them in stock :D. Might be looking for another one for the garage art if/when I ever get back to that.

For future reference checkout www.radiatorsupplyhouse.com They are in Sweet Home Oregon.

I havent used them myself but from what i have been told they are one of the main supply houses for your local shops. Its worth a shot, i know they are cheap.

Get the measurements from your rad (height, width, depth), also note locations of the outlets. Then got to SummitRacing and get a good generic fit one and have a local welder weld on some tabs and change the inlets to fit the IH motor. This is what I did with Rusty's rad and it worked great. The rad cost me about $200, TIG welded mods to fit $90. Much better than a copper core rad.

Get the measurements from your rad (height, width, depth), also note locations of the outlets. Then got to SummitRacing and get a good generic fit one and have a local welder weld on some tabs and change the inlets to fit the IH motor. This is what I did with Rusty's rad and it worked great. The rad cost me about $200, TIG welded mods to fit $90. Much better than a copper core rad.

I just bolted a bracket to the flanges, worked in my yota, will work in my scout.. someday..

Get the measurements from your rad (height, width, depth), also note locations of the outlets. Then got to SummitRacing and get a good generic fit one and have a local welder weld on some tabs and change the inlets to fit the IH motor. This is what I did with Rusty's rad and it worked great. The rad cost me about $200, TIG welded mods to fit $90. Much better than a copper core rad.

Change the inlets? I had no problem finding a generic radiator with inlets in the correct positions. Also, the factory mounting system tends to rip radiators in two. Better to make a custom cradle system. Otherwise your advice is spot-on. :flipoff2:

Much better than a copper core rad.

why do you say that?


Copper core's have been the standard for decades. What makes an aluminum better than a copper?


Quick google search resulted in the basics of: 'copper cools better but aluminium is cheaper and lighter and cools almost as good'


so I guess its 6 of one, 1/2 doz of the other. We'll see how this F250 Rad works out and go from there. Again, from the search its not so much the material, but the air-flow through is.

My thought on an "off the shelf" radiator is that if I ever kill it, expecialy in the boonies, I can quickly source a new one and slap it in (doubt that will really be an issue).

For my Garage Art I'll probably go the Summit AL unit... cheap and easy. Plus all the cool kids are doing it :D

Change the inlets? I had no problem finding a generic radiator with inlets in the correct positions.
Although I'd be very surprised to see it, then give us a Part number and pic please. I got a cheap and had the inlets changed to utilize stock radiator hoses.

Also, the factory mounting system tends to rip radiators in two. Better to make a custom cradle system. Otherwise your advice is spot-on. :flipoff2:
That right there will scare most guys off. I think most just want to be able to bolt one in and go.

why do you say that?
Copper core's have been the standard for decades.
So have stamped links and control arms. But I like tube myself. ;)

What makes an aluminum better than a copper?
Quick google search resulted in the basics of: 'copper cools better but aluminium is cheaper and lighter and cools almost as good'
Cheaper, ya, so why does having your rad re-cored cost upwards of $300? Why does a new rad cost close to $500?

Your right, copper is cheaper ~ and is why the industry used it. Heck, GM took out the power-take-off ring in their allison transmissions simply because it saved them $20. You would have to have your NEW trans REBUILT if you wanted to run a PTO accesory such as hydraulics, a winch, or the new 'on board' air compressors. So the 'cheaper' arguement doesn't quite stand.

But your hit one thing on the head ~ 'and cools ALMOST as good'

so I guess its 6 of one, 1/2 doz of the other.
I modified a Jeep 3-row copper for Snoopy. It worked fine coupled with an electric fan, in fact, it'd burry the temp-gauge needle if I left the fan on. With Rusty, I ran with aluminum. Both worked good enough ~ but when dollars came to paso's ~ the aluminum was easier and cheaper to buy and rework to fit.

For my Garage Art I'll probably go the Summit AL unit... cheap and easy.
Wait a second, weren't we disagreeing a second ago? I thought the cooper is cheaper and lighter and all that stuff.

Plus all the cool kids are doing it :D
That's why I do it!:smokin:

My opinion.....Copper has been the OEM standard for decades due to ease of mass production more than anything. Soldering bowls onto rads is faster than TIG any day. I'm not sure OEM would readily accept epoxy rads back in the day of inferior glues....

Wait a second, weren't we disagreeing a second ago? I thought the cooper is cheaper and lighter and all that stuff.

[foghorn leghorn voice] now pay attention son.[/foghorn leghorn voice]

Actually I said ALUMINUM was cheaper and lighter... ever priced copper wire vs AL wire? Cheaper and Lighter, and works *almost* as good, or "good enough" its probably the OEM reason.

My opinion.....Copper has been the OEM standard for decades due to ease of mass production more than anything. Soldering bowls onto rads is faster than TIG any day. I'm not sure OEM would readily accept epoxy rads back in the day of inferior glues....

now that I could agree with. I actually don't take too much stock in what "OEM's" do vs what better. Things like mass produced vehicles are built on the cheap and easy, not necessarily the better components. Stamped Steel control arms are used because you can bang them out real quick, they are relatively cheap (on a mass scale) and work "just fine", Cast Aluminum control arms came about probably for the same reasons, you can make them pretty easy and cheap with simple tooling, and they give that added "racing bling" that folks like. Probably similar to AL radiators... race cars have them, and my car has them.. my car must be a race car!! (or bling coil-overs one your pavement pounder F350 :laughing:)


but we digress, this is about rads for our wheeling junk. As long as it doesn't overheat on the trail and I become "that guy".... I'm good.

As long as it doesn't overheat on the trail and I become "that guy".... I'm good.

That would be nice for a change.:flipoff2::laughing:

I can only say that now because I have my own cooling issues worked out thanks to Chiscouter.:D

That would be nice for a change.:flipoff2::laughing:

I can only say that now because I have my own cooling issues worked out thanks to Chiscouter.:D
:D:D


I do believe Chi's got me hooked up as well.

Good, Fast, Cheap Pick two as the remaining option will NOT be true.Here is a summit version that will work. $269
Griffin 1-56222http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D56222%2DX&N=4294839040+115&autoview=sku 26 L x 19 H 2 row 1.25 tubes

Or a bit wider if your willing to do some trimming same price $269, but the same sq in as stock.
Griffin 1-56272 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D56272%2DX&N=700+115&autoview=sku 31 L x 19 H 2 row 1.25 tubes

You will want a cradle to keep the tanks from splitting.

I just looked at like 20 different radiators in the JY, none are bigger than a ScoutII in SQ inches of surface. Even the claimed 76 eldorado with the 500 motor is very close to the same size. 552sq in vs the Scout at 529 https://www.radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator
This site give you a picture of the each radiator which makes it easy to look at sizes.

As for the inlet outlet hole causing an issue, find a old Russian emigrant he will have that radiator installing and working in minutes:flipoff2:

What hoses do you use with that radiator?

What hoses do you use with that radiator?


For a Scout II you could use a 74 pickup truck hose as they have the extra bend at the upper end, but good luck finding those. I would just get some 2" exhaust tubing "J" bend and make your bends as needed or extensions. I just welded a lip on the end of the tubing to keep it from leaking. You can put a stock ford hose on there and then clamp the ScoutII hose over it or use an exhaust tubing reducer in the loop. Since I have a body lift and moved the engine back, I made some mods to the stock radiators hoses.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/gri-1-56222-x_w.jpg

http://www.ihonlynorth.com/forums/attachments/fabrication/1061d1196745369-engine-motor-mount-moved-back-2-5-rad-hose-3.jpg

http://www.ihonlynorth.com/forums/attachments/fabrication/1062d1196745369-engine-motor-mount-moved-back-2-5-rad-hose-4.jpg

That right there will scare most guys off. I think most just want to be able to bolt one in and go.


You were just talking about changing inlets and now a couple of brackets is too much hassle? :shaking:

Perhaps, but having a TIG guy ~ or a rad shop, change some outlets is a whole lot different than building a cradle.

Perhaps, but having a TIG guy ~ or a rad shop, change some outlets is a whole lot different than building a cradle.

I know several have done the cradle thing. I have not "yet" It can be as simple as a piece of 2" flat bar that goes from body mount to body mount under the radiator.
There is room to put a gentle bend in the flat bar, if you need the radiator to sit a bit lower. For the top you will need to find a Ford or Chevy in the JY to get some stamped top clamps with the rubber pads, or make your own.
I would mount the the shroud to the body and seal it to the radiator with foam tape to even that rubber sided foil tape :evil: warning that stuff sticks like glue, but a heat gun and a rag you can get it back off.

Tapp (http://tappinc.net/page3.html)sells an aluminum rad for the same price as the IH vendors brass radiators, but with an aluminum rad you need to keep up on the cooling system as your new rad will be the sacrificial anode now:eek:

edit.. I would recommend adding some of this click here (http://www.shopih.com/COOLANT-TREATMENT-p-C6.html)I'm not recommending this because IHO Jeff is a good friend of mine, but because it does wonders for these old cooling systems. I saw the insides of my 30 year old radiator go from old penny color to new copper/brass color in one day!!

Perhaps, but having a TIG guy ~ or a rad shop, change some outlets is a whole lot different than building a cradle.

Your logic is impeccable. :laughing:

Bolt-on is great until it fails you on the trail. More than one person has learned that the hard way with your bolt-on bumpers. :shaking:

I know several have done the cradle thing. I have not "yet" It can be as simple as a piece of 2" flat bar that goes from body mount to body mount under the radiator.
There is room to put a gentle bend in the flat bar, if you need the radiator to sit a bit lower. For the top you will need to find a Ford or Chevy in the JY to get some stamped top clamps with the rubber pads, or make your own.


Thanks R290. I think the first time Snoopy sees a SII radiator dump it's entire contents on the trail in 4-seconds flat he'll be changing his tune.

http://www.jamesduff.com/images/eb/3107.jpg

More than one person has learned that the hard way with your bolt-on bumpers. :shaking:Nice jab :shaking:

http://www.jamesduff.com/images/eb/3107.jpg
For some reason, I pictured a cradle being something different, but since that's what you're talking about, I see how changing the mounts to this style would be easier and not promote failures

edit.. I would recommend adding some of this click here (http://www.shopih.com/COOLANT-TREATMENT-p-C6.html)I'm not recommending this because IHO Jeff is a good friend of mine, but because it does wonders for these old cooling systems. I saw the insides of my 30 year old radiator go from old penny color to new copper/brass color in one day!!
Good stuff! I'll have to try that.

Thanks R290. I think the first time Snoopy sees a SII radiator dump it's entire contents on the trail in 4-seconds flat he'll be changing his tune.

http://www.jamesduff.com/images/eb/3107.jpg

Well that's what I get for talking about it. I split my tank this weekend on the Con run. It was just a small drip drip leak and not a dump the whole thing. I even drilled out the mounting holes and installed some poly bushing for more flex. So I will figure out how to just have the side bolts in loose and clamp the top and bottom with some of those brackets.

Well that's what I get for talking about it. I split my tank this weekend on the Con run. It was just a small drip drip leak and not a dump the whole thing. I even drilled out the mounting holes and installed some poly bushing for more flex. So I will figure out how to just have the side bolts in loose and clamp the top and bottom with some of those brackets.

Happened to me too on the '05 Con run. Then again about a year later at Flat Nasty. I'll be figuring out a craddle/clamp system for mine as well.

Happened to me too on the '05 Con run. Then again about a year later at Flat Nasty. I'll be figuring out a craddle/clamp system for mine as well.
Huh.

All of mine have always leaked a little. I always just chocked it up to old/crappy radiators (never have bought a new one). But the more we think about it them more it makes sense why every Scout rad I've come across (in junk scouts) leaks a little.


Update for those that are interested. I'm an idiot. Even thought I know this, when I was looking at different rads. I brain farted on the fact that radiator dimensions are given in "core size" and I was using "over-all size" for my comparisons :banghead:

So, the F250 Rad that I chose is way to big to reasonably make fit with the configuration of the front of my truck (as it currently is). No time or desire for a complete frontendadectimy, so I chose my "best" JY rad (this one even has a tranny cooler!!), I'm going to fill it up with "stop leak" (:D), put a Taurus fan behind it (thank Chi!) and hope for the best. Going to have to space the radiator out to get it to fit with the fan (those things are pretty big), but I think I got it all figured out. I thought about using rubber isolators to "cushion" the rad, but the store was out of the size I needed, and its only one run before the whole thing comes apart so.....

I think the Taurus fan is going to be the ticket. I only had a fixed, 4-blade fan with no shroud before that "worked". And seemed to be sufficient most of the time, it was just after 5-6 hours of decently hard running and HOT days it wasn't happy.


we'll see. Might even throw a Robert-Shaw t-stat in it since I have one sitting on the shelf... but don't know if I really want to waste it.

I'll be figuring out a craddle/clamp system for mine as well.

If you are thinking about fabbing up some brackets, most older Chevys use the craddle mounts.... used them on the upper and lower for my caddy radiator and never had a problem yet :flipoff2:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/scout254/PB020028a.jpg

You can find these (upper or lower) radiator brackets at any GM store.. or at Chevy Duty, LMC, ChevyLand, etc :flipoff2:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/scout254/stuff/chevyradmounts.jpg

If you are thinking about fabbing up some brackets, most older Chevys use the craddle mounts.... used them on the upper and lower for my caddy radiator and never had a problem yet :flipoff2:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/scout254/PB020028a.jpg

You can find these (upper or lower) radiator brackets at any GM store.. or at Chevy Duty, LMC, ChevyLand, etc :flipoff2:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/scout254/stuff/chevyradmounts.jpg

That's cool... I figured someone somewhere sold the stock replacements. I'm just going to grab a some from any of the gazillion Chevy cars/trucks at the JY.

That's cool... I figured someone somewhere sold the stock replacements. I'm just going to grab a some from any of the gazillion Chevy cars/trucks at the JY.

Fords and Chevy's will work, I found a Ford clamp that fit to the Scout radiator real nice.

Update to my universal replacement. I did not have the money to get a Tapp radiator, so I got a universal Ford replacement from summit. Everything was looking good had the bottom mounts finished and working on the top clamps. Went to finish it up this weekend and realized the radiator was no longer the highest point in the system. I thought about a cap extender, short extension used raise the cap.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Tools_folder/sirtools/VZ28-detail.jpg

But decide it would be better to just rasie the radiator up a few inches. So much for test driving it this past weekend. That meant the outlet came out in the middle of the power steering belt, but the 97 ford van has a nice 90 in the hose, so that worked out fine, just needed to make a U turn to go back into the Scout water pump. Off the parts store for some exhaust 2" U-bend. I tapered one end to fit the 1 3/4 Radiator hose. Got it painted and should have it installed later in the week, just need to redo the bottom mounts:homer: Note: to self, get a second job and buy the Tapp radiator next time!

did an aluminum griffin in my 78 scout 2 from summit,called them,gave him the measurements and it was 180 shipped had to fab mounts but better than 500

this thread has me intrigued. stopped at summit racing and in their clearance scratch and dent area i saw an aluminum rad that was summits universal. 30.8" wide by 19" tall. i am thinking about grabbing it tomorrow if it's in there. looks like i will have to move the rad up in front of the old support and use the cradle system, which i like anyway.
a friend of mine mounted his stock rad with bushings from an escort. lets everything flex some without "tearing" his rad which he had done a few times.

looks like this aluminum rad will work with some mods and you all have inspired me to go for it!

I had mine mounted with some poly bushings, but it did not allow enough flex. (Partly cracked before the poly mounts got installed, but not leaking) Some folks have hoops, or exo that stiffen up the front end. I could have ordered one to fit, but hey what fun it that:homer: I got the biggest mo fo they had in stock. 31" wide and 1.25 tubes:smokin: I save a few hundred bucks, but it cost me several days to figure out how I wanted to install the damm thing. Classic trial and error until I got it the way I wanted it.

Thanks to Jesse for saving the day and coming up with some self stick rubber pads from McMasters. That made holding the radiator in place a lot easier.