Victor
08-01-2002, 10:33 AM
I'm doing a SOA conversion on my YJ tomorrow and have a question about shackle length. Right now I am running BDS 3 1/2 in springs using greasable shackles that are 1 inch longer than stock (lift 1/2 in).When I do the SOA I am switching to stock YJ rear springs all around with an added stock mainleaf (6 pack total). The question is , should I use the 1/2 in lift shackles or revert to stock length? The only reason that I ask is that we will be setting the castor when welding the perches and it makes a couple of degrees of difference. Any opinion, or is it just personal preference?
Keith Strong
08-01-2002, 11:53 AM
Cmon Victor.....you know better than to ask a :rainbow: question like that here :p Use what you want man, it doesnt mater.
Victor
08-01-2002, 12:17 PM
I know, I just figured that it couldn't hurt to ask. ask a silly question...
Sillyneck
08-01-2002, 12:30 PM
:D
use the longer shackles....more leverage and they won't bend and snap off like mine did :D
Recurve
08-01-2002, 01:55 PM
Actually it's a very good question that should get more consideration than it does. Shackle length should be a TOTW sometime. Read this and then make a logical decision. Disregard the shackle reversal stuff. http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/susp/elkcahs/
With the flat springs you will be using I'd go with a beefed up short shackle. A longer shackle will make your springs arch more under compression. Might lead to sag or bent springs. Also, approach angle is not infringed.
EDIT: Just reread your post. 1/2" lift isn't that much and probably won't matter.
ROKWALKER
08-01-2002, 09:17 PM
1" longer shackles won't make too much a difference. A TINY loss in approach but, that's it.
Victor
08-01-2002, 11:04 PM
Thanks guys. Oh, and ask a silly question...ya get sillyneck to answer :D guess you couldn't resist
Victor
08-08-2002, 01:34 PM
Aha! it wasn't a stupid question after all. I went ahead with the longer shackles, everything felt fine till I took a good look at the way the drag link was rubbing on the passenger side spring pack. It had actually rubbed a raw spot on the drag link itself and that means pressure on the steering and potential steering failure. What does this have to do with shackles? Well, as a quick fix I put on the stock shorter shackles and shimmed in 2.5 degrees for caster. Now there is about 1/2 inch clearance there. Not enough for flex on the trail but enough that with the swaybar attached on the highway I don't worry about my draglink popping off before I get my S'd link made up!
Travis Waldher
08-08-2002, 02:23 PM
How about longer shackle, bump stop for less compression to stop reverse arc. But get more droop out of it due to shackle movement.
Victor
08-08-2002, 05:11 PM
Nope, with a longer shackle it rubs sitting flat with the wheels pointed forwards. Short shackle doesn't rub at all with the swaybar connected(I tested it both ways by hitting it with spray paint, going for a drive and looking to see if the paint rubbed off). this will be fine till I get the modified drag link
1BDYJ
08-08-2002, 05:40 PM
Be carefull with degree shims in the front!!
Sideways forces on front ends are very hard on shims....tending to move them or spit them out.
Make sure you keep your u-bolts tight and keep checkin them.
Watch for the shims turning under the spring...it's real easy to see
Victor
08-08-2002, 05:50 PM
I've used shims for years. They mash and disfigure a bit, but so far no problems. the 2 1/2 degree shims are thin and so aren't as prone to problems as the thicker ones. I keep my U bolts torqued at 90 lbs, so far so good.