Its way past the time that I build a rear anti-wrap bar... you can see in the pic below that I often try to turn my rear axle into a toploader!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/mtnbikn/badegg.jpg

Description is in my sig... 64s in the rear, I know I need to get a better rear shackle angle.

I was thinking about building something similar to Kert @ DIYs "Wraptor", but got to thinking about it and I dont know if I need to get that complicated.

What I want to know from you FULLSIZE guys is who is running what and what kind of difference have you noticed in axle wrap and traction. Does it bounce less?

Also if you have a flex pic I would love to see it

Gabe

PS: I have searched and read and read again, I just want some current opinions from guys running big tires with heavy rigs... thanks:flipoff2:

Check mine.
No wrap, and I've been doing burnouts, on the 49's, and when I do the truck jacks up. No hopping.

mine doesnt limit flex. its a single sided bar built like a ladder bar but with a shackle on the forward end. angle and placement of the ladder bar will determine load placement on the tire. it turns it into a ladder bar, in that the end of the frame where the shackle attaches becomes the lifted part.the shackle simply allows it to articulate.

If everything goes right, I will have some pictures for ya when I get back stateside the end of the week.

I am running 44 boggers and 310:1 gearing, so it sees plenty of torque load. :D

We have a couple rigs running this set up in our group, its simple, shackle at the frame side. My truck weighs 6700 lbs and the only thing I broke was a bolt due to a rock hitting the bracket.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f27/M-1028/P1010142.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f27/M-1028/P1010150.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f27/M-1028/P1010151.jpg

Im assuming that you are using the frame side heim with misalignment spacers? If so does this allow for enough rotation of the axle durring hard flex?
gabe

I use bushings on all three sides of my link, which is much like those built by M1028. There wont be any bind from the link, if you only use one. You dont need more than one per axle, so it does make packaging easier. When you put two per axle on the rig it might limit flex.

fawk, just 4 link it. :flipoff2:

This is the best pic of rear flex I have at work. If you search at CK5 under my username 79chevyk10 you'll find better. Had to measure front limit strap length due to blowing out 1350 cv's from overflex at got 43" from ground to bottom of rear tire and had more in it, but not the front driveline... anyway.

My traction bar is mounded on the pass side tube with Johnnie joints at all three points with a 7" shackle at crossmember. The bar is same length as rear driveline and doesn't limit flex at all. I have ran it for 4 years now and have conquered ledges that none of my friends can do. I get anit-squat (rear lifts up under accel) as a result. You really need to do one before you spin a tube or snap a yoke.

Ill be building one before the K5 sees dirt again. I have broken a DS yoke, but if I spin a tube on the eaton I would be really Focked :rolleyes::flipoff2:

Thats pretty much the design I have been thinking. Has anyone made one like the one below?

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/mtnbikn/antiwrapidea.jpg

using a pivot bearing like this one from rocklogic4x4.com

http://www.rocklogic4x4.com/uploads/products/403_image1.jpg

I was thinking it would allow for unlimited movement as far as flexing goes while keeping the pinion angle consistant.

what are your thoughts, opinions, bacon recipies...:homer:

Bushings would be fine IMO if they were as close to center as possible. If you have to be off center, I perfer to have joints to eliminate having the bushings wearing out after 10 trips or so.
Your design will work tits...I think.

Attatched is a pic of the traction bar I made and a poser flex pic described above in my pervious post.

would the shackle work on the top??

would the shackle work on the top??If you are asking if the shackle should be in tension, or compression, I usually see them set up in tension if you do a shackle flip, but I don't know why.

If you are asking if the shackle should be in tension, or compression, I usually see them set up in tension if you do a shackle flip, but I don't know why.

The problem with putting the shackle in compression (at the top) is it will try to invert itself. Just like a spring shackle.
With the shackle in tension at an optimal angle it will not allow the pinion to rotate unless the shackle rips off the crossmember.

would the shackle work on the top??

Gabe is right, however I have seen it work in compression.... if you have to do it just make the shackle long so it is less likely to invert on you.

Here is mine. It's been working good for a couple of years.

http://www.m4x4a.org/gallery2/d/28312-2/DCP00762.jpg

http://www.m4x4a.org/gallery2/d/28318-2/DCP00767.jpg

http://www.m4x4a.org/gallery2/d/28336-2/DCP00770.jpg

Ill be building one before the K5 sees dirt again. I have broken a DS yoke, but if I spin a tube on the eaton I would be really Focked :rolleyes::flipoff2:

Thats pretty much the design I have been thinking. Has anyone made one like the one below?

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/mtnbikn/antiwrapidea.jpg

using a pivot bearing like this one from rocklogic4x4.com

http://www.rocklogic4x4.com/uploads/products/403_image1.jpg

I was thinking it would allow for unlimited movement as far as flexing goes while keeping the pinion angle consistant.

what are your thoughts, opinions, bacon recipies...:homer:
Me Like! You mind if I copy you..I also am in need of installing an anti-wrap bar. My flex is not as extream as most but I like the spindle idea...although the more moving parts more points of failure...just thinking outloud...prolly would hold up fine.
Take pics of what you make!
Burt

thanks for the info!!how much seperation do you use,would 1.5".120 dom with 3/4x3/4 rod ends be strong enough for 454 doubler 4.56 39.5 and a heavy foot

I just ordered the bearing pivot from rocklogic, I will update this thread when I get ready to build it.
gabe

thanks for the info!!how much seperation do you use,would 1.5".120 dom with 3/4x3/4 rod ends be strong enough for 454 doubler 4.56 39.5 and a heavy foot


I assume you are talking to me....


As I recall I think I used 8" of seperation. I would go with as much as you can without making it hang to low or get in the way of anything up high.

I used 1.75" x .120 DOM with a half of 1/4" thick good pipe welded on the bottom. I used 3/4x5/8 rod ends (40k lbs rated).

I think yours would be strong enough. I wanted mine to be able to contact rocks and not dent/bend so I over built it. I have had many 3-4 foot rear full throttle bounces while climbing and it has held up fine.

Here is a great thread about the subject. On the third page Gordon shows how to determine your IC and antisquat...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=351224&page=3

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/mtnbikn/antiwrapidea.jpg




So what do you think is the advantage of this style over using a rod end? My 30$ 3/4 x 5/8 rod ends are rated for 40k lbs.... it seams that would be overly complicated and expensive.

What's the general "been there, done that" consensus on the crossmember? I have a bunch of 1.5 x 1.5 x .120 square tube left over from various other projects. Is the .120 wall sq. tube up to the task? I can always go pick up some heavier wall tube if need be.

So what do you think is the advantage of this style over using a rod end? My 30$ 3/4 x 5/8 rod ends are rated for 40k lbs.... it seams that would be overly complicated and expensive.

Dollar wise I think it turns out the same once you factor in misalignment spacers, and threaded insert for the tubing. Also I think that I will have less binding with this style vs rod end. I think longevity will be better as well. Here is what my flex looks like ( actually an old pic, Its even more now)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/mtnbikn/flexinatcrawfords.jpg

started building a cross member after work today.figured out the frame is different from one side to the other.put a slight delay in my progress

REAR
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL81/1991351/8209696/334391600.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL81/1991351/8209696/334391601.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL81/1991351/8209696/334391603.jpg




FRONT
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL81/1991351/8209696/269449023.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL81/1991351/8209696/269449017.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL81/1991351/8209696/269449006.jpg

you guys still runing 52" rears how many leafs did you keep.i have 5 plus the overload sits ass high and flexes like a stone.i'v destroyed many rear springs in the past, i'm leary of taking too many out but assume with a antirap bar it won't warp/bend them anymore?

Im trying to find my latest pics... the antiwrap bar worked great except for one thing... I ran out of gas while welding 3/8 plate to the axle and lets just say it didnt hold up to my punishment. Flex was not inhibited at all and I noticed a big difference on climbs. I'll take some more pics of the setup when I get a chance. I smoked a tranny and the engine is knocking after this last trip... but I think I put on a pretty good show for the spectators.

This was before I smoked the tranny ( all I have left is 1st and reverse) , but right before I cut a stainless brake line in half... gotta love vise grips.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/mtnbikn/RiverRock%20Oct%2008/215.jpg

Cool! Look forward to seeing your pics of the new setup! :smokin:

reading this thread has sold me on the idea of anti-wrap. i am gonna start designing one and had one question. in this picture the gusset is welded to the frame. when making one for myself, should i make the vertical sides of the gusset triangles to help "fish-mouth" it? im still fairly new to the idea of fish mouthing, and ive been following the other thread about it, and have to wonder if that would make your design even beefer?
im not trying to be a smart ass, just want to design the best i can

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL81/1991351/8209696/334391603.jpg

you guys still runing 52" rears how many leafs did you keep.i have 5 plus the overload sits ass high and flexes like a stone.i'v destroyed many rear springs in the past, i'm leary of taking too many out but assume with a antirap bar it won't warp/bend them anymore?


I'm running 4 springs with no overload and it flexes like a champ... I was running 6 to try and prevent axle wrap and it was a little stiff.
gabe

thanks for posting it gave me the boost i needed to get off my ass and build a aw bar.i ended up running 4 leafs worked much better than my last set up.my only problem was i used my splater welder and it wasn't up to the task of holding the bar to the rear housing.i since bought a lincoln 255c the bar held up but not my D60.

Ill be building one before the K5 sees dirt again. I have broken a DS yoke, but if I spin a tube on the eaton I would be really Focked :rolleyes::flipoff2:

Thats pretty much the design I have been thinking. Has anyone made one like the one below?

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y60/mtnbikn/antiwrapidea.jpg

using a pivot bearing like this one from rocklogic4x4.com

http://www.rocklogic4x4.com/uploads/products/403_image1.jpg

I was thinking it would allow for unlimited movement as far as flexing goes while keeping the pinion angle consistant.

what are your thoughts, opinions, bacon recipies...:homer:

Gabe, Do you have an Eaton? If so how do you spin a tube? Your pic looks like and Eaton but I thought the whole housing is a single stamped and welded unit like a Ford 9 inch. Not trying to be sarcastic, just a question.

You can't. I didn't know he had an Eaton when I stated that. He can however pull the studs out of the 3rd just like a Toyota if axle wrap is bad enough.

Couple of thoughts when designing the bar.
The angle of the shackle at the front attachment point should be vertical, set at 90* to the upper bar; the upper bar should be horizontal with the ground.
Second, the angle of the upper bar will change with static changes in pinion angle. Meaning, if you design you ladder bar with 1* pinion down angle, then latter find that the pinion angle is off (VIBRATION!), it will be tough to adjust your pinion angle without modifying your track bar.
My approach was to add adjustability into my bar. Doing so paid off; Low and behold, my 1.5* pinion down angle was way off because the track bar stopped the pinion from raising under acceleration. I went from no vibration, to terrible vibration.
Since I could adjust my new track bar, I had no problem making it correctly fit after re-adjusting my pinion angle.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9391/trackbar3xg2.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=trackbar3xg2.jpg) http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7849/img0916ga6.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0916ga6.jpg) http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/2710/trackbar2cy4.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=trackbar2cy4.jpg) http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8053/trackbar1wb2.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=trackbar1wb2.jpg)

this is one i found on ck5 and it is a design that i'm going to try and follow for the most part. it seems clean and simple:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/82dieselburb/Picture206.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/82dieselburb/Picture205.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/82dieselburb/Picture210.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/82dieselburb/Picture203.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/82dieselburb/Picture205.jpg


You better hope that inner tube is strong and very thick because I have seen a lot of slip style DOM bars bend.

the info i found stated to run your bar the same angle as your drive shaft and to put the shackle at the u-joint.that's how i did mine and it works good no vibrations

You better hope that inner tube is strong and very thick because I have seen a lot of slip style DOM bars bend.

hmm, didnt think of that, thanks for the heads up. I'll keep that in mind when i eventually get to building it.

this worked real well with 63's in the rear. I would have liked it to be a bit longer but it served it purpose.

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc160/smashmetal/Blazer%20Work%20in%20progress/7457.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc160/smashmetal/Blazer%20Work%20in%20progress/40d3.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc160/smashmetal/Blazer%20Work%20in%20progress/2df8.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc160/smashmetal/Blazer%20Work%20in%20progress/2919.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc160/smashmetal/Blazer%20Work%20in%20progress/7d6c.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc160/smashmetal/Blazer%20Work%20in%20progress/14be.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc160/smashmetal/Blazer%20Work%20in%20progress/3b54.jpg

this is one i found on ck5 and it is a design that i'm going to try and follow for the most part. it seems clean and simple:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/82dieselburb/Picture206.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/82dieselburb/Picture205.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/82dieselburb/Picture210.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/82dieselburb/Picture203.jpg



I like the design because it is up and out of the way and looks awesome. Up until now I was going to do something like ORD's setup and like the homemade picture stated above. But isn't there going to be increased forces because both tubes are above the axle centerline in stead of one above and below? And don't you want to truss between the two tubes? Yes I am green to the whole traction bar thing but I need one to stand up to transbrake launches but be as high as possible so I don't drag more than I have to throught he mud.

later
jenks

i gotta find a photo of my crap...

i use a line lock, and a set of 39.5 boggers for traction. no axle wrap. its mounted above the centerline of the rear axle, too. just off to the side. not as purdy as any of this stuff, either.

cant find em on the puter.. ill have to go take more...

aha! found one!
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/9397/buildthread014wj1.jpg

i used what I had available to build mine. Dodge 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton panhard bar links with some sleeved tubing, using the stock rubber mounts, a bit of 3/8 strap, and an old spring shackle welded to a crossmember...

pic of my old set up. it did the job. I could feel it trying to lift the truck a little when under load.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d186/poorboy3/jasons%20truck/100_2993.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d186/poorboy3/jasons%20truck/100_2994.jpg

I cant find the pic of the shackle but it was beside the tcase yoke.

You better hope that inner tube is strong and very thick because I have seen a lot of slip style DOM bars bend.

I know the guy that has the patent on the "slipjoint" design of antiwrap bars and he tells me its all in the wall thickness but more importantly; the angle. Waiting eagerly on the question of who owns the patent

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f27/M-1028/P1010142.jpg

where can i get the joints that are used in this pic?

where can i get the joints that are used in this pic?

search for the word "heim joint"

I know the guy that has the patent on the "slipjoint" design of antiwrap bars and he tells me its all in the wall thickness but more importantly; the angle. Waiting eagerly on the question of who owns the patent


I beleave it... I would also think getting the smaller tube as far away from the diff as possible would be important. I would have made the upper tube off of the diff the larger one and the smaller tube and slip as close to the frame pivot point as possible.

I'm considering using an old revolver shackle. The pivot is built into it.

Good idea.

search for the word "heim joint"

thanks. i see em on jegs but they dont come with the threaded bung so im gunna do a little more searching. any suggestions would be appreciated

I pulled this from my build thread, thought it might add to this post.

Mocking up the traction bar. I bought the axle end kit from Dan at Ruff Stuff. I made the bar from 1.75" x .25" wall square tube.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=364405&d=1207832593

I made the crossmember from 2.5" x .25" square tube. Plates are 1/4" and bolted with four 9/16" Gr. 8 bolts on each side.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=364406&d=1207832593

I used a bushing at the bottom and a Johnny Joint up top.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=364407&d=1207832736

Then I unbolted everything, removed the bushings and finished welding on the bench. Notice I added a couple of vertical supports.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=364408&d=1207833154

After I got the traction bar in, I decided that it would be a good idea to run my rear brake lines down it, instead of running a long flexible line at each tire.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=364409&d=1207833559

I ran two separate lines because I will be using a line lock for each rear tire. Flexible line at the shackle.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=364410&d=1207833559

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=397637&d=1224424505

cool commando!

I like the short distance on your shackle for the traction bar, but does it limit axle movement? Im betting not, but i figured i would ask anyway.

subscribed for future reference :smokin:

subscribed for future reference :smokin:

same

Couple of thoughts when designing the bar.
The angle of the shackle at the front attachment point should be vertical, set at 90* to the upper bar; the upper bar should be horizontal with the ground.


So something like his design would work better than a straight bar with a higher axle bracket?


http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc160/smashmetal/Blazer%20Work%20in%20progress/3b54.jpg

I forget who but someone has already mentioned that the shackle should be at the u-joint, why? is a there a typical standard for length?

I HAVE SEARCHED, Some:shaking: I am preparing to build one and I want it right. My first thoughts were something simple like Grumpy's, I helped my buddy out on his Jeep all we used was the third link from a 3-pnt tractor mount and a piece of tubing for the lower bar and it works just fine, with no real thought to assembly.?

i tried to keep mine a tad longer than the front half of the spring. while this does have a different arc of motion than the leaf spring, the bar is reasonably stout and places a load on the crossmember above it, planting the rear tires well. I have no problems flexing, either. I set it up to have an instant center at the crossmember. I just dont have enough weight behind the crossmember to make a great effect until i get on a hill.

Would a fellow N.W. mud guy be willing to share some insights on side by side muddin' pits????
Sorrry for the hijack:eek:

has anyone tried the cable method ?? ive heard about it but never seen it done ??

apparently you run a cable from your spring eye to your spring plate and it controls wrap ??

has anyone tried the cable method ?? ive heard about it but never seen it done ??


It doesn't do much...

So something like his design would work better than a straight bar with a higher axle bracket?


A ladder bar/shackle setup is the best for what we do...

There is a lot of misconception about building anti wrap bars. The angle of the bar has very little to do with the IC. It is also preferable to have the shackle in tension; witch tends to center the shackle under power; where a shackle in compression tends to want to force the shackle to invert and bind.

Here is a pic posted by Gordon from this thread that shows exactly how to setup a traction bar to act like you want it to.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=351224&page=3

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=209968&stc=1&d=1129140526

Another good pic about the relation of IC.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1781197

EDIT: Also us large tire/high hp/heavy weight guys should shoot for 8+ inches of seperation at the diff to keep bushings, hem's and brackets in one piece.

You should also think about welding your tubes to your center or even build a truss. when you capture one portion of your axle and let the other float free you stand a much higher chance or spinning a tube. Building lots of antisquat into your system and placing it near the center will also bend axle housings

Great stuff in here! Not a lot of discussion on exact materials used. I'm leaning towards using DIY4x4's anti-wrap brackets at the axle and using a shackle off a crossmember. Would building with 1.50x.25" wall DOM tubing and 3/4" Heims be overkill? Don't wanna spend more than I have to, but want things to be reliable.

6k pound truck, Vortec 350, 4.88 14FF, 38" tires.

Would building with 1.50x.25" wall DOM tubing and 3/4" Heims be overkill?

You only need to use that thick of material on the lowest tube of the traction bar to keep it from denting/bending when you hit rocks. I use 3/4" shank 40k lb heims on my stuff.

Geometry is very important to strength. You want to bring both of your main tubes all the way to out to your shackle if at all possible. It is common to see the bars bend right past the welded joint if this is no done.

Heim joints are not ment to have side loads on them. Try to keep your heim on the shackle like this to keep from bending the shank.

http://www.m4x4a.org/gallery2/d/28336-2/DCP00770.jpg

Looking at another option to eliminate wrap, but not reduce flex.

http://www.dandcextreme.com/old/buildup/image/day6kickercl.jpg

Here is the write up on the approach:

http://www.dandcextreme.com/old/buildup/pro1/day6.html

Anyone have any experience with this type of set-up? Looks cool, but am I throwing money at crap voodoo?

nobody?

Ghetto, half-assed and ineffective.

Ghetto, half-assed and ineffective.

x2, will not work under constant load and is pretty cheese ball.

Looking at another option to eliminate wrap, but not reduce flex.

Looks cool, but am I throwing money at crap voodoo?

a single traction bar with the appropriate mounting will not limit articulation and will eliminate wrap. dont bother using the funky shock setup, it is a waste of money. A single antiwrap bar is ALL you need. i have cut 39.5 boggers in the rear with a single antiwrap bar with 5.13 gears and a couple horsepower... no wrap, plenty of articulation.

i was going to do some badass shocks like that .... but i built this instead

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc184/shortsub/tractionbarbuild019.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc184/shortsub/tractionbarbuild013.jpg

.500 dom , 1/8" plated dimpled and sleeved with 1.75 dom

maybe when this doesnt work ill consider the shockers

cool commando!

I like the short distance on your shackle for the traction bar, but does it limit axle movement? Im betting not, but i figured i would ask anyway.

Thanks. It doesn't seem to limit flex at all. If you look at it when it's flexed out, it's hard to tell if it really even moved. I think that most of the movement takes place in the Johnny Joint.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=412525&d=1231079102

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/rock_slinger/tracbar004.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/rock_slinger/tracbar005-1.jpg
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/rock_slinger/tracbar002.jpg
Here is a few I put on my first gen blazer.

the angle of the arm looks like it will limit upward travel of the rear axle by putting the springs in a bind.

does the suspension compress at all with a load?

anyone see the set up they did on extreme 4x4 this weekend? any thoughts? looks like a fairly simple set up and no need to make a crossmember

The one Ian did looked a bit ridiculous.

A) the lower mount was hanging way below the tube so it's going to play plow or hang up on stuff.

B) The light wall tube he used will dent if landed on anything solid (ask me how I know:( ).

C) The intersection points of the tubes create a nice bending moment on the last leg of the bar which is also then lacking vertical seperation to combat the torque it will see. I forsee it bending at that point especially considering the motor in that thing.

I did a pretty poor job of making my first anti-wrap. In fact it had 2 of the 3 same problems. The second one still had 1 of the same problems (light wall lower tube) but if I had searched long enough I could have built one the first time without any of the issues. Seems like being I know Ian is on here, maybe he should have done the same.

ok i guess i should have been a bit more specific, what do you all think of his upper mount on the frame how he did, using the leaf spring bushing through the frame

The one Ian did looked a bit ridiculous.

A) the lower mount was hanging way below the tube so it's going to play plow or hang up on stuff.

B) The light wall tube he used will dent if landed on anything solid (ask me how I know:( ).

C) The intersection points of the tubes create a nice bending moment on the last leg of the bar which is also then lacking vertical seperation to combat the torque it will see. I forsee it bending at that point especially considering the motor in that thing.

I did a pretty poor job of making my first anti-wrap. In fact it had 2 of the 3 same problems. The second one still had 1 of the same problems (light wall lower tube) but if I had searched long enough I could have built one the first time without any of the issues. Seems like being I know Ian is on here, maybe he should have done the same.

you do realize that ian built that one for a mud racing truck not a rock crawler

you do realize that ian built that one for a mud racing truck not a rock crawler

No, I must have totally missed that part:flipoff2:

Doesn't make a difference IMO. You still need all the ground clearance you can get in the mud, you're still going to want that tube to bow as little as possible so as much power as you can muster makes it to the ground and a stout lower arm is just going to help you accomplish the later as well as give you more dent resistance.

I finally built one
bottom
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSC00187.jpg
top
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSC00188.jpg
there is no shackle
it has 1 1/2 sched 40 pipe inside 2" sched 80 seamless. bushings from diy4x4 on all 3 ends. About $30 for the whole thing.
9/16 bolts all around too...

just make sure you weld your tube's to the housing. i didn't and the end result is funny now but not when it happend. made for a fun time trying to come off the trail with it free spining back and forth in the housing.

i broke this housing with a stock 4.0 jeep motor, a HP robbing 700r tranny, stock 4.10's and 39" irok's.

jason.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=578424&highlight=14+bolt+spun+axle+tube

I finally built one
bottom
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSC00187.jpg
top
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSC00188.jpg
there is no shackle
it has 1 1/2 sched 40 pipe inside 2" sched 80 seamless. bushings from diy4x4 on all 3 ends. About $30 for the whole thing.
9/16 bolts all around too...
I ended up making one for the front also it works great!
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSCF1074.jpg
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee307/kitimatdude/DSCF1071.jpg
Not the best pictures but oh well...
I had marks on my front u-joint yokes from the axle wrap, after I added this it was gone. My front springs are still a little too soft.

Great info in here Thanks

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