Can a Sammi rear axle run flipped as in Hi Pinion style and not starve from oil ?

well, you COULD get around the oil problem, if you don't mind going backwards in first gear.......

Well if you are looking at the axle from the rear, flip it so that the diff is now on the drivers side it would still go forward right... and now the pinion is on top right ?

This is NOT for a Sammi but a small project vehicle using a Sammi axle.

How can I fix the oiling prob with out over filling ?

It would go backwards

It would go backwards

Then put it in the front :flipoff2:

Does the front drive shaft rotate the same direction as the rear? or does it counter rotate? If it counter rotates and you flip the axels and then swap them front to back, you would have correct wheel rotation, and the Diff would be in the correct alignment with the T-case. Just flipping them would not only get them in the wrong rotation, but it will put the diff on the driver side and the drive angles would be all f-ed up. ( Assuming you have a short wheel base like the samurai and the T-case is on the passenger side. )

If you just want the drive shaft to hit it at a lower angle, why don't you just put new spring perches on? or even easier, bolt a shim in the existing perch.

Then you could that bitch like a forklift :grinpimp:

Well if you are looking at the axle from the rear, flip it so that the diff is now on the drivers side it would still go forward right... and now the pinion is on top right ?

This is NOT for a Sammi but a small project vehicle using a Sammi axle.

How can I fix the oiling prob with out over filling ?

WOW!:shaking:

you have to really work through the rotations in your head to understand it, or you'd need a computer simulation if you don't have the imagination.
now a chevy front axle can be turned around to be in the rear(not flipped) but then you gotta put the diff on the other side so the t-case can get to it.
that's what I got on mine. it works cuz the front and rear r&p sets are identical. only the front diff does rotate the other way so it gets driven forward on the 'back' of the teeth. I think.
see, looking at the rear from under the truck, say the pinion rotates clockwise. now turn your head to the front diff and you'll see the pinion rotate counterclockwise. the output shaft of your t-case only rotates in one direction on both front and rear(duh) so the front and rear pinions have to rotate in different directions as you look from under the middle of the truck.
simple, right?!:smokin::laughing:

OK I get it I was thinking of the shaft rotation not the wheel rotation.

Now will I have oiling probs ?

you still havn't overcome your wheel rotation problem.


cajunsuzukispider said the output shafts do not counter rotate, so swapping the front and rear will do nothing but relocate your diff to the driver side. (The rear in the front will drive in the same direction the front drove when it was up front) If you reverse the wheel rotation by flipping them over, the wheel rotation will still be reversed if you swap flipped axels front to rear.

maybe he's running a rear engine? or a honda motor and running the trans and tcase in reverse? (this I would like to see! :D)

Do some searching for mog 9's or what ever they are called. guys flip ford 9"s over and use them with mog portals. so t hey have figured out the oiling problem.

have fun filling / draining your diff.

drain plug @ bottom goes to top, fill plug turns to drain plug, no more ez drain, hello suction device .

leave the axle put, flip the carrier housing, and install a honda v-tec... your trans would run backwards, but your wheels will roll forward... problem comes with the tooth engagement on the ring gear. the ring gear is cut flatter on the load side. running backwards would put the driving force on the coasting side of the teeth, which would cause problems. oil to the pinion bearings is another issue, but not as big an issue as running the gears in reverse. that's why "reverse cut" gears are made for high-pinion applications.

Thanks guys.
Can I simply flip the axle over to the drivers side and then take out and rotate the 3rd member to get the right rotation... it would help if I had an axle here in the shop to look over and know whats what...

Guys, go easy here.

Against stupidity, even the Gods labor in vain.

YES.

may the gods reward me with good karma.

yeah, flip the axle, then flip the diff, then cut both axle ends off in just the right place and also a piece of the tube, then reweld it all so the diff is back on pass. side.
then flip out!!

no, I got no rear engine. I just got a front chevy axle turned around so it's a rear steering. I did all the cutting and rewelding to position the diff on the passenger side, but it's still low pinion.
the really only good way to get what you want is to pony up the 5,000 bucks and get a custom high pinion ford 9" made. but what sammy owner can do that?
I'd post tons of pics, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to get pics on here. I can't drag and drop, tried that. and someone gave me complicated instructions for signing up to some website that'll do it, but then when I did that, it was still a complicated affair. I don't know, I'll just stick to building my zuk......
jd

amen, yankee tim, amen.

Damn guys, I'm not as knowledgeable in 4X4 as you, I dont know alot of these things, THIS is why I joined here so when I come up on probs I'm not sure about I can ask the ones who do know.

I need the diff to be on the DRIVERS side. Would it be so hard to just help me to get that to work out right and not just roll your eyes at the stupid newbie asking stupid questions.

I build Motorcycle Trikes, the Sammy axle is the right sized for this and has 4 spider gears and a mostly closed diff thats easy to weld shut to hold grease when building a chain drive live axle....

Now I am building a Trike from a Kawasaki Mean Streak thats shaft drive and on the left side of the bike, I need a small light axle "Sammi" but with the diff more on the left "drivers side"..........

It would be perfect if I could simply flip the axle so its on the left side but as you point out it will go reverse.

"cajunsuzukispider" yeah, flip the axle, then flip the diff, then cut both axle ends off in just the right place and also a piece of the tube, then reweld it all so the diff is back on pass. side.
then flip out!!

Dude BITE ME ! If you would just help me I woulnt be asking stupid questions.

Can the 3rd member be rotated 180* so when I flip the axle I can still have it go forward ?

Mike I "think" the bolt spacing is a little bit different, so it only goes in one way. One thing you could do is set up a jig of some sort to keep things straight, and swap the tubes side to side. Then you'd be able to use the stock shafts.

Mike I "think" the bolt spacing is a little bit different, so it only goes in one way. One thing you could do is set up a jig of some sort to keep things straight, and swap the tubes side to side. Then you'd be able to use the stock shafts.

If the 3rd member cant be rotated then thats what I'll have to do then, Thanks for the info, I have to ask these things when I dont have one in front of me or dealt with them enough to know..

dude, it was a joke. I don't remember you saying you needed it on the driver's side. anyhoo, so use a front axle in the back, and weld a bracket on the tube, make a bracket to weld or bolt to the tie rod, and bolt the 2 together so it doesn't steer anymore. problem solved....

It would be perfect if I could simply flip the axle so its on the left side but as you point out it will go reverse.

Can the 3rd member be rotated 180* so when I flip the axle I can still have it go forward ?



The rotating part is where everyone is confused. if you take the pig out, flip the tube over side to side, and stick the pig back in in its STOCK orentiation (meaning low pinion), then yes, it will still go forward, the diff will be driver's (left) side, and as a bonus, the spring perches will now in a Spring Over config. At least I think. The issue will be if the axle shafts are centered top to bottom of the banjo (I think they are).

But plain and simple, you can not make the Sammy pig into a hi-pinion. Period.

yeah, I think your main problem was comunicating what you wanted to put it in. Instead you came up with an impossible solution to your problem and asked us how to make your solution work. If you just want the pumpkin on the driver side swap the front axel to the back. No flipping necessary.

If you just want the pumpkin on the driver side swap the front axel to the back. No flipping necessary.

:shaking:

*smacks forehead with palm of hand*

Think there might be an issue of rear-steer on a Trike?

simple solution.....
step 1 flip the axle over to make it driver side
step 2 flip the 3rd member over to make it right side up...the bolts will line up, but you will notice the ring gear wont clear because there is a flatened spot where the oil fill plug is
step 3 cut out the flatened spot and make sure the ring will clear
step 4 replace hole with more rounded piece....if you have a spare housing you can cut this piece out of it...or you can grab a tourch and heat some steel and bend it into place.
step 5 breather vent needs to be cut off and placed back on top.... you will have to drill a hole next to the old oil drain plug, which is now the fill plug
step 6 get a tap and die set and thread a hole where the breather vent was.....make this hole threaded to fit the old oil fill plug. this is now the drain plug....if you dont have a tap and die you could also cut a nice sized hole here, so long as it is no biger than the piece of housing you cut off on step 3,and weld this entire piece in

sounds more difficult than it actually is. all the welding is non structual for the most part... just have to make sure it doesn't leak

as for how much oil to put in it.... I just got done rebuilding my axle and have to put oil in it. ill measure and let you know this weekend

So the 3rd member can be rotated I just need to trim the housing like you said. Yes the drain plug and vent is no prob I just needed a way to swap sides without cutting the axle up.

Thank you.

yeah, I'd still recommend using a front axle and making it non-steer, cuz then you have no extra work to do at all. hmmm, instead of making a couple of brackets to bolts together to hold the wheels straight, you could perhaps just weld the knuckles to the 'ball' side of the joint.
maybe an alignment shop could even hold the wheels perfectly straight and do it for you?
oh, also, a front axle would give you disc brakes in the back, and locking hubs!!

:shaking:

*smacks forehead with palm of hand*

Think there might be an issue of rear-steer on a Trike?

you just mount the pitman arm to the frame so it doesn't turn and you don't have steering in the rear anymore. Easily reversible if you ever do want rear steering. A trike with a sammi axle is going to turn like a pig, you might want rear steering assist

A trike with a sammi axle is going to turn like a pig, you might want rear steering assist

Most people use Ford 8.8's and 9's and are alot heavy'r than a Sammy axle, the chain drive Sammy axle I built did just fine..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/orange-appeal/T-REX%20Build/nuthinspecial011.jpg

ok if you flip the rear axle to do what you want. use a plasma cuter to cut the diff pan. would be the bolt on pan on d44 or 10 bolt. the toy, sami and ford 9" are all the same here, you will have to rotate this to fit with the ring gear. this will rotate your fill plug. you can then fill the old drain plug, use a toy replacement and wala now you got a left side sami axle with the plugs in the right places. the only thing left is the breather. plug the old one and move it to the top where it should be. i do like the front axle idea, for the disk already being there. and the steering is easy to lock up. but now you got the arms and a tierod to deal with. not so much fun if you ask me. you can get disk kits fort he rear anyway. so that sounds like your best bet. if the studs don't line up you can pull them fill hole drill new ones and reinstall studs. but i think the pattern is even spaced so it should drop right back in. if you can't get this figured out check out sky-manufacturing. he builds a toy axle for the sami offset rear. so i bet he could help you out here. the toy is about the same but a bit stronger. a little heavier but thats about it.

If you do use a front axle, you can use "tierods" that attach from the steering arm to the axle tube. It will stop the knuckles from moving, and you can get a little bit of toe in if you want.

Most people use Ford 8.8's and 9's and are alot heavy'r than a Sammy axle, the chain drive Sammy axle I built did just fine..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v610/orange-appeal/T-REX%20Build/nuthinspecial011.jpg

It's not the weight, its the length. If That pic you posted is a samurai axel, it was chopped. Even with a shorter axe., the turn radius is between 25 and 30 feet. (I watched the video on your site)

The samurai is 5 foot wide, wheel to wheel. From what it sounds like you plan on keeping the stock lenght of the axel. With a stance that wide the steering radius will be really huge.

wow, that's a huge turning radius. I read that you're gonna use a chain drive, does that mean that you're also making it a locked 'live' axle? that would exlpain the turning radius. is there any way that you can do your project with an open diff? then you'd have that small radius that you should have. we all know that we can have a friend hold one tire still on a removed axle, and the other guy can turn the axle around him in a circle. then you're turning radius would be determined by the distance between the front wheel and the rear axle and how sharply you can turn it.
I mean, if you're front wheel could turn totally sideways, theoretically your radius could be just about the width of the trike.

also, the way I understand it, you've basically built a big 3-wheeler(remember those?) those and 4 wheelers don't handle real good on the street cuz of their live axle, that's why some places offer aftermarket open diffs if the 4-wheeler is to be used on a hard surface. If you're not too heavy, could you use that type of diff? or do you have too much power for those little things?