I'm planning to build 383 stoker and have some questions wanted to see if anyone can help. first off its going in a 74 k10 pickup and I'm looking to get around 380hp/ 400foot lbs torque. I'm on a small budget and I'm not going to be racing so I dont know if I need go with forged parts? I have found this stroker kit from powerhouse out of bakersfield,ca for $469 for the rotating assembly its using reconditioned 5.7 rods and crank. is this ok for the hp I want? I'm planning on running flat top pistons,edlebrock performer aluminum heads(64cc) w/ 1.6 roller tips, edlebrock performer intake, performer 600cfm carb, cam is comp xe274 and comp double roller chain. what are the advantages and disadvantages to 5.7 and 6.0 rod lengths?This is my first build and any advice would help. heres a link to the stroker kit:

http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=81

hey man, sounds like right around that HP range is where you'll be at with that kit. maybe even a lil more if u do some mild port work on the heads. make sure u get ur block clearenced for the rods. :smokin: keep us posted. ive got a 357 sbc in my s10, its got about 365 horse. with some mild work.

It'll be fine (the kit).

I took a look at the engine cast # on my exitsing engine it reads 3970010. how Do I find out if its the 2 or 4 bolt? would it still be a good block to use, even if it is a 2 bolt?

Ahh strokers.. a wonderfull thing..

I took a look at the engine cast # on my exitsing engine it reads 3970010. how Do I find out if its the 2 or 4 bolt? would it still be a good block to use, even if it is a 2 bolt?

to find out, pull the pan and count.

yes, it will be a good block, even if it is a 2 bolt. you dont need 4 bolt mains.

if youre worried, get a freakin stud kit for the main caps, and run it that way.

I got my kit from them. Decent parts at a good price. Don't bother with forged unless you're going to spray. The big deal with 6" rods is they increase the dwell time at TDC and BDC supposedly increasing cylinder fill and exhaust. The dwell time difference is a ridiculously small amount so unless you're trying to win in NASCAR don't worry about em. The 5.7's are good enough and more affordable. With 64cc heads you might want the dished pistons to keep the compression ratio down. It's best to run some numbers to ballpark where you want to be and discuss it with the cam manufacturer. When you order be sure to request that they balance internally. ie: tell them you don't want weight added tot he flywheel or balancer so if you ever have to replace one you can use off the shelf parts. Other than that put a quadrajet on it :flipoff2: :D

When you order be sure to request that they balance internally. ie: tell them you don't want weight added tot he flywheel or balancer so if you ever have to replace one you can use off the shelf parts.

um... not trying to be too picky here, but i wanted to help clarify.

you meant balance without those parts (the flywheel/flexplate and harmonic dampner).

internally balanced means that the flywheel/flexplate- harmonic dampner is of the straight early 262/265/267/283/302/307/327/350 design, with no balance weights on it.

externally balanced engines have a reduction in weight or an addition in weight to those items. 400 sb flywheels/flexplates and harmonic balancers are weighted. it would be difficult to balance the assembly without knowing the specific weight on the balancer and flywheel/ flexplate and adding that info to the mix.

the balance shop(or machine shop) will balance to a bobweight too. generally, that means the bobweights on the crank weigh the same as the corresponding rotating mass.

I think they have to be attached during balancing. You just don't want them modified so you can replace them with off the shelf parts if it's every necessary.. That's what my machinist told me..

I think they have to be attached during balancing. You just don't want them modified so you can replace them with off the shelf parts if it's every necessary.. That's what my machinist told me..

well the reason I was so concerned about the 2 bolt, 4 bolt thing is because I see that most people using them in performance builds. I am going with 5.7 rods. from what I have read in tech articles I should get between 390-420hp and around 450 ft lb torque if I upgrade to a 750 cfm carb

Post up if you're happy with their quality. I'm looking at these (been rather hard to find aftermarket in an inexpensive flavor for a low rpm application >4000rpms) for a 400SBC TQ build...http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2256

Post up if you're happy with their quality. I'm looking at these (been rather hard to find aftermarket in an inexpensive flavor for a low rpm application >4000rpms) for a 400SBC TQ build...http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2256


check out this out: 421 hp at 5,400 and 448 lb-ft at 4,300. this is using the kit. theres an article from hotrod.com, those are the dyno results

Nice.....thanks.

Just as I'm getting so close to this build plans are changing... now I'm going with eagle crank and rods w/ speed pro pistons. heads are now going to be AFR 195 street heads(64CC), hyro. roller cam (comp288hr), and I'm sticking with the edelbrock airgap intake, carb is holly 3310.the kit I'm getting will be about 10.6:1 with the 64cc heads. Now I just found these dyno results on AFR website and they are running a 9.5:1 compression ratio and are getting 500hp and little over 500 on th TQ. So how much hp and TQ should I expect to gain with the higher compression ratio?(http://www.airflowresearch.com/chevy_dyno.php).

I know it's alot of fun building your own engine, but their is alot of good deals on pre built motors. 2500 dollars will get you a 400-450 hp motor.

Just as I'm getting so close to this build plans are changing... now I'm going with eagle crank and rods w/ speed pro pistons. heads are now going to be AFR 195 street heads(64CC), hyro. roller cam (comp288hr), and I'm sticking with the edelbrock airgap intake, carb is holly 3310.the kit I'm getting will be about 10.6:1 with the 64cc heads.

I have this engine with a comp cam (12-365-4) and edelbrock pro flow efi in my k10. It replaced a zz4 w/ the 'hot cam'. Torque curve is earlier and flatter and the truck is faster.

I will be spending about $2500-$3000 . What I'm going to do is build my bottom and and throw on a set of 75cc heads that I already have(2.02 in., 1.6 ex). then swap out the heads when I come up with the cash for the heads. The reason I like this set up is of the high torque at lower rpms. The motor is going into a 73 blazer 4x4 that going to be running 35's with 4:11 gears.