Here an interior LINE-X job:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v413/123Gone/LandRover2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v413/123Gone/LandRover1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v413/123Gone/LandRover4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v413/123Gone/LandRover3.jpg

I once charged a client more to chip through the line-X than I did for the repair.

It looks good, but it can be a bitch to work around.

How much weight did that add? I've never seen the whole roof done too.

what'd you charge for that? Looks good

-ben

LINE-X weighs .7 pounds per square foot at 1/8" thickness which is about the thickness you're looking at except for the bed area which is about 3/16" thick.

Off the top of my head, I don't remember what we charged.

It may look good to some, but I don't like it.

You need to remove the floor panels and bolts to the seat box when you do this. And why coat the galvanized trim capping pieces. Or any of the galvanized trim pieces for that matter. Why didn't you spray the inside of the door and actually do some good with your work.

Looks like a cheap paint job where they don't mask half the items they should and just put the paint to it.

I think you just took away part of the value of that truck.

Whats something like that cost to have done? Id like to have the bottom of my bronco done.

It may look good to some, but I don't like it.

You need to remove the floor panels and bolts to the seat box when you do this. And why coat the galvanized trim capping pieces. Or any of the galvanized trim pieces for that matter. Why didn't you spray the inside of the door and actually do some good with your work.

Looks like a cheap paint job where they don't mask half the items they should and just put the paint to it.

I think you just took away part of the value of that truck.

i have to agree with the whole spraying over everything mantra...it looks unprofessional. we had a local guy who used to do Line-x. in my opinion it is way too rough. much rougher than Rhinoliner or some of the do it yourself kits. i just did a buddies rocker panels two weeks ago with Herculiner (wouldn't have been my choice). i sprayed it with a 20.00 undercoating gun and it came out looking much better than i expected. on par with professional jobs. the sad part is the Herculiner isn't UV stabilized and fades like crazy. i have some Duraback in a tan color i'm spraying in my disco when i get the sheet metal work finished. the Duraback is pricier but can be had in UV or non UV stabilized mixes. getting everything out of the way and covering screw holes etc. is the hardest part.

Ive seen LineX used on buildings and its almost completely smooth. I was told a texture is something the client can pick and choose. Rough or smooth.

We applied LINE-X to the vehicle as per the owner's directions.

The LINE-X texture can be varied from rather smooth to extremely rough.

The do-it-yourself products are not as durable as (most) professional products like LINE-X. For example, according to Herculiner's specifications (available on their website), the Taber abrasion test (1,000 revolutions) yielded 30.5 grams lost. LINE-X's Taber test yielded only .1525 grams. Also, keep in mind that Herculiner is 28% solvents that evaporate away. So, if you buy one gallon of Herc, you're only really getting about 3/4 of a gallon of actual bedliner product. (LINE-X does not contain any solvents.) My point is that if Herc is right for you, then fine, but you're not getting a product that's as good as most professional products.

LINE-X has an optional product called Xtra. Xtra is fade resistant, is more scratch and stain resistant, and is fortified with a Dupont Kevlar micropulp (Kevlar is 5 times stronger than steel). So, if fading is a concern, Xtra can be applied to prevent fading. Xtra is available in black or virtually any color.

i have to agree with the whole spraying over everything mantra...it looks unprofessional. we had a local guy who used to do Line-x. in my opinion it is way too rough. much rougher than Rhinoliner or some of the do it yourself kits. i just did a buddies rocker panels two weeks ago with Herculiner (wouldn't have been my choice). i sprayed it with a 20.00 undercoating gun and it came out looking much better than i expected. on par with professional jobs. the sad part is the Herculiner isn't UV stabilized and fades like crazy. i have some Duraback in a tan color i'm spraying in my disco when i get the sheet metal work finished. the Duraback is pricier but can be had in UV or non UV stabilized mixes. getting everything out of the way and covering screw holes etc. is the hardest part.

Black Rustoleum bought in quart cans works really, really well for me. Rust resistant, covers blemishes (these are Rovers we're talking about), easy to fix when it gets scraped off. Sprays, rolls and brushes easily in almost any weather. Inexpensive and easily available just about anywhere.

It may look good to some, but I don't like it.

You need to remove the floor panels and bolts to the seat box when you do this. And why coat the galvanized trim capping pieces. Or any of the galvanized trim pieces for that matter. Why didn't you spray the inside of the door and actually do some good with your work.

Looks like a cheap paint job where they don't mask half the items they should and just put the paint to it.

I think you just took away part of the value of that truck.

yeah that's the right way to do it but 9 times out of ten the customer won't pay for the labor to do that. I know that anytime KC did an interior job he took all of the essential bolts out before spraying. If the owner told him he didn't care about having access to the bolts (like trim bolts and such) he would spray over them. The hardest part about custom jobs (like interiors) is getting paid enough for them. Looks like the bolts were taken out in the top so I'm not sure why they weren't taken out in the seat box area.

-ben

The LINE-X texture can be varied from rather smooth to extremely rough.

The do-it-yourself products are not as durable as (most) professional products like LINE-X. For example, according to Herculiner's specifications (available on their website), the Taber abrasion test (1,000 revolutions) yielded 30.5 grams lost. LINE-X's Taber test yielded only .1525 grams. Also, keep in mind that Herculiner is 28% solvents that evaporate away. So, if you buy one gallon of Herc, you're only really getting about 3/4 of a gallon of actual bedliner product. (LINE-X does not contain any solvents.) My point is that if Herc is right for you, then fine, but you're not getting a product that's as good as most professional products.

LINE-X has an optional product called Xtra. Xtra is fade resistant, is more scratch and stain resistant, and is fortified with a Dupont Kevlar micropulp (Kevlar is 5 times stronger than steel). So, if fading is a concern, Xtra can be applied to prevent fading. Xtra is available in black or virtually any color.

i didn't know that line-x it could applied in different textures. the only texture i ever saw was about 60 grit...the biggest thing about the do-it-yourself stuff is the prep. when you have line-x sprayed by a professional (usually an autobody place) they know how to properly prep the surface. many do-it-yourselfers don't. a lot of the herculiner jobs are roll on jobs too. obviously the roller is not going to provide the same results as spraying. they are both polyurethane products, so their adhesion is directly related to the surface preparation. as for the solvent and VOC's they only really matter when you're spraying it. After it's cured, who cares. the do-it-yourself stuff is so much cheaper than the professional jobs that only getting 3/4 of a gallon is inconsequential in my opinion.

i watched some of line-x's stupid little promo videos on their website. i love the outside testing lab info. after describing the UV test, the guy says about the line-x samples they tested "they look great"...must be technical lab talk...the taber test is also misleading since the texture of the sample plays a huge part in that, and can vary a lot between samples. aside from the kevlar reinforced stuff and the UV inhibitors the basic composition of these polyurethane coatings is too similar to claim a huge advantage to one. everyone claims to be the most used, most popular, longest lasting...etc. it's like buying PPG or Dupont. both will be nicer when applied by a professional, or someone with formal training/lots of experience and the right equipment.

*i also have a ceramic paint additive i'm going to add to mine to try out. i might spray one side first to see how much it reduces floor temps.

I agree with some of what you stated, but not all.

Walk in to a Discount Tire store. You see tires and they all look the same and they are all made of rubber. But, tires can have VERY different physical properties. The same goes with bedliner products. Here's an example: Full Metal Jacket is a 100% polyurea bedliner product. LINE-X Paxcon (paxcon.com) is also 100% polyurea. Paxcon has blast mitigation properties and has been applied to portions of the U.S. Pentagon. Full Metal Jacket does not have these attributes and is NOTHING like Paxcon.

BTW, typical base components of bedliners products are either 100% polyurethane, 100% polyurea, or blends of both.

i know that they all have their special blend of additives that give their other products certain properties. i was referring solely to the bed liner aspect of their product lines. the biggest complaint about do-it-yourself bed liners is adhesion which is solely related to prep work in the case of bed liners. the other big complaint is texture which has to do more with application methods than brand. i think most all of the manufacturers use recycled rubber granules which they likely buy from the same place.

No question about it, surface preparation is EXTREMELY important. The DIY products need you to sandblast or sand and clean with acetone. You definitely need a good sanding profile. The good news is that assuming you get a good sanding profile, adhesion should be pretty good since many of these products (like Herculiner) are moisture cure.