OK, lets do this once and for all. Ive searched every previous post on this topic and come up with so many discrepencies that I would really like some solid, facts-only information.

I have an 89 with a All Pro SAS (toyota pickup SFA). I have a set of 36x12.5 Swamper SX's that I want to run on 15x8 steel wheels. Can anyone running this same setup tell me what I need for backspacing in order to preserve my turning radius. Ive gathered its somewhere from 3-3.5" but Ive also heard those numbers shot down, so I dont know what to think. I cant afford to make mistakes.


I figure this might be a good post for everyone to just list their setup, their rim width and tire size, so that anyone in the future can quickly search for what they need when it comes to wheel backspacing.

Thanks

-Greg

I run:

Tires: 36x12.50 TSLs
Wheels: 15x8 with 3.50" backspacing aluminum directionals
Spacers: No wheel spacers
Brakes: Vented rotor swap, 89 4-cyl calipers

My tires rub on the springs (or did before I adjusted the stops) and it turns like a battle ship. :(

The wheels clear the calipers, but only barely. I've seen or heard of other Toy owners having problems with aluminum wheels with this backspacing. Mine fit. I just need spacers so the damn thing isn't so narrow & tippy. And the thing might actually turn.

http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/sas/sas57.jpg
http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/sas/sas56.jpg

I have 33x12.50x15 Pro Comp AT's on 15x10 aluminum alloy rims. Backspacing is 3-5/8", no spacers or lift. I did a little sawzall surgery for clearance. I'll be doing a 3" body lift this weekend.

The backspacing was recommended to me by both the salesguy at 4wheelparts.com and a few local Toy owners. It works well for fender clearance (stock suspension & no lift), allows a wide tire, and......it looks beefy too :p . I haven't heard of any problems with this setup, provided the wheels are properly balanced and alignment is right.


Dave
CT Mobile Media

3.5 BS on 10" wheels 35 x 12.50 tiresAnd the thing might actually turn. I doubt it, it will make it harder to turn. Sticking them out farther makes it turn harder, Centering over knuckle bearings makes it turn easier. Get an ARB in the front, much easier to turn with the front un-locked!!!!:D

I hear so much about the benefits of running a 12.5" tire on an 8" rim as opposed to a 10", but a lot of you guys run 10's regardless. Whats your reasoning? Just like the wider stance?

Originally posted by dirtgreg
I hear so much about the benefits of running a 12.5" tire on an 8" rim as opposed to a 10", but a lot of you guys run 10's regardless. Whats your reasoning? Just like the wider stance? the reasoning is you don't lose a bead so easy, I run 16/35 boggers on 8's, works great, I run 2.5lbs front and 3.5 rear don't lose a bead and I run 20lbs front and 15 rear on the street. Who needs fawkin beadlocks now?

Originally posted by SeaBass44
the reasoning is you don't lose a bead so easy, I run 16/35 boggers on 8's, works great, I run 2.5lbs front and 3.5 rear don't lose a bead and I run 20lbs front and 15 rear on the street. Who needs fawkin beadlocks now?

Knowing that why would anyone run 10" rims unless they planned on getting beadlocks?

Originally posted by dirtgreg


Knowing that why would anyone run 10" rims unless they planned on getting beadlocks?

If they don't know it's ignorance, sine most do....it's stupidity:D....they think they are rear wide buy going 2" wider rims, but that depends on the bc a 4"-bs 10 rim sticks out the same as a 2"-bs 8" rim most rims are 3.5-4" so people want the wider 10", I may get some 38x11 boggers, then I'm looking for some 15x7"s:p

it seems to me that the farther away from the springs you can get with the wheel the better steering you will get.. That is why I have 2 inch backspacing 15x8 wheels with my 35's

Originally posted by SeaBass44


If they don't know it's ignorance, sine most do....it's stupidity:D....they think they are rear wide buy going 2" wider rims, but that depends on the bc a 4"-bs 10 rim sticks out the same as a 2"-bs 8" rim most rims are 3.5-4" so people want the wider 10", I may get some 38x11 boggers, then I'm looking for some 15x7"s:p

I think the real reason is people think 12.50 tire on 8" wheel looks cooler. Also a 4"BS 10" wheel sticks out as much as a 3" BS 8" wheel. I personally have 37x12.50 on 10" beadlocks. But I plan on going to 38.5x14.50 or 38.5x16's in the future

edit: I would run 3" or 2.5" on a toy with 36's to get max turning radius

Originally posted by NE-RokToy


I think the real reason is people think 12.50 tire on 8" wheel looks cooler. Also a 4"BS 10" wheel sticks out as much as a 3" BS 8" wheel. I personally have 37x12.50 on 10" beadlocks. But I plan on going to 38.5x14.50 or 38.5x16's in the future

edit: I would run 3" or 2.5" on a toy with 36's to get max turning radius

Thanks for the info. Im going to pick up a set of black tech 1 steelies. 3.5" of BS on a 15x8 and $47 a piece from 4 wheel farts. Then Ill grab the all pro wheel spacer kit. (Just add it to my order for a new LC Master Cyl since mine shit it today: Frozen Rear Brakes (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=742365) ) And Ill be at 2.75" of BS on each side. If anyone knows where I can score a better deal on black steel rims please let me know.

Originally posted by NE-RokToy


Also a 4"BS 10" wheel sticks out as much as a 3" BS 8" wheel.

on the 10 with 4" bs 6" sticks outward, and the 8 with 3" 5" sticks outward, so no they are not the same close a 8 with 2" bs would be the same simple math.:)

10-4=6
8-3=5
not the same

10-4=6
8-2=6
same:p

Seabass,

You are right on the rim math. But I wonder if NE-RokToy meant to say the tire, "sticks out as much". On a 10" w/4" bs a given tire's tread width would be located exactly in the same place if it were mounted on a 8" w/ 3" bs

[QUOTE]Originally posted by AlaskaToy
Seabass,

You are right on the rim math. But I wonder if NE-RokToy meant to say the tire, "sticks out as much". On a 10" w/4" bs a given tire's tread width would be located exactly in the same place if it were mounted on a 8" w/ 3" bs [QUOTE]same deal the rim sticks ot 1" farther on his example so the tire would too. with a 2" bs 8 and a 4" bs 10 the tire would be in the same place, not counting the bulge of the skinner rim..:)

Originally posted by AlaskaToy
Seabass,

You are right on the rim math. But I wonder if NE-RokToy meant to say the tire, "sticks out as much". On a 10" w/4" bs a given tire's tread width would be located exactly in the same place if it were mounted on a 8" w/ 3" bs

he gets what I'm putting down. A 8" 3"BS wheel has the same offset as a 10"4"BS wheel so it would have the tread in the same place which is what really matters to just about anyone, except maybe seabass :flipoff2:

Originally posted by NE-RokToy


he gets what I'm putting down. A 8" 3"BS wheel has the same offset as a 10"4"BS wheel so it would have the tread in the same place which is what really matters to just about anyone, except maybe seabass :flipoff2:

lol....you are still doing the math wrong, you are 1" off....easy look above for correct math, not "new math":D 8-3=5 not 6 I'm not trying to be an ASS, just add it up correctly, you stateed it wrong, big deal correct the math and move on, or next you will say the 1.3L puts out 650.hp not 65.0hp sdee what happens when the decemil point is moved...instant HP! move it the other way and it's 6.5hp, I know that's how my stocker felt though.:p

Originally posted by SeaBass44


lol....you are still doing the math wrong, you are 1" off....easy look above for correct math, not "new math":D 8-3=5 not 6 I'm not trying to be an ASS, just add it up correctly, you stateed it wrong, big deal correct the math and move on, or next you will say the 1.3L puts out 650.hp not 65.0hp sdee what happens when the decemil point is moved...instant HP! move it the other way and it's 6.5hp, I know that's how my stocker felt though.:p


:shaking:

Originally posted by AlaskaToy



:shaking:

padding??????? what some of my post count, so we don't have to slow down the bb with your icons? notice we are down to 3 per post not 15, it is BECAUSE THE BB IS SLOW........or can you not count too?

I am running 37x12.50 on a 15x10 2" BS wheel. I was originally going to buy sx's so I got the wider rim. I have to say that the truck drives like a friggin' race car on the street with this combo as long as you don't have to make a u turn! I think the extra width helps on the street and maybe a little on the trail, but after one trip, the rims were pretty hammered. I am considering going with the 8" rim to make em last a little longer.

Originally posted by TK
I am running 37x12.50 on a 15x10 2" BS wheel. I was originally going to buy sx's so I got the wider rim. I have to say that the truck drives like a friggin' race car on the street ............

So you really noticed it that much? Did the steering feel "heaver" to you?I had 12"s on before the 8"s they came on the rig and I scraped them on every rock, the 8's scraped once or twice the whole trip, the tire really protected trhe rims as well as makeing the tire stay firmy attached to the rim.

32x11.50x15
15x8 with 3.50 back spacing, perfect fit no rubbing with 4 inches of lift and front axle moved forward 2 inches. i could fit 35x12.50x15 easily with my rims!

Originally posted by r-sparky-h
32x11.50x15
15x8 with 3.50 back spacing, perfect fit no rubbing with 4 inches of lift and front axle moved forward 2 inches. i could fit 35x12.50x15 easily with my rims!

you lost me, the question is about 36"s not street tires[32's..lol]:flipoff2:

Originally posted by TK
I am running 37x12.50 on a 15x10 2" BS wheel. I was originally going to buy sx's so I got the wider rim. I have to say that the truck drives like a friggin' race car on the street with this combo as long as you don't have to make a u turn! I think the extra width helps on the street and maybe a little on the trail, but after one trip, the rims were pretty hammered. I am considering going with the 8" rim to make em last a little longer.


Woohoo! Tech. I thought we were trapped in a deadly cycle of bickering and elementary arithmetic.

I ordered my 15x8's w/ 3.5" BS today for $47 a piece, 4 wheel parts is offering free shipping, I assumed ground, but after checking again I was able to score next day air for free (supposedly).

Ill throw everything on this week and try turning the wheels without the wheel spacers installed. The truck wont move from my driveway, (due to my faulty master cylinder) but my new MC is coming with the .75" spacer kit.

Originally posted by SeaBass44


you lost me, the question is about 36"s not street tires[32's..lol]:flipoff2:

Actully the question is about all tires, I just happen to have 36's. :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by dirtgreg



Woohoo! Tech. I thought we were trapped in a deadly cycle of bickering and elementary arithmetic.

I ordered my 15x8's w/ 3.5" BS today for $47 a piece, 4 wheel parts is offering free shipping, I assumed ground, but after checking again I was able to score next day air for free (supposedly).

Ill throw everything on this week and try turning the wheels without the wheel spacers installed. The truck wont move from my driveway, (due to my faulty master cylinder) but my new MC is coming with the .75" spacer kit.

so why not order the correct bs? why mess with spacers? custom bs usally $15 per wheel, was there a long wait or something?

Originally posted by SeaBass44


so why not order the correct bs? why mess with spacers? custom bs usally $15 per wheel, was there a long wait or something?

Ive got an IFS rear, and I wanted to even out the front. the BS doesnt really matter in the rear, its the the front that I would have clearancing problems with, so naturally spacers seemed like a good option. Also the only custom BS option i found were steelies from US Wheel through Rockstomper. And they come unpainted. Ive waited over a year and a half to go wheeling, I dont want to have my rims come in just to drop them off at a Powder-Coater.

Originally posted by dirtgreg


Ive got an IFS rear, and I wanted to even out the front. the BS doesnt really matter in the rear, its the the front that I would have clearancing problems with, so naturally spacers seemed like a good option. Also the only custom BS option i found were steelies from US Wheel through Rockstomper. And they come unpainted. Ive waited over a year and a half to go wheeling, I dont want to have my rims come in just to drop them off at a Powder-Coater.

Good Reason! I'm wheeling with unpainted sandblasted rims the wrong offset and an unpainted full 6 point cage, paint can wait! get to wheelin.....damn bb so slow it took me 10 mins to reply:mad:

Originally posted by SeaBass44


Good Reason! I'm wheeling with unpainted sandblasted rims the wrong offset and an unpainted full 6 point cage, paint can wait! get to wheelin.....damn bb so slow it took me 10 mins to reply:mad:

Ill help you understand. Under my location it says "Southern NH", Under yours it says "Oroville, CA". Where I come from, if you buy something for your truck, and dont paint it, you might as well just burn your money, becuase it wont last 6 months. :(

Originally posted by SeaBass44


So you really noticed it that much? Did the steering feel "heaver" to you?I had 12"s on before the 8"s they came on the rig and I scraped them on every rock, the 8's scraped once or twice the whole trip, the tire really protected trhe rims as well as makeing the tire stay firmy attached to the rim.

Not sure what you mean "noticed it that much"- rim damage-hell ya, heavy steering-tough to say beecause I used to have 33's

Anyone want to trade 4 X brand spankin new 15X10 2" BS wheels and one with rock rash for 5 brand new 15X8" 2" BS wheels?(got 4 replaced for other reasons.)

Originally posted by TK


Not sure what you mean "noticed it that much"-................Originally posted by TK
......................I have to say that the truck drives like a friggin' race car on the street with this combo .............


this is what I ment to quote................that's why I asked.
;)