I did search and it appears that some have looked into installing the Volvo AW71 transmission. I did not find any application however puting this transmission behind a 16L 16v engine, so I will try to do this and let you know how it turns out.

For those that have not heard of this transmission, it is a 4 speed automatic with 0.688 overdrive that has mechanical shifting, no computers. It is the same family of transmissions used by Suzuki, Toyota, Isuzu, Volvo and others (Aisin AW / Japan) only this is their mechanical version.

It has a single wire going to the transmission which attaches to the shifter overdrive switch. It also has a cable that attaches to the throttle linkage for telling the transmission when to down shift. The transmission is also short and should fit without moving the transfer case.

I have bought the volvo transmission with torque converter and bought a sidekick 4speed auto transmission bell housing (Aisin), flex plate and shifter assembly.

The bell housing fit perfectly onto the transmission. What I still need to do is to drill the sidekick flex plate to fit the volvo torque converter. I am also concerned whether or not the transmission main shaft will fit into the sidekick crank shaft pilot. If it does not, I will deal with that and advise also.

The shift mechanism on the transmission is on the drivers side, but the cable to the shifter should be able to go to either side with no problem. The fill / dip stick is also on the drivers side. I do not think this will be an issue either, as I was able to get the tube to move close to the bell housing, thus it should clear the exhaust.

I will try to post photos when I can.

I am also putting another frame under my rig. I have a spare frame that I can set up with out the body on it. My original frame has been modified, repaired, stretched and now that I know where the weak areas are, I should be able to build one that will last a long time with no or little problems.

I thought I should explain this as my photos will probably include some of the frame modifications, the transmission mounting changes, etc.:)

the transmission main shaft goes into the torque converter and not the back of the crankshaft like on a manual transmission

as long as the nub on the center of the converter doesn't interfere with the back of the crank, you are good to go

cool will be watching this one.:D

Thanks.

Since you seem to know about these transmissions, what about the neutral safety switch. How does that work.

Here are some photos of the Volvo Transmission.

looks like good tech to come. subscribed.

Here are photos of the sidekick shifter, and bell housing sitting next to the Volvo bell housing. The last photo is the sidekick housing installed on the transmission with the fill tube moved towards the bell housing and back toward the fire wall.

Cool idea. Subscribed!

Very impessive stretch...

This thing is VERY cool...

Rubizuk very cool indeed. What model and years Volvo's have this trans in them? I assume they are in Volvo's. I saw the pic with the name plate. Thanks

The one I got is out of a 1993 Volvo 940 Turbo. They are also in the 740 / 760 series, early Toyota Supra's and the Toyota pickup made for campers.

The Turbo torque converter has a higher stall / lock rpm. I figure running 37" tires, the turbo converter maybe better for me.:)

Very cool. If you look on zuwharrie.com, there are a couple really good threads with excellent tech on them about this swap. A few guys there are allready running it! I'm thinking about it myself.

Very impessive stretch...

This thing is VERY cool...

That zuk belongs to Larry. He did a great job of stretching the front clip and the rear. He did a great job on it.

Back on topic, I'm waiting to see how this works out. If it works, it would be a great solution to trying to hunt down one of those rare sidekick 2wd transmissions.

The BW71 (that auto) is exactly the same as the box that is used in corrola's have in australia
i have one here addapted to toy (hilux) transfer and belhousing to suit 4AGE (twin cam 1600 100kw toyota engen)
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j139/PSI713/zook%20build/Image001.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j139/PSI713/zook%20build/Image024.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j139/PSI713/zook%20build/Image017.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j139/PSI713/zook%20build/Image019.jpg

Phil

That zuk belongs to Larry. He did a great job of stretching the front clip and the rear. He did a great job on it.

Back on topic, I'm waiting to see how this works out. If it works, it would be a great solution to trying to hunt down one of those rare sidekick 2wd transmissions.

Vince

Are you going to Fun in the Desert?

Also, have you come up with a solution to the lower twin stick seal?

You should speak with Zooky and Wildweasel. Both have been running this set up behind 1.6l motors. Wildweasel installed his in an X90. Zooky did a lot of research on this and what works with what. It could save you a lot of effort.

my tranny is making noise ( stock manual ) so thinking of a swap. What is the first gear ratio?

(I am 'zooky' on Zuwharrie)
sure, when I months of research and many posts nobody gives a shit :flipoff2:.

Wildweasel has successfully been running one in his 16v X-90 for over a year. I have one adapted but have not ran it yet. It will also bolt to a 22R for those wanting to run one it their sami (or toyota).
These transmissions are easy to find in the junk yards, pretty much all RWD volvos from the 80's up had them.
If you can find one with an 'L' after the part number on the tag it has a 'lock-up' converter. Aside from the advantages of a lock-up converter, you can use the sidekick (4 -speed) converter, making the install even easier. An AW-72 has a lower first and slightly higher overdrive ratio and an AW-72L torque converter has a lot higher torque mutiplication factor (read that once, couldnt find the info again)
I made an adapter for a toyota T-case. I did it in my garage with just a saws-all and a drill press. The volvo output (of the transmission I used, there are a few different spline counts) happened to be 23 spline, matching the toyota T-case splines. Here is a pic, it looks long but is actually 1" shorter then the sami drivetrain:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=dlattach;topic=60994.0;attach=61870 ;image

Here is frzuki's install with a sami case, you have to make a driveshaft to connect the two:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=dlattach;topic=76924.0;attach=90133 ;image

Here is it bolted to his 16v:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=dlattach;topic=76924.0;attach=84811 ;image

Like rubikuk said, the only wire is a constant 12v for the overdrive (even that can be eliminated) and a kick down cable. There is no computer or vacuum source required. Wildweasel relocated the trans dipstick to the passenger side due to exhaust clearence issues

Thanks.

Since you seem to know about these transmissions, what about the neutral safety switch. How does that work.

the volvo had those switches in the shifter, not mounted on the transmission like the sidekick.
In this pic, you can see the bolt hole that holds the switch pack, just above and to the right of where the shift rod exits the case. The sidekick switch pack should bolt right on, I am not sure if the volvo shift rod would engage it, but you could always swap in the sidekick shift rod (not that difficult. While you are in there, swap in the sidekick kick-down cable to make the throttle hook up easier), this would give you youe neutral safety and reverse lights:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=391441&stc=1&d=1221606381

Thanks Samiguy, good info.:)

I think I will look for a Sidekick torque converter.

(1) 2.45:1 (2) 1.45:1 (3) 1.00:1 (4) 0.69:1

this thread is HOT! can't wait to see how it fits! are you using EFI, and if so what type/year/computer?

I am running a efi 16L 16v Sidekick engine that was mated with a manuel transmission, thus I have no computer for any trans.

Thats the beauty of the AW71 series transmissions, they is a machanical transmission and do not need any computer.

Here is some info I found on them. Gives some gear ratios with different models etc. I'd like to do this as well!

http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/tranny.htm

The cable is called t/v control cable and it needs to be hooked up. This controls when and how it shifts, very important to have this right! the soleniod on side is for overdrive and can be bypassed with bigger o-ring on the outside(take inside o-ring out). the pilot on end of converter needs to be centered in crankshaft, this is what supports the converter. The converter bolts are not meant to support wieght of converter and will break flexplate. And I am doing auto in my buggy with rock rat adapter for duel cases. Truck trader I have two extra autos w/t-cases both early and late

(I am 'zooky' on Zuwharrie)
sure, when I months of research and many posts nobody gives a shit :flipoff2:.


No good deed goes unpunished.:p

Thanks for the input.

I have located a sidekick torque converter, so that should eliminate any problems in that area.

I currently have the side kick 3 speed auto that also has the t/v cable and plan to adapt the t/v control cable to the same throttle linkage. There are adjustments within the cable. I do not expect too much difficulty here.

One thing that confusses me though. I have been running the 3 sped auto, 6.5:1 transfer case gears and 5.29 axle gears with 37" tires for 2 years, I have found no need for lower gears. Any time I want to I can spin the tires or merely crawl and have never been at a loss for power to turn the tires on rocks. Why would you want dual transfer cases?

Thanks for the input.

I have located a sidekick torque converter, so that should eliminate any problems in that area.

I currently have the side kick 3 speed auto that also has the t/v cable and plan to adapt the t/v control cable to the same throttle linkage. There are adjustments within the cable. I do not expect too much difficulty here.

One thing that confusses me though. I have been running the 3 sped auto, 6.5:1 transfer case gears and 5.29 axle gears with 37" tires for 2 years, I have found no need for lower gears. Any time I want to I can spin the tires or merely crawl and have never been at a loss for power to turn the tires on rocks. Why would you want dual transfer cases?

HOLD OFF ON THAT TORQUE CONVERTER!
It wont work with your transmission since yours is not a lock-up (AW-71L), the sidekick version is a lock-up style. The lock-up type has an extra splined section and is not interchangable with the non lock-up.

If your going to drive it on the street, GEAR IT FOR THE STREET, the off road gearing will work its self out. I agree, I dont think the 'no such thing as too low' saying applies here, you dont want to be in overdrive at 4 MPH. I have 4:1 T-case, Kicker3, 4.10 gears behind a 3-speed auto. I never "need" to engage the Kicker3. I can crawl and have wheel speed on demand

There are a few free mods you can do to the transmission to firm up the shifts (like a shift kit) so it runs cooler and shifts better

There are a few free mods you can do to the transmission to firm up the shifts (like a shift kit) so it runs cooler and shifts better


Got any links to a shift kit for this? (thinking the GV).

Got any links to a shift kit for this? (thinking the GV).

this should get you started:

http://www.heebspeed.com/?page_id=12

http://www.heebspeed.com/?page_id=10

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=108965

this should get you started:

http://http://www.heebspeed.com/?page_id=12

http://http://www.heebspeed.com/?page_id=10

http://http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=108965


is it just me or did your links not work?

If your going to drive it on the street, GEAR IT FOR THE STREET, the off road gearing will work its self out.

one of the best things you can do... it just happens to be my reason for pondering the wonders of .62 overdrive! :homer: so much better to plan from the beginning...
hope this writeup goes into road (on and off) testing driveability before it dies :smokin:

hope this writeup goes into road (on and off) testing driveability before it dies :smokin:
me too, these threads usually fizzle out and you never hear how things work out

is it just me or did your links not work?

Worked fine for me.

You will find that I don't easily quit. I took the Volvo Torque converter and flex plate to a local transmission specialist today. They are to get back with me soon.

If nothing else, we will have their machine shop drill the flex plate, and go forward. I will let you know.

PS. I did some research first and fell this will work. I cannot see why a Samurai cannot go down the highway and still be a good rock crawler, damn, if j--ps can do it, why cann't we do it better?

You will find that I don't easily quit. I took the Volvo Torque converter and flex plate to a local transmission specialist today. They are to get back with me soon.

If nothing else, we will have their machine shop drill the flex plate, and go forward. I will let you know.

PS. I did some research first and fell this will work. I cannot see why a Samurai cannot go down the highway and still be a good rock crawler, damn, if j--ps can do it, why cann't we do it better?
Wildweasel and frizuki redrilled the flexplate, thats not a big deal.
I cant drive on the highway with the 3-speed, but the OD would have helped. I have been waiting for someone to finish one in a sami, interested in the performance

Rubizuk, witch T-case you going to use? I was going to make an adapter to marry a sami case to and have found a way to adapt a Kicker doubler to it for duals. You can do a samicase with a short jack shaft

These transmissions were used in Toyota Surpas,and those 1 ton camper/box trucks so they are pretty robust

I will use the samurai transfer case and run a short shaft.

I will use the samurai transfer case and run a short shaft.

easiest way to go, did they cut off the drive shaft so the flange can be used to fab up the shaft?

i don't know about you but i learned a long time ago if you take a trans or something from a other type of truck to use in mine, to take the flanges that were there anyway, then again i grew up in a racing family.

I got the flang with the trans and it looks like the toyota drive shaft flangs will mate up. I held up a samurai drive shaft to it and I can merely drill the transmission flag to accept the samurai shaft or locate a toyota drive shaft and adapt it to work.

I mentioned earlier that besides doing this transmission exhange, I am building a new frame from the ground up. I am currently running the Petro Works motor mounts for my 16v engine and want to change. I am looking to lower the engine about 1" to get more clearance between the hood and the upper engine.

I can fabricate the brackets if I need to, what I am looking for is a good mount to work with that can't come apart when it fails. Anybody have any suggestions.

Thanks :)

i do have a question on this. can this be made to bolt up to a 1.3?

i do have a question on this. can this be made to bolt up to a 1.3?

I have no idea. Someone else maybe better to answer this one.

The lucky 13 will let you bolt a 1.6 bellhousing to the 1.3 block. I'll bet you could make it work.

I am looking to lower the engine about 1" to get more clearance between the hood and the upper engine.


1" body lift? added benefit is more room for mounting auxiliary crossmembers atop the frame rails (like for wrap bar, fuel tank mounts, shock mounts) also gives more room for front shock towers, more radiator space, an extra inch of tire rub clearance, and it's cheep.

1" body lift? added benefit is more room for mounting auxiliary crossmembers atop the frame rails (like for wrap bar, fuel tank mounts, shock mounts) also gives more room for front shock towers, more radiator space, an extra inch of tire rub clearance, and it's cheep.

Very good suggestion.

Any more progress?

im also thinking about this behind my 1.3. i know from above that i need a lucky 13, but are the output shafts the same on the 1.3 vs the 1.6? (will the trackick flex plate fit?)

Any more progress?

I am also building another frame to put under my rig. The current frame has been patch, stretched and patched again I want to build a frame and reinforce the weak areas, etc.

I got the flex plate drilled (they had to partially plug two holes before drilling) and picked up another 16V long block from a friend so I can set up the engine and trans, build the trans mount bracket and drive shaft before I set the body back on. Should also make for good photo's.

I ordered new motor mounts from Petro Works, but it appears they are having a problem getting the center rubbers. If I don't get them soon, I may have to look at other mounts.

I also took last weekend off and spent 4 days at the Hammers. I plan to start setting up the engine & trans next week.

Larry:)

Nice project Larry, I can't wait to see this thing when it's done. I'm curious to see how much power that trans will soak up.

The one I got is out of a 1993 Volvo 940 Turbo. They are also in the 740 / 760 series, early Toyota Supra's and the Toyota pickup made for campers.

The Turbo torque converter has a higher stall / lock rpm. I figure running 37" tires, the turbo converter maybe better for me.:)

Hello all. I'd heard of the adaptation of the Volvo AW-71 to the Suzuki drive train and it peaked my interested. I'm looking to repower an old CJ-3B (sacrilege, I know) with a dead engine. I'm primarily a Volvo guy (turbos especially), and I figured a 4-cyl turbo in a 3B would be entertaining. My main sticking point was RPM's, seeing as I'm working with 5.38 gears, so an O/D is a must. That's where the Tracker/Sidekick automagic comes in to play - it's a 03-71LE and the Volvo is a 03-71. Two options here, either rig up the TCM off a Sidekick or see if the output adapter and transfer case will bolt on to the 03-71. Oh, I'll need to see which 03-71 output is in use on the Tracker transfer case since there are two outputs available on the 03-71, early sleeved variety and later (92-up) uses a ball bearing ass'y on the output. The later type also does not have the facility for a speedo drive since that transmission was for 700/900's with electric speedometers.

Anyone out there have a 03-71E out of a Tracker with a transfer case that they can part with or take pictures?

Thanks, hope I'm not intruding.

Regards,

you can make or buy an adapter to install a toyota T-case behind a volvo transmission. There is no TCM for the sidekick transmission, it is controlled by the ECM. Since you are running a volvo engine, a volvo transmission would be the way to go. You could also adapt a sidekick T-case to the volvo transmission but you would have to respline the volvo output to accept the sidekick T-case. For the work involved, I would go with the better toyota T-case. If you do, use the newer AW71 (or AW72)(with or with out the 'L') with the roller bearing, the bearing is better AND it has a 23 spline output that matches the 23 spline Toyota T-case input making it easier to couple the two.

you can make or buy an adapter to install a toyota T-case behind a volvo transmission. There is no TCM for the sidekick transmission, it is controlled by the ECM. Since you are running a volvo engine, a volvo transmission would be the way to go. You could also adapt a sidekick T-case to the volvo transmission but you would have to respline the volvo output to accept the sidekick T-case. For the work involved, I would go with the better toyota T-case. If you do, use the newer AW71 (or AW72)(with or with out the 'L') with the roller bearing, the bearing is better AND it has a 23 spline output that matches the 23 spline Toyota T-case input making it easier to couple the two.

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm also looking at adapting the the Sidekick transfer case to the Volvo 03-71, but I need to see a Sidekick 03-71LE at the point where the transfer case adapter bolts to the back of the transmission, i.e., where the tailshaft housing would bolt up on Volvo transmission. I'm not so sure that a re-splining would be required.

I've looked into the TCM - the '95 Sidekick has an independent TCM that's supposed to be on the steering column on the driver side. Is this incorrect? My thinking is that it should be possible to get a PIC programmed to operate the transmission and lockup of a 03-71LE as required. I have the Suzuki factory automatic transmission manual and it has all the shift points and lockup info and it looks do-able. The bell housings are swap-able and it should be possible to re-drill the engine's flexplate to fit the torque converter.

Just to add more background: This is a stock CJ-3B with 5.38 gearing. I'm not looking to make a rock crawler out of it. Maybe down the line I'll put a TH350/dana-20 behind it, this is just my experiment/toy for now, with a few fishing trips in it's future.

I've done a ton of research on this subject. I didnt look alot into the sidekick trans but I am almost positive that it does not have a seperate computer. I built an adapter for a toyota T-case, I think it is a better case and it is a pretty short setup. It will hold up to the volvo power better and you wont have slip yokes to worry about.
But to answer your question, a sidekick T-case can be adapted. I already started working on this project. I have a Kicker3 (sidekick T-case modified to be a doubler) that I am adapting to the volvo trans. I had pics but dont have access to them. The sidekick 03-71LE has an adapter (1.5" thick) between the transmission and T-case. I have this adapter and confirmed that it will bolt to the volvo 03-71, then of course this means that the sidekick T-case will bolt to the other side. The sidekick T-case has a female input gear, the volvo (male) output is too big (and long) to slide into the T-case. There is enough materal on the volvo shaft to have it cut down and resplined. I removed a sidekick output, its pretty easy, I need to get a volvo output so I can get it sent out to get it to match the sidekick one. You cannot swap the sidekick output into the volvo trans (I already thought of that!) because the internal plumbing it that part is different between the electronic and non-electronic transmissions. I want to put a B230FT in a toyota PU since it will bolt up to the 2wd toyota auto.

Well, that takes care of that alternative.:shaking: I'm going to investigate two other alternatives: divorced transfer case or build a PIC-based controller for the 03-71LE and swap bell housings.

I've done a ton of research on this subject. I didnt look alot into the sidekick trans but I am almost positive that it does not have a seperate computer. I built an adapter for a toyota T-case, I think it is a better case and it is a pretty short setup. It will hold up to the volvo power better and you wont have slip yokes to worry about.
But to answer your question, a sidekick T-case can be adapted. I already started working on this project. I have a Kicker3 (sidekick T-case modified to be a doubler) that I am adapting to the volvo trans. I had pics but dont have access to them. The sidekick 03-71LE has an adapter (1.5" thick) between the transmission and T-case. I have this adapter and confirmed that it will bolt to the volvo 03-71, then of course this means that the sidekick T-case will bolt to the other side. The sidekick T-case has a female input gear, the volvo (male) output is too big (and long) to slide into the T-case. There is enough materal on the volvo shaft to have it cut down and resplined. I removed a sidekick output, its pretty easy, I need to get a volvo output so I can get it sent out to get it to match the sidekick one. You cannot swap the sidekick output into the volvo trans (I already thought of that!) because the internal plumbing it that part is different between the electronic and non-electronic transmissions. I want to put a B230FT in a toyota PU since it will bolt up to the 2wd toyota auto.

I think there is a stand alone controller out there somewhere, I've seen it posted

oh yea, if you run the sidekick transmission you can use the AW71L/72L (must be 'L') torque converter, no need to redrill the flex plate or worry about the crank knub

great info subscribing

I did make some more progress today. I got another engine from a friend, some new motor mounts and was able to bolt the transmission to the engine and set it in the frame. I also set a spare transfer case in the frame.

The transmission bolted to the frame great.

With the motor mount slid all the way foward, I have 5" between the transmission output flange and the transfer case flange. Pretty tight.

I have thought of moving the transfer case back or engine forward or both, but those are not what I prefer.

Any ideas on how to make a 5" drive shaft?

personally i think i would move t-case forward to lenthen rear drive shaft and just put 2 flanges together with 1 ujoint. take out the stock style t-case mounts and use like multi piece Heep body mounts that use a through bolt. the mounts will limit the t-case movement but still allow a little cushion. Or put shafts in lathe to make a square cut to remove yokes and cut the tubing in lathe also for the same reason press together and weld. that center drive shaft has much less load on it than the other 2 anywhere between 2.5 and 6.5 times less torque, depending on transfer case gears.

personally i think i would move t-case forward to lenthen rear drive shaft and just put 2 flanges together with 1 ujoint. take out the stock style t-case mounts and use like multi piece Heep body mounts that use a through bolt. the mounts will limit the t-case movement but still allow a little cushion. Or put shafts in lathe to make a square cut to remove yokes and cut the tubing in lathe also for the same reason press together and weld. that center drive shaft has much less load on it than the other 2 anywhere between 2.5 and 6.5 times less torque, depending on transfer case gears.

I measured the total length of the 2 flanges and 1 u-joint like you mentioned and it is 3". I have (2) 1" spacers and putting one spacer on each outer flange make the 5", the distance I need with out moving anything.

This is something to consider, Thanks.:)

try the easy stuff first. my lonly concern would be excessive flex between the motor/trany mounts and the t-csae mounts. you don't want solid but tight isolated rubber or urethane every where. i got front u-joint bind this past weekend and broke the inside lip where the front output bearing seats and the "tit" off of the front output where it engages the inner bearing. I can't see the good motor mounts you have causing any binding like that.

try the easy stuff first. my lonly concern would be excessive flex between the motor/trany mounts and the t-csae mounts. you don't want solid but tight isolated rubber or urethane every where. i got front u-joint bind this past weekend and broke the inside lip where the front output bearing seats and the "tit" off of the front output where it engages the inner bearing. I can't see the good motor mounts you have causing any binding like that.

I run the Trail Tough Kong transfer case mount. I am considering mounting the rear of the transmission off of it, thus the transmission and transfer case will move together.

I a chance to do a little more today. I decided to build the drive shaft, and move the transfer case back 2".

Looks good there. It ought to allow a bit of play for ya.

im sure this has been covered somewhere, but has anyone on here put the entire 2.3 turbo and 4 speed auto in a zuk? it looks like it should fit with plenty of power with mechanical injection and a factory turbo. it is cheap too, ive found a bunch of running rigs for $1000

For those that have not heard of this transmission, it is a 4 speed automatic with 0.688 overdrive that has mechanical shifting, no computers. It is the same family of transmissions used by Suzuki, Toyota, Isuzu, Volvo and others (Aisin AW / Japan) only this is their mechanical version.

It has a single wire going to the transmission which attaches to the shifter overdrive switch. It also has a cable that attaches to the throttle linkage for telling the transmission when to down shift.
I have bought the volvo transmission with torque converter and bought a sidekick 4speed auto transmission bell housing (Aisin), flex plate and shifter assembly.

The bell housing fit perfectly onto the transmission.



I want to put a automatic behind my vw diesel in my sammi connected to a kicker 3 style doubler i already have.

I already bought a aisin 03-72le out of a vitara with torque converter but it
seems that this is a computer controlled one?

passenger side view (http://4x4fotos.nl/upload/files/q9p12uptehj2892vz1h8.jpg)

type nr (http://4x4fotos.nl/upload/files/4tpqqj5oae42f85i6y8i.jpg)

What is the type nr of the mechanical version and does it use vacuum to shift and will it work with the diesel?
If it uses vacuum and the volvo doesn't i can get a aw71 and put the bell housing of the vitara trans on i already have?
Can i put the back section of the vitara trans on the volvo one to fit the
kick3 doubler?

Sorry for the bad english and the volume of questions
I just really want a automatic in my diesel sammi :D

I want to put a automatic behind my vw diesel in my sammi connected to a kicker 3 style doubler i already have.

I already bought a aisin 03-72le out of a vitara with torque converter but it
seems that this is a computer controlled one?

passenger side view (http://4x4fotos.nl/upload/files/q9p12uptehj2892vz1h8.jpg)

type nr (http://4x4fotos.nl/upload/files/4tpqqj5oae42f85i6y8i.jpg)

What is the type nr of the mechanical version and does it use vacuum to shift and will it work with the diesel?
If it uses vacuum and the volvo doesn't i can get a aw71 and put the bell housing of the vitara trans on i already have?
Can i put the back section of the vitara trans on the volvo one to fit the
kick3 doubler?

Sorry for the bad english and the volume of questions
I just really want a automatic in my diesel sammi :D

The mechanical versions of the transmission are the 03-71 or 03-72 and the 03-71L or 03-72L (L meaning locking torque converter). If you can find the L version, you can use the flex plate and torque converter from the E version and then not have to drill the flex plate to match the volvo torque converter.

These transmissions do not run off of vacuum, but have one wire which tells the trans to use the overdrive or to go out of overdrive and a cable which goes to the throttle to govern the shifting.

The bell housing you have should work.

As for the kick3 doubler, with the automatic you will find that you do not need it. The torque convert acts as a double already.

Hope this helps.

a Kicker3 can be adapted to the volvo transmission but requires some fabrication. It is kinda overkill with the automatic but it makes mounting everything easier. I was going to make an adapter to marry a sami case to this transmission but never got around to it.
I would use the volvo 2.3 turbo engine if I built a toyota, its a good engine, with this transmission with a toyota T-case adapted to it. It is slightly longer then the toyota engine and getting it into a sami and dealing with the intercooler and all its plumbing would be alot of work stuffing into the small sami engine bay, there are easier engine choices.

Tnx for the info
What i have now is this setup:

http://4x4fotos.nl/upload/files/o3knmhaxmz0e4b6f4q9a.jpg

It's a vitara manual to a volvo m40 4-speed gearbox (that's what i meant with the kicker3 style adapter)
There will be a mercedes g-wagon (gelandewagen) transfer case behind it, i'm fabricating the adapter for that right now.

http://4x4fotos.nl/upload/files/v8e5ig1g5683jr8rpomd.jpg

I fabricated all this before i decided i wanted to go automatic(had problems with my clutch again) so i really want to use my vitara to volvo adapter if its possible so i can always go back to the manual if the automatic doesn't work out. That's why i want to put the back end of the vitara automatic on the volvo automatic if that fits... Will that fit?

Edit: what will be the best option, a 03-72l? There's a lot of volvo's here, so i can narrow my search

Got some work done today. Built the transmission mount brackets and welded the drive shaft. Here are photos of the modified transfer case mount bracket and transmission brackets.
397541

397542

397543

397544

397545

here are the rest of the photos

Edit: what will be the best option, a 03-72l? There's a lot of volvo's here, so i can narrow my search
that would be a good choice, the torque converter is suppose to have a lower reduction ratio.

nice simple mount Rubizuk. Are you going to relocate the trans dipstick to the other side of the pan? It seems like the exhaust will get in the way of it.

that would be a good choice, the torque converter is suppose to have a lower reduction ratio.

nice simple mount Rubizuk. Are you going to relocate the trans dipstick to the other side of the pan? It seems like the exhaust will get in the way of it.

I moved the dipstick tube closer to the flywheel housing, about 1" and I think I will have enough clearance for the exhaust. If I don't, I will then move it.

I pulled the pan on the transmission and found it has a spacer between the pickup screen and the value body. This spacer is almost 3/4" thick.

I went to the local Volvo dealer and got 2 more spacers, gaskets and some longer screws and decided to modify the pan. With the 3 speed auto I am running now, it wants to run out of fluid on steep climbs unless I over fill it, then I have to deal with the over filling issues. I think this should give me more fluid without having to overfill.

smart move, resourceful and well done. traditional samurai style at its finest!

Maybe I am missing something, but where is the slip in the jack shaft?

I can't believe the engine/trans and the t-case will move in perfect harmony!

There should be a little "give" there, correct?:confused:

Maybe I am missing something, but where is the slip in the jack shaft?

I can't believe the engine/trans and the t-case will move in perfect harmony!

There should be a little "give" there, correct?:confused:

The engine and transmission only rock side to side, not front to back, the same is true of the transfer case. Since there is no back and forth motion or in and out motion, no slip shaft should be needed.

To help, I also run motor mounts that limit the side to side motion and the same with the transfer case.

By having 2 UJoints in the short shaft, they should allow for any movement that will occur.

You MIGHT want to look at an OEM set up with a jack shaft, they all have slip joints.

Think about it this way:

I agree that the engine and trans move (rotate) side to side as the torque runs through them...

the t-case will do the same.

BUT they may not move at the same rate BECAUSE of the jack shaft.

Therefore you are relying on the jack shaft to make up the difference in rotation.

That will cause the EFFECTIVE length of the jack shaft to change, and MIGHT break the jack shaft.

A slip would allow the trans/engine and t-case to move independently.

-Chris

Very good and informative thread here !
What about the front driveshaft clearance with the sammy case ?
I'm doing a swap with a 2.0 Opel (GM) engine with a Aisin AR25 auto into a LWB narrow track right now and just found out that the front driveshaft hits the tranny oil pan at full bump. I still have to open the tranny oil pan to see if I can redesign the one edge where it hits. We're talking about 1/2" that's needed.

You MIGHT want to look at an OEM set up with a jack shaft, they all have slip joints.

Think about it this way:

I agree that the engine and trans move (rotate) side to side as the torque runs through them...

the t-case will do the same.

BUT they may not move at the same rate BECAUSE of the jack shaft.

Therefore you are relying on the jack shaft to make up the difference in rotation.

That will cause the EFFECTIVE length of the jack shaft to change, and MIGHT break the jack shaft.

A slip would allow the trans/engine and t-case to move independently.

-Chris

I gave this a lot of thought and I do not see any problem. I have been running solid transfer case mounts for some time with no problems and will keep them for now. This stops 99.9% of the transfer case movement. The dual ujoints should be able to flex and be able to handle the little movement left. Time will tell, but I feel comforable taking the chance.

Very good and informative thread here !
What about the front driveshaft clearance with the sammy case ?
I'm doing a swap with a 2.0 Opel (GM) engine with a Aisin AR25 auto into a LWB narrow track right now and just found out that the front driveshaft hits the tranny oil pan at full bump. I still have to open the tranny oil pan to see if I can redesign the one edge where it hits. We're talking about 1/2" that's needed.

I have been running the GM 3 speed auto out of a side kick for a few years and have never had the drive shaft hit the pan and the last time I put this truck on the ramp I scored a 1347.

The Volvo transmission is also 3" narrower than the GM I already have and maybe something for you to consider if you can't gain the clearance you need.

Larry

Or you could put toyota axles in it, the pumpkin would be a bit further to the right than the narrow axle.
Very neat thread indeed.

I want to keep the current 4spd auto, most likely I will notch the pan a bit or put the t-case a bit more sideways.

I gave this a lot of thought and I do not see any problem. I have been running solid transfer case mounts for some time with no problems and will keep them for now. This stops 99.9% of the transfer case movement. The dual ujoints should be able to flex and be able to handle the little movement left. Time will tell, but I feel comforable taking the chance.

Larry

OK...

I certainly wasn't trying to tell you what to do, just thought I would mention it b/c it looked iffy to me.

Cool build, good luck!

(Since you are half way there with the trans swap, you should throw a 2.3 16V Volvo engine in there...with a TURBO! :smokin::evil:)

-Chris

(Since you are half way there with the trans swap, you should throw a 2.3 16V Volvo engine in there...with a TURBO! :smokin::evil:)

-Chris

I've thought about that but its about 2" longer then a 22R and would be a tight fit. I would put one in a toyota, the volvo bellhousing will bolt to the 2wd toyota transmission.

Wildweasel and frizuki redrilled the flexplate, thats not a big deal.
I cant drive on the highway with the 3-speed, but the OD would have helped. I have been waiting for someone to finish one in a sami, interested in the performance

Rubizuk, witch T-case you going to use? I was going to make an adapter to marry a sami case to and have found a way to adapt a Kicker doubler to it for duals. You can do a samicase with a short jack shaft

These transmissions were used in Toyota Surpas,and those 1 ton camper/box trucks so they are pretty robust

I have some runs coming up and don't want to put the Rubizuk down right now, so I have some time to tinker with other things. Will probably attack the completion after the first of the year.

I am however interested in the marrying transfer case to the transmission. Do you have more on this?

Larry

I went to the local Volvo dealer and got 2 more spacers, gaskets and some longer screws and decided to modify the pan.


Beautiful. Will be doing the same to mine. KUDOS to you.

BTW, you got a part # for that Vulva spacer?

I have some runs coming up and don't want to put the Rubizuk down right now, so I have some time to tinker with other things. Will probably attack the completion after the first of the year.

I am however interested in the marrying transfer case to the transmission. Do you have more on this?

Larry

depends how you want to do it. You could build an adapter to mount the sami case directly to the volvo transmission. I was going to build one in my spare time, but unfortunatly I dont have any. I was going to base it of Rockrats adapter (Kicker3) but adapt it to the volvo trans instead of the sidekick case, should be pretty easy.
Another option is to make a Kicker3 to the volvo trans. On the sidekick4-speed, there is an adapter about 2" thick in between the transmission and T-case. This adapter will bolt to the Volvo transmission, then of course the Kicker3 will bolt to that. Its as easy as that. The only problem is that the splines dont match. The Volvo output needs to be shortened and resplined to fit, thats not a big deal if you know someone who can do that and you would would need to tear down the transmission to get it out. That may or may not be worth the effort, depending how much work you want to put into it. I think it is worth having a married T-case in the long run

Beautiful. Will be doing the same to mine. KUDOS to you.

BTW, you got a part # for that Vulva spacer?

Volvo part #SO 1340136, List price was $56.45 each, wholesale $45.16 each

depends how you want to do it. You could build an adapter to mount the sami case directly to the volvo transmission. I was going to build one in my spare time, but unfortunatly I dont have any. I was going to base it of Rockrats adapter (Kicker3) but adapt it to the volvo trans instead of the sidekick case, should be pretty easy.
Another option is to make a Kicker3 to the volvo trans. On the sidekick4-speed, there is an adapter about 2" thick in between the transmission and T-case. This adapter will bolt to the Volvo transmission, then of course the Kicker3 will bolt to that. Its as easy as that. The only problem is that the splines dont match. The Volvo output needs to be shortened and resplined to fit, thats not a big deal if you know someone who can do that and you would would need to tear down the transmission to get it out. That may or may not be worth the effort, depending how much work you want to put into it. I think it is worth having a married T-case in the long run

I've been doing some research and frankly confused. Every artical and photo found show the exterior housings, but no mention of how these shafts mate.:confused:

I am also considering going to a toyota transfer case as it appears they are both 23 spline, but again how are they mated?:confused:

Inside the adapter is pretty strait forward, I have some pics of the outside but none of the coupler. I cut the threaded part of the volvo output shaft off, it held the flange on and is only about an inch long. I used the coupler from a toyota R151, I think Marlin sells them, and it slid onto both the Volvo and T-case splines. To seal the transmission fluid from the T-case, I installed a seal into the Volvo tail housing where the stock seal was with an inside diameter that seals on the toyota coupler, I have the part number somewhere. Not all Volvo autos are 23 spline, I think they started in '93 or '94 but it may have been sooner. Another advantage of the later Volvo auto is a roller bearing instead of a bushing, it supports the output shaft better and is lubricated by trans fluid. Here are some pics of when I built my adapter, its not much but you should get the idea.

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=dlattach;topic=60994.0;attach=60422 ;image
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=dlattach;topic=60994.0;attach=60426 ;image
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=dlattach;topic=60994.0;attach=60428 ;image
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=dlattach;topic=60994.0;attach=60430 ;image

Samiguy

Thanks, you have been a great help. Now I will have to decide whether or not to keep the Sami tcase or switch to a toyota.

One advantage of the toyota is the high range is still 1-1, one advantage of the sami is the lower gears 6.5-1 and I do like the lower gears.

I decided to build the drive shaft, and move the transfer case back 2".
Before when i also used that Volvo-JUNK, i used at CV from a FWD car and welded it to original drive shaft...
http://www.offroad.se/suzybild/melkardan3.jpg

I know where you are coming from with the gearing thing. I am not sure what your experence with an automatic for wheeling is, but I dont find it is as important as it is with a manual. Right now I have the 3-speed auto in my sami with the Kicker3 and I only have 4.16 gears in the sami case. The 4.16 gears work good for 98% of my wheeling (I wouldnt claim that if I had the 5-speed) thanks to the automatic. When I engage the Kicker3 my ratio goes to 8:1, its nice on the other 2% but I would be fine without it. Most (if not all) of my 8:1 is just messing around with it since its there.
If I was to DD my sami I would go with the toyota case and the 4-speed, since I would lose the high range reduction of the sami case, I could swap out the 4.10's in toyota axles and run 5.29's.
I think I would rather have the strength and reliability of the 4.7 toyota T-case over the extra gear reduction of the 6.5 sami T-case.

What about the front driveshaft clearance with the sammy case ?
I'm doing a swap with a 2.0 Opel (GM) engine with a Aisin AR25 auto into a LWB narrow track right now and just found out that the front driveshaft hits the tranny oil pan at full bump. I still have to open the tranny oil pan to see if I can redesign the one edge where it hits. We're talking about 1/2" that's needed.
I used a two-piece drive shaft on my car. Same engine and trany....
http://www.offroad.se/tech/dam0809007.jpg

Before when i also used that Volvo-JUNK, i used at CV from a FWD car and welded it to original drive shaft...
http://www.offroad.se/suzybild/melkardan3.jpg

From the research I have done, the Volvo owner's rave about this transmission, why are you negative about it?

I know where you are coming from with the gearing thing. I am not sure what your experence with an automatic for wheeling is, but I dont find it is as important as it is with a manual. Right now I have the 3-speed auto in my sami with the Kicker3 and I only have 4.16 gears in the sami case. The 4.16 gears work good for 98% of my wheeling (I wouldnt claim that if I had the 5-speed) thanks to the automatic. When I engage the Kicker3 my ratio goes to 8:1, its nice on the other 2% but I would be fine without it. Most (if not all) of my 8:1 is just messing around with it since its there.
If I was to DD my sami I would go with the toyota case and the 4-speed, since I would lose the high range reduction of the sami case, I could swap out the 4.10's in toyota axles and run 5.29's.
I think I would rather have the strength and reliability of the 4.7 toyota T-case over the extra gear reduction of the 6.5 sami T-case.

I also have the 3 speed auto and have had it for over 2 years. Only complaint, freeway speeds.

When I was running 36" Irock's, 4:10 axle gears and 6.5:1 transfer case gears there was one hill that I had difficulty with and BEARLY made it. Naturally it was not a good spot to have not made it. Now that I have 37" Krawlers and 5:29 axle gears, I get no rejections from lack of power.

I have another TCase with the GRSII gears, 4.89:1, I may try this case on my next outing and see what happens. You can probable guess, off road is my primary concern, freeway speeds would be nice, but not if I have to take too much away from off roading.

I also have the 3 speed auto and have had it for over 2 years. Only complaint, freeway speeds.

When I was running 36" Irock's, 4:10 axle gears and 6.5:1 transfer case gears there was one hill that I had difficulty with and BEARLY made it. Naturally it was not a good spot to have not made it. Now that I have 37" Krawlers and 5:29 axle gears, I get no rejections from lack of power.

I have another TCase with the GRSII gears, 4.89:1, I may try this case on my next outing and see what happens. You can probable guess, off road is my primary concern, freeway speeds would be nice, but not if I have to take too much away from off roading.

Oh, OK. If you already have 5.29 and are happy with the highway speeds switching in the toyota T-case high range will effect that, especally with an overdrive. Have you done the math to see what your RPM's are compared to what they would be?
The only complaints I've heard about the transmission are from the volvo guys that tune the engines and drag race them and the valve body and accumulator mods seem to help their reliability problems

Oh, OK. If you already have 5.29 and are happy with the highway speeds switching in the toyota T-case high range will effect that, especally with an overdrive. Have you done the math to see what your RPM's are compared to what they would be?
The only complaints I've heard about the transmission are from the volvo guys that tune the engines and drag race them and the valve body and accumulator mods seem to help their reliability problems

I've never done math for this and don't know where to start. I'm not even sure what RPM's a 16v should be running at 60mph. Currently I am running about 5200 RPM at 60mph and I know thats too much for me to run very far. My goal is to be able to run to the local mountains, 70 miles one way, and back and not harm the engine.

Well I have been busy and haven't posted for a while. I as mentioned before, besides the transmission conversion, I am also doing a frame up and stretch.

I have added 12" to the mid section of the frame, 5" above the rear axle and 5 1/2" above the front axle. Current wheel base is 101 1/2".

I have now installed the engine, trans, modified the transfer case mount, installed the transfer case, exhaust, radiator, fuel and brake lines. The dipstick tube cleared nicely so I was able to leave it on the drivers side.

I thought you might also be interested in my rack & pinion install. I doubt you can do this without moving the front axle forward at least 5", there is just not enough room for the steering linkage.

I bought a rack & pinion out of a 1989 Ford Explorer (2dr), cut the tie rod ends off, welded on threaded ends which mated to toyota tie rod ends. I then centered the steering gear so it had equal travel both directions, the mounted it to the axle assembly. This is powered by a sidekick ps pump.

I have been running this setup to 2 years and love it. Later I will post the steering colomn linkage.

I've started on the body. I cut both the front (a spare tub) and rear sections and put them on the frame.
421897

421898

421899

421900

421901

Here is a photo of where I cut the floor too short, widened the transmission tunnell, fit the doors and started welding panels.

That is going to look really neat when its done. Good luck with it, and keep up the good work!

Hey Larry, are you modifying the body you already stretched or did you start over with a couple of new tubs? The other one was sweet! It would be a shame to cut that one up.

Hey Larry, are you modifying the body you already stretched or did you start over with a couple of new tubs? The other one was sweet! It would be a shame to cut that one up.

Vince
I had some issues with the floor under the front seats on the red tub (spliting, welded and spliting again). By changing the front half of the tub with it's floor going all the way back to the bed area I feel it will be stronger and should last longer.

I am still using the stretched portion of the rear panels and off course the stretched portion of the fenders and hood. Just a new floor and cowl basically.

Made some more progress, today I worked on mounting the shifter.

Had to modify the tunnel and I still have some welding to do the the passenger side. On the drivers side I want to have the side panel removable. It will almost impossible to get the the shift linkage if the side panel don't come off.
423659

423660

Tomorrow I will also cut the out the transfer case opening, turn it around putting it back 2" to match the transfer move.

423661

Tomorrow I will also cut the out the transfer case opening, turn it around putting it back 2" to match the transfer move.

423661

now that's good thinking! :bounce2:

Made some more progress. Today I finished the steering linkage and thought I take some photos before I hung the front fender.
426982

426983

426984

426985

does it have a slip yoke? and wont the linkage bind at stuff ?

does it have a slip yoke? and wont the linkage bind at stuff ?

It has 2 slip yokes, 1 at the rack (5" slider) and 1 (2" slider) at the fire wall. I have been running a similiar set up for 2 years, (only having 1 idler bearing) and no binding so far. You have to remember I have moved the axle 6" forward from stock.

Ok, just curious cause the joint under the frame looks like it has a lot of angle

I finally got the body work done and was able to test drive it. 60 mph @ 3550rpm in overdrive. This is lower that what I had expected. Once at 60 mph, not much power left and will only be able to use the overdrive on flat ground. With the overdrive off, I am back to 60 mph @ 5200 rpm.

FYI: 1600 16V, toyota axles 5.29 gears, GRSII & 37" Crawlers.

Here it the unit loaded on the trailer and headed to the paint shop.
437238

437239

Nice work.
What is the actual diameter of those tires? .....and trans OD ratio again?

Nice work.
What is the actual diameter of those tires? .....and trans OD ratio again?


(1) 2.45:1 (2) 1.45:1 (3) 1.00:1 (4) 0.69:1 and the tires measure close to 37"

very cool build up. how does the short drive shaft do? any vibrations? i'm with you...i think i would be looking for a long term married solution. i know this is pricey, but inchworm builds these adapters to yota gear boxes:

http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=995

looks like some guys on this thread have posted up building similar units to their 3kicker setups. if it were me, i think i'd be going toward the yota xcases.

on another note, i must have missed it...how did you wire up your control for the overdrive? does your shifter have a switch? also, i wasn't too clear on what you did for the neutral safety and back up lights (just couldn't quite follow what was posted about that earlier).

again, nice thread and the stretch looks great.

very cool build up. how does the short drive shaft do? any vibrations? i'm with you...i think i would be looking for a long term married solution. i know this is pricey, but inchworm builds these adapters to yota gear boxes:

http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=995

looks like some guys on this thread have posted up building similar units to their 3kicker setups. if it were me, i think i'd be going toward the yota xcases.

on another note, i must have missed it...how did you wire up your control for the overdrive? does your shifter have a switch? also, i wasn't too clear on what you did for the neutral safety and back up lights (just couldn't quite follow what was posted about that earlier).

again, nice thread and the stretch looks great.

No vibrations :D, as for yoto tcase, I looked into them, my complaint is there is no reduction in the high gears, suzuki offer 11 or 12% reduction.

As for the overdrive, I have it wired to a postive switch on the dash. If I were more electric enclined, I probably could have used a button on the shift leaver. The neutral switch I found the lead on the shifter and wired it into the loome. Remember I had a auto in this before and a freind wired it for me, so I just tapped into his lead. I don't use back up lights so I didn't take any time to figure the out.

very cool build up. how does the short drive shaft do? any vibrations? i'm with you...i think i would be looking for a long term married solution. i know this is pricey, but inchworm builds these adapters to yota gear boxes:

http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=995

looks like some guys on this thread have posted up building similar units to their 3kicker setups. if it were me, i think i'd be going toward the yota xcases.

on another note, i must have missed it...how did you wire up your control for the overdrive? does your shifter have a switch? also, i wasn't too clear on what you did for the neutral safety and back up lights (just couldn't quite follow what was posted about that earlier).

again, nice thread and the stretch looks great.

I built my own adapter like the inchworm one, its 1" shorter then the stock drivetrain. If you get the right volvo transmission its 23 spline and matches the toyota T-case.
The Kicker3 can be adapted to the Volvo transmission but requires the output shaft to be resplined.
If the 16v is not enough HP, you can also install the volvo transmission behind a Vitara 2.0 or Toyota 22R.
There is no control for the OD except a switched 12v power source.

after reading through the entire thread, the 23 spline tranny seems like the way to go.

what advantage is there in reducing the high range if you are wanting this to be a dual purpose vehicle. seems like you would want the high range to be stock (along with an overdrive like this tranny offers) and then have as much selectability for off-road as you can get...like dual tranny's. with the 2.28 reduction of the yota box you would have four usable forward gears that seem like they would cover everything the 11 or 12% sammy box would cover before needing to go to low range with it anyway...just thinking out loud here. i guess i would need to put a chart together of gear ratios in order to validate or invalidate that last statement. it might be worth doing...

after reading through the entire thread, the 23 spline tranny seems like the way to go.

what advantage is there in reducing the high range if you are wanting this to be a dual purpose vehicle. seems like you would want the high range to be stock (along with an overdrive like this tranny offers) and then have as much selectability for off-road as you can get...like dual tranny's. with the 2.28 reduction of the yota box you would have four usable forward gears that seem like they would cover everything the 11 or 12% sammy box would cover before needing to go to low range with it anyway...just thinking out loud here. i guess i would need to put a chart together of gear ratios in order to validate or invalidate that last statement. it might be worth doing...

I guess I didn't look close enough at the toyota box, I was under the impression it was 1:1 in high range.

I guess I didn't look close enough at the toyota box, I was under the impression it was 1:1 in high range.

It is. 1:1 high range, 2.28:1 low range. Suzuki tcase is the only way you are going to get a high range reduction.

I guess I didn't look close enough at the toyota box, I was under the impression it was 1:1 in high range.

yeah, sorry...i wasn't exactly clear in my last post...to clarify: what is the point of high range reduction? no need for lower diff gears? if that's all, then i think i'd rather the reliability of the yota stuff with lower diff gears.

yeah, sorry...i wasn't exactly clear in my last post...to clarify: what is the point of high range reduction? no need for lower diff gears? if that's all, then i think i'd rather the reliability of the yota stuff with lower diff gears.

If you have the horse power to pull 1:1 at highway speeds, great, but most of us have smaller engines and by the time we get the gears low enough for off road, we can't use high gear on the road if it is 1:1. By being able to lower the high range, we can get closer to having a rig that can have great off road gears and still do some freeway.

I now have it for the most part together and took it out to Cougar Buttes last weekend. The transmission works great, on and off road. 60mph = 3600 rpm. Here are a few photos of the nearly finished project and some photo opp's on the trail.
444917

444918

444919

444920

Beautiful work as always Larry. Hope you found an e-locker motor.

How did the rack work out? I have thought about something similar many times.

How did the rack work out? I have thought about something similar many times.

I had to rotate the carriers clockwise a little, but works great. Just to make sure I have no problems, I also plan to push the lower part of the bracket towards the center about an 1/2", then it should never get into a bind.

Like I said earlier, I have been running this rack & Pinion for 2 years. It is out of an 89 Explorer, 6 cyclinder model. The V8 models are too wide and won't work. I am also using a sidekick pump and it seems to handle it just fine.

The major benifit is I have full steering no matter what the articulation is.

Hope this helps

Any updates? Anymore info on swap?

Does there happen to be a viscous coupled transfer case that bolts to this transmission? Spent some time searching online last night and am surprised I did not see anything.

can you post up a pic-n-pull list of parts used for your auto swap, tranny part #, shifter, torque converter, etc.

With the 3 speed auto I am running now, it wants to run out of fluid on steep climbs unless I over fill it, then I have to deal with the over filling issues. I think this should give me more fluid without having to overfill.

I've got the same problem in my BW55 transmission!

Did it work? :) That would have been a very cheep and easy fix!

I don't mean to highjack this thread but it got me to thinking... :eek:

Is there another manual gearbox that can be swapped into a Tracker/Sidekick? Something like maybe the MUCH stronger Volvo M90?

And speaking of... does anyone have the mfg/model info for the 95 Sidekick/Tracker 5-speed manual? :confused:

I've finished my build with the AW-72L tranny and it works great! :D:D:D:D

I've finished my build with the AW-72L tranny and it works great! :D:D:D:D

Sweet. Were you able to use the tracker converter?

I didn't try with this one. Maybe the next one though?

I didn't try with this one. Maybe the next one though?

I'm 99% sure the tracker 4-speed converter will work. You made the Volvo converter work then?

Trackick 4sp converter is the proper one to use and it works great. The volvo converter is a tad too big in diameter. If I remember right the trackick converter is a Precision part # P6255.

A little off topic question here..
Is your warn powerplant winch blocking your radiator enough to cause overheating?
I was concerned when I was looking at one that it was just so big that it may cause problems. How do you like it?

samiguy , sorry I misread your post. Yes I did use the trackick converter for my build.

Made some more progress. Today I finished the steering linkage and thought I take some photos before I hung the front fender.
426982

426983

426984

426985


ummmmmmm........I like your very complicated bumpstop system..........:eek:



Its a shame to see all that effort.........combined with 30 second fabrication execution.