I have an 8" ram and I need it to be 4.5 inches. Can I just cut 3.5 inches off the end of the shaft and have it rethreaded at a machine shop and call it a day?

(ToyFamily, you were SOOOO right, guy that sold it to me had me convinced I needed to have 8" ram for 4 inches one way and 4 the other....AHHHHHH WRONG!)

Thanks!

I used a 3/4" spacer on the shaft and we had some shorter ram housings around (from experimentation on other rigs) and then cut the shaft at the weld (the outside cevis) and rewelded it...

Originally posted by ToyFamily
I used a 3/4" spacer on the shaft and we had some shorter ram housings around (from experimentation on other rigs) and then cut the shaft at the weld (the outside cevis) and rewelded it...

Is there a reason you did all that other than to end up with a smaller housing? Underlying question is, there is nothing wrong with just cutting off and rethreading the ram end is there?

I can just cut it off and have a machinist rethread it monday I hope.

Or what about evewn easier, putting a 3.5 inch spacer (read: tubing) on the shaft of the ram, that would do the same thig wouldnt it?

Thanks a milliohn. Im working on this as we speak.

I just use a piece of roll cage scrap, and tacked it to the clevis. works great

Originally posted by TyTy
(ToyFamily, you were SOOOO right, guy that sold it to me had me convinced I needed to have 8" ram for 4 inches one way and 4 the other....AHHHHHH WRONG!)

Thanks!

It's late, but help me out here...4" one way and 4" the other would equal 8" total through right? I would aSSuME that there would be 4" of shaft showing with your wheels straight...4 more inches to full lock, then 8" back to full lock...What am I missing?

--D

Originally posted by RockRover


It's late, but help me out here...4" one way and 4" the other would equal 8" total through right? I would aSSuME that there would be 4" of shaft showing with your wheels straight...4 more inches to full lock, then 8" back to full lock...What am I missing?

--D

I am with you on this one, I can't imagine having 4.5" movement lock to lock on the front end. Seems real short, haven't measured mine (I will tomorrow, as I am interested in doing hydro assist) so who knows maybe I am way off base.

Originally posted by RockRover


It's late, but help me out here...4" one way and 4" the other would equal 8" total through right? I would aSSuME that there would be 4" of shaft showing with your wheels straight...4 more inches to full lock, then 8" back to full lock...What am I missing?

--D

Naw, see I measured 4.5 inches of travel in EACH knuckle. I told this to the guy I bought it from and he said I needed an 8 inch ram. Not true. Once connected wiht a tie rod the 4.5 inches of travel in each knuckle becomes 4.5 together, total, etc... It was a miscomunication between me and the guy.

You cant beat the price I got though, $278 shipped, that includes a Char Lyne spool valve, Lion ram 2500 (2.5 in.) and two 1 inch drilled mounting blocks. Hofelton Offroad in TN.

Anyway, I have the spool valve mounted and bracketry made to mount to the axle. That shiat will be on tommorrow. Unfortunatly I have no lines, cant turn :(

Thanks for the help boys. Im gonna try the internal sleeve cause I am already hard up for space on my little toy axle.

Thanks

PS Not till morning though so if ya got any suggestions keep um comin!

When you say rethread are you meaning the ram housing itself? Because I think that would be a fine idea to just cut the housing and rethread it for the cap and then cut the rod to length....The reason we used a spacer and cut the ram is because if you remember form the build up we were PRESSED for time and did the ram the last two days and so the housing we found was not the right length but close...time permitting we would have made a new ram housing to the right length....

And I know it sounds short for there to be only 2.25" either way but if you think about it that is from center so each knuckle is moving the 4.5" and with the short arms they make for toyotas it comes out right....I started with an 8" ram and shortended to fit....

BTW, to attack your ram all you gotta do is turn full lock one way and install the ram all the way in or all the way out (however it coordinates with the direction your ram pushes).

Once you install the ram, if done right you should be ble to turn your steering stops all the way in and your ram will function as steering stops.

Thanks, Keep the advice comin!!!

Originally posted by ToyFamily
When you say rethread are you meaning the ram housing itself? Because I think that would be a fine idea to just cut the housing and rethread it for the cap and then cut the rod to length....The reason we used a spacer and cut the ram is because if you remember form the build up we were PRESSED for time and did the ram the last two days and so the housing we found was not the right length but close...time permitting we would have made a new ram housing to the right length....

And I know it sounds short for there to be only 2.25" either way but if you think about it that is from center so each knuckle is moving the 4.5" and with the short arms they make for toyotas it comes out right....I started with an 8" ram and shortended to fit....

Thats exactly what I was talkin about but I dont think Im gonna do this anymore. Reason being is that eventually I plan to go with a D60 front and if I did, my 8 inch ram is what I would need. So, I think Im just gonna make an internal bumpstop/ spacer tommorrow and see how that goes. If I cut it and rethread it I will lose that ability.

One thing I am worried about is how many urns lock to lock I am gonna be at. The guy told me 4 or so one way and 3.5 or so the other. I think shortening the ram with bumpstops will almost cut it in half. Oh well. Well see how it turns out.

TyTy thanks for the reply. 4.5" just seems short. My F9 with 44 knuckles will probably be closer to 8". This is good info.

What kind of steering arms are you using?
4.5" lock to lock travel is waay short man. If your steering arms really do only tavel 4.5" than you need to try something else out then (I will get to this in a bit). Is it possible to mount your tie rod out farther on the steering arms? That would fix the travel problem. The reason that I say this is because your Chralynn valve is hopefully matched to your 8" travel ram to give you a decent control from the steering wheel. If you shorten the throw of your cylinder it might make your steering wheel only take 2 turns to go lock to lock. That would be extremely quick. If you ever plan to go more than a few miles an hour, it will likely cause control problems.

If you do end up shortening the throw on your cylinder, the best way to do it is by shimming on the inside of the cylinder. Any hydraulic shop can do this for you for orund $40. Or if you want to do it youself, you can buy just the shims from a hydraulic shop. They are cheap.

But Really, I dont think you are measuring correctly. The easiest way for me to explain, so that I am sure that you measure the travel correctly is to put your tie rod on, hang a plum bob from your frame, with your wheels turned to full lock make a mark on the tie rod directly behind the string of the plum bob. Then turn all the way to lock in the other direction, and mark again behind the string of the plum bob. The length between the two marks is the thow that you need.

You MUST just be measuring the travel in one direction, instead of both.

Sean

Oh, and I wonder what this shop sold you. Is the valve new?

It can't be, because I buy almost directly from both Charlynn and DanFoss(Only one overhead above me, untill I am able to sell thousands of valves a year) , and the price that you give is less than I would be able to buy these parts directly from the manufacturers.

If the valve is new, I would be interested to know if you can give me the part number.

Sean

Originally posted by TyTy
Just to straighten things out (and for people who pull this post in a search) the way to measure for your ram is simply measure the distance from your steering stop to where it stops at. This distance is the travel your knickles go through and thus with the tierod on, the length of ram you need. Simple as that.

Obviously if your gonna base your measurements off the steering stops you need to have your steering stops set where you want them, in the case of a toy axle, about 4.5.

BTW, to attack your ram all you gotta do is turn full lock one way and install the ram all the way in or all the way out (however it coordinates with the direction your ram pushes).

Once you install the ram, if done right you should be ble to turn your steering stops all the way in and your ram will function as steering stops.

Thanks, Keep the advice comin!!!

no no no no, you dont measure at the steering stops. your knuckle travels in a Arc. so yes it may be 4.5" at the steering stops but if you go out to where the tie rod attachs to the knuckle it could be 8". the best wat to measure for stroke is to assemble your steering system and clamp something to the tie rod. then turn the wheel all the way one way and mark on the housing then turn the wheel the whole way the other way and mark that on the housing. then measure the two marks and you have your travel.

Alright boys...I just measured with the plumb bob from the frame down to the tierod and made a mark at ful lock each way. That measurement is 5 inches. So, I guess that means I need to take 3 out of my ram seeing as how it is 8.

BTW, I am using Kongs arms. The Char Lynn Valve is used, he gets them off combines. The ram is new. I dont plan on going fast really so Im not all that worried about that (trailered rig). I guess Im gonna put a spacer in my ram and see how it turns out.

BTW, Im gonna delete my post on measuring knuckles...

But Really, I dont think you are measuring correctly. The easiest way for me to explain, so that I am sure that you measure the travel correctly is to put your tie rod on, hang a plum bob from your frame, with your wheels turned to full lock make a mark on the tie rod directly behind the string of the plum bob. Then turn all the way to lock in the other direction, and mark again behind the string of the plum bob. The length between the two marks is the thow that you need.

You MUST just be measuring the travel in one direction, instead of both.

Sean [/B][/QUOTE]


I gave him my measurements from the buggy I have built (and competed in) 4.5 is it on a toy axle (depending upon where your stops are turned to)....I wish I had pics here at this computer and I'd show you...A toy arm is just in front of the knuckle, if you think of each knuckle roating 4.5" you'd see.....8" would make the knuckle perpendicular to the axle housing..... And yes a d44 needs a longer ram but they are different axles (and the arms are most of the time longer)

One thing you were right about is how the Char-lynn is valved for the 8" ram and how the steering will quicken.... My buggy steering is very fast but at .25mph it doesn't matter, and I actually like it for slow stuff but if I ever wanted to go dune blasting I'd have to change the valving....or die.

IF the steering is too quick, you could install a HOWE or similar quick ratio box, backwards. You could prolly do a search on HOWE and get some pics and more info...just passin idea along

Originally posted by TyTy
You cant beat the price I got though, $278 shipped, that includes a Char Lyne spool valve, Lion ram 2500 (2.5 in.) and two 1 inch drilled mounting blocks. Hofelton Offroad in TN.

That would actually be Hoselton OffRoad ;)

Anyone else who wants to get in touch with them can call Alvin @ the shop (931)461-8365 :)

Originally posted by DRM


That would actually be Hoselton OffRoad ;)

Anyone else who wants to get in touch with them can call Alvin @ the shop (931)461-8365 :)

Sorry about that. I just got the number from some one that got the number from...

Thanks for the correction.:D

Originally posted by TyTy


Sorry about that. I just got the number from some one that got the number from...

Thanks for the correction.:D

No problem... he stopped by the house this afternoon to pick up a tranny I was selling and was telling me his business was doing well :)