well its in and its tight, that and what a mother to get in, good thing there is a cage to lift from, because a 203-205 doubler is a chunk of iron:D

here is a pic before it was installed, its the new offroad designs gen2 doubler, just waiting for sticks to show up, and I still need to go buy some steel for crossmember.

Could be the pic, but looks like you need to make a bit more clearance in the upwards side to level the engine?

How long, or should I ask how short is your driveline going to be now?

How much was the adapter? And how hard was it to assemble?
Thanks,

Later......

its just got a strap holding it up, the t-case will go up a little. the rear driveline will be 29" and the front will 35", the kit was 930.00 that includes sticks to the front door, the kit was pretty simple to put together :D , you just use the gear section of the 203, the rest goes in garbage, the only hard part is installing new output shaft on 203:p

hey,
what tranny are you running with the doubler?
pat

Originally posted by patstanley
hey,
what tranny are you running with the doubler?
pat was running turbo 400, but was concerned about driveline lenght so I went to turbo 350, saved a couple of inches

Ouch,,,

29 in driveline..... Doesn’t leave allot of wheel travel..


Bet you wish you had a 118in. wheel base....

Later....

thats why you run a cv and long spline drive line, my wheel base is pushing 109":D

Originally posted by IH Scout II
Ouch,,,

29 in driveline..... Doesn’t leave allot of wheel travel..


Bet you wish you had a 118in. wheel base....

Later....

I donno, I got an 18" rear shaft and I can put a tire up about 43 inches or so without a problem.... with an 80" wheelbase. And uhh no stinkin CV :D

Originally posted by mike


I donno, I got an 18" rear shaft and I can put a tire up about 43 inches or so without a problem.... with an 80" wheelbase. And uhh no stinkin CV :D drive it down the fawkin road at 75mph and we'll see if you need a cv:rolleyes:

Originally posted by harkinoff
drive it down the fawkin road at 75mph and we'll see if you need a cv:rolleyes:

CV's are over rated, especially on the front. Take the time to setup the diff right and you should not have any problems.

Originally posted by harkinoff
drive it down the fawkin road at 75mph and we'll see if you need a cv:rolleyes:

I have. Many times. It was my DD for a while in AZ when I lived there too.







course my rear output shaft is as high as my front... so thats what 5" lower? ;)

Originally posted by harkinoff
drive it down the fawkin road at 75mph and we'll see if you need a cv:rolleyes:

WTF are you talking about? Since when is this ricer4x4.com? Besides, My junk does 70 (non CV) and the only issue is I my tractor motor is whining at such high RPMs, it sounds like it's gonna blow!

Originally posted by JoshC


WTF are you talking about? Since when is this ricer4x4.com? Besides, My junk does 70 (non CV) and the only issue is I my tractor motor is whining at such high RPMs, it sounds like it's gonna blow! I guess you non cv fawks like the vibration on your nuts, who the fawk knows, I like my shit smooth, thats why I run a cv, that and u-joints last longer and what the hell is ricer4x4.com go do another bong hit "winner"
:flipoff2:

Cool, I'll go do that, keep running my stronger single cardans and keep towing my junk and riding in my ultra comfy 1 ton dodge while I do it ;)

Originally posted by mike
Cool, I'll go do that, keep running my stronger single cardans and keep towing my junk and riding in my ultra comfy 1 ton dodge while I do it ;) so your telling me you trailer your rig to every trail you do, mine is trailered on big trips, but I like to drive mine once in a while, like local trails, I guess its up to how much money do what to spend, that and if you like your t-case being a rock magnet, never broke a cv yet so it must not be to weak, along with all my buddies:D

Originally posted by jdjanda


CV's are over rated, especially on the front. Take the time to setup the diff right and you should not have any problems. why would you run one on the front, what is it a full time 4x4:confused:

Unless you got magic yokes, the U-Joint will only work to a DEGREE, before binding. The more drive line angle you have, the more (faster) the U-Joint wears... Even CVs can only go so far before they are MAXED...

Now, On the other hand if the center section never moves out of a given point, then you have prolonged the inevitable... Limiter straps...

I have seen a pile of broken yokes, joints, straps, and bent output shafts. The owners all said this is the shit, then BANG>>>> Call a tow truck.

So the more severe the angle, the faster the wear, or breakage..

Later,,,,

[QUOTE]Originally posted by IH Scout II
[B]Unless you got magic yokes, the U-Joint will only work to a DEGREE, before binding. The more drive line angle you have, the more (faster) the U-Joint wears... Even CVs can only go so far before they are MAXED...

Now, On the other hand if the center section never moves out of a given point, then you have prolonged the inevitable... Limiter straps...

I have seen a pile of broken yokes, joints, straps, and bent output shafts. The owners all said this is the shit, then BANG>>>> Call a tow truck.

So the more severe the angle, the faster the wear, or breakage..

nicely said IH SCOUT II, maybe thats why I've ran the same u-joints for a year now and still no notice of wear, besides some rock rash on shafts:flipoff2:

I run an SOA with a 40" rear 'shaft with standard U-joints..

It vibrates at 70.. dunno if it's the rear 'shaft complaining, or the Swampers. :D

I did watch my t'case handle bouncing around side to side on my recent drive back from our trail ride (30 miles, the most pavement the TSLs have seen in one shot..)

I don't remember it vibrating so badly a year ago with the 33s, when I was towing with it at 75mph (same suspension).. 3000-3300rpm is just right.
I *do* tend to eat transmission mounts to the tune of one every year or so though. :D

In order to maintain the LACK of VVVIbrattttionnnn,,, the U-Joints must be PHASED.....

I could write a ton of info from many different manufactures; I find if you can keep the joints within 2degrees of each other, you can have a tolerable ride. Remember, when you push down on the go pedal, you change the degree also over time when your springs get sprung your angles change too.

If you are confused about phasing, look in any of the good work manuals....


Later.....