and it's in MYYYY driveway...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3110/2888037361_2d550400c3.jpg

i guess nobody even thought about the shackle actually moving!
i'll worry about it after the tranny swap this week.

anyway.
got her started yesterday. need header modified to clear #1 plug.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2236/2888037357_d93e4221d0.jpg


got the bracket for the hydroboost assy. prepped and painted, and the assy prepped...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3051/2888037359_b05714901e.jpg

any tips for removing auto tranny? i've only done tranny swaps on imports.. which makes me think this one will be a BREEEEZE. :D

Use a good transmission jack, you will thank yourself in ten years.

if u have done tranny swaps on imports u should be able to do this blind folded... remeber 3 torque converter bolts 6 bellhouseing bolts two driveshafts and a tranny cross memeber and linkage and maybe either a shifter or tranny cooler lines...

Suspension scary? Why yes, yes it is.

Next question: Is that yours?

Next question: If so, why is it like that?

Next question: Why is it still like that?

Next question: never mind...

if u have done tranny swaps on imports u should be able to do this blind folded... remeber 3 torque converter bolts 6 bellhouseing bolts two driveshafts and a tranny cross memeber and linkage and maybe either a shifter or tranny cooler lines...

last bit of advice:

dont be under it when you take out the last bolt if you dont have a tranny jack.

What's the issue?
You have a set of overloads(aftermarket mind you) on the front.
You have a big 6 or 7 leaf pack and a healthy motor. It looks like this will work together, won't flex well, but no wrap.......

What's wrong again?

x2, its a anti wrap, wtf is the problem?

its not hold the truck up.

x2, its a anti wrap, wtf is the problem?

its not hold the truck up.

the problem?? hahahahaha are you telling me there is worse? well, this is as bad as mine'll ever be.
52"s hung up front soon.

the shackle has like 1" MAX before it hits the stupid bolted on step bar.


the traction wrap block/leaf thing is not what i was refering to as worst.
i might even throw some gear paint (pattern maker on R&P) on that wrap blocks retaining pins and play with the front susp before i tear it out. might be neat to see the deflection in the current spring setup... worst case scenario, i have to put in the HP60 sooner.

one of the best tips i've got so far for tranny swap:
use engine crane in cab thru hump hole. we'll see if i can rest the engine on the fenders (sling straps/chains) and go that route.

FWIW, can i bolt load leveler to intake mani holes in heads? i have longer bolts with same dimension, but thought twice about the load being placed on the threads.

you can. just get goood thread engagement, and long enough bolts to go through the tabs on the load leveler

you can. just get goood thread engagement, and long enough bolts to go through the tabs on the load leveler

thaaaank you
and if my bolts (3" long grade 8 carriage bolts) are long enough to thread in THRU intake mani, can I. (so, leaving IM on)

or will this put a bit too much sideways stress on my aluminum manifold bolt holes? don't really feel like cracking/stretching bolt holes.

you can.

not an issue.

In the past I have broken a distributor cap when the tranny tilted down. it might be a good idea to at least remove the cap from the distributor.

In the past I have broken a distributor cap when the tranny tilted down. it might be a good idea to at least remove the cap from the distributor.

x2 although I vote that you should mark it and take the whole damn thing out. It's not that the cap, rotor, module, and pickup are terribly expensive...it's that it'll piss you off when you have to replace them...and chances are you're going to pull the dizzy to do all that anyway so you aren't saving any time by not pulling it.

MSD pro-billet dizzy. aint cheap. will remove

funny that nobody thought to slide a 2x4 under the oilpan and on top of the leaf springs to support the engine...

Not a scary suspension. It is a suspension that is designed for a different enviroment than rockcrawling. Most likely good for mud and sand. I forget what those are called off the top of my head...:confused:

its called a "traction lift". not safe for the front axle.

but, thats my opinion, and I dont live in big gay truck land.

how often do you see any 4wd doing smoky burnouts in 4wd on pavement?

Im betting, not often, so why would you need a traction lift, one that limits suspension travel?

Being a mud guy, I believe in wheel travel, because the more wheels you have in contact with the ground, the faster your truck will go. Big, stiff, highly arched springs and articulation limiting traction lifts will prohibit articulation and limit contact. If a tire isnt on the ground, it isnt pulling.

again, thats my opinion. I have been known to be wrong.

Not a scary suspension. It is a suspension that is designed for a different enviroment than rockcrawling. Most likely good for mud and sand. I forget what those are called off the top of my head...:confused:


seriously... this current suspension is good for the pavement. period.


this truck lived as some sort of monster/show truck in the past in/around Harristown PA. The PO told me it had HUGE 44" tires on it when he got it, but he reduced the lift and put the 35"s on it.


I have a 4" drop hanger for the front 52s, and I'm thinking of hanging my shackles from under the frame rail, if my clearances aren't too fawked. Maybe that will also correct some of the negative camber (sp?).

and I'm actually thinking about installing the traction lift (?) on my rears if I need to find a little height for the time being. I have Zero rates and add-a-leafs, so this is a big maybe.

If a tire isnt on the ground, it isnt pulling.



That and if your tires arn't on the ground you have to let off to steer, A soft front suspension with lots of droop also loads the rear tires slower/softer and helps make traction progressivly better on the launch so that you can tune your tire slip and how your suspension "hits" your rear tires (or so the street drag guys say... probubly not an issue in the mud).

ROB

[QUOTE=Grumpy_old_fart;8779877]

how often do you see any 4wd doing smoky burnouts in 4wd on pavement?


[QUOTE]


this is the predestined test of the front suspension. maybe I should record this, so you can all say you've seen it at least once. I can't wait to actually test this setup, believe it or not :flipoff2:

does it still count as "in 4wd" if i take the rear driveshaft out?

That and if your tires arn't on the ground you have to let off to steer, A soft front suspension with lots of droop also loads the rear tires slower/softer and helps make traction progressivly better on the launch so that you can tune your tire slip and how your suspension "hits" your rear tires (or so the street drag guys say... probubly not an issue in the mud).

ROB

it is an issue in the mud, as most trucks have a huge amount of weight on the front end. I went to air shocks just to aid in weight transfer, as they let the front end lift 4-5 inches on takeoff. Makes for some impressive launching. I have yet to pull the tires off the ground, but, well... you know... the truck doesnt have the most powerful engine in it... I have 2 horsepower, and one is sick...

As for smokey fwd burnouts, invest in ring and pinions, steering joints, and front driveshafts... soon. And yes, get it on tape!

Looks like a cal-trac.