This is a warning to those that wheel their TJs hard. The front lower control arm mounts are really weak. Mine is not the only TJ I've seen have this problem either.

It's a lot cheaper to prevent it than fix it!!

The pictures you see are of the front axle passenger side control arm mount.

http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/1.jpg
http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/2.jpg
http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/3.jpg
http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/4.jpg
http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/5.jpg

[ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: TornadoTJ ]

Here are some of the repair pictures. Next up, how to make this all stronger. Unfortunately, I won't have those pictures until we complete the work!

http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/r1.jpg
http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/r2.jpg
http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/r3.jpg
http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/r4.jpg
http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/r5.jpg

Compare to before:

http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/6.jpg

<IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Sure did skimp on the steel there didn't they. They should have used some 3/16" - 1/4" stock, the cheap bastards!

[ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: notcrazyjustnutz ]

hehe... TJ owners that wheel HARD on the rocks don't have a stock D30. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Add a plate across the front.

Paul

The D30 has held up except for u-joints. I am aware of the shortcomings.

I know how to fix it, and as mentioned I'll post those pics when the work is done! It's pretty simple stuff.

Paul, they don't use 44's either <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> hahahaha But seriously, for having a 44 in there you get it HARD!!!!!
You gotta see the Flatty now. all the tube work is done finally. Lokoing BAD ASS

Dimitri

haha ha that shit dont happen on a Yj! just joking looks like you fixed that shit. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

when you put a new axle in her, just make your own like i did....... no bends <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Jeepmangled87:
<STRONG>haha ha that shit dont happen on a Yj! just joking looks like you fixed that shit. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

True, but then I've never hit a shackle in front trying to get over a rock <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Cut em off and weld on some good ones from RE, then weld a skid plate over it (which also serves to gusset it). The cam bolt system sucks anyway. Aftermarket adjustable UCAs can do the same job.

Yes, I agree with Lucy's Driver. But the cams help me for now. I'm still trying to work out some vibration issues and they let me quickly fine tune where otherwise I'd have to pull the arms loose. When all the tuning is said and done I'm going back with something completely different, or I may leave these on for now until I swap axles.

Look at the pictures of my arms, they aren't stock <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

Wait until you rip one off. Then the real fun begins!

I have been thinking about repositioning the bracketry so that it's higher on the axle than the stock brackets (basically just behind the axle tube). Of course, that would be on a new axle. Since my suspension is already pretty wacko, I figure I could do it with little problem with the arms.

Bob

Are those non-articulating arms that were on it previously? If so they probably had a lot to do with the damage.

Otherwise get a new spotter and drive over/around the rocks, not into them <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

I ripped the passenger front lower mount off the axle, the axle kicked back and buckled the passenger side upper mount. Replaced and gusseted the two lowers and the passnger side upper.

Won't happen if you get rid of the barrel bushing and go with cartridge joints at both ends of the arms.

Stuff like that makes me glad I didn't buy a new Jeep and spent the extra cash for the 1/4 inch frame. <IMG SRC="smilies/ghost.gif" border="0">

Yes, they were crappy arms, if you look in the before and after you will notice that the arms have changed and they are now RE arms with real joints. They didn't have anything to do with the damage in this case though, it's hard to tell by the pictures but it was impact that did the damage.

As far as my spotter, I was in the lead or in 2nd on most of our runs, and I didn't have a spotter. Spotters are for pussies! <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> The only time I ask for a spot is so someone can tell me which way to NOT go. If I damage my Jeep, so be it, I'll fix it better so it won't happen again! I do NOT mind banging up my Jeep, and I feel it's part of the learning process. I won't get a good feel of where my wheels are and such if I simply follow someone's spotting all the way through a trail.

thoes mounts look just like mine. Were you useing teraflex arms in the first pics. That is what i am using and want to go to the RE long arm. I do no what you mean about the mounts, mine are all fawked up. Also have a hell of a time keeping them tight.

I have been thinking about repositioning the bracketry so that it's higher on the axle than the stock brackets (basically just behind the axle tube). Of course, that would be on a new axle. Since my suspension is already pretty wacko, I figure I could do it with little problem with the arms.

Bob[/QB][/QUOTE]


I re-drilled my lower rear CA mounts (axle)exactly 1 3/16" higher than stock. It made a noticable diff in the whole rear/torque steer thing on road.
Lower arms went from 25 deg to 20 uppers sit at 16 I think the rear end likes being both arms being much closer to the same angle.
Funny thing I did a little flex test and now the rear compresses all the way before it always seemed to kind of bind during the last inch or so.
Can't do it with the front but the rear it works nice.
Btw I had some Tera lowers so I could really turn them in you can't do this with a fixed arm unless you redrill the upper mount and even then it get's kind of tight up to cus the mount is bent over a bit to accomidate an angle.
Getting ready to do the wifes she has RE stuff so I built her some new lowers using Hiems.

I saw this problem with mine, too. A couple of weeks ago, I welded some plates to all 4 lca axle mounts. I have Tera arms and have beanten on those brackets some already. I guess next up is reinforcing the rear track bar bracket at the axle end.

-Bart

Bart - hahahahahaha that's some funny sheite!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Yeah, real funny. That was an American flag. Guess our goderators didn't like it.

-Bart

Big deal!

Badassjeepguy and Mikman, and I have all torn ours off the front end already.

Just weld the fawk out of it.

And just incase you didn't know... Within 2 weeks both Badassjeepguy and I both tore off the upper control arm rear factory mount from the frame on the drivers side.

Just weld the fawk out of everything you can find that has a factory weld on it.

Do it now before it breaks. Bends are caused by limits in your flex arms. You can solve that with Teraflex arms. They flex all the way. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Skids on front of the control arms will help deflect the damage from rocks.
Won't keep the brackets from twisting though. I ended up welding 1" x 1/4" stock between the top of the bracket and the coil pad. no mo bracket twist.



(this new bbs sux ass)

Originally posted by BellyUp
And just incase you didn't know... Within 2 weeks both Badassjeepguy and I both tore off the upper control arm rear factory mount from the frame on the drivers side.


Yeah, the driver's upper rear frame bracket is a weak spot on the TJ and the ZJ; I've ripped the one of my ZJ (at Buck Island), and Kodak has ripped his off both the frame and the axle.


Do it now before it breaks. Bends are caused by limits in your flex arms. You can solve that with Teraflex arms. They flex all the way.

Nope, I was running Tera lowers when I tweaked my front axle brackets. Can happen from powering through an obticle with the rig all flexed.... tin shit's gonna give before anything else.

You think thats bad you should see the frame side mounts on our XJ.

check out wagoner machine shops mounts.....

<img src=http://www.wagonermachine.com/tjbracket-1.jpg
<img src=http://www.wagonermachine.com/tjbrackets-4.jpg>


http://www.wagonermachine.com/high_clearance_tj_control_arm_br.htm

post wagner lower controll arm bracket please!

Here is a place that sells skid plate called skid row. They sell lower and engine/tranny skid plate. I put those on when I was running 31's on my TJ he we hit the CON no breakage what so ever, but I got 38's now and undercarriage well protected from rocks. Give them a try pretty good folks.. Good luck:smokin: :smokin:

i've welded on a piece of 1/4" semi circular tube on there, and it'll help rock damage and make the mount more stiff, but 'm yet to reinforce the stock mount,
but the skid is a simple and strong solution to help prevent what you went through.

Here is what I have so far. It's not done, I still want to grind it down even with the factory and maybe do some other things, but it's a start. This IS the same side bracket that I have pictures of up above.

http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/skid.jpg

Wait a tick...

When did we start allowing TJ's offroad? They're sooo Puuurrdy!

-J

Purdy? Not MY TJ!

http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/tj4.jpg

Originally posted by TornadoTJ
Here is what I have so far. It's not done, I still want to grind it down even with the factory and maybe do some other things, but it's a start. This IS the same side bracket that I have pictures of up above.

http://www.cowtownjeeps.com/pics/arm/skid.jpg

I did the same to mine last weekend and it did not buckle like yours but I like the skids, My cam bolt is locked in place now. Maybe I should give it check and do the same thing.